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diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index f85f7fa..9bee1b5 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index pair_of_pockets/index + roll_top_backpack/index + shoulder_sack/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a553d6a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c359aa0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e374b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..897bfab --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..22ffcbc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b909fe5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f442c52 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..261bab6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e845ab6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..acf463d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst index 6b5f105..d97a3af 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -47,6 +47,14 @@ This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. +For the edge binding you can use finished tape, folded in half, or +strips of fabric, cut either on the straight grain (generally more +historically accurate) or the bias, folded in half and with the raw +edges folded towards the inside. + +For the tape that runs around the waist you can use finished tape, or +fabric folded like the edge binding. + Pattern ------- @@ -66,8 +74,8 @@ Instructions If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider -leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your -binding. +leaving a clear space around those markings of at least half the width +of your binding. Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may @@ -78,24 +86,50 @@ from now on treat as one. Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. +.. figure:: 0101-binding_slit_front.jpg + :align: center + If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of -the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. +the binding + +.. figure:: 0102-binding_slit_back.jpg + :align: center + +press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and then hemstitch the wrong side. -Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges -towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides -to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and -hemstitching to the wrong. +.. figure:: 0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg + :align: center + +Cut four small patches (two per pocket) from the scraps of fabric, fold +their edges towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on +both sides to reinforce the weak point, + +.. figure:: 0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +applique stitching to the rigth side + +.. figure:: 0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitching to the wrong. + +.. figure:: 0107-front_and_back.jpg + :align: center Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. +.. figure:: 0108-binding_edges.jpg + :align: center + Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the -slit. +slit, carefully following the curves at the bottom. Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are @@ -106,7 +140,24 @@ symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. -Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. +.. figure:: 0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg + :align: center + +If using tape with raw edges, first sew the pockets to the tape, right +sides together, + +.. figure:: 0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg + :align: center + +then fold down the tape and whipstitch it closed starting from one end + +.. figure:: 0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +and continuing on the back of the pockets, and to the other end. + +If using finished tape, hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom +edge of the tape. Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the @@ -140,6 +191,11 @@ Gallery The back of the same pocket, with two additional belt loops to be able to wear it also when not using a MOLLE base. +.. figure:: jättevallmo_pockets.jpg + :align: center + + A pair of pockets made out of leftovers of a JÄTTEVALLMO duvet cover. + .. _pockets_see_also: See Also diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2fe8f7e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0200-molle_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0200-molle_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4dfd00 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11562fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35c8a32 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2da25e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +Roll Top Backpack +================= + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple backpack with a roll top closure. + +The pictures show this backpack as being sewn completely by hand: this +was because of some specific constraints of the project (mentioned in +the blog post), and it shows that MYOG as a hobby can be accessible even +when lacking a sewing machine. + +Most of the constructions could of course be done by machine, but +in that case I think it would be easier to bind the raw edges instead of +felling them, and using the variant with box corners instead of a +separate bottom. Attaching the leather-ish protection to the bottom +needs to be done by hand, however. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 1 m outer fabric (e.g. waxed canvas); +* 1 m lining fabric (e.g. lighter canvas); +* 30 cm leather-like material for reinforcements. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2.1 m 25 mm webbing; +* 1.6 m 50 mm webbing; +* 4 50 mm D-rings; +* 2 25 mm D-rings; +* glue suitable for the leather-like material; +* strong sewing thread; + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern from :download:`roll_top_backpack.val`. + +The file is set up to only print the pattern pieces for the bottom, +strap support and webbing cover, also available as a tiled PDF in A4 +format: :download:`roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf`; everything else are just +rectangles, and their measurements can be taken from the Variables Table +in valentina. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as indicated on the patter, either the basic pieces or +the ``bc`` variants if making the `Box Corners`_ variant. + +Back preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: Optionally add a molle pattern to the back, to be able to + attach some removable padding. + + .. figure:: 0200-molle_back.jpg + :align: center + + Cut 7 pieces of 25 mm webbing as wide as the back (including + allowances); starting 6.5 cm from the base put them at one webbing + width of distance from each other over the bottom back piece. + + Mark a line in the center, and lines at every 4 cm on each distance, and + sew, backstitching over each piece. + + If desired, sew similar pieces of webbing to the lower part of the + other panels. + +.. figure:: 0201-webbing_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 2 pieces of 50 mm webbing 80 cm long, fold them in half and slide +two wide D-rings in each of them. Sew them in place as close to the +D-ring as possible. + +.. figure:: 0202-whipstitch_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch or topstitch the edges of the webbing, making them +a single strap of double thickness. + +.. figure:: 0203-sewing_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the webbing pieces to the allowance at the top of the bottom back +piece, at 4 cm from the center. + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_closure_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, sew it to the allowance at the +top of the bottom back piece, right at the center. + +.. figure:: 0205-strap_support_preparation.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, put them on each strap +support so that one edge goes from one corner to the middle of the long +side and there are 5 cm of webbing beyond the long side. + +.. figure:: 0206-strap_support_sewing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the strap support in half, right sides facing, and sew at 1 cm from +the long edge. + +.. figure:: 0207-strap_support_topstitching.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, topstitch all around the webbing. + +.. figure:: 0208-attaching_strap_support.jpg + :align: center + +Put the strap support on top of the bottom back, 5 cm from the bottom, +with the webbing facing up, and sew in the allowance. + +Trim the excess webbing. + +.. figure:: 0209-sewing_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top back piece over the bottom back and +sew. Press the allowances up. + +Front preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-preparing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 10 cm of 25 mm webbing, put two D-rings in it, fold it in half and +sew as close to the rings as possible. + +.. figure:: 0302-whipstitching_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch the two sides. + +.. figure:: 0303-front_closure_placement.jpg + :align: center + +Put it in the center of the front piece, in such a way that the top +of the D-rings aligns just below the level of the seam in the back. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Sew a 2 cm × 2 cm square at the bottom of the webbing, plus diagonals +for strength. + +.. figure:: 0305-webbing_cover_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the webbing cover so that it covers the square seam and the raw ends +of the webbing, and appliquestitch it in place. + +Structure +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-back_over_back_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back over the back lining, wrong sides together, aligning it at +the bottom edge, centering it between the side edges so that there is 1 +cm of lining excess on each side, and making sure that at the top the +back is 2 cm longer than the lining. + +.. figure:: 0402-side_and_lining_over_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put one side lining on top of one side, aligned at the bottom and with 2 +cm of excess side compared to the lining. +Put the side on top of the back, outer / fabric sides together, aligning +the side of the side with that of the back outer. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam at 2 cm from the back lining edge (i.e. 1 cm from +every other edge). + +.. figure:: 0404-felling_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press the allowance of the back lining in +half, press the seam towards the side and fell. + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0405-sewing_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front on top of one side, right sides together and aligned at +the bottom and side edge, put the front lining on top of everything, +with right side on top, and aligned at the bottom and so that there is 1 +cm of excess of lining on the side. Sew at 2 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0406-felling_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Fell the seam. + +.. tip:: you can slide a metal ruler between the side and the side + lining to help you fell the seam without catching the outer fabric. + +.. figure:: 0407-aligning_other_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat for the other side of the front. + +.. figure:: 0410-attaching_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +With the body still inside out, put the outer base on the base lining, +wrong sides together, so that the outer is centered on the lining. +Starting from the corners put the base in the body, aligning the edges of +the body with the edge of the outer base and taking care to keep the +corners neat. Sew at 2 cm from the base lining edge. + +.. figure:: 0411-felling_base.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam towards the sides and fell, trying to fold the corners +as neatly as you can. + +.. figure:: 0412-hemming_top_opening.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the fabric at the top towards the lining, twice, forming a +hem, hemstitch it in place. + +Reinforcements +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Cut three rectangular pieces of reinforcement material, 3 cm wide and 2 +cm tall, fold them in half and sew them over the end of the straps. + +.. figure:: 0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the bottom piece F out of reinforcement material, glue the side tabs +closed to form a parallelepipedal open on the top. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Applique-stitch the reinforcement to the bottom of the backpack, making +sure to only catch the fabric and not the lining. + +.. tip:: depending on the material this reinforcement could be glued to + the backpack instead of being sewn, but this would make it harder to + change it later in case it was ruined from use. + +Variants +-------- + +Bound raw edges +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of flat-felling the raw edges, you can cut every piece with the +same sewing allowance of 1 cm, sew the pieces as instructed and then +bind the raw edges with bias or straight tape. + +Box corners +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a separate bottom you can make the front and back pieces +longer and add a seam at the center of the bottom; this will make the +bottom of the pack a bit less structured, but can be significantly +easier to sew. + +To do so, instead of pieces A, A1, B and D1 cut the pieces Abc, A1bc, +Bbc and D1bd, and skip piece E and E1. + +Sew the sides of the backpack as instructed above, aligning the pieces +from the top, when the instructions + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_back.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `The blog post where I describe planning and making this backpack + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/07/25-roll_top_backpack_handsewn/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff7e3c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfad8cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val @@ -0,0 +1,418 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Roll top backpack</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + 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/dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4fe3d3c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c570c1d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1083781 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa10271 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..978a388 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +Shoulder Sack +============= + +.. .. figure:: sack.jpg + :align: center + +This bag style is, I believe, pretty common among reenactors of epochs +between the Middle Ages and the 18th century, and I've found online a +`list of period depictions of similar bags +<http://www.larsdatter.com/wallets.htm>`_ . + +It is a convenient style of bag that can be used to carry clothing and +other goods. + +These instructions aren't historically accurate, but at least the one +sewn by hand are vaguely plausible, since they use stitches and +techniques with a long history. + +The instructions for machine sewing give a bag with visible machine +stitching that is probably not appropriate for any reenactment, but are +suitable for an historically-inspired variant made with modern technical +fabric. + +Materials +--------- + +* Less than 1 m sturdy linen or cotton fabric, or lightweight waterproof + synthetics; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +This bag is made out of a rectangle of fabric as high as the length and +twice as wide as the width of the finished bag, plus sewing allowances +on all four sides. + +To hang comfortably from the shoulder a length of about 1 m looks good, +and if you're using narrow fabric (~80 cm) using the full width is +convenient. + +Instructions by Hand +-------------------- + +.. figure:: 0101-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down all four edges of the fabric by the sewing allowance twice to +form a hem, sew with a running stitch. + +.. tip:: for thick fabric that does not unravel folding the edge just + once may be enough. + +.. figure:: 0102-center_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Using either a strong thread or up to four strands of regular sewing +thread, waxed, whipstitch together two long edges for 3/8 of the length +from each end, leaving a slit in the middle that is 1/4 of the full +length. + +.. figure:: 0103-end_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the fabric so that the long seam + slit is in the middle, and +whipstitch closed the short edges. + +Instructions by Machine +----------------------- + +.. tip:: + + If using coated, water repellent fabric, you want to minimize holes, + so use a longer stitch than usual (e.g. 3 mm) and avoid using pins as + much as possible, only using them in the sewing allowances. + + Do however backstitch at the start and end of all seams, for + stability. + + Binder clips are useful to keep things in place without making holes, + even if they can't do miracles on extra slippery fabric like + silnylon. + +Right sides together, align the long sides of the fabric and sew with a +double sewing allowance 3/8 of the length from each side, leaving a slit +in the middle. + +Fold down all four edges of the fabric by the sewing allowance twice to +form an hem, topstitch. + +Wrong sides together, flatten the tube so that the seam is in the middle +of one side, sew the short ends at a bit less than one sewing allowance +from the raw edge. + +Turn inside out, right sides together, and sew again the short ends at a +bit more than the sewing allowance from the last seam to form a french +seam. + +Turn inside out so that the wrong sides are inside and the bag is +finished. + +See also +-------- + +For some historically researched examples, see: + +* `Carrysack from Martebo + <https://albrechts.se/carrysack-from-martebo/>`_ by Johan Käll +* `The sack from Martebo + <https://indemejarecristi.wordpress.com/2014/06/13/the-sack-from-martebo/>`_ + by Maria of In deme jare Cristi +* `Historical Sew Monthly 2017: #2 Re-make + <https://blackcatsews.blogspot.com/2017/02/historical-sew-monthly-2017-2-re-make.html>`_ + by Miriam / Blackcatsews diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/index.rst b/source/accessories/cases/index.rst index e0b7efc..94a2022 100644 --- a/source/accessories/cases/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/cases/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ knitting_needles_roll/index neoprene_laptop_sleeve/index + parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5eea13 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020102-half_pockets.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020102-half_pockets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e1138bc 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100644 index 0000000..8944d51 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,319 @@ +Parallelepipedal Zippered Pouch +=============================== + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: closed_pouch.jpg + :align: center + +This is a semi-rigid rectangular pouch suitable as a carrying case for +handheld devices, but also as a pencil case or packing cube. + +View A has padding (or rigid plates) at the top and bottom, view B uses +a padded lining to also give some protection to the sides. + +Materials +--------- + +The amounts of materials needed depend on the size of the pouch: smaller +sizes will probably come out easily from leftovers from other projects, +but print out the pattern to be sure of the amounts needed before buying +new fabric. + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +For both views: + +* sturdy outer fabric: canvas, cordura; +* optional: mesh or lining fabric for the pockets; +* optional: fabric for piping: similar to the lining fabric for view A; + +for view A: + +* lining fabric: plain cotton print, ripstop, lighter cordura; +* padding material: thick interfacing; + +for view B: + +* padded lining: 2-3 mm thick neoprene or 3d mesh. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* a zipper as long as piece C in the pattern; +* bias tape or other lightweight binding for the raw edges; +* piping cord; +* optional: elastic binding for the mesh pockets; +* optional: 2.5 cm wide webbing; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Get the valentina pattern :download:`zippered_pouch.val` and enter the +measurements in the Variables Table. + +You have to set the following increments for the *inner* size of the pouch: + +``#inner_x`` + the width, i.e. the lenght of the side where the hinge will be; +``#inner_y`` + the lenght, i.e. the other side of the top; +``#inner_z`` + the height or thickness, i.e. the side that is partially taken by the + zipper; + +and the other increments: + +``#ease`` + amount of ease added twice to each measurements to get the outer + measurements: if you're using a thick lining make sure to provite for + it in here; +``#zipper`` + the width of zipper that will be visible in the final pouch: teeth + plus a bit of fabric on each side; +``#sewing_allowance`` + the sewing allowance you want to use. + +For convenience, these are some pre-configured patterns, as a printable +PDF or valentina layout: + +* 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm :download:`20x20.pdf` + :download:`20x20_layout.vlt`; +* 10 cm × 10 cm × 1.5 cm, using just the zipper for the sides + :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`: requires a piece + of zipper 32.5 cm long; +* to measure as a carrying case for the Pyra_ handheld + :download:`pyra_case.pdf` :download:`pyra_case_layout.vlt`. + +.. _Pyra: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DragonBox_Pyra + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 of piece A, 1 of piece B and 1 of piece C from the outer fabric. + +For view A also cut the same pieces from the lining, and 2 of piece A1 +from the interfacing. + +For view B cut 2 of piece A, 1 of piece B1 and 1 of piece C1 from the +lining. + +Also cut all pieces for the pockets. + +Lining preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Sew all internal structure to the lining pieces A + +Half or 4/5 pockets +""""""""""""""""""" + +For each 4/5 or half pocket you want to add, cut one of piece D1 or D2 +respectively in netting or pocketing. + +.. figure:: 020101-bound_mesh.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the top edge of the piece. + +.. figure:: 020102-half_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Put the piece on top of a lining face, wrong side of the piece on the +right side of the face piece, and machine baste around the border, in +the sewing allowance, backstitching over the bound edges. + +Optionally sew vertical lines to divide the pocket, starting from the +bound edge and backstitching over it. + +Treat as one with the face lining piece. + +Zippered pockets +"""""""""""""""" + +For each zippered pocket you want to add, cut one of piece A in netting +or pocketing. + +Put a zipper, as long as the width of the pouch, at about 3/4 of the +height of the piece, wrong side of the zipper on the right side of the +piece. Sew near the zipper teeth. + +Carefully cut the piece below the zipper, fold the allowances out, and +topstitch again with a zig-zag stitch over the zipper tape, catching the +allowances. + +Put the piece on top of a lining face, wrong side of the piece on the +right side of the face piece, and machine baste around the border, in +the sewing allowance. + +Treat as one with the face lining piece. + +Outer faces +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 030101-webbing.jpg + :align: center + +Cut strips of webbing that are as long as the width of the pouch, put +them at one webbing width of distance from each other and sew every 4 cm +to make a MOLLE-compatible pattern. + +view A +"""""" + +Put piece A lining with the wrong side up, then piece A1 padding and +piece A fabric with the right side up, machine baste all around the +edges in the sewing allowances. + +Treat as one. + +view B +"""""" + +.. figure:: 030301-pieces_a.jpg + :align: center + +Put piece A fabric on piece A padded lining, wrong sides together, +machine baste all around the edges in the sewing allowances. + +Treat as one. + +Sides +^^^^^ + +View A +"""""" + +Sandwich the zipper between piece C fabric and lining, right sides +together, making sure to align the allowance in such a way that when the +seam is folded back the resulting piece will be as tall as piece B. + +Sew the long seam, press it so that the wrong sides of fabric and lining +touch each other, and the zipper comes out of the fold. + +Machine baste the free edges of the fabric and lining together, treat as +one. + +If the zipper has free ends, finish it on both ends with a metal stopper +or by sewing a few times over the teeth. + +Sandwich the side between the pieces B of the fabric and lining, right +sides together, sew. + +Roll up the side so that the other short edge is aligned with the short +edges of the hinge, still right sides together, sew. + +Turn inside out pressing all of the allowances towards the hinge. + +View B +"""""" + +.. figure:: 040201-bound_padded_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the top edge of piece C1 padded lining and the side edges of piece +B1 padded lining. + +.. figure:: 040202-sewn_zipper_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Put the zipper on piece C fabric, right sides together, sew with the +right allowance so that when the seam is folded open the resulting piece +will be as tall as piece B. + +Press the seam with both allowances towards the fabric. + +.. figure:: 040203-sewn_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the padded lining on top of the fabric, wrong sides together, so +that the bottom edge is aligned; pin it to the allowances, open the seam +and sew the lining to just the allowances of the fabric and zipper. + +.. figure:: 040204-sides.jpg + :align: center + +Put the lining back wrong sides together with the fabric, machine baste +the free edges and treat as one. + +If the zipper has free ends, finish it on both ends with a metal stopper +or by sewing a few times over the teeth. + +.. figure:: 040205-hinge_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on piece B fabric, right sides together, sew one short +edge, then align the other one and sew that too. + +Press the allowances towards the hinge. + +.. figure:: 040206-complete_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Put the padded hinge over the hinge, wrong sides together, and sew it to +the allowances on both sides. + +.. figure:: 040207-sides_as_one.jpg + :align: center + +Machine baste the top and bottom of the hinge, and treat the full sides +as one. + +Piping +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 050101-piping.jpg + :align: center + +Prepare two strips of piping and baste them to the top and bottom of the +sides, putting the joins close to the seams of the hinge. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 060101-sewing_top_face.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top face inside the sides, near the +zipper, carefully sew all around. You may want to sew part of the front, +cut the thread, move the zipper sliders out of the way and sew the rest +of the seam. + +.. tip:: when sewing keep the face on top and the sides at the bottom, + and ease the excess fabric rather than having to pull on + +Put the other top face right sides together inside the sides, making +sure that the zipper is at least partially open, sew all around. + +Fully open the zipper, turn inside out and check that all seams are ok. + +.. figure:: 060102-binding.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out again, sew binding on the remaining raw edges. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: media_pouch_closed.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of this pouch, with no piping and too wide of an + hinge. The 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm pattern is a fixed version of this. + +.. figure:: media_pouch_open.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of this pouch, open, showing spaces for two hard + disks and a zippered pocket for cables. + +See Also +-------- + diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..578b36f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6a3d43 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg diff --git 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a/source/accessories/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ bags/index cases/index + hats/index diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index 4d09b45..588c511 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ publisher = {London, J. Williamson}, year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/", - note = "", + note = "See also https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_cutters\%27_practical_guide_to_the_cutting_of_ladies\%27_garments for plates 2 and 3, missing on the archive.org copy.", } @Book{1909:american @@ -22,3 +22,19 @@ year = {1897}, url = "https://archive.org/details/superlativesyste00ston", } + +@Book{1904:blair + author = {Margaret J. Blair}, + title = {System of Sewing and Garment Drafting}, + publisher = {Webb Publishing Co.}, + year = {1904}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/margaretjblairss00blai", +} + +@Book{1897:blair + author = {Margaret Blair}, + title = {System of Garment Drafting}, + publisher = {H. L. Collins Company}, + year = {1897}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/margaretblairsys00blai", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib b/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..104459e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +@misc{2019:freesewing + author = {FreeSewing community}, + title = {FreeSewing}, + year = {2019}, + url = "https://freesewing.org/", + note = "Parametric design sewing patterns under the CC-BY license", +} + +@misc{2022:mlemweb + author = {Morgan Lemmer-Webber}, + title = {}, + year = {2022}, + url = "https://mlemmer.org/tag/freesoftwear.html", + note = "FreeSoftWear patterns by Morgan Lemmer-Webber, co-host of FOSS and Crafts", +} + diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst index fd75ae4..8287367 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/index.rst +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -19,3 +19,12 @@ Websites .. bibliography:: web.bib :all: + +FreeSoftWear +============ + +Other places that publish textile craft patterns under a Free Culture +license. + +.. bibliography:: free_soft_wear.bib + :all: diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 93489b1..07c6b3e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -13,6 +13,14 @@ year = {1840}, url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog", } +@Book{1838:workwoman + author = {Workwoman}, + title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing…}, + publisher = {}, + year = {1838}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00hale", + note = {See also https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog for another scan of the same book.}, +} @Book{1896:elements author = {Davis, Jeanette E}, title = {The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker : being also a handbook for the use of students and for candidates preparing for the examinations in dressmaking under the City and Guilds of London Institute}, @@ -68,3 +76,11 @@ year = {1905}, url = "https://archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt", } + +@Book{2018:friendship + author = {Elizabeth Friendship}, + title = {Making Working Women's Costume}, + publisher = {Crowood Press }, + year = {2018}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL27803094M/", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/unused.bib b/source/bibliography/unused.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..34e0b38 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/unused.bib @@ -0,0 +1,15 @@ +@Book{1898:artistic + author = {Vienna ladies' tailoring institute}, + title = {Artistic ladies tailor system}, + publisher = {Hollinger Corp.}, + year = {1898}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/artisticladiest00vien/", +} + +@Book{1902:artistic + author = {Vienna ladies' tailoring institute}, + title = {Artistic ladies tailor system}, + publisher = {New York, Vienna ladies' tailoring institute}, + year = {1902}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/artisticladiest00vien/", +} diff --git a/source/bibliography/web.bib b/source/bibliography/web.bib index 5ca93ae..6278ee5 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/web.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/web.bib @@ -5,4 +5,11 @@ url = "https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/womens-tie-pockets", note = "Accessed 2022-04-18", } +@misc{2010:combinations + author = {FIDM Museum}, + title = {Combination undergarments}, + year = {2010}, + url = "https://fidmmuseum.org/2010/10/combination-undergarments.html", + note = "Accessed 2023-05-05", +} diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index 60da271..aab3748 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -76,6 +76,7 @@ latex_elements = { vmargin={2.5cm,2.5cm}, ''', 'fncychap': r'\usepackage[Rejne]{fncychap}', + 'figure_align': 'H', } # Options for extensions @@ -84,4 +85,6 @@ bibtex_bibfiles = [ "bibliography/drafting.bib", "bibliography/misc.bib", "bibliography/web.bib", + "bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib", + "bibliography/unused.bib", ] diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst index 1e14d37..467b982 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,5 @@ century) blocks for people without breasts. .. toctree:: :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + + trousers/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..051e2f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..463128d --- /dev/null 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Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans Block</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="basic seam allowance" formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + <increment description="whether the pattern should be easy fitting, 1 or 0 (fractional values will give a result between close and easy fitting" formula="1" name="#easy_fitting"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#waist_ease"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#floor_to_hem"/> + <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/> + <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/> + <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/> + <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/> + <increment formula="8" name="#coin_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#coin_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="14" name="#fly_piece_length"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/> + <increment 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after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="276" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="277" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups> + <group id="82" name="back_before_crutch_ease" tool="74" visible="false"> + <item tool="50"/> + <item tool="56"/> + <item tool="57"/> + <item tool="68"/> + <item tool="69"/> + <item tool="70"/> + <item tool="71"/> + <item tool="63"/> + </group> + <group id="110" name="back" visible="true"> + <item tool="51"/> + <item tool="52"/> + <item tool="58"/> + <item tool="59"/> + <item tool="60"/> + <item tool="61"/> + <item tool="62"/> + <item object="76" tool="74"/> + <item object="81" tool="74"/> + <item tool="86"/> + <item tool="85"/> + <item tool="55"/> + <item tool="104"/> + <item object="79" tool="74"/> + <item object="77" tool="74"/> + <item object="80" tool="74"/> + <item object="78" tool="74"/> + <item tool="49"/> + <item tool="48"/> + <item tool="54"/> + <item tool="218"/> + <item tool="222"/> + <item tool="223"/> + <item tool="221"/> + <item tool="224"/> + <item tool="220"/> + <item tool="217"/> + <item tool="219"/> + <item tool="253"/> + </group> + <group id="111" name="front" visible="true"> + <item tool="9"/> + <item tool="15"/> + <item tool="16"/> + <item tool="17"/> + <item tool="18"/> + <item tool="19"/> + <item tool="13"/> + <item tool="14"/> + <item tool="24"/> + <item tool="67"/> + <item tool="65"/> + <item tool="66"/> + <item tool="7"/> + </group> + <group id="146" name="fly_piece" visible="false"> + <item tool="130"/> + <item tool="131"/> + <item tool="132"/> + <item tool="133"/> + <item tool="142"/> + <item tool="143"/> + <item tool="240"/> + <item tool="242"/> + <item tool="241"/> + </group> + <group id="155" name="pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="150"/> + <item tool="151"/> + <item tool="152"/> + <item tool="154"/> + <item tool="153"/> + <item tool="115"/> + <item tool="118"/> + <item tool="117"/> + <item tool="112"/> + <item tool="113"/> + <item tool="116"/> + </group> + </groups> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad028ea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,456 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + +.. figure:: trousers_front.jpg + :align: center + +Classic 5 pockets jeans with a zippered front. + +This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical +pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be +shortened to above the knee for the summer. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; * 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won't show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``waist_natural_circ`` (O03) + circumference of the trousers waist, about 5 cm below the waist; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the seat; +``rise_length_side_sitting`` (N04) + body rise, sitting on a stool; +``leg_crotch_to_floor`` (M01) + from crotch level to the floor, between the legs; + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible +and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and +``jeans_bottom_width``. + +``seam_allowance`` + this is the total sewing allowance, and should be big enough for flat + felled seams; e.g. 2 cm; +``easy_fitting`` + set this to 1 to make the pattern easy fitting, to 0 for a tigher + fit; +``waist_ease`` + e.g. 2 cm; with prominent (and squishy) bellies it's better to add + no waist ease; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 20 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes; +``floor_to_hem`` + distance from the floor to the desired hem of the trousers, e.g. 6 + cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; +``fly_piece_length`` + how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as + to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; +``waistband_height`` + e.g. 4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric. +Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly pieces +the folded fabric. +Cut either the straight or the shaped fly pieces from the scraps. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + Sewing the fronts first and then the backs will get rid of most + tricky bits sooner rather than later. + + If you prefer to start with an easier part, you can follow the + instructions in the :ref:`basic_jeans_back` section, and then return here to + prepare the fronts. + +.. figure:: 0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the curved edges of the side pieces with bias tape. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg + + If the fabric isn't very thick, you can also cut the side pieces with + 1 cm of allowance on the curved edge and press it towards the back + once instead of binding it. + + +.. figure:: 0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put it on the second pocket bag pieces, wrong side over the right side, +and sew down the curved edge 2 mm from the edge and then again in the +ditch of the bias tape. +Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from +the edge. Treat them as one piece. + + +.. figure:: 0102a-coin_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold all the edges of the coin pocket towards the wrong side once, fold the +top edge a second time. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 +cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0102b-coin_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the coin pocket on top of the side piece and pocket, centered on the +side piece and about 4 cm down from the top edge; sew around the sides +and bottom edge at 2 mm and then again at 1 cm from the edges, adding +small triangles to the top corners for strength. + + +.. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put the first pocket bag pieces on the fronts, right sides together, sew +the opening. + +.. figure:: 0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press open, notch the allowances and press the pocket +towards the wrong side of the front, making the fabric overlab a tiny +bit so that the pocketing won't show on the front. +Topstitch at 2 mm and 8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0105-pocket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the lower, curved edge of the pocket with a french seam: put the +pocket bag pieces with the *outer* sides facing and sew 8 mm from the +edge. + +.. figure:: 0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg + :align: center + +Press, notch the curves, turn the pocket bags so that the inner sides +are facing, sew 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0107-basted_fronts.jpg + :align: center + +Align the end of the front opening to the marks on the pocket facings +and baste the pockets to the fronts at the top and side; from now on treat +them as one piece. + +Placket +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric +once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong +side. + +.. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the +fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it +extends from the front. Press in half, and press the remaining +allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket. + +.. figure:: 0203-center_front_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the rest of the front seam, starting from the +notch and keeping the placket away from the seam, press open. + +.. figure:: 0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowances of the legs at the notch, check that all placket +pieces can move to the inside. + +.. figure:: 0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance of the left leg of the front seam, press and flat +fell towards the left leg. + +.. note:: + + This seam is done with the allowances on the inside rather than + outside like the other flat felled seams; doing otherwise would + result in a bit of unfinished allowance at the front. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the bottom of the placket extension at half +the sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_extension_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out and topstitch the placket extension close to the +vertical seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-placket_inside.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down by 1 cm the raw edges of the placket facing (or bind them with +tape), topstitch it down close to all 3 edges of the facing. + +If adding buttons, you can now sew the bottom of the placket close by +topstitching from the front, but if adding a zipper wait until later. + +.. _basic_jeans_back: + +Back +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-back_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the edges of the back pocket once, and the top edge twice, +press. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch the back pockets to the backs where marked on the pattern, +using two lines of stitching at 2 mm and 1 cm from the edge, and sewing +little triangles near the top for reinforcement. + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the back yokes to the backs, press open. + +.. figure:: 0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the yoke allowances and press up and fold the back allowances to +fell them, topstitch at about 8 mm from the seam. + +.. figure:: 0305-sewn_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the center back seam; + +.. figure:: 0306-felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +fell and topstitch it towards the right side. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-sewn_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the inseam. Press open, press towards the back +to flat fell and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0403-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right seams together, sew the side seams. Bind the edges together with +tape, press towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +If desired, top stitch the allowance of the side seam at 1 cm from the +seam. + +.. tip:: + + If using lighter fabric or making shorts you can also flat fell the + side seams; topstitching throught the tube of the legs can however + turn out to be either annoying or outright difficult, and I wouldn't + even attempt it with denim or similar heavyweight fabric. + + If you're not sure, binding the edges with tape and *then* + topstitching is safer than flat felling, as this way you can easily + unpick the (partial) topstitching seam if it gets too hard to sew, + and the edges will be already finished and on the right side. + +Waistband +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-waistband_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the waistband to the trousers, leaving 2 cm at +each end. + +.. figure:: 0502-waistband_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband right sides together, sew the sides, clip the +corners, turn inside out and press. + +Press the remaining edge of the waistband down 2 cm, press the waistband +in half so that it encloses all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0504-waistband_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +With a 3-step zig-zag, sew 8 cm of elastic centered on each side seam +and pulled over 10 cm of the raw edges. + +Topstitch the waistband closed at 2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four +edges, pulling while sewing over the elastic. + +Front closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + This isn't the traditional way to put a zipper in the front of jeans, + and it's a bit less neat; however it works just as well, the non-neat + parts are hidden from view when the trousers are worn, and it makes + it way more easy to change the zipper when it breaks, as it only + requires unpicking the zipper seams and a bit of whipstitching. + +.. figure:: 0601-left_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Center the closed zipper on the placket extension, taking care that it +doesn't extend to the visible part of the front. Machine sew the left +part of the zipper close to its border and then again closer to the +teeth, using a zipper foot and moving the cursor out of the way with the +needle in the fabric while close to it.. + +.. figure:: 0602-pinned_placket.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0603-right_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Close the zipper again, pin the trousers closed and sew the right side +of the zipper to the placket facing by hand with two lines of +backstitch, taking care to only catch the facing and not the fabric on +the front. + +.. figure:: 0604-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Whipstitch the bottom of the placket closed. + +Attach a button centered above the placket on the waistband and sew the +corresponding buttonhole on the other end of the waistband, above the +part with the facing. + +Hems +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of each leg twice 1 cm, topstitch at 2 mm and again at +8 mm from the folded edge. + +Belt Loops +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-loops.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps, cut 6 rectangles 8 cm long and 3 cm wide; fold them +approximately in thirds, press and sew a wide zig zag through the whole +length. + +.. figure:: 0802-loops_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0803-loops_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top and bottom edges a bit less than 1 cm and topstitch +the loops to the trousers, backstitching back and forth, around the +waistband e.g. at 4 cm from the center back, 6 cm from the side seams +(towards the back) and 8 cm from the center front. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: trousers_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df7d5db --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="41"/> + <m name="across_back_half_b" value="20"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="102"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="98"/> + <m name="waist_natural_circ" value="96"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="99"/> + <m name="neck_circ" value="46"/> + <m name="shoulder_length" value="15"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="67"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="84"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="54"/> + <m name="arm_neck_back_to_wrist_bent" value="82"/> + <m name="height_waist_side" value="108"/> + <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="26"/> + <m name="leg_crotch_to_floor" value="76"/> + <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="18"/> + <m name="arm_above_elbow_circ" value="32"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_bust_b" value="24"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..57a784b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5b3467 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7adc8b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Trousers +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + basic_jeans/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2716b1d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +************* + Accessories +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + slippers/index + open_heeled_slippers/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b15ae3b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c514847 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4495748 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad6a840 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bbf54d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e16f0c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6221ada --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6839628 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit @@ -0,0 +1,25 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer>25 cm</customer> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="foot_width" value="10"/> + <m name="foot_length" value="25"/> + <m name="foot_circ" value="23"/> + <m name="foot_instep_circ" value="26"/> + <m name="height_knee" value="42"/> + <m name="height_calf" value="27"/> + <m name="height_ankle_high" value="8"/> + <m name="height_ankle" value="7"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0e6ad4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,170 @@ +Open Heeled Slippers +==================== + +.. figure:: open_heeled_slippers.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +A simple pair of open heeled fabric slippers with a padded sole. + +As a small project with fiddly curves they are especially suitable for +handsewing, but can of course also be sewn almost completely by machine. + +This is an open heeled variant of :doc:`../slippers/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~25 cm canvas or other fabric; +* ~25 cm cotton batting or other padding material (optional). + +For the main fabric, cotton or linen canvas is a pretty standard choice; +towelling materials can also be used, or fleece for a pair of winter +slippers. + +For padding you can use cotton batting or even a few layers of scrap fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* strong thread (e.g. thick waxed linen) to attach the soles to the + slippers; +* 1-3 m cotton yarn for cording; +* two soles or sole material that can be cut in the shape provided. + +My fiber craft patterns site has `instructions for braided twine soles +<https://fiber-patterns.trueelena.org/feet/braided_twine_soles/index.html>`_ +that can be used for fabric slippers. + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern: :download:`open_heeled_slipper.val`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``foot_width`` (E01) + at the widest part of the foot; +``foot_length`` (E03) + from the back of the heel to the tip of the toes; +``foot_circ`` (E03) + around the widest part of the foot. + +The file :download:`foot.vit` has the required measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +The following variables can be adjusted, but have sensible default +values. + +``upper_length`` + from the point of the toe to the center front end of the uppers: + default is half the length of the foot; +``upper_length_sides`` + from the point of the toe to the center front point at the level + where the uppers end at the sides: default is 4 cm more than the + upper_length; +``sewing_allowance`` + basic sewing allowance: 1 cm is a good choice, but if you're using + thicker padding materials or more heel layers you may have to + increase it to 2 cm to be able to wrap it around. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two soles and optionally two or more heels (depending on the height +desired) from padding material, with no sewing allowance. + +Cut two soles and four uppers from the fabric. + +Uppers +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-sewing_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Put two of the uppers on top of each other, right sides together. Sew a +couple of mm outside from the seam line (to leave room for the cording). + +.. figure:: 0102-pressed_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording.jpg + :align: center + + +Put a length of cording near the seam, carefully sew as close as +possible to the cording with a running stitch; + +.. figure:: 0104-more_cording.jpg + :align: center + +optionally repeat one or +two more times. + +.. figure:: 0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg + :align: center + +Align the uppers to the notches of the sole, sew all around the upper +with a backstitch. + +Padding +^^^^^^^ + +Baste the optional heel padding on top of the padding. + +.. figure:: 0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the sole of the slippers on top of the padding, clip / notch the +allowances and sew them to the padding with a herringbone stitch or a +whipstitch. + +.. note:: + even if sewing most of the slippers by machine you will have to do + this step by hand. + +Sole +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-sewing_sole.jpg + :align: center + +Using strong waxed thread, sew the sole to the assembled slipper with a +blanket stitch. + +.. note:: + If using rubber soles you will have to glue them to the slippers + instead. Use a glue suitable for rubber and follow the instructions + on the package. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: top_and_sole.jpg + :align: center + + The top and sole of a slippers made from old jeans with a braided + rope sole. + +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f57a0f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val @@ -0,0 +1,188 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Open Heeled Slipper</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="foot.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="foot_length / 2" name="#upper_length"/> + <increment formula="#upper_length + 4" name="#upper_length_sides"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="sandal"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.47625" 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%wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="optional padding, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="sole, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="8" mx="-55.9921" my="416.868" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="32" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="36" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="20" passmark="false" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="tMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="107" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="108" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="126" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node 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hideMainPath="false" id="68" inLayout="false" mx="9.97897" my="2.55276" name="heel" uuid="{06595a17-cd64-4395-8f0c-25b858e7b462}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="-34.5858" my="766.956" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="optional padding, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-10.7433" my="889.575" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2.5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="76" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="66" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="92" mx="16.5606" my="1.8819" name="uppers" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{6a81c422-29b6-481f-86e0-8f81d1f5ce76}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="C" mx="-211.263" my="258.383" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="45.3" my="266.255" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="94" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="93" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0.25" idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="116" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="117" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="119" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0.25" idObject="90" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="91" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>93</record> + <record>94</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slippers.jpg 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<body-measurements> + <m name="foot_width" value="10"/> + <m name="foot_length" value="25"/> + <m name="foot_circ" value="23"/> + <m name="foot_instep_circ" value="26"/> + <m name="height_knee" value="42"/> + <m name="height_calf" value="27"/> + <m name="height_ankle_high" value="8"/> + <m name="height_ankle" value="7"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..862f3d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers_top_and_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers_top_and_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a23990f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/hiking_slippers_top_and_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c400af3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,232 @@ +Slippers +======== + +.. figure:: fabric_slippers.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +A simple pair of fabric slippers with a padded sole. + +Depending on the materials used, especially that of the sole, these can +be suitable for either indoors or outdoors wear. + +As a small project with fiddly curves they are especially suitable for +handsewing, but can of course also be sewn almost completely by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~25 cm canvas or other fabric; +* ~25 cm cotton batting or other padding material (optional). + +As the fabric, cotton or linen canvas is a pretty standard choice; +toweling materials can also be used, or fleece for a pair of winter +slippers. + +For a more technical look, you can use mesh for the uppers and back; in +that case the sole lining will have to be different, a fast drying but +confortable material like polycotton is a good choice. + +For padding, cotton batting or even a few layers of scrap fabric are a +good fit for fabric slippers; for technical ones you can use EVA foam or +a similar material. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* strong thread (e.g. thick waxed linen) to attach the soles to the + slippers; +* 1-3 m cotton yarn for cording; +* two soles or sole material that can be cut in the shape provided. + +My fiber craft patterns site has `instructions for braided twine soles +<https://fiber-patterns.trueelena.org/feet/braided_twine_soles/index.html>`_ +that can be used for fabric slippers. + +For technical slippers you can use rubber sole sold in sheet; note that +in that case the padding material will have to be suitable for glueing +the sole to it. + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern: :download:`slipper.val`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``foot_width`` (E01) + at the widest part of the foot; +``foot_lenght`` (E03) + from the back of the heel to the tip of the toes; +``foot_circ`` (E03) + around the widest part of the foot. + +The file :download:`foot.vit` has the required measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +``upper_length`` + from the point of the toe to the end of the uppers: default is half + the length of the foot; +``back_height`` + height of the heel guard at the back; +``sides_height`` + height of the heel guard at the sides' +``sewing_allowance`` + basic sewing allowance: 1 cm is a good choice, but if you're using + thicker padding materials or more heel layers you may have to + increase it to 2 cm to be able to wrap it around. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two soles and optionally two or more heels (depending on the height +desired) from padding material. + +From the fabric cut two soles, two uppers and two backs, the latter two +by placing the small sewing allowance on a fold of the fabric; +for even more precision cut a longer piece of fabric, sew the cording +and then cut away the eccess with more precision. + +Note that the allowance given is for one line of cording and needs to be +increased if you want to add more. + +Cording +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-back_side_seams.jpg + :align: center + + This picture was taken from an early pair of slippers with a straight + back, sorry. New pictures will be taken if I make another pair with + the current pattern. + +Fold the back right sides together, sew the short side seams, clip the +corners and turn inside out. + + +.. figure:: 0202-cord_in_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0203-cording_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Put a lenght of cording in the fold of the uppers, carefully sew as +close as possible to the cording with a running stitch; optionally +repeat with two or three total lines of cording. + + +.. figure:: 0204-cording_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put a length of cording in the fold of the back so that it fills the top +snugly, carefully sew as close as possible to the cording with a running +stitch. Here one line of cording is usually enough. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0204-loop.jpg + :align: center + + If you want you can add a loop to the back to be able to hang the + slippers; cut some narrow tape twice as high as the center of the + back (including allowances) plus 2-3 cm, fold it in half and sew it + while cording the back, as well as to the allowances. + +Uppers and Backs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-sewing_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Align the uppers to the notches of the sole, sew all around the upper +with a backstitch. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Also align the backs to the remaining part of the sole, sew all around +with a backstitch. + +.. figure:: 0303-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, whipstitch the side edges of the back to the fold +of the uppers. + +.. note:: + if sewing by machine, align the sides of the back to the fold of the + uppers, side by side, and sew from the top with a zig-zag. + +Padding +^^^^^^^ + +Baste the optional heel padding on top of the padding. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewing_padding.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the sole of the slippers on top of the padding, clip / notch the +allowances and sew them to the padding with a herringbone stitch. + +.. note:: + even if sewing most of the slippers by machine you will have to do + this step by hand. + +Sole +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_sole.jpg + :align: center + +Using strong thread, sew the sole to the assembled slipper with a blanket +stitch. + +.. note:: + If using rubber soles you will have to glue them to the slippers + instead. Use a glue suitable for rubber and follow the instructions + on the package. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: fabric_slippers_top_and_sole.jpg + :align: center + + The top and sole of white linen slippers with a braided rope sole. + +.. figure:: hiking_slippers_top_and_sole.jpg + :align: center + + The slippers made in technical materials: elastic mesh for the uppers + and back, polycotton for the soles, EVA foam for padding, round + elastic in the cording and vibram claw sole. + +.. figure:: hiking_slippers.jpg + :align: center + + The same slippers, seen from the top. + +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post on making a pair of linen slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/04-linen_slippers/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post on making a pair of hiking slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/05-hiking_slippers/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git 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length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="23" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="26" length="Line_A_A1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="27" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="27" id="28" length="(@head_circ_chin_to_crown - @head_ear_to_ear) / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" color="black" id="29" length1="8" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="2" point4="28" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" color="black" id="30" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="28" point4="26" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point 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idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="48" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="49" idObject="28" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="50" idObject="30" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="51" idObject="26" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="crown" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b16dac7c-6e27-4a68-8a18-3423c4d66a79}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="128.31" my="-197.083" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="6" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="126.203" my="-348.844" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="32" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="34" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="46" mx="0.0691619" my="0" name="visor" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{841e3a26-ff95-43e4-bfac-29f05a88cfee}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="366.394" my="408.284" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Interlining, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="195.663" my="408.284" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeArc"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="45" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="52" mx="0" my="0" name="ear_flap" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{824da3a4-1963-40d5-9cc5-56a9b38c4d54}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="521.114" my="-203.168" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="521.114" my="-348.606" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="47" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="48" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="50" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f382551 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.0.0a (https://valentinaproject.bitbucket.io/).--> + <version>0.5.0</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="head_circ" value="56"/> + <m description="From chin to crown of head back to chin, passing above ears." full_name="Head: Circumference around chin and crown" name="@head_circ_chin_to_crown" value="62"/> + <m description="From one ear to top of head to the other ear." full_name="Head: ear to ear" name="@head_ear_to_ear" value="32"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1acabe8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,161 @@ +Cap with ear flaps +================== + +.. figure:: + :align: center + +Materials +--------- + +* 20 cm outer fabric; +* 20 cm lining; +* 20 cm sturdy sew-in interfacing for the visor; +* 40 cm millinery wire for the visor; +* optional, 60 cm tape; +* sewing thread. + + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern: :download:`cap.val`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``head_circ`` + circumference of the head; +``head_circ_chin_to_crown`` + from chin to crown of head back to chin, passing above ears; +``head_ear_to_ear`` + From one ear to top of head to the other ear. + +The file :download:`head.vit` has the required measurements. + +You may also want to check the following increments: + +``visor_half_angle`` + how wide the visor should be, as an angle, halved; +``visor_depth`` + length of the visor in the front; +``ease`` + total ease around the head, to allow for the bulk of fabric; increase + to at least 2 cm for thicker fabric. + +The defaults should be otherwise fine. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as instructed on the pattern: + +* 6 head segments in both fabric and lining; +* 2 ear flaps in both fabric and lining; +* 2 visors in just fabric; +* 2 visors in interfacing, *without sewing allowance*. + +If the interfacing isn't very strong you may want to cut 4, with the +inner two a tiny bit smaller than the outer two. + +Visor +^^^^^ + +Put the the interfacing pieces on top of each other, sew some rows +parallel to the outer edge, to reinforce the visor. + +Cut a piece of millinery wire 4 cm shorter than the outer edge, +whipstitch it to the interfacing. + +Right sides together, put the fabric visor pieces on top of each other, +sew the outer edge. + +Turn inside out and press. + +Insert the interfacing in the visor. + +Optionally topstitch the visor near the seam, just inside the millinery +wire. + +.. note:: variant + + Instead of sewing the interfacing by machine and leaving it floating + in the visor, you can padstitch the interfacing to the bottom fabric. + +Ear Flaps +^^^^^^^^^ + +Put one ear flap lining on top of one ear flap fabric, right sides +together, sew all around the curved edge. + +.. note:: variant + + Put a 30 cm piece of ribbon inside the ear flap, so that it gets + caught in the seam at the tip. + +Trim and clip the allowance, press and turn inside out. + +Optionally topstitch at 1 mm from the edge. + +Crown +^^^^^ + +After sewing each seam in the crown, notch the curves and trim the +allowance near the tip before pressing the seam open. + +Put two fabric crown pieces on each other, right sides together, sew the right +hand seam starting from one sewing allowance from the top. + +Put a third fabric crown piece under the right side, right sides +together, sew the right hand seam making sure to start in the same +position as the previous seam. + +Repeat with all other fabric and lining pieces. + +Put the two halves of the fabric crown on each other, right sides +together, and sew the two remaining seams starting from the top and +going down to the edge. Repeat with the lining. + +.. tip:: doing this seam in one go, from edge to edge, may be tempting, + but will result in a less neat tip. + +After pressing the last two seams, if needed sew the very center closed +by hand on both the fabric and the lining. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Put the visor over the fabric crown, right sides together and centered +on one of the seams, sew but don't press the seam yet. + +Put the eae flaps over the fabric crown, right sides together, centered +on the first two segments after the visor, sew. + +Press all seams up, towards the inside of the cap. + +Press the allowance of the lining towards the wrong side, folding it 1-2 +mm larger than the allowance in the fabric. + +Wrong sides together, put the lining inside the cap and applique-stitch +it, catching just the allowance of the main fabric, so that the stitches +don't show outside. + +Optionally, put a self fabric covered button at the top of the cap to +hide the point where the seams meet. + +Variants +-------- + +Deerstalker Hat +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Reversible Hat +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..de1a82f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..81da39f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77c7c6b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eb8a329 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3def06c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45cef7f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..73a6e3e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..60e9481 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,116 @@ +Hood Scarf +========== + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +For all of your post-apocalyptic (or cosplaying) needs, a pattern for a +very simple hood-scarf. + +This is a zero-waste pattern, resulting in a square hood. + +It is a quick and easy project, suitable for handsewing even with the +limited kit you've been able to grab just before the Fall of +Civilization (finding the materials is left as an exercise to the +reader), but can also be mostly machine sewn. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of a light to mid weight fabric; wool, silk or linen are + good choices, on a scale from cold to warm weather. + +Two scarves of the same size, at least 30 cm wide and 120 cm long can +also be used: in this case there won't be a need to hem the long edges. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Sewing thread to match the fabric; +* optional: thicker thread to make a thread bar. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the scarf, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. + +Cut two rectangles of fabric as high as the measurement above plus 2-4 +cm for hemming allowance and using the full width of the fabric, +keeping the selvedges. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-top_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two pieces right sides together and sew one short edge with a +running backstitch (by hand) or by machine. Press open. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0102-curved_seam.jpg + :align: center + + Optionally you may want to curve down the seam a little towards the + back to avoid a sharp point. + +.. figure:: 0103-hemming_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the long sides: fold them down twice towards the wrong sides, sew +with a hemstitch by hand or topstitch by machine. + +.. figure:: 0104-whipstitching_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the scarf in half, right sides together; starting from the top +measure the width of the scarf and whipstitch the back seam for that +length. + +.. tip:: + + This last seam is easier to do by hand; if you want to use a machine + you may want to lay the two halves side by side and topstitch with a + zig-zag stitch, but the area near the top seam will be quite fussy. + +.. tip:: + + Before finishing this last seam with a knot check the hood for fit, + and if necessary adapt its length. + +.. figure:: 0105-thread_bar.jpg + :align: center + +Optional but recommended: a short distance from the end of the back +seam, make a thread bar between the two free sides to reinforce the weak +point at the end of the seam. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_back.jpg + :align: center + + The scarf worn as in the opening picture, seen from the back. + +.. figure:: masked_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + + To keep the scarf wrapped around the face like this I've used two pins at + around cheek height and one around shoulder height on my left (right + side of the picture). + +See Also +-------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f801227 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..06c2d6e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +********** + Headwear +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + cap_with_ear_flaps/index + hood_scarf/index + square_hood/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ab85cd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e1f46b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5883270 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbf3f7d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc7f2d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5847069 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed2aaf9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae2a6e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7414af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Square Hood +=========== + +.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the +finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely +different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow +fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). + +The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time +period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. +It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: +if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming +by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. + +It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, +and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of +coverage) and few tools. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width. + + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, +plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an +usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus +the same allowance. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a +running stitch. + +.. tip:: + + If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical + looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is. + +.. tip:: + + When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you + can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for + less bulk. + +.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides +together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long +piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. + +Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in +half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long +piece in such a way as to form a gore. + +.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square +to the long piece + +.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. + +.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the +long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood +and going up. + +.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, +and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above +the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. + +Variants +-------- + +Lined hood +^^^^^^^^^^ + +If your fabric requires, you can also line the hood: cut each piece +twice in both fabric and lining. + +On the outer fabric, press down all edges once by the hemming allowance, +mitering the corners. + +On the lining, press down all edges once by a couple mm more than the +hemming allowance, mitering again the corners. + +.. figure:: 0201-lined.jpg + :align: center + +Put the lining over the outer fabric, wrong sides together, and +hemstitch all sides. + +Continue with the assembly instructions above. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood + <https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_, + with pictures of the original and a reconstruction. diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28d4fae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst index a3bd070..a93ca88 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,8 @@ breasts. .. toctree:: :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + + headwear/index + tops/index + leisurewear/index + accessories/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0c4938 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +************* + Leisurewear +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + low_waste_bathrobe/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..973171d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a282ed9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..05abaa1 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Low Waste Bathrobe +================== + +.. figure:: bathrobe.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a simple bathrobe made out of fabric rectangles, shaped by a +single pleat in the center back and a self-fabric belt. + +It is a pretty quick project (making it took me about half a day), but +maybe not the best for beginner sewists, as inserting the sleeves can be +a bit fiddly. + +I'm calling it low waste rather than no-waste because folding up the +sleeves to make cuffs rather than cutting them down to the correct +length (and having a leftover) sounds like cheating (and the pleat in +the back is a *design choice*, but also a bit of cheating with regards +to fabric waste). + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 2 m of towel material (see the pattern below for precise amounts); +* 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding. + +The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all +directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky +to work with. + +Specifically, the sleeves and the end of the shoulder seam towards the +neckline will require an elastic fabric; if not using one you can add +small triangular gussets to ease the transition between the straight +lines. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee (or to where + you want the bathrobe to end); +``across_back_b`` (I08) + from armscye to armscye on the back; +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; +``shoulder_length`` (I01) + distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; +``armscye_circ`` (L19) + circumference around the armscye. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: bathrobe.svg + :align: center + +Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high +as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance. + +Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye +slits, half ``armscye_circ`` (L19) long. From each quarter point, +measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08) towards the center back, and +measure the position of the center back seam, which should be +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long. +Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to +the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the +seam. + +For the sleeves, measure two rectangles as tall as half the width of the +fabric and as high as ``armscye_circ`` (L19) plus 4 cm allowance. + +For the belt, measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the +fabric, and 10 cm long. + +Instructions +------------ + +When sewing it's important to use a stretch stitch to preserve the +elasticity of the fabric: if your machine has a lighting bolt stretch +stich you can use that, otherwise a narrow zig-zag (1.5 mm wide) will +do. + +Since all seams are fully enclosed (either french or flat-felled) a +serger is not required, and using one will require adjustment of the +pattern. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the rectangles described in the Pattern section; mark the position +of the armscye slits with a partial cut 5–10 cm long, but don't cut them +fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves. + +.. tip:: + + As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric, + don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces. + +From the jersey, cut cross-grain strips 4-5 cm wide for the binding; +with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough. + +Slits +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm +wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked +on the fabric, on the right side. + +.. figure:: 0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling +towards the corners. + +.. figure:: 0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Turn the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit +to keep it in place. + +Pleat +^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0202-basted_pleat.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat. + +Baste the pleat flat near the top border. + +.. figure:: 0204-hanging_loop.jpg + :align: center + +If you have scraps from straighening the fabric, cut a rectangle about 3 +cm wide and 10 cm long, fold in in 3 and sew it in the middle with a +wide zig-zag, otherwise you can use a bit of sturdy ribbon. + +Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats. + +Shoulders +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew +``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm +allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance +from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance. + +Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically. + +.. figure:: 0402-felled_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat +fell. + +Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body. + +.. figure:: 0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve +seam at the bottom of the slit. + +Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of +the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of +sewing for strenght. + +.. figure:: 0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish +the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-binding.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the +bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding +to the sleeve cuffs. + +Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch +it by hand or topstitch it from the right side. + +Belt +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-belt_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the belt in half lengthwise, sew at 1 cm from the side. + +.. figure:: 0602-belt_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out; if you're using the selvedge of the fabric there will +be no need to finish the ends. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: bathrobe_back.jpg + :align: center + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..213df9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +****** + Tops +****** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg 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a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd72625 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a552033 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,269 @@ +Low Waste Elastic Neck Top +========================== + +.. figure:: top_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a simple top made of rectangles with a gathered neckline (and +optionally cuffs) that can be optionally worn off-the shoulders. + +It's a pretty quick and easy project that can be sewn by hand or by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m lightweight shirt material (cotton, linen, viscose…). + +Because of the gathering, this pattern will require a pretty +lightweight, woven material. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* about 60 cm good looking elastic; +* sewing thread to match the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +After straightening the cuts, measure your fabric; you can draw the +pattern directly on the fabric, or make a scale drawing on paper first. + +The fit of this garment is given mostly by the gathering, so the pattern +dimensions don't have to be precise and depend mostly on the size of the +available fabric. + +.. figure:: top.svg + :align: center + +For fabric that is at least 140 cm wide, you can use the cutting scheme +in the image above. + +Measure the length of the sleeves, from the tip of the shoulder to the +wrist, following the bent arm. Add as much extra length you want and +measure this in the width of the fabric. +The remaining width of the fabric will be the width of the front and +back pieces: check that it is enough to go around the widest part of the +body (bust, waist/belly or hips) with at least 40 cm ease + +Divide the fabric on this measurement; divide the part with the front +and back pieces in two, of equal length. + +Measure around the top of the arm, add quite some ease, and make this +the width of the sleeve; for an average arm something like 50 cm are a +good starting measure, but feel free to go wider. + +From the remaining part of the fabric cut enough stripes for the casing +to go around the top of the body and the sleeves, 3 cm plus two sewing +allowances high, and two square gussets for the sleeves with a side +between 20 and 30 cm. +Finally cut four small square gussets for the neck, with a side of +around 4 – 5 cm, and cut them on the diagonal to make eight right +triangles. + +.. figure:: narrow_fabric.svg + :align: center + +For narrower fabric or bigger pieces you can cut the sleeves from the +full width of the fabric; the casing and the gussets can be cut from any +remaining width beside the front and back. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces taking care to follow the straight grain: depending on +the fabric you may rip it or pull out a thread and follow that. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-gusset_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, align one side of a gusset to the top of the +sleeve so that the gusset extends by one seam allowance, sew with a bit +less than half of the allowance. + +.. figure:: 0102-gusset_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the gusset to that it makes a right triangle under the arm, put it +on the other side of the sleeve, wrong sides together and sew with a bit +less than half of the allowance starting from the gusset and continuing +with the length of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: if sewing by machine you will want to stop at the point of the + gusset, and start again the sleeve seam (or the side seam below); you + may also want to stop a bit before the actual gusset point, and then + sew it close by hand, for the best accuracy. + +.. figure:: 0103-sleeve_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press, turn the sleeve inside out, with right sides together, and sew +again the same seams with a bit more than the allowance, starting with +one side of the gusset and continuing with the other side of the gusset +and down the length of the sleeve to make a french seam. + +Repeat for the other sleeve. + +.. tip:: if the pattern can only be matched between the gusset and the + sleeve on one side, make sure to do it symmetrically on the two + sleeves, so that the matching part can go on the front. + +Body +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the gusset part of the sleeve on the front body piece, wrong sides +together, so that the top of the body aligns with the seam between the +gusset and the sleeve. Sew the gusset to the front with a bit less than +the seam allowance. + +.. figure:: 0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back body piece wrong sides together over the remaining gusset +edge, again aligning the top of the body to the seam between gusset and +sleeve, and sew with a bit less than the seam allowance starting from +the gusset and then continuing sewing the back to the front down the +side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0203-side_french_seamed.jpg + :align: center + +Press, turn inside out, with right sides together, sew again the same +seams, first the gusset to the front, then the gusset to the back, +continuing down with the side seam, to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down and press the straight grain edges of a neck gusset, put it +over a corner between the body and the sleeve, wrong side of the gusset +on the right side of the garment; topstitch or applique stitch it down. + +.. figure:: 0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down and press the straight grain edges of another neck gusset, put +it wrong sides together over the gusset you've just applied and +hemstitch it down, covering the right edges of the garment. Leave the +bias edge free, as it will be covered by the casing. + +Repeat with the four other gussets. + +Casing +^^^^^^ + +Sew the stripes for the casing together into a long strip. + +.. figure:: 0301-casing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Hem one edge of the casing and put it right sides together on the top +edge, starting from the center front; sew all around until you almost +reach the center front, cut and hem the other end and finish sewing. + +.. tip:: if sewing by hand you can also start sewing the individual + strips to the body, joining them as needed just before you reach the + end of each piece. + This can be useful if you need to match a pattern. + +.. figure:: 0302-casing_finished.jpg + :align: center + + The casing over the front and back + +.. figure:: 0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg + :align: center + + The casing over the neck gussets and sleeves + +Press the casing up, fold it in half towards the back, press the raw +edge up and hemstitch it to the back, covering all raw edges. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-rolled_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the front and back twice towards the wrong side to +make a narrow hem, either topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, or +make a rolled hem by hand. + +Use the same technique to make a hem on the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0402-elastic_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of elastic as long as you want the (widest) neckline to be, +plus 40 cm; thread it through the casing, gathering the neckline, and +close it with a knot in the front. + +Variants +-------- + +Gathered cuffs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To make gathered cuffs, fold back the edges of the sleeves by 1 cm twice +towards the wrong side; hemstitch down to make a casing leaving 1.5 cm +not sewn. + +Cut enough elastic to go easily around the wrist plus allowance, thread +it into the casing, sew it into a loop and finally close the casing. + +This works best with sleeves that have been made extra long. + +Ruffle-look casing +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To add a small ruffle to the neckline, cut the casing strips a bit +higher, maybe 8-10 cm plus two sewing allowances. + +.. figure:: 0a01-casing_detail.jpg + :align: center + +Attach them to the top like in the instructions above, then sew a +straight running stitch just above the raw edges and another one 1 cm +above that, sew the casing edges together with an applique stitch +outside the part between the wto straight seams, and insert the elastic +between these two seams. + +Gallery +------- + +For reference, with a bust size of 84 cm, this top was made with fronts +and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm × 20 cm gussets. + +.. figure:: top_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: off_the_shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +And this version, worn by the same person, was made with fronts and +backs 86 cm × 72 cm, sleeves 60 cm × 57 cm and 30 cm × 30 cm gussets, +plus 10 strips to finish the neck and cuffs. + +.. figure:: 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type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>79</record> + <record>82</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="22.6009" my="0.267466" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{50f7801c-4597-4605-9d4d-9dfb02412386}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1388.38" my="555.992" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1373.22" my="262.832" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="81" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="80" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="69" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>80</record> + <record>81</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst index 3fc9e55..f9262dd 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst @@ -1,6 +1,9 @@ Aldrich Drafting System ======================= +Measurements +------------ + The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich <https://openlibrary.org/works/OL16995319W>`_, using @@ -54,3 +57,43 @@ to take these measurements on somebody. +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ | 20 | Sleeve length | L.01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +.. _aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans: + +Close fitting trouser/jeans block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 54, 55. + +* :download:`close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val` + + +.. _aldrich_block_basic_tee_shirt: + +Basic tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val` + +.. _aldrich_block_easy_fitting_tee_shirt: + +Easy fitting tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val` + +.. _aldrich_block_tracksuit_fleece_jacket: + +Tracksuit / fleece jacket block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`tracksuit_block.val` diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0935b63 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,206 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tracksuit, fleece jacket block</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company>Aldrich</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 3" name="#sleeve_length_jersey"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" 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type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>80</record> + <record>81</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..63c4d5d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +****************************************** + Contemporary Womenswear Drafting Methods +****************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + aldrich/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 437fa2e..34ee605 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,5 +9,7 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + tops/index trousers/index - measurements/index + underwear/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst deleted file mode 100644 index d79a963..0000000 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -******************************************* - Contemporary Womenswear Measurement Files -******************************************* - -.. toctree:: - :maxdepth: 2 - :caption: Contents: - - aldrich/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ef686d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c0fa1f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb6a109 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7209312 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a8c05a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..833c533 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e74f762 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7536bb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val @@ -0,0 +1,255 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Fitting jersey top, flat cutting. + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Fitting Jersey Top</patternName> + 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%pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1312.28" my="168.612" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="80" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="81" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="82" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>99</record> + <record>101</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="98" mx="24.3967" my="-7.50429" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{29930ecd-c8ec-4452-bc80-9b896a52beea}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1322.05" my="333.584" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1324.11" my="145.316" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="90" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="91" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="92" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="96" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c88fb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +Fitting jersey top +================== + +.. figure:: top.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of +long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric. + +Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern +is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight +merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something +like a cycling shirt. + +In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching +:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric +leftovers you can add a matching +:doc:`../../underwear/camisole/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m + for short sleeves. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G.04) + circumference around the bust. +``waist_circ`` (G.07) + circumference of the waist. +``hip_circ`` (G.09) + circumference of the hips. +``across_back_b`` (I.08) + width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G.02) + circumference at the base of the neck. +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15) + circumference of the wrist. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19) + length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + depth of the armscye. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01) + from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable: + +``finished_length`` + measured from the nape of the neck, on the back; +``short_sleeve_length`` + desired length of the short sleeve; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be +convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use +that to cut two sleeves flat. + +Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2 +cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give. + +.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the +shoulders. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using + a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on + the machine used. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + +.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the +back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will +get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch. + +.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances +so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight +stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the +tape. + +.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in +the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow +zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam. + +Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't +redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a +bit). + +Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges +and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch. + +Check again that the head passes through. + +.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards + ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side, + remembering to use an elastic stitch. + +.. tip:: + Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the + need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however + postpone the hand stitching until the end. + +.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the +center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams. +Press the seam towards the body. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards +the back. + +.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and +topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag +or a twin needle. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Variants +-------- + +Simpler hems and neckline +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline +finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the +wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7cdae76 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..01c3afa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +***************** + Tops and Shirts +***************** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + fitting_jersey_top/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ace4ee0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6f637b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3552ec3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0abcf07 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -0,0 +1,877 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="knee circumference: %finalMeasurement_knee_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="crutch ease: %finalMeasurement_crutch_ease% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#crutch_ease" name="crutch_ease"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_knee_width * 2" name="knee_circ"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_depth"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#waist_position"/> + <increment formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment formula="#jeans_bottom_width + 4" name="#jeans_knee_width"/> + <increment description="3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#hips_ease"/> + <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/> + <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/> + <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/> + <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/> + <increment formula="8" name="#coin_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#coin_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#back_pocket_point_depth"/> + <increment formula="0.5" name="#back_pocket_raster"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="jeans"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" 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tool="75"/> + <item tool="76"/> + <item tool="103"/> + </group> + <group id="201" name="fly_piece" visible="true"> + <item tool="140"/> + <item tool="141"/> + <item tool="142"/> + <item tool="363"/> + <item tool="364"/> + </group> + <group id="202" name="pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="130"/> + <item tool="131"/> + <item tool="132"/> + <item tool="133"/> + <item tool="134"/> + <item tool="135"/> + <item tool="136"/> + <item tool="137"/> + <item tool="138"/> + <item tool="139"/> + <item tool="148"/> + <item tool="150"/> + <item tool="158"/> + </group> + <group id="231" name="back_yoke" visible="false"> + <item tool="211"/> + <item tool="212"/> + <item tool="213"/> + <item tool="214"/> + <item tool="215"/> + <item object="217" tool="216"/> + <item object="218" tool="216"/> + <item tool="221"/> + <item tool="222"/> + <item tool="232"/> + </group> + <group id="283" name="back_pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="237"/> + <item tool="238"/> + <item tool="239"/> + <item tool="240"/> + <item tool="241"/> + <item tool="242"/> + <item tool="243"/> + <item tool="257"/> + </group> + <group id="293" name="curved_waistband" tool="284" visible="false"> + <item object="267" tool="266"/> + <item object="268" tool="266"/> + <item object="269" tool="266"/> + <item object="270" tool="266"/> + <item object="271" tool="266"/> + <item object="273" tool="272"/> + <item object="274" tool="272"/> + <item object="275" tool="272"/> + <item tool="276"/> + <item tool="277"/> + <item tool="278"/> + <item tool="279"/> + <item tool="280"/> + <item tool="281"/> + <item tool="282"/> + <item object="285" tool="284"/> + <item object="286" tool="284"/> + <item object="287" tool="284"/> + <item object="288" tool="284"/> + <item object="289" tool="284"/> + <item object="290" tool="284"/> + <item object="291" tool="284"/> + <item object="292" tool="284"/> + <item tool="294"/> + <item tool="295"/> + </group> + </groups> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e1e2bd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,210 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + + .. figure:: jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg + :align: center + +These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear +:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`, +drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on +the front. + +The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can +be adjusted to go to the natural waist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; +* 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won’t show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to + sit; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips; +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + vertical distance from Waist to Hip; +``rise_length_side`` (N08) + vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level; +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following +increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position`` +(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly +the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people +you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance`` +and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be +generally fine: + +``waistband_depth`` + height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm; +``waist_position`` + the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans: + the drafting system suggested 5 cm; +``waist_circ`` + the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to + ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide + as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle; +``jeans_knee_width`` + width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem, + but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite + narrow; +``front_curve_distance`` + 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise; +``back_curve_distance`` + 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise; +``crutch_ease`` + 5 or 6 cm; +``hips_ease`` + added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and +A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs. + +Instructions +------------ + +Follow the instructions for the +Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`. + +.. tip:: + + If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block + used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`, + as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the + measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the + jeans pattern. + +When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic +at the center back, just like the two on the side seams. +Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two +pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the +straight waistband, skipping the elastic. + +Variants +-------- + +Shaped Waistband +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a straight waistband shaped with elastic you can make a +shaped waistband: cut two of that part instead of the straight +waistband, and when you get to that stage do as follows. + +.. tip:: If you need to piece the waistband you can do it on the center + back, sew the two pieces wrong sides together and then flat fell the + seam. In that case make sure to flat fell the outer waistband and the + waistband facing in the opposite directions, to reduce bulk; you may + also want to flat fell the outer waistband in the same direction as + that of the back seam of the trousers, but this is just to make it + look nicer. + +.. figure:: 0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the outer waistband to the jeans, matching all +notches to the seam lines. Press the allowances up. + +.. tip:: To help with selecting the right piece: make sure that you're + sewing the widest side of the waistband, and that the side with the + straight bit goes where the placket extension is. Don't ask me how I + needed this :D + +.. figure:: 0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the waistband facing on the outer facing and +sew all 3 remaining edges. + +Press inside out; you may want to clip the corners, and if needed clip +and notch the curved edges, but don't trim the allowances, as they are +used to give more body to the waistband. + +.. figure:: 0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the remaining edge up, enclosing all allowances, and topstitch at +2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four edges. + +Gallery +------- + +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post about the drafting and wearable mockup of this pattern + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0afe62 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst index ffb0630..eec09f8 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,6 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + basic_jeans/index leggings_shorts/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index 531f9d1..3d8ed50 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ Pattern Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ -This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. You need to take the following measurements: @@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is the deepest. -the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. 