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-rw-r--r--cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val21
1 files changed, 18 insertions, 3 deletions
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val b/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
index 12d0407..c4cb668 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
@@ -11,6 +11,7 @@
<increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/>
<increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/>
<increment formula="5" name="#ease"/>
+ <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/>
</increments>
<previewCalculations/>
<draw name="pattern">
@@ -57,15 +58,29 @@
<spline aScale="0" angle1="220" angle2="70" color="black" id="41" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="AngleLine_A1_A3 + 90" color="black" id="42" length1="3" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="34" point4="40" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<point angle="AngleLine_A3_Ae - 90" basePoint="40" id="43" lineColor="black" mx="-1.96924" my="-2.11618" name="A3d" p1Line="2" p2Line="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
- <point firstPoint="43" id="44" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="1.28842" my="-2.02311" name="A0qqq1" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="43" id="44" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.418619" my="-2.25589" name="A3dqqq" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point angle="0" basePoint="6" id="45" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25f" p1Line="23" p2Line="14" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
<point id="46" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3b" p1Line1="40" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="44" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A1_A3 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="47" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="40" point4="46" type="simpleInteractive"/>
- <point firstPoint="40" id="48" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-1.80093" my="-2.04419" name="A5" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="40" id="48" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="-1.80093" my="-2.04419" name="A4" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="250" color="black" id="49" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="48" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
- <point angle="270" basePoint="48" id="50" length="Spl_A4q_A3 - Spl_A5_A4q" lineColor="black" mx="-1.70705" my="1.14797" name="A4" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="270" basePoint="48" id="50" length="Spl_A4q_A3 - Spl_A4_A4q" lineColor="black" mx="-1.70705" my="1.14797" name="A4d" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
<point id="51" mx="-2.27037" my="0.302988" name="A4b" p1Line1="50" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="43" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270" color="black" id="52" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="51" point4="50" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point firstPoint="48" id="53" length="Line_A4q_A8b - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-1.85331" name="A7q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="53" id="54" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="0.652546" my="-1.85331" name="A8q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="54" id="55" length="Line_A8b_A11h - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-2.08609" name="A11q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="55" id="56" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="0.652546" my="-1.93091" name="A12q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="180" color="black" id="57" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="36" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point angle="90" basePoint="35" curve="57" id="58" lineColor="black" mx="-0.899307" my="-3.32757" name="A8ba" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_Af_Ad + 90" color="black" id="61" length1="8" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="36" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point angle="90" basePoint="33" curve="61" id="62" lineColor="black" mx="-2.0632" my="-3.63794" name="A11ha" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="53" id="65" mx="-3.38228" my="-2.08609" name="A7qd" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <point firstPoint="65" id="66" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.885324" my="-2.0085" name="A7qdqqq" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point id="67" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7qb" p1Line1="53" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="66" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+ <point id="68" mx="-3.30468" my="0.24169" name="A8qb" p1Line1="54" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="65" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="69" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="53" point4="67" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270" color="black" id="70" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="68" point4="54" type="simpleInteractive"/>
</calculation>
<modeling/>
<details/>