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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-07-12 16:32:19 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-07-12 16:32:19 +0200
commit61623583f9899429fca577fd5f9e9ed6b44ce95c (patch)
tree2078c2fdfdaed03eab8b89ae403142f570b83f36
parente8dfc965f6d5ff2a8c5d593299c5cb82cade380c (diff)
Pictures for the shirt
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpgbin0 -> 688082 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpgbin0 -> 1483258 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpgbin0 -> 1017372 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpgbin0 -> 124024 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpgbin0 -> 1370214 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpgbin0 -> 861212 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpgbin0 -> 1038767 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpgbin0 -> 924950 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpgbin0 -> 1012467 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val2
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst55
11 files changed, 44 insertions, 13 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg
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+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..67a842d
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+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..60915ce
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5f58b92
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9eafbef
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+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4e213d6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1f8b40f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..398c2bd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..01280e7
--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index 02b3302..2bb040d 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -167,7 +167,7 @@ treasury…</company>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="230" angle2="180" color="black" id="222" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="221" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<point firstPoint="212" id="223" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A67" secondPoint="78" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A22 + 90" color="black" id="224" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="223" type="simpleInteractive"/>
- <point firstPoint="102" id="229" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A68" secondPoint="103" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="102" id="229" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A68" secondPoint="103" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point angle="0" firstPoint="229" id="230" length="#sleeve_slit" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A69" secondPoint="102" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/>
</calculation>
<modeling>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index beb8097..b270b6c 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -414,6 +414,9 @@ Back
Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top
edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
+.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part
@@ -421,15 +424,24 @@ should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side
for the armhole. Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case
you want to use this pattern again.
+.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
-backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the
-shoulder piece. Press also the allowance of the same shoulder piece,
-pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
+backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the
+shoulder piece.
+Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.
+.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpt
+ :align: center
+
Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one.
+.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides
together, backstitch one side of the collar band.
@@ -447,24 +459,43 @@ raw edges.
Sleeves
^^^^^^^
+.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning
the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve.
+.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the
gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and
hemstitch it to the sleeve.
-Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
-the gusset and the sleeve.
+.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one
-seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch, fold the
-double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch it to the
-sleeve. Repeat the same with the other sleeve, taking care do make it
-symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the opposite direction).
+seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch
-Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the backof the sleeve,
-fold down the edges twice and hem stitch them down.
+.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
+the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the
+raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other
+sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the
+opposite direction).
+
+.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve
+(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and
+hem stitch them down.
+
+.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg
+ :align: center
From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
@@ -476,7 +507,7 @@ Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather
it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the
edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the
-wrong side.
+wrong side, again catching each gather.
Assembly of the body
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^