1880 shirt: finished instructions

1 files changed, 52 insertions, 10 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index a8f5d0d..300080b 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -201,6 +201,12 @@ Cutting
 
 Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
 
+If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
+pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
+lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with single (for
+the original felled seam) or double (for french seaming) seaming
+allowance.
+
 .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
    :align: center
 
@@ -224,14 +230,15 @@ for it not to be a problem.
    :align: center
 
 If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
-side, you probably need to cut gussets from both sides of the sleeves
-and 
+side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
+of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides.
 
 Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
 collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
 
-Cut two or four cuff pieces also in interfacing, and one or two collar
-pieces if not using a simple collar band.
+If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in
+interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar
+band.
 
 Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
 reinforcement patches.
@@ -382,9 +389,6 @@ edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
 each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the
 wrong side.
 
-Run two lines of gathering thread for about 20 cm at the center of the
-sleeve.
-
 Assembly of the body
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
@@ -397,14 +401,37 @@ cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end
 of the side seam.
 
 Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back
-is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. This seam will be
-felled after the sleeve has been inserted.
+is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double
+allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch.
 
 Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice,
 mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side
 seam, and hemstitch.
 
-<inserting the sleeves, felling the side seam>
+.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:
+
+Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a
+reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt.
+Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the
+sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye,
+starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the
+excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece.
+
+Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again.
+
+When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper
+and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front
+and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern.
+
+Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end,
+save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another
+shirt in this size.
+
+Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on
+both sides of the shirt.
+
+Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the
+points just marked.
 
 .. tip::
 
@@ -412,6 +439,17 @@ seam, and hemstitch.
    quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and
    sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance.
 
+Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the
+edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on
+the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the
+ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam
+allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder
+piece, catching each gather.
+
+Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of
+fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it
+towards the body.
+
 .. note::
 
    Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
@@ -432,4 +470,8 @@ outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
 Finishing
 ^^^^^^^^^
 
+Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more
+button and buttonholes on the front placket.
 
+Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
+half dozen :)