diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
9 files changed, 914 insertions, 8 deletions
diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index 4d09b45..080614e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", - note = "", + note = "See also https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_cutters\%27_practical_guide_to_the_cutting_of_ladies\%27_garments for plates 2 and 3, missing on the archive.org copy.", } @Book{1909:american diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4965a96 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="120"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="height_armpit" value="120"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="45"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="70"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="40"/> + <m name="armfold_to_armfold_bust" value="44"/> + <m name="neck_circ" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_armfold_front" value="30"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_bust_front" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front" value="41"/> + <m name="height_waist_front" value="100"/> + <m name="height_waist_side" value="102"/> + <m name="height_waist_back" value="105"/> + <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="30"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d6c88d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val @@ -0,0 +1,216 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Foundation Skirt</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line 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italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1828.3" my="920.986" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dec05d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,117 @@ +The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments +============================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`. + +At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they +have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances +from Valentina used instead. + +All measurements have also been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book +itself. + +Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3 + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle + +Skirts and Trousers +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Riding Habits etc. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +S. B. tight-fitting Jacket +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate +21. + +* :download:`ladies_jacket.val` + +Skirt +^^^^^ + +Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. + +* :download:`foundation_skirt.val` + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7854452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val @@ -0,0 +1,521 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tight Fitting Ladies Jacket</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + 25" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#ease"/> + 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<record path="187"/> + <record path="190"/> + <record path="196"/> + <record path="202"/> + <record path="214"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="240" mx="-20.8932" my="1.32422" name="topside_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e9b97690-8894-49cc-8df1-b3eed34ec2e8}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="E" mx="-1060.34" my="814.188" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-1044.05" my="211.689" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="266" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="265" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="231" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="232" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="233" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="234" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="235" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="236" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="237" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="238" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="244" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="239" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="243" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="271"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>265</record> + <record>266</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="262" mx="2.57767" my="0.147135" name="under_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{ebbd3e7c-9d6f-48c8-abe5-ba108e213f39}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-994.115" my="1060.45" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-994.115" my="677.778" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="268" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="267" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="253" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="255" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="256" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="257" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="258" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="259" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="260" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="261" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="274"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>267</record> + <record>268</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89b8387 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +**************************************** + Historical Womenswear Drafting Methods +**************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index d67d4c7..dd4ddf8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -12,3 +12,4 @@ considered womenswear. skirts/index accessories/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val index c1e2e3f..c10a1da 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength=""> - <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> <version>0.9.0</version> <unit>cm</unit> <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> - <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements> + <measurements>../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit</measurements> <increments> <increment formula="3" name="#waistband_height"/> <increment formula="3" name="#placket_width"/> @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <node after="1" idObject="169" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="12"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="2"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-506.416" my="3129.19" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> @@ -322,12 +322,12 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, </nodes> </detail> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="190" inLayout="false" mx="0.183511" my="20.1862" name="facing_back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c902fb54-8e8b-410d-a464-2005c37fb46c}" version="2" width="2"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-2863.48" my="3146.41" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-3203.17" my="3128.24" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="facing %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3345.82" my="3155.02" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3636.51" my="3141.39" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node after="1" before="0" idObject="186" type="NodePoint"/> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 0ec412f..9c5908a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -55,6 +55,8 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -73,8 +75,8 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ |