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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 45 |
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 20a0430..e7fb5ba 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -40,6 +40,7 @@ Fabric ^^^^^^ * About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric. +* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -222,9 +223,32 @@ and Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue. +Cut two or four cuff pieces also in interfacing, and one or two collar +pieces if not using a simple collar band. + Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small reinforcement patches. +Collar and Cuffs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides +and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt. + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +.. note:: + + If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its + construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or + two layers of interfacing. + +Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top, +backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium), +leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + Front ^^^^^ @@ -278,9 +302,30 @@ Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased. +Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back, +then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on +the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and +remove the collar from the assembly. + +Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides +together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two +shoulders. Press up. + +.. note:: + + This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original + instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back + first. + + This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it + easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit. + Back ^^^^ +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top +edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. + Assembly of the body ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |