diff options
| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-03-24 23:01:55 +0100 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-05-20 19:28:12 +0200 |
| commit | 33a18f3b6e29e12237798cfcf678da4b4ed37a26 (patch) | |
| tree | f86c687dddb4cbf05f05f3fa2d152426e714e522 | |
| parent | 2f8b0190e95f84856df505515b5f3c9967a34f55 (diff) | |
New pattern: combination suit.
25 files changed, 720 insertions, 1 deletions
diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib index 5ca93ae..6278ee5 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/web.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -5,4 +5,11 @@ url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", } +@misc{2010:combinations + author = {FIDM Museum}, + title = {Combination undergarments}, + year = {2010}, + url = "https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/10/combination-undergarments.html", + note = "Accessed 2023-05-05", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit index 7936b21..44b5eea 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit @@ -33,5 +33,6 @@ <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/> <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/> <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_knee" value="60"/> </body-measurements> </vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst index 0b97cf8..c4e54a1 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst @@ -66,6 +66,8 @@ page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ | Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Drawers Length | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ Blocks ------ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png Binary files differindex a0e9ea9..a0e9ea9 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst index 53e77f3..97321bc 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -8,5 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: - blairs/index + blair/index cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2848667 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c76297d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b6a91e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf26b5c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36a99e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea36482 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ebd554a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7522b72 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..66034d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9138acc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed0239b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..746a584 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..feaf4c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..74c2230 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6b4df3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val @@ -0,0 +1,395 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Combination Suit</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="add 1/8 of the difference for waist circumferences above 65 cm" formula="2" name="#dart_distance"/> + <increment description="lenght of the dart from the waist down" formula="16" name="#dart_waist_down"/> + <increment description="ease around the bust circumference: no more than a couple of cm" formula="2" name="#bust_ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#front_facing"/> + <increment formula="6.35" name="#front_added_depth"/> + <increment formula="6.35" name="#back_added_depth"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#shoulder_overlap"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#sleevelet_depth"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="combination"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="-1.66688" my="-1.64042" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="0.6" lineColor="black" mx="-2.32833" my="0.0264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="3" length="10" lineColor="black" mx="-1.89384" my="-0.926031" 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alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Optional %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="585.46" my="-156.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="221" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="220" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="214" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="215" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="216" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="217" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="218" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>220</record> + <record>221</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c2b23e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b22ad2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11c8779 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,313 @@ +1904 Combination Suit +===================== + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a combination suit (chemise and drawers) based on +:cite:`1904:blair`, or the previous edition :cite:`1897:blair`, with +knee-length split drawers, no sleeves (but armhole flaps) and a round neck. + +It should be suitable for the whole period when combinations were in +use, in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2-3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* small buttons; +* optional but recommended lace. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/blair/index`; +see that page for the required measurements. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combination_suit.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``dart_distance`` + 2 cm up to a waist circumference of 65 cm, then add 1/8 of the + difference. +``dart_waist_down`` + length of the lower part of the darts. +``bust_ease`` + how much ease to leave at the bust: no more than 2 cm. +``front_facing`` + width of the facing on the front and crotch opening; enough to add + buttons and buttonholes, but note that it will have to go around a + tight curve, where a narrower facing will work easily. +``front_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the front. +``back_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the back. +``shoulder_overlap`` + how much the sleevelet should overlap at the shoulder: 1 cm for a + shoulder strap with buttons, a bit more if the shoulder strap is + closed. +``sleevelet_depth`` + widest part of the sleevelet. +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 fronts; if your fabric isn't especially wide you may need to cut +each individual front in the full width of the fabric, rather than +cutting two at a time on folded fabric; make sure to cut them so that +they are symmetrical. +Cut the back on the fold of the fabric. +Cut two of the sleevelets. + +.. note:: + The length of the legs on the pattern is the length of plain legs, + finished just with a hem. + + To add a ruffle or lace at the bottom, remove its height from the + bottom of the leg, to add pintucks add twice their depth to the + bottom of the leg. + + Or keep the leg as is, and make enough pintucks to precisely match + the height of the ruffle. + +Mark all darts. + +From the remaining fabric also cut enough bias strips, about 4 cm wide, +to face the neck and enough cross-grain strips, 3 times the width set in +the pattern as ``front_facing`` to face the front and the crotch +opening. + +.. note:: + It is important that the facing on the front is on the grain or + cross-grain, but not on the bias, as it will have to stabilize the + bias cut front for the buttons and buttonholes. + + If you want to make a shaped facing instead of a straight one, cut it + with the front part on the (cross-)grain. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 01-darts.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts in the front, press them towards the side. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_legs.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-hemstitching_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together sew the legs, press the seam open, trim the front +allowance, press the allowances towards the front, folding the back to +cover the raw edges and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 04-sewn_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the cross-grain facing to the front and +crotch, using the ``front_facing`` measurement for the allowance +(default is 1 cm). + +.. warning:: + The line on the pattern is not the seam line, but the *center line*, + and will have to lie halfway through the facing where the buttons + will be, allowing for the overlapping. + + +.. figure:: 05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it towards the inside, fold again to cover all raw edges, hemstitch +it down. + +.. figure:: 06-basted_gathering.jpg + :align: center + +Baste two lines of gathering stitches between the marks of the drawers' +back, at 18 and 22 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 07-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press the bottom edge of the back towards the wrong side, pin it to the +fronts in such a way that the side seam aligns with back seam of the +side dart and the two fronts overlap in the middle up to the mark +closest to the center back (between points C8 and A10). + +.. tip:: + In the overlap I'd put the left leg on top, closest to the fabric of + the back, and the right leg on the bottom, closest to the body, + unless making the combinations for somebody who is left-handed. + +Gather the excess of the fabric and hemstitch the back over them, +catching each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 08-finishing_back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance on the back, fold the allowance from the drawers over +it and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. tip:: + To reduce bulk, you can also trim both allowances and cover + everything with a band of fabric hemstitched to the inside to cover + them. + +.. figure:: 09-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the side seams continuing down into the side +darts, and the shoulder seams. + +Press open and then towards the back, trim the allowances of the back +until you reach the dart, flat fell the seam with a hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 12-sleevelet_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the straight edge of the sleevelets with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 13-sleevelet_attached.jpg + :align: center + + This picture and the next have been taken on the variant with + buttoned shoulders; with sewn shoulders it should be similar, but the + ends of the sleevelet would overlap by a few cm. + +Put the sleevelet over the armhole, right sides together, such that the +curved edge follows the line of the armhole, extending by 1 cm from the +allowance of the armhole, and in such a way that the ends overlap a bit +close to the shoulder seam and any fullness is gathered around the side +seam. Sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances open and then towards the body, fold the allowance +of the sleevelet to cover all raw edges and hemstitch down to fell the +seam. + +.. figure:: 15-neck_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing to the neck, press towards the +inside, fold to cover the raw edges and hemstitch down. + +.. figure:: 16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg + :align: center + + Here instead of a simple hem the edge has been folded up by 3 cm, + sewn at 1 cm from the fold, and then the raw edge has been folded + down 1 cm twice, to hide the raw edge and make a receiving tuck for + lace. + +Fold the leg hem up twice by 2 cm towards the wrong side, hemstitch it down for a plain finish, or add pintucks, ruffles and lace as desired. + +Starting from the top and going down to about the end of the darts or a +bit above it, make buttonholes every 4 cm on the right front and attach +corresponding buttons to the left front. + +Variants +-------- + +Buttoned shoulders +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To be able to wear these combinations under an evening dress it is +useful to be able to open the shoulder strap to move them out of the +way. + +To do so, add 5 mm to the allowances at the shoulder seams and instead +of sewing the fronts to the back finish each allowance by folding it +twice towards the wrong side 1 cm after the sleevelets have been added. + +Make two buttonholes on each front and add the corresponding buttons to +the back. + +Fullness instead of darts +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a fitted front with darts, the combination suit can be made +with fullness in the front, controlled with e.g. a drawstring or a +ribbon passed through beading lace at the waist. + +In that case, print piece C ``front_with_fullness`` instead of piece B +``front_with_gathers``, avoid sewing the darts (of course) and add a +mean to control the fullness to the waistline. + +Drawers +^^^^^^^ + +To make just a pair of drawers print piece C ``front_with_fullness``, +cut the drawers part 5 cm under the waistline, add a 5 cm waistband and +gather the legs to it. + +Knit fabric combinations +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: knit_combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +To make this a combination suit in knit fabric you can use the pattern piece +with darts, without sewing them, and sew the center front down to the +end of the darts rather than make buttons. + +Before finishing the neckhole check that it is wide enough to enter the +suit: if it isn't you may have to lower it, or to open a small length of +the center front and make buttons and buttonholes. + +Also make sure that the neckhole finishing maintains the required +elasticity. + +To give any kind of longevity to the garment you will have to use an +elastic stitch: since sewing it from flat knit fabric is not a common +historical construction method anyway I'd use modern stitches such as a +narrow zig-zag. + +You can also avoid the facings and simply fold the raw edges towards the +wrong side once and topstitch them down (a 3-steps zig zag stitch would +work nicely): the raw edge will remain visible, but protected. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center + +See also +-------- + +* `Fediverse thread on whether people would have sewn knit underwear at + home + <https://social.gl-como.it/display/3e3ce0df-2464-65d0-644b-412075423818>`_ + (I suspect not). diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e08e19 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 5762350..3b96774 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -7,4 +7,5 @@ :caption: Contents: combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index + 1904_combination_suit/index |
