More sleeve instructions

1 files changed, 24 insertions, 9 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index bcad59a..bb6ff71 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -172,15 +172,9 @@ Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^
 
 Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the
-sleeve bands by forming box pleats 
-
-
-make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to
-distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at
-least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges.
-
-Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve, sew a running stitch
-at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place.
+sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the
+sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges
+to keep the pleats in place.
 
 Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back,
 press.
@@ -188,6 +182,27 @@ press.
 Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and
 applique stitch the folded edge.
 
+Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance
+towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the
+raw edges, press.
+
+Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve.
+
+Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with
+the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends.
+
+Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the
+band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one
+side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and
+hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from
+the band and stopping at the pin.
+
+Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem
+all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners.
+
+Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides
+together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the
+gusset and the other side of the sleeve.
 
 Shoulder Straps
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^