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rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="98" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="99" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="100" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8aeae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ +Camisole +======== + +.. figure:: camisole.jpg + :align: center + +A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric. + +This is an excellent project to use leftovers. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity. + +You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very +narrow. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm underwear elastic +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + Depth of the armscye. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`camisole.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +``finished_length`` + lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual + camisole will be shorter). +``strap_width`` + width of the straps and of the binding for the back. +``seam_allowance`` + enought for flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given +for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric. + +Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear +elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding. + +.. tip:: + When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big + enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the + pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides + together and leaving the allowances on the outside. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a +narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges. +Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag. + +.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece, +pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag. + +.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic. + +.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams +with a narrow zig zag. + +.. tip:: + the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled + seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is + smoother. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back +and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a +narrow zig zag to fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the +side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the +binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating +part. + +.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag +that catches the raw edge. + +Gallery +------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8050f18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +************************* + Underwear and nightwear +************************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + camisole/index + liliana_nightgown/index + pajamas_set/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7532ee9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c29126 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe4a6d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97ad392 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3aea0eb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e89c0d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6751a0d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19fa22c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2155f02 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0398dfd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f64962e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..47bdac6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,219 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns +with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole +extended family. + +While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance +to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can +definitely be used as one. + +Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted +yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the +shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight +seams and just a few pleats for shaping. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton + or linen fabric. + +In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course +white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's +underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and +cheaper options are fine). + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if +used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1 +– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have +been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2 +– 2.5 mm hook. + +Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below): + for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is + recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the + sides. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom + it's completely made of empty squares. + +.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg + :align: center + + The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the + bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in + the middle of it. + +Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + + Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical, + and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the + back. + +.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the +center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points +of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides; +distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making +pleats that face towards the center back. + +Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker + yarn and the body in white ramie. diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2b221 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val @@ -0,0 +1,151 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Sleeping gown with crochet yoke + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Liliana Nightgown Yoke</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + 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</data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-172.04" my="645.679" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="133" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="134" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="139" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="66" passmark="false" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="two" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="140" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="141" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="152" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="153" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="154" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="155" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="156" 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b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,329 @@ +Pajamas set +=========== + +.. figure:: pajamas.jpg + :align: center + +These are relatively fitting jersey pajamas (the nightwear, not the +original Indian trousers) with a V neck and pointed details at the top +hem and long sleeves. + +There are options for long and short sleeves and trousers. + +It is a pretty simple pattern suitable for beginners, where the main +fiddly bit is the point of the V neck, and would be pretty fast to make +for an experienced sewist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Stretch fabric such as cotton jersey, from less than 1.5 m for short + sleeves / trousers up to 4 m for a full set (long + short tops and + trousers). + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* matching sewing thread; +* ~ 20 cm, 1.5 cm wide cotton tape for each top; +* enough elastic 2 cm wide to go around the waist for each bottom; +* optional: scraps of fusible interfacing; +* optional: fabric paint. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + Vertical distance from the waist to the hip, on the side. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L05) + Length of the arm +``height_waist_back`` (A.23) + From the waist to floor, on the back. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + From the waist to the hip, on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina files for the pattern, +:download:`pajamas_top.val` and :download:`pajamas_bottom.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +For both patterns: + +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm to allow for flat felled and / or french seams. + +For the pajamas top: + +``finished_length_side`` + finished length, without the point; +``bottom_point_length`` + length of the point at the center back and front; +``neck_dip_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckhole, in front; +``sleeve_length_jersey`` + 3 cm less than the regular length of the sleeve + (``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``) +``short_sleeve_length`` + to taste, somewhere in the middle of the biceps; +``sleeve_point_length`` + length of the point at the hem of the sleeve. + +For the pajamas bottom: + +``finished_length_long`` + finished length of the long trousers; +``finished_length_short`` + finished length of the short trousers; +``leg_hem_circ`` + circumference of the hem of each leg; +``back_rise`` + how much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve: the default + is calculated based on the difference between waist and hips; + +Instructions +------------ + +When not otherwise specified, all seams should be sewn with an elastic +stitch: either a lightning stitch (if available) or a very narrow +zig-zag. + +Top +^^^ + +Cut one of the front and back pieces, on the fold of fabric; cut two of +your chosen sleeve, also on the fold. The most efficient way is probably +to open the fabric flat, fold in just enough of each side to cut the +front and back, and then cut the sleeves from the remaining center part. + +.. tip:: + + if you plan to decorate your pajamas with fabric paint you may want + to do so at this stage, on the cut pieces, when you don't have to + deal with the rest of the garment. Since the pattern is designed with + a flat block, however, it's not a big deal to wait until it's fully + assembled. + +Also cut the neckhole binding: a cross-grain strip of fabric (along the +direction where it is most elastic), long enough to go around the +neckhole. + +Optionally, if making long sleeves, cut two of the sleeve facing, on the +fold. + +.. tip:: + + You can cut the neckhole binding and the sleeve facings in a + contrasting fabric. + +Cut two pieces of cotton tape as wide as the shoulder seam. + +.. figure:: 0101-shoulder_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the front over the back and align the tape so +that it just covers the shoulder seam line and sew with a straigth +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press everything towards the back and topstitch with a straigth stitch +near the other edge of the tape, enclosing all allowances. + +.. figure:: 0103-neck_binding.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding over the neck, starting from the +center back; sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0104-neck_binding_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press the binding up and fold it over the allowances, enclosing them; +herringbone stitch it by hand on the wrong side. + +.. note:: + + Alternatively you can let the binding overlap a bit over the seam on + the wrong side, and stitch in the ditch by machine. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0104a-neck_binding_v_point.jpg + :align: center + + to make a clean V point in the V neck, after the binding has been + sewn to the body fold it right sides together right at the point and + sew with a backstitch a line 1 cm long that is about 30° from the + fold. Then continue enclosing the allowances, taking care to arrange + it in such a way that it opens at the seam in the front, and the back + is still neat. + +.. figure:: 0105-sleeve_first.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the sleeves over the body, easing the +difference near the top of the sleeve, sew with a 8 mm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0106-sleeve_second.jpg + :align: center + +Turn it so that the right sides are together, sew again with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0107-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides facing, sew the side seams, starting from the sleeve and +going down to the hem, with a 8 mm allowance; turn everything so that +the right sides are facing and sew again with a 1 cm allowance to make a +french seam. + +.. figure:: 0108-sleeve_facing.jpg + :align: center + +If making a long sleeve, right sides together sew the short side of the +facing. + +.. figure:: 0109-sleeve_facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the facing on the sleeve, right sides together, and sew the end of +the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0110-sleeve_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining allowance of the facing towards the wrong side, fold +the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve in such a way that it +peeks out on the right side, and topstitch with an elastic stitch close +to the border and close to the fold. + +If making a short sleeve, fold its bottom edge twice and topstitch it +(ideally with a twin needle). + +.. figure:: 0112-mitering_bottom_first_fold.jpg + :align: center + +To miter the corners in the front and back of the hem, trim about 3 cm +from the point, perpendicularly to the vertical axis, fold the edge +close to the corner once towards the back by 2 cm. + +.. figure:: 0113-mitering_bottom_corner_fold.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the point down so that it will align to the point. + +.. figure:: 0114-mitering_bottom_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +And fold the edges again by 2 cm, making sure that the point is neat. + +.. figure:: 0115-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the rest of the bottom edge twice towards the back and topstitch it +(again ideally with a twin needle) to hem it. + +Bottom +^^^^^^ + +Cut two of the legs, marking the position of the pocket on the right +leg. Also cut one of the pocket. + +.. tip:: + + If the recipent is left-handed you may want to put the pocket on the + left leg. + +.. figure:: 0201-interfacing.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, put scraps of fusible interfacing on the right side of the +fabric right inside the top and bottom corners of the pocket. + +.. figure:: 0202-basted_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket by 1 cm (half the sewing allowance) +towards the wrong side, pin it, fold also all remaining edges by 1 cm +(full allowance) and baste in place. + +.. figure:: 0203-topstitched_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket a second time by 1 cm, topstitch at +8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0304-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the pocket over the right leg, in the position marked on the +pattern, topstitch in place. + +.. figure:: 0305-inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together sew the inseam with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside +out so that they are right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance +to make a french seam. In the next steps these allowances should go +towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0306-crotch_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides together, sew the crotch seam +with a 8 mm allowance, turn right sides together and sew with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0307-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem twice, topstitch (ideally with a twin needle) to hem. + +.. figure:: 0308-casing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top twice, so that the folded edge lies over the seam +line, topstitch (with a twin needle) to form a casing for the elastic, +leaving an opening in the center back. + +.. figure:: 0309-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Measure enough elastic to go snugly around the waist, insert it in the +casing, sew it in a circle and hemstitch the casing closed by hand. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg 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uuid="{cca4e04e-bb7f-4fd7-8762-a938221648ff}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="E" mx="1524.98" my="2089.1" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="1685.26" my="2088.54" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="115" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="114" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="108" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="109" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0" idObject="110" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="111" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="112" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>114</record> + <record>115</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6fe8221 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02295ea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2be7e5a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ded035 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e064323 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba9e55d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd96da5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce54f26 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index b594f29..997f9a8 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. -This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +This is a transitional pattern between the shirts completely made from rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the more structured shirts of the 20th century. @@ -222,8 +222,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double -seaming allowance. +lines on the front and back, and if you are sure about them cut them +with a double seaming allowance. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg :align: center @@ -510,7 +510,7 @@ hem stitch them down. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit -edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +edges are adjacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a hemstitch on the inside. @@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, -starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughly gathering the excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. @@ -642,7 +642,7 @@ towards the body. Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you - want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and + want to change it in the valentina pattern it's after point A and before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the @@ -670,6 +670,90 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket. Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the half dozen :) +Variants +-------- + +Flat front +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-cuts.jpg + :align: center + +To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_excess`` in the pattern and +as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. + +Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` +plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``: +this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a +front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below. + +.. figure:: 0802-ready.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong +side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the +left. + +Continue working the rest of the shirt. + +Horizontal Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These instructions are for a shirt with an horizontal opening at the +yoke, closed with snaps, rather than a slit; they have no basis on any +historical source, but are useful to make a shirt for modern wear with +fancy fabric manipulation on the front. + +Skip most of the instructions on preparing the front, sewing just the +two halves of the yoke pieces. + +.. figure:: 0901-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it +between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck. + +.. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Roll up the back burrito style between the yoke pieces, and right sides +together sew the front seams of the yoke. + +.. figure:: 0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of twill tape about 2.5 cm longer than the front seams of +the yoke, insert them in the seam you've just sewed and sew them to the +outer side of the yoke with a spaced backstitch. + +Sew the collar to the yoke as per the regular instructions, inserting +the excess of tape into the overlap of the collar. + +.. figure:: 0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar close, and cut a piece of twill tape as long as the front of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0905-snaps.jpg + :align: center + +Sew three snaps per side to the front of the yoke, over the +reinforcement tape, and to the tape you've just cut, making sure that +they are aligned. + +.. figure:: 0906-sewing_front.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top of the front, and gather or otherwise manipulate its width +into the length of the tape, making sure to leave space on the sides to +cut away the armscyes; hemstitch the tape to the front just below +the hem. + +Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the +sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular +instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4e364b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Bodices +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + peasant_bodice/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d867b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6d0242 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg diff --git 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Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0404278 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc530aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b26a373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Peasant Bodice +============== + +.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg + :align: center + +This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century; +since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for +more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen +in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from +various parts of Europe. + +I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly +on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a +parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, +starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to +have just one dart and of course a different neckline. + +This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to +reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as +costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. + +For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th +century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with +strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs +to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long +project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern +assembly method is also perfectly feasible. + +The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, +near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or +additional cording for more support. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m main fabric; +* less than 1 m lining fabric. + +The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable +enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording; + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`; +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`peasant_bodice.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``vest_length_in_front`` + vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for + the pointed variant; +``bust_to_neckline_front`` + vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front: + if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes + somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck; +``nape_to_neckline_back`` + vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the + neckline; +``shoulder_strap_width`` + width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough + to give a nice shape to the deep neckline; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist + line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value; +``distance_dart_center_front`` + horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good + value; +``ease`` + ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only + just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other + underwear; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the + side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg + :align: center + + instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping / +notching the curves. + +.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg + :align: center + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. + +.. + + Gallery + ------- + +See Also +-------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d61d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6580e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center 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my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="223" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="224" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="194" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="196" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="5" idObject="197" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="5" before="5" idObject="198" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="5" idObject="199" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="202" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="203" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="204" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="205" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="206" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="207" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="208" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="209" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="210" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="213"/> + <record path="219"/> + <record path="222"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>223</record> + <record>224</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..44b5eea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/> + <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/> + <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/> + <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/> + <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/> + <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/> + <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/> + <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/> + <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_knee" value="60"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4e54a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,76 @@ +Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. +========================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of +:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and +page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. + +.. figure:: measurements.png + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Blair's | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Drawers Length | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0e9ea9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4965a96 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="120"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="height_armpit" value="120"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="45"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="70"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="40"/> + <m name="armfold_to_armfold_bust" value="44"/> + <m name="neck_circ" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_armfold_front" value="30"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_bust_front" value="40"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front" value="41"/> + <m name="height_waist_front" value="100"/> + <m name="height_waist_side" value="102"/> + <m name="height_waist_back" value="105"/> + <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="30"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d6c88d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/foundation_skirt.val @@ -0,0 +1,216 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Foundation Skirt</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#placket_depth"/> + <increment formula="45" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/> + <increment formula="14" name="#pocket_width"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_front + 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="3" length="hip_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="5" 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type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="2" idObject="78" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.8095" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1826.44" my="1108.4" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1828.3" my="920.986" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..30831f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,126 @@ +The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments +============================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`. + +At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they +have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances +from Valentina used instead. + +All measurements have also been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book +itself. + +.. _cutters_jackets: + +Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3 + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle + +Skirts and Trousers +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Riding Habits etc. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +S. B. tight-fitting Jacket +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate +21. + +* :download:`ladies_jacket.val` + +Vest +^^^^ + +Page 21, diagram 29 to 34, plate 16. + +* basic block, for hooks and eyes :download:`vest.val` +* with buttonhole stand (single breasted) + :download:`vest_single_breasted.val` + +Skirt +^^^^^ + +Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. + +* :download:`foundation_skirt.val` diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7854452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val @@ -0,0 +1,521 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tight Fitting Ladies Jacket</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + 25" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#ease"/> + <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, button side" formula="4" name="#stand_width_buttons"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, buttonholes side" formula="2.5" name="#stand_width_holes"/> + <increment description="circumference of the sleeve at the elbow" formula="30" name="#sleeve_circ_elbow"/> + <increment formula="24" name="#sleeve_circ_wrist"/> + <increment formula="2" 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text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1283.03" my="545.506" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="170" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="171" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="172" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="173" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="174" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="175" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="176" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="177" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="178" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="179" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="180" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="181" type="NodePoint"/> + <node 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bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-1044.05" my="211.689" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="266" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="265" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="231" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="232" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="233" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="234" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="235" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="236" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="237" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="238" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="244" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="239" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="243" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="271"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>265</record> + <record>266</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="262" mx="2.57767" my="0.147135" name="under_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{ebbd3e7c-9d6f-48c8-abe5-ba108e213f39}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-994.115" my="1060.45" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-994.115" my="677.778" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="268" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="267" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="253" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="255" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="256" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="257" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="258" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="259" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="260" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="261" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="274"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>267</record> + <record>268</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b76bea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val @@ -0,0 +1,245 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/> + <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/> + <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="4" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="5" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="5" id="6" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aqqq" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="7" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" p1Line="4" p2Line="1" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="30" angle2="50" center="7" color="violet" id="8" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front / 2" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="-50" angle2="-50" center="6" color="violet" id="9" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 1.25" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="0" 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type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="14" id="17" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270 - 30" basePoint="4" id="18" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270 + 30" basePoint="12" id="19" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180 + 30" angle2="0" color="black" id="20" length1="4" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="19" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="- 30" color="black" id="21" length1="6" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="18" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" name="A1w" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" length="- (bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4)" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" name="A9qqq" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="25" id="26" length="across_chest_f / 2 - 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2q" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="90" center="26" color="cornflowerblue" id="27" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_armfold_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="135" center="25" color="cornflowerblue" id="28" penStyle="hair" radius="RadiusArc_A2q_27 + 2" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="27" id="29" mx="-1.36255" my="-2.001" name="AF" secondArc="28" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="30" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Afinger" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="120" center="30" color="cornflowerblue" id="31" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - RadiusArc_A1_8 - Line_A2q_Afinger" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="32" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 0.6" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="31" id="33" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" name="AD" secondArc="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point firstPoint="24" id="39" length="CurrentLength - waist_circ / 4 - #ease / 4" lineColor="cornflowerblue" mx="-6.06291" my="2.29511" name="Atotal_darts" secondPoint="38" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="38" id="40" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="41" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="41" id="42" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="42" id="43" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="45" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="41" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="42" id="46" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="45" curve="44" id="47" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="46" curve="44" id="50" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="53" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="47" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="46" id="54" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270 - 20" basePoint="24" id="55" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="38" id="56" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="57" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="43" p2Line1="56" p2Line2="54" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="58" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A23" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="42" p2Line1="56" p2Line2="54" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="59" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="41" p2Line1="56" p2Line2="53" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="60" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="40" p2Line1="56" p2Line2="53" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="61" length="CurrentLength - Line_A2_A3" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2a" showLabel="true" spline="15" type="cutSpline"/> + <point id="62" length="Line_A3_A9q" mx="-1.38708" my="0.562041" name="A9qa" showLabel="true" spline="16" type="cutSpline"/> + <line firstPoint="6" id="63" lineColor="black" secondPoint="10" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90 + 30" angle2="180" color="black" id="64" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="86" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="122" mx="0.864136" my="-1.90141" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="29" id="123" mx="-3.03296" my="-2.80074" name="A26" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="128" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="65" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="66" idObject="22" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="67" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" 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type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <spline id="129" idObject="128" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b1d0d5dd-475a-4f02-b7a1-7f5a4b496642}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="280.072" my="287.962" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="284.017" my="674.541" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="124" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="66" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>124</record> + <record>125</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="85" mx="0" my="0" name="back_skirt" seamAllowance="true" 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b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3321df0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val @@ -0,0 +1,266 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + 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aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="180" color="black" id="15" length1="2" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="16" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="12" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="14" id="17" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270 - #skirt_spring_angle" basePoint="4" id="18" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270 + #skirt_spring_angle" basePoint="12" id="19" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180 + 30" angle2="0" color="black" id="20" length1="4" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="19" 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type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="41" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="41" id="42" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="42" id="43" length="Line_A1w_Atotal_darts / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="45" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="41" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="42" id="46" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="45" curve="44" id="47" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="46" curve="44" id="50" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="53" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="47" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="46" id="54" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270 - 20" basePoint="24" id="55" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" 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visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <spline id="132" idObject="131" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="133" idObject="128" inUse="true" mx="1.66354" my="-0.202678" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="134" idObject="129" inUse="true" mx="0.964062" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="135" idObject="130" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="136" idObject="25" inUse="true" mx="-3.02343" my="0.696652" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="137" idObject="56" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="138" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="center_front" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="136" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="137" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <spline id="140" idObject="139" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b1d0d5dd-475a-4f02-b7a1-7f5a4b496642}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="280.072" my="287.962" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="284.017" my="674.541" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="124" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="66" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>124</record> + <record>125</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="85" mx="0" my="0" name="back_skirt" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{43c26b52-8a36-4d2c-91bd-000fbc2fb6dc}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="381.201" my="1620.16" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="566.601" my="1632" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="83" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="99" mx="0.10437" my="-0.10437" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{f1e881f0-b1ee-4701-90c9-c902a6b60ca6}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="1453.9" my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="132" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="89" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="133" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="134" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="135" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="140" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="112"/> + <record