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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-11-20 20:47:11 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-11-20 20:47:11 +0100
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+Liliana Nightgown
+=================
+
+.. .. figure::
+ :align: center
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric.
+
+Yarn
+^^^^
+
+* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread matching the yarn;
+* sewing thread matching the fabric.
+
+Yoke Pattern
+------------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+ Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+ Waist circumference.
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+ Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
+ needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+ Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+ Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+ Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+
+the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`.
+
+Fabric Pattern
+--------------
+
+After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end
+of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for
+sewing allowances.
+
+The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance
+measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ``
+measurement, up to the full width of the fabric.
+
+The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length
+of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Yoke
+^^^^
+
+Following the shape of the pattern, ignoring the sewing allowances, make
+the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding
+a decorative pattern to the front.
+
+Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to
+make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with
+sewing allowances.
+
+Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is
+appropriate for the tecnique used.
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the
+body and the two sleeves.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
+with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the
+fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance.
+
+Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are
+covered and topstitch.
+
+Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*,
+sew about 2 mm from the fold.
+
+Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and
+fold down its top edge.
+
+Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your
+machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use
+that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple
+straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric.
+
+Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
+
+Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the
+body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any
+scalloped edge of the yoke.
+
+Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the
+excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the
+sides.
+
+Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
+
+Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the
+armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+