More shirt instructions

1 files changed, 41 insertions, 5 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index e7fb5ba..8d136ad 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -14,7 +14,9 @@ instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
 so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual
 for a modern pattern.
 
-Before making this shirt in expensive fabric 
+Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a
+mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may
+want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece.
 
 This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
 seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
@@ -39,14 +41,15 @@ Materials
 Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
-* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric.
-* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing 
+* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
+* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
 
 * sewing thread to match the fabric;
 * buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
+* small buttons.
 
 Pattern
 -------
@@ -326,12 +329,45 @@ Back
 Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top
 edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
 
-Assembly of the body
-^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
+shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
+and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part should become and
+how much material should be cut from the shoulder side for the armhole.
+Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case you want to use this
+pattern again.
+
+Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
+backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the
+shoulder piece. Press also the allowance of the same shoulder piece,
+pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
+piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.
+
+Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
+back of the shirt.
 
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
+Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning
+the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve.
+
+Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the
+gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and
+hemstitch it to the sleeve.
+
+Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
+the gusset and the sleeve.
+
+Right sides together, ...
+
+
+Assembly of the body
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Right sides together, align the back and front so that the hem is 8–10
+cm longer in the back (as decided when cutting) and mark a point 8–10 cm
+from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end.
+
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^