path="118"/> + <record path="121"/> + <record path="138"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>126</record> + <record>127</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97321bc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +**************************************** + Historical Womenswear Drafting Methods +**************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + blair/index + cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index d67d4c7..8f8ebe7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,4 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + bodices/index + underwear/index accessories/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val index c1e2e3f..c10a1da 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength=""> - <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> <version>0.9.0</version> <unit>cm</unit> <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> - <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements> + <measurements>../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit</measurements> <increments> <increment formula="3" name="#waistband_height"/> <increment formula="3" name="#placket_width"/> @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <node after="1" idObject="169" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="12"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="2"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-506.416" my="3129.19" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> @@ -322,12 +322,12 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, </nodes> </detail> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="190" inLayout="false" mx="0.183511" my="20.1862" name="facing_back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c902fb54-8e8b-410d-a464-2005c37fb46c}" version="2" width="2"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-2863.48" my="3146.41" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-3203.17" my="3128.24" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="facing %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3345.82" my="3155.02" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3636.51" my="3141.39" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node after="1" before="0" idObject="186" type="NodePoint"/> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 0ec412f..9c5908a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -55,6 +55,8 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -73,8 +75,8 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df3ae69 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>1838 drawers</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="half the width of the fabric for modern wide fabric, the full width for historical ones (should be around 80 cm)" formula="80" name="#fabric_width"/> + <increment formula="min(#fabric_width;hip_circ)" name="#total_width"/> + <increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/> + <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/> + <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/> + <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="drawers"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" lineColor="black" 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forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>33</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="31"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + </details> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..623dcc4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm + wide. + +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + +.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're + cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that +the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running +backstich. + +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of +the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. + +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, +sew with a hemming stitch. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the +short ends, press and turn inside out. + +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. + +.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center + of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness + is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the + body. + +Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big +needle or a pin. + +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends +by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter +points. + +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, +matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and +overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the +waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the +back. + +.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet + matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg, + or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13865/drawers-underpants-unknown/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git 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instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide or more for bigger sizes. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. + +Note that the measurements 2 and 3 given for the shoulder straps result +in straps that look narrower than the one in the technical image, so you +way want to add a cm or two to both of them. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. + +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just +the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. + +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric, +side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow. + +If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them +horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to +cut them vertically. + +Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and +bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. + +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. + +.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be + cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the + latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave + more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + +Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are +perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the +middle of the side seam, open it again. + +Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four +edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and +cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the +body. + +.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle + of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Gores +^^^^^ + +Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which +side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: + +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it +so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to +the gore from the wrong side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +seam. + +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + +Bosom Gores +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped +slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the +bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). + +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side +by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about +one allowance wide. + +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place +and applique-stitch from the right side + +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitch from the wrong side. + +Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the +wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. + +Gussets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + +Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, hemstitch. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. + +Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, +press. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and +applique stitch the folded edge. + +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + +Attaching the sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, +pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides +together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short +edges. + +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the +shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and +whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. + +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out. + +Hem +^^^ + +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. + +Variants +-------- + +Front Ruffle +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as +the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm +high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. + +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 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/dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b22ad2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11c8779 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,313 @@ +1904 Combination Suit +===================== + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a combination suit (chemise and drawers) based on +:cite:`1904:blair`, or the previous edition :cite:`1897:blair`, with +knee-length split drawers, no sleeves (but armhole flaps) and a round neck. + +It should be suitable for the whole period when combinations were in +use, in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2-3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* small buttons; +* optional but recommended lace. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/blair/index`; +see that page for the required measurements. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combination_suit.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``dart_distance`` + 2 cm up to a waist circumference of 65 cm, then add 1/8 of the + difference. +``dart_waist_down`` + length of the lower part of the darts. +``bust_ease`` + how much ease to leave at the bust: no more than 2 cm. +``front_facing`` + width of the facing on the front and crotch opening; enough to add + buttons and buttonholes, but note that it will have to go around a + tight curve, where a narrower facing will work easily. +``front_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the front. +``back_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the back. +``shoulder_overlap`` + how much the sleevelet should overlap at the shoulder: 1 cm for a + shoulder strap with buttons, a bit more if the shoulder strap is + closed. +``sleevelet_depth`` + widest part of the sleevelet. +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 fronts; if your fabric isn't especially wide you may need to cut +each individual front in the full width of the fabric, rather than +cutting two at a time on folded fabric; make sure to cut them so that +they are symmetrical. +Cut the back on the fold of the fabric. +Cut two of the sleevelets. + +.. note:: + The length of the legs on the pattern is the length of plain legs, + finished just with a hem. + + To add a ruffle or lace at the bottom, remove its height from the + bottom of the leg, to add pintucks add twice their depth to the + bottom of the leg. + + Or keep the leg as is, and make enough pintucks to precisely match + the height of the ruffle. + +Mark all darts. + +From the remaining fabric also cut enough bias strips, about 4 cm wide, +to face the neck and enough cross-grain strips, 3 times the width set in +the pattern as ``front_facing`` to face the front and the crotch +opening. + +.. note:: + It is important that the facing on the front is on the grain or + cross-grain, but not on the bias, as it will have to stabilize the + bias cut front for the buttons and buttonholes. + + If you want to make a shaped facing instead of a straight one, cut it + with the front part on the (cross-)grain. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 01-darts.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts in the front, press them towards the side. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_legs.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-hemstitching_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together sew the legs, press the seam open, trim the front +allowance, press the allowances towards the front, folding the back to +cover the raw edges and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 04-sewn_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the cross-grain facing to the front and +crotch, using the ``front_facing`` measurement for the allowance +(default is 1 cm). + +.. warning:: + The line on the pattern is not the seam line, but the *center line*, + and will have to lie halfway through the facing where the buttons + will be, allowing for the overlapping. + + +.. figure:: 05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it towards the inside, fold again to cover all raw edges, hemstitch +it down. + +.. figure:: 06-basted_gathering.jpg + :align: center + +Baste two lines of gathering stitches between the marks of the drawers' +back, at 18 and 22 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 07-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press the bottom edge of the back towards the wrong side, pin it to the +fronts in such a way that the side seam aligns with back seam of the +side dart and the two fronts overlap in the middle up to the mark +closest to the center back (between points C8 and A10). + +.. tip:: + In the overlap I'd put the left leg on top, closest to the fabric of + the back, and the right leg on the bottom, closest to the body, + unless making the combinations for somebody who is left-handed. + +Gather the excess of the fabric and hemstitch the back over them, +catching each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 08-finishing_back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance on the back, fold the allowance from the drawers over +it and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. tip:: + To reduce bulk, you can also trim both allowances and cover + everything with a band of fabric hemstitched to the inside to cover + them. + +.. figure:: 09-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the side seams continuing down into the side +darts, and the shoulder seams. + +Press open and then towards the back, trim the allowances of the back +until you reach the dart, flat fell the seam with a hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 12-sleevelet_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the straight edge of the sleevelets with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 13-sleevelet_attached.jpg + :align: center + + This picture and the next have been taken on the variant with + buttoned shoulders; with sewn shoulders it should be similar, but the + ends of the sleevelet would overlap by a few cm. + +Put the sleevelet over the armhole, right sides together, such that the +curved edge follows the line of the armhole, extending by 1 cm from the +allowance of the armhole, and in such a way that the ends overlap a bit +close to the shoulder seam and any fullness is gathered around the side +seam. Sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances open and then towards the body, fold the allowance +of the sleevelet to cover all raw edges and hemstitch down to fell the +seam. + +.. figure:: 15-neck_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing to the neck, press towards the +inside, fold to cover the raw edges and hemstitch down. + +.. figure:: 16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg + :align: center + + Here instead of a simple hem the edge has been folded up by 3 cm, + sewn at 1 cm from the fold, and then the raw edge has been folded + down 1 cm twice, to hide the raw edge and make a receiving tuck for + lace. + +Fold the leg hem up twice by 2 cm towards the wrong side, hemstitch it down for a plain finish, or add pintucks, ruffles and lace as desired. + +Starting from the top and going down to about the end of the darts or a +bit above it, make buttonholes every 4 cm on the right front and attach +corresponding buttons to the left front. + +Variants +-------- + +Buttoned shoulders +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To be able to wear these combinations under an evening dress it is +useful to be able to open the shoulder strap to move them out of the +way. + +To do so, add 5 mm to the allowances at the shoulder seams and instead +of sewing the fronts to the back finish each allowance by folding it +twice towards the wrong side 1 cm after the sleevelets have been added. + +Make two buttonholes on each front and add the corresponding buttons to +the back. + +Fullness instead of darts +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a fitted front with darts, the combination suit can be made +with fullness in the front, controlled with e.g. a drawstring or a +ribbon passed through beading lace at the waist. + +In that case, print piece C ``front_with_fullness`` instead of piece B +``front_with_gathers``, avoid sewing the darts (of course) and add a +mean to control the fullness to the waistline. + +Drawers +^^^^^^^ + +To make just a pair of drawers print piece C ``front_with_fullness``, +cut the drawers part 5 cm under the waistline, add a 5 cm waistband and +gather the legs to it. + +Knit fabric combinations +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: knit_combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +To make this a combination suit in knit fabric you can use the pattern piece +with darts, without sewing them, and sew the center front down to the +end of the darts rather than make buttons. + +Before finishing the neckhole check that it is wide enough to enter the +suit: if it isn't you may have to lower it, or to open a small length of +the center front and make buttons and buttonholes. + +Also make sure that the neckhole finishing maintains the required +elasticity. + +To give any kind of longevity to the garment you will have to use an +elastic stitch: since sewing it from flat knit fabric is not a common +historical construction method anyway I'd use modern stitches such as a +narrow zig-zag. + +You can also avoid the facings and simply fold the raw edges towards the +wrong side once and topstitch them down (a 3-steps zig zag stitch would +work nicely): the raw edge will remain visible, but protected. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center + +See also +-------- + +* `Fediverse thread on whether people would have sewn knit underwear at + home + <https://social.gl-como.it/display/3e3ce0df-2464-65d0-644b-412075423818>`_ + (I suspect not). diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e08e19 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg 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mode 100644 index 0000000..4e70e77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,422 @@ +Combinations Corset Cover and Petticoat +======================================= + +.. figure:: princess_petticoat_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This combinations corset cover and petticoat, or princess petticoat, is +suitable under the A-line skirts of the late Victorian and early +Edwardian eras. + +For historybounding it's of course also suitable as a sundress, and +would probably look nice in a 1970s does edwardian style. + +Since this is either underwear or modern clothing, I've given +instructions for flat felled seams that are topstitched by machine; of +course hemstitching the allowances by hand is always an option. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* optional but recommended lace; +* 8 small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index` +and you need to take the measurements listed in :ref:`cutters_jackets`. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``full_length`` + Length of the garment from the neck back, excluding the ruffle; +``shoulder_line`` + distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder; + the default is one sixth of the distance between the back of the neck + and the waist; +``waist_to_hips`` + standard taken from the book: if your distance is very different you + may want to use your measurement; +``ease`` + ease added to half of the bust circumference; +``waist_suppression`` + waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 + or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + how long the darts should continue down from the waist: about 20 to + 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is; +``stand_width`` + e.g. 2 cm; +``front_opening`` + calculated to reach halfway between the waist and the hips; +``hem_circumference`` + e.g. 2 m; +``ruffle_height`` + e.g. 20 cm; +``ruffle_density`` + e.g. 2.5, or 3 for a densely pleated ruffle; +``sleeve_ruffle_height`` + e.g. 5 cm; +``sleeve_ruffle_density`` + e.g. 1.5; +``neckline_depth_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front; +``neckline_width`` + full width of the neckline at the widest point; +``neckline_depth_back`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back; +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front panel on the fold, the rest of the panels twice; also cut +one each of the front facings, two sleeve ruffles and enough +selvege-to-selvege strips for the bottom ruffle. + +.. tip:: + + The length of the bottom ruffle in the pattern is just a suggestion; + using the closest multiple of the fabric width will reduce fabric + waste and allow you to use the selveges and avoid having to finish + the raw edges. + +Press carefully the crease in the front piece, to mark the line for the +opening, mark the triangle for the end of the opening, and also mark the +darts. + +Front Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-center_front_cut.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the center front until the *top* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0202-facings_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +With the right side of the facing on the wrong side of the front, pin +the longer facing to the *right* of the cut and the shorter one to the +*left*; sew with an allowance of half the placket width until the +*bottom* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0203-cut_triangle.jpg + :align: center + +Cut from the end of the center cut to the end of the seams, along the +triangle marking, taking care to just reach the seam, but not snip into +them. + +.. figure:: 0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg + :align: center + +Press the shorter facing towards the opening, press down its other edge +towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +.. figure:: 