New (old) pattern for a pajamas set

1 files changed, 329 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ef5454c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,329 @@
+Pajamas set
+===========
+
+.. figure:: pajamas.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+These are relatively fitting jersey pajamas (the nightwear, not the
+original Indian trousers) with a V neck and pointed details at the top
+hem and long sleeves.
+
+There are options for long and short sleeves and trousers.
+
+It is a pretty simple pattern suitable for beginners, where the main
+fiddly bit is the point of the V neck, and would be pretty fast to make
+for an experienced sewist.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Stretch fabric such as cotton jersey, from less than 1.5 m for short
+  sleeves / trousers up to 4 m for a full set (long + short tops and
+  trousers).
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* matching sewing thread;
+* ~ 20 cm, 1.5 cm wide cotton tape for each top;
+* enough elastic 2 cm wide to go around the waist for each bottom;
+* optional: scraps of fusible interfacing;
+* optional: fabric paint.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+   Waist circumference.
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
+   needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+   Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+   Vertical distance from the waist to the hip, on the side.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+   Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L05)
+   Length of the arm
+``height_waist_back`` (A.23)
+   From the waist to floor, on the back.
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+   From the waist to the hip, on the side.
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina files for the pattern,
+:download:`pajamas_top.val` and :download:`pajamas_bottom.val`.
+
+You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
+Variables; the defaults are sensible.
+
+For both patterns:
+
+``sewing_allowance``
+   e.g. 2 cm to allow for flat felled and / or french seams.
+
+For the pajamas top:
+
+``finished_length_side``
+   finished length, without the point;
+``bottom_point_length``
+   length of the point at the center back and front;
+``neck_dip_front``
+   distance from the base of the neck to the neckhole, in front;
+``sleeve_length_jersey``
+   3 cm less than the regular length of the sleeve
+   (``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``)
+``short_sleeve_length``
+   to taste, somewhere in the middle of the biceps;
+``sleeve_point_length``
+   length of the point at the hem of the sleeve.
+
+For the pajamas bottom:
+
+``finished_length_long``
+   finished length of the long trousers;
+``finished_length_short``
+   finished length of the short trousers;
+``leg_hem_circ``
+   circumference of the hem of each leg;
+``back_rise``
+   how much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve: the default
+   is calculated based on the difference between waist and hips;
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+When not otherwise specified, all seams should be sewn with an elastic
+stitch: either a lightning stitch (if available) or a very narrow
+zig-zag.
+
+Top
+^^^
+
+Cut one of the front and back pieces, on the fold of fabric; cut two of
+your chosen sleeve, also on the fold. The most efficient way is probably
+to open the fabric flat, fold in just enough of each side to cut the
+front and back, and then cut the sleeves from the remaining center part.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   if you plan to decorate your pajamas with fabric paint you may want
+   to do so at this stage, on the cut pieces, when you don't have to
+   deal with the rest of the garment. Since the pattern is designed with
+   a flat block, however, it's not a big deal to wait until it's fully
+   assembled.
+
+Also cut the neckhole binding: a cross-grain strip of fabric (along the
+direction where it is most elastic), long enough to go around the
+neckhole.
+
+Optionally, if making long sleeves, cut two of the sleeve facing, on the
+fold.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   You can cut the neckhole binding and the sleeve facings in a
+   contrasting fabric.
+
+Cut two pieces of cotton tape as wide as the shoulder seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-shoulder_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the front over the back and align the tape so
+that it just covers the shoulder seam line and sew with a straigth
+stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press everything towards the back and topstitch with a straigth stitch
+near the other edge of the tape, enclosing all allowances.
+
+.. figure:: 0103-neck_binding.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the binding over the neck, starting from the
+center back; sew with 1 cm allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0104-neck_binding_finished.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the binding up and fold it over the allowances, enclosing them;
+herringbone stitch it by hand on the wrong side.
+
+.. note::
+
+   Alternatively you can let the binding overlap a bit over the seam on
+   the wrong side, and stitch in the ditch by machine.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: 0104a-neck_binding_v_point.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   to make a clean V point in the V neck, after the binding has been
+   sewn to the body fold it right sides together right at the point and
+   sew with a backstitch a line 1 cm long that is about 30° from the
+   fold. Then continue enclosing the allowances, taking care to arrange
+   it in such a way that it opens at the seam in the front, and the back
+   is still neat.
+
+.. figure:: 0105-sleeve_first.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, put the sleeves over the body, easing the
+difference near the top of the sleeve, sew with a 8 mm allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0106-sleeve_second.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn it so that the right sides are together, sew again with a 1 cm
+allowance to make a french seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0107-side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides facing, sew the side seams, starting from the sleeve and
+going down to the hem, with a 8 mm allowance; turn everything so that
+the right sides are facing and sew again with a 1 cm allowance to make a
+french seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0108-sleeve_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If making a long sleeve, right sides together sew the short side of the
+facing.
+
+.. figure:: 0109-sleeve_facing_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the facing on the sleeve, right sides together, and sew the end of
+the sleeve.
+
+.. figure:: 0110-sleeve_facing_topstitched.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the remaining allowance of the facing towards the wrong side, fold
+the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve in such a way that it
+peeks out on the right side, and topstitch with an elastic stitch close
+to the border and close to the fold.
+
+If making a short sleeve, fold its bottom edge twice and topstitch it
+(ideally with a twin needle).
+
+.. figure:: 0112-mitering_bottom_first_fold.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+To miter the corners in the front and back of the hem, trim about 3 cm
+from the point, perpendicularly to the vertical axis, fold the edge
+close to the corner once towards the back by 2 cm.
+
+.. figure:: 0113-mitering_bottom_corner_fold.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the point down so that it will align to the point.
+
+.. figure:: 0114-mitering_bottom_pinned.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+And fold the edges again by 2 cm, making sure that the point is neat.
+
+.. figure:: 0115-hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the rest of the bottom edge twice towards the back and topstitch it
+(again ideally with a twin needle) to hem it.
+
+Bottom
+^^^^^^
+
+Cut two of the legs, marking the position of the pocket on the right
+leg. Also cut one of the pocket.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   If the recipent is left-handed you may want to put the pocket on the
+   left leg.
+
+.. figure:: 0201-interfacing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Optionally, put scraps of fusible interfacing on the right side of the
+fabric right inside the top and bottom corners of the pocket.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-basted_pocket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the top edge of the pocket by 1 cm (half the sewing allowance)
+towards the wrong side, pin it, fold also all remaining edges by 1 cm
+(full allowance) and baste in place.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-topstitched_pocket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the top edge of the pocket a second time by 1 cm, topstitch at
+8 mm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0304-pocket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the pocket over the right leg, in the position marked on the
+pattern, topstitch in place.
+
+.. figure:: 0305-inseam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together sew the inseam with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside
+out so that they are right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance
+to make a french seam. In the next steps these allowances should go
+towards the back.
+
+.. figure:: 0306-crotch_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides together, sew the crotch seam
+with a 8 mm allowance, turn right sides together and sew with a 1 cm
+allowance to make a french seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0307-hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the hem twice, topstitch (ideally with a twin needle) to hem.
+
+.. figure:: 0308-casing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the top twice, so that the folded edge lies over the seam
+line, topstitch (with a twin needle) to form a casing for the elastic,
+leaving an opening in the center back.
+
+.. figure:: 0309-elastic.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Measure enough elastic to go snugly around the waist, insert it in the
+casing, sew it in a circle and hemstitch the casing closed by hand.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+