From 33a18f3b6e29e12237798cfcf678da4b4ed37a26 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 23:01:55 +0100 Subject: New pattern: combination suit. --- source/bibliography/web.bib | 7 + .../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit | 38 ++ .../drafting_methods/blair/index.rst | 76 ++++ .../drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png | Bin 0 -> 137162 bytes .../drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit | 37 -- .../drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst | 74 ---- .../drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png | Bin 137162 -> 0 bytes .../drafting_methods/index.rst | 2 +- .../underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1016234 bytes .../1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg | Bin 0 -> 965425 bytes .../1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1598477 bytes .../1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1069930 bytes .../05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1175990 bytes .../1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg | Bin 0 -> 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source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst delete mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/01-darts.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/02-sewn_legs.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/03-hemstitching_legs.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/04-sewn_front_facing.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/06-basted_gathering.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/07-sewing_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/08-finishing_back_seam.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/09-side_seams.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/12-sleevelet_hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/13-sleevelet_attached.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/15-neck_facing.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combination_suit.val create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib index 5ca93ae..6278ee5 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/web.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -5,4 +5,11 @@ url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", } +@misc{2010:combinations + author = {FIDM Museum}, + title = {Combination undergarments}, + year = {2010}, + url = "https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/10/combination-undergarments.html", + note = "Accessed 2023-05-05", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..44b5eea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ + + + + 0.5.2 + false + + cm + 998 + + + 1800-01-01 + unknown + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4e54a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,76 @@ +Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. +========================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of +:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and +page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. + +.. figure:: measurements.png + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Blair's | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Drawers Length | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0e9ea9 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit deleted file mode 100644 index 7936b21..0000000 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit +++ /dev/null @@ -1,37 +0,0 @@ - - - - 0.5.2 - false - - cm - 998 - - - 1800-01-01 - unknown - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst deleted file mode 100644 index 0b97cf8..0000000 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst +++ /dev/null @@ -1,74 +0,0 @@ -Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. -========================================================== - -This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. - -All measurements have been converted to metric. - -Measurements ------------- - -The blocks have been converted to metric measures. - -All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a -corset, following the instructions given by the book. - -The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in -these blocks and the patterns derived from them. - -Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of -:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and -page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. - -.. figure:: measurements.png - :align: center - -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| Blair's | Valentina | -+======================+=====+==============================================+ -| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ -| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | -+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ - -Blocks ------- - - - diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png deleted file mode 100644 index a0e9ea9..0000000 Binary files a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png and /dev/null differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst 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+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 111 + 112 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 109 + 110 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 164 + 165 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 220 + 221 + + +
+ + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c2b23e Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b22ad2 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11c8779 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,313 @@ +1904 Combination Suit +===================== + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a combination suit (chemise and drawers) based on +:cite:`1904:blair`, or the previous edition :cite:`1897:blair`, with +knee-length split drawers, no sleeves (but armhole flaps) and a round neck. + +It should be suitable for the whole period when combinations were in +use, in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2-3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* small buttons; +* optional but recommended lace. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/blair/index`; +see that page for the required measurements. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combination_suit.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``dart_distance`` + 2 cm up to a waist circumference of 65 cm, then add 1/8 of the + difference. +``dart_waist_down`` + length of the lower part of the darts. +``bust_ease`` + how much ease to leave at the bust: no more than 2 cm. +``front_facing`` + width of the facing on the front and crotch opening; enough to add + buttons and buttonholes, but note that it will have to go around a + tight curve, where a narrower facing will work easily. +``front_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the front. +``back_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the back. +``shoulder_overlap`` + how much the sleevelet should overlap at the shoulder: 1 cm for a + shoulder strap with buttons, a bit more if the shoulder strap is + closed. +``sleevelet_depth`` + widest part of the sleevelet. +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 fronts; if your fabric isn't especially wide you may need to cut +each individual front in the full width of the fabric, rather than +cutting two at a time on folded fabric; make sure to cut them so that +they are symmetrical. +Cut the back on the fold of the fabric. +Cut two of the sleevelets. + +.. note:: + The length of the legs on the pattern is the length of plain legs, + finished just with a hem. + + To add a ruffle or lace at the bottom, remove its height from the + bottom of the leg, to add pintucks add twice their depth to the + bottom of the leg. + + Or keep the leg as is, and make enough pintucks to precisely match + the height of the ruffle. + +Mark all darts. + +From the remaining fabric also cut enough bias strips, about 4 cm wide, +to face the neck and enough cross-grain strips, 3 times the width set in +the pattern as ``front_facing`` to face the front and the crotch +opening. + +.. note:: + It is important that the facing on the front is on the grain or + cross-grain, but not on the bias, as it will have to stabilize the + bias cut front for the buttons and buttonholes. + + If you want to make a shaped facing instead of a straight one, cut it + with the front part on the (cross-)grain. