From 9286e515974ed3206d7b3802db8fdb1172f11b92 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2024 19:53:19 +0100 Subject: More sleeve instructions --- .../1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst | 33 ++++++++++++++++------ 1 file changed, 24 insertions(+), 9 deletions(-) diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index bcad59a..bb6ff71 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -172,15 +172,9 @@ Sleeves ^^^^^^^ Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the -sleeve bands by forming box pleats - - -make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to -distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at -least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges. - -Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve, sew a running stitch -at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place. +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, press. @@ -188,6 +182,27 @@ press. Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and applique stitch the folded edge. +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. Shoulder Straps ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -- cgit v1.2.3