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1880s Sportswear Jacket
=======================
.. figure:: jacket.jpg
:align: center
The drafting manual I've used for this jacket, :cite:`1892:cutters`, is
from 1892, but tends to show shapes more typical of the natural form and
second bustle eras
Most of the jacket is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an
historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with
handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full jacket is also an
option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a
backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams.
Note that this isn't a full pattern: there is a drafted block (or you
can use a similarly shaped one you already have) and there are
instructions on how to develop and then sew the jacket from that.
Inspiratons and additional sources
----------------------------------
* :cite:`1892:cutters`, Fig. 15, The BeatricePlate 5a.
* :cite:`1896:elements`
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* About 1.5 m of fashion fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton,
linen or wool;
* about 1.5 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen;
* a small piece of canvas / interlining for the collar.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* hooks and bars;
Pattern
-------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`ladies_jacket.val`.
You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
Instructions
------------
Cutting
^^^^^^^
Cut all pieces of the jacket from either the fabric or the lining,
whichever is the most stable. Leave a bigger allowance (e.g. 4 cm) on
the center back, to fill in the hollows, and on the shoulder and side
seams, for fitting adjustments.
On the fabric, you may also want to leave a double allowance for the
hem.
Use the pieces you've just cut as a pattern to cut the other one (fabric
or lining).
Also cut two collar pieces (on the fold), two applied pockets and four
pocket flaps from the fabric, two pockets from the lining and one collar
from the interfacing.
Pockets and collar
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Put the collar pieces right sides together with the interlining on top,
sew all around at 1 cm from the edge, leaving a few cm open in the
center bottom.
Press, clip and notch the allowances, turn inside out, press again.
You don't need to whipstitch the opening close, as it will be closed
with attaching the collar to the jacket.
Leave aside until the jacket is finished.
Put the lining on top of the pocket pieces, right sides together, sew at
1 cm from the edge, leaving a few cm open to one side.
Put the two parts of the pocket flaps right sides together, sew at 1 cm
from the edge, leaving a few cm open at the top.
Press, clip and notch the allowances of the pockets and pocket flaps,
turn inside out, press again.
The openings will be closed when applying the pockets to the jacket.
Flatlining
^^^^^^^^^^
Back
^^^^
.. note:: on basting
Usually, I'm not a basting person: I tend to pin and sew directly,
and for simple straight seams I even skip the pins.
In this case, however, all of the vertical seams are curved and need
to be sewn precisely, so I'd strongly recommend basting them before
sewing, starting from the waistline, which is where most precision is
needed and going upwards and then downwards.
.. tip::
When sewing the basted seams, sew just outside the basted line: this
will provide for the space lost in the seam bulk, and make it easier
to remove the basting thread afterwards.
After sewing and checking from the right side that the seam is
correct, remove the basting thread (including those that marked the
seam line) before pressing and finishing the raw edges.
Starting from the center back and moving out, pin, baste and sew all
seams of the back.
Remove the basting thread, including the ones used to mark these
seamlines and press open.
Cut a piece of herrinbone tape long enough to go around the waist, sew
its center to the allowances of the center back, as close as possible to
the seam. Hem the ends.
Press 6 mm of the allowances towards the lining, fell them down with a
herringbone stitch taking care to only catch the lining.
You may have to clip the allowances to let it lie flat on the curves,
but try to avoid cutting into them as much as possible, as the wide
allowances are very useful in case you need to adapt the jacket to body
shape changes in the future. Using a steam iron to help the fabric
follow the curves can be useful, especially with wool.
Assembly
^^^^^^^^
Pin and baste the side seam, starting from the waist and allowing for
any lenght difference at the two edges. Also pin and baste the shoulder
seams, easing the longer back into the front.
While wearing your full underwear and supports, try on the jacket,
pinning the center fronts together, and adjust the fit as needed.
If the side and shoulder seams have to be unpicked and redone, but you
are already sure about the position of the pockets, you may want to
proceed to attach them on the fronts, otherwise continue with the seams
and attach them later to the finished jacket body.
Sew the side and shoulder seams, press open, press back 1 cm and
herryingbone stitch the allowances to the lining.
Pockets
^^^^^^^
Try the jacket on, mark the position for the welt pocket above the bust,
and pin the pockets and pocket flaps in their position.
Sleeves
^^^^^^^
Pin, baste and sew the underarm (shorter) seam on both sleeves.
Press open, and fell down the allowances.
Pin the outer seam, baste it starting from the top and down to about 2
cm above the wrist; baste it starting from the wrist and finally ease or
gather the excess from the upper part in the remaining length. Sew,
press and fell down the allowances.
Try the jacket on, put a pin at the actual top of the shoulder.
Pin the sleeve in the inside-out body, right sides together, aligning
the outer seam to the second seam in the back (from the side); the inner
seam will fall somewhere in the lower middle of the front. Pleat the
excess fabric into 5 or 7 cm centered on the top shoulder pin.
Whipstitch the seam, starting in such a way that the pleated section is
sewn last.
Gallery
-------
.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg
:align: center
|