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 01-darts.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts in the front, press them towards the side. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_legs.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-hemstitching_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together sew the legs, press the seam open, trim the front +allowance, press the allowances towards the front, folding the back to +cover the raw edges and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 04-sewn_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the cross-grain facing to the front and +crotch, using the ``front_facing`` measurement for the allowance +(default is 1 cm). + +.. warning:: + The line on the pattern is not the seam line, but the *center line*, + and will have to lie halfway through the facing where the buttons + will be, allowing for the overlapping. + + +.. figure:: 05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it towards the inside, fold again to cover all raw edges, hemstitch +it down. + +.. figure:: 06-basted_gathering.jpg + :align: center + +Baste two lines of gathering stitches between the marks of the drawers' +back, at 18 and 22 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 07-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press the bottom edge of the back towards the wrong side, pin it to the +fronts in such a way that the side seam aligns with back seam of the +side dart and the two fronts overlap in the middle up to the mark +closest to the center back (between points C8 and A10). + +.. tip:: + In the overlap I'd put the left leg on top, closest to the fabric of + the back, and the right leg on the bottom, closest to the body, + unless making the combinations for somebody who is left-handed. + +Gather the excess of the fabric and hemstitch the back over them, +catching each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 08-finishing_back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance on the back, fold the allowance from the drawers over +it and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. tip:: + To reduce bulk, you can also trim both allowances and cover + everything with a band of fabric hemstitched to the inside to cover + them. + +.. figure:: 09-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the side seams continuing down into the side +darts, and the shoulder seams. + +Press open and then towards the back, trim the allowances of the back +until you reach the dart, flat fell the seam with a hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 12-sleevelet_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the straight edge of the sleevelets with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 13-sleevelet_attached.jpg + :align: center + + This picture and the next have been taken on the variant with + buttoned shoulders; with sewn shoulders it should be similar, but the + ends of the sleevelet would overlap by a few cm. + +Put the sleevelet over the armhole, right sides together, such that the +curved edge follows the line of the armhole, extending by 1 cm from the +allowance of the armhole, and in such a way that the ends overlap a bit +close to the shoulder seam and any fullness is gathered around the side +seam. Sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances open and then towards the body, fold the allowance +of the sleevelet to cover all raw edges and hemstitch down to fell the +seam. + +.. figure:: 15-neck_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing to the neck, press towards the +inside, fold to cover the raw edges and hemstitch down. + +.. figure:: 16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg + :align: center + + Here instead of a simple hem the edge has been folded up by 3 cm, + sewn at 1 cm from the fold, and then the raw edge has been folded + down 1 cm twice, to hide the raw edge and make a receiving tuck for + lace. + +Fold the leg hem up twice by 2 cm towards the wrong side, hemstitch it down for a plain finish, or add pintucks, ruffles and lace as desired. + +Starting from the top and going down to about the end of the darts or a +bit above it, make buttonholes every 4 cm on the right front and attach +corresponding buttons to the left front. + +Variants +-------- + +Buttoned shoulders +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To be able to wear these combinations under an evening dress it is +useful to be able to open the shoulder strap to move them out of the +way. + +To do so, add 5 mm to the allowances at the shoulder seams and instead +of sewing the fronts to the back finish each allowance by folding it +twice towards the wrong side 1 cm after the sleevelets have been added. + +Make two buttonholes on each front and add the corresponding buttons to +the back. + +Fullness instead of darts +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a fitted front with darts, the combination suit can be made +with fullness in the front, controlled with e.g. a drawstring or a +ribbon passed through beading lace at the waist. + +In that case, print piece C ``front_with_fullness`` instead of piece B +``front_with_gathers``, avoid sewing the darts (of course) and add a +mean to control the fullness to the waistline. + +Drawers +^^^^^^^ + +To make just a pair of drawers print piece C ``front_with_fullness``, +cut the drawers part 5 cm under the waistline, add a 5 cm waistband and +gather the legs to it. + +Knit fabric combinations +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: knit_combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +To make this a combination suit in knit fabric you can use the pattern piece +with darts, without sewing them, and sew the center front down to the +end of the darts rather than make buttons. + +Before finishing the neckhole check that it is wide enough to enter the +suit: if it isn't you may have to lower it, or to open a small length of +the center front and make buttons and buttonholes. + +Also make sure that the neckhole finishing maintains the required +elasticity. + +To give any kind of longevity to the garment you will have to use an +elastic stitch: since sewing it from flat knit fabric is not a common +historical construction method anyway I'd use modern stitches such as a +narrow zig-zag. + +You can also avoid the facings and simply fold the raw edges towards the +wrong side once and topstitch them down (a 3-steps zig zag stitch would +work nicely): the raw edge will remain visible, but protected. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center + +See also +-------- + +* `Fediverse thread on whether people would have sewn knit underwear at + home + `_ + (I suspect not). diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e08e19 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 5762350..3b96774 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -7,4 +7,5 @@ :caption: Contents: combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index + 1904_combination_suit/index -- cgit v1.2.3