Cap instructionscap

3 files changed, 143 insertions, 9 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val
index fc15580..914ea26 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val
@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
 <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
 <pattern labelPrefix="en">
-    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
-    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
     <unit>cm</unit>
     <description/>
     <notes/>
@@ -16,7 +16,7 @@
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
     </patternLabel>
-    <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements>
+    <measurements path="head.vit"/>
     <increments>
         <increment description="How wide the visor should be, as an angle, halved" formula="75" name="#visor_half_angle"/>
         <increment formula="7" name="#visor_depth"/>
@@ -65,7 +65,7 @@
             <point id="51" idObject="26" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
-            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="head" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b16dac7c-6e27-4a68-8a18-3423c4d66a79}" version="2" width="1">
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="crown" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b16dac7c-6e27-4a68-8a18-3423c4d66a79}" version="2" width="1">
                 <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="128.31" my="-197.083" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="6" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
@@ -87,6 +87,7 @@
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
                     <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Interlining, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
                 </data>
                 <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="195.663" my="408.284" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
                 <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/measurements.vit b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit
index f382551..f382551 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/measurements.vit
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst
index 5d22bd9..1acabe8 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst
@@ -7,21 +7,154 @@ Cap with ear flaps
 Materials
 ---------
 
-* ~ 20 cm outer fabric;
-* ~ 20 cm lining;
-* ~ 20 cm sturdy interfacing for the visor;
-* ~ 40 cm millnery wire for the visor;
-* ~ 60 cm herringbone tape;
+* 20 cm outer fabric;
+* 20 cm lining;
+* 20 cm sturdy sew-in interfacing for the visor;
+* 40 cm millinery wire for the visor;
+* optional, 60 cm tape;
 * sewing thread.
 
 
 Pattern
 -------
 
+Download the pattern: :download:`cap.val`.
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``head_circ``
+  circumference of the head;
+``head_circ_chin_to_crown``
+  from chin to crown of head back to chin, passing above ears;
+``head_ear_to_ear``
+  From one ear to top of head to the other ear.
+
+The file :download:`head.vit` has the required measurements.
+
+You may also want to check the following increments:
+
+``visor_half_angle``
+  how wide the visor should be, as an angle, halved;
+``visor_depth``
+  length of the visor in the front;
+``ease``
+  total ease around the head, to allow for the bulk of fabric; increase
+  to at least 2 cm for thicker fabric.
+
+The defaults should be otherwise fine.
 
 Instructions
 ------------
 
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut all pieces as instructed on the pattern:
+
+* 6 head segments in both fabric and lining;
+* 2 ear flaps in both fabric and lining;
+* 2 visors in just fabric;
+* 2 visors in interfacing, *without sewing allowance*.
+
+If the interfacing isn't very strong you may want to cut 4, with the
+inner two a tiny bit smaller than the outer two.
+
+Visor
+^^^^^
+
+Put the the interfacing pieces on top of each other, sew some rows
+parallel to the outer edge, to reinforce the visor.
+
+Cut a piece of millinery wire 4 cm shorter than the outer edge,
+whipstitch it to the interfacing.
+
+Right sides together, put the fabric visor pieces on top of each other,
+sew the outer edge.
+
+Turn inside out and press.
+
+Insert the interfacing in the visor.
+
+Optionally topstitch the visor near the seam, just inside the millinery
+wire.
+
+.. note:: variant
+
+   Instead of sewing the interfacing by machine and leaving it floating
+   in the visor, you can padstitch the interfacing to the bottom fabric.
+
+Ear Flaps
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put one ear flap lining on top of one ear flap fabric, right sides
+together, sew all around the curved edge.
+
+.. note:: variant
+
+   Put a 30 cm piece of ribbon inside the ear flap, so that it gets
+   caught in the seam at the tip.
+
+Trim and clip the allowance, press and turn inside out.
+
+Optionally topstitch at 1 mm from the edge.
+
+Crown
+^^^^^
+
+After sewing each seam in the crown, notch the curves and trim the
+allowance near the tip before pressing the seam open.
+
+Put two fabric crown pieces on each other, right sides together, sew the right
+hand seam starting from one sewing allowance from the top. 
+
+Put a third fabric crown piece under the right side, right sides
+together, sew the right hand seam making sure to start in the same
+position as the previous seam.
+
+Repeat with all other fabric and lining pieces.
+
+Put the two halves of the fabric crown on each other, right sides
+together, and sew the two remaining seams starting from the top and
+going down to the edge. Repeat with the lining.
+
+.. tip:: doing this seam in one go, from edge to edge, may be tempting,
+   but will result in a less neat tip.
+
+After pressing the last two seams, if needed sew the very center closed
+by hand on both the fabric and the lining.
+
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
+Put the visor over the fabric crown, right sides together and centered
+on one of the seams, sew but don't press the seam yet.
+
+Put the eae flaps over the fabric crown, right sides together, centered
+on the first two segments after the visor, sew.
+
+Press all seams up, towards the inside of the cap.
+
+Press the allowance of the lining towards the wrong side, folding it 1-2
+mm larger than the allowance in the fabric.
+
+Wrong sides together, put the lining inside the cap and applique-stitch
+it, catching just the allowance of the main fabric, so that the stitches
+don't show outside.
+
+Optionally, put a self fabric covered button at the top of the cap to
+hide the point where the seams meet.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+Deerstalker Hat
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Reversible Hat
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
 Gallery
 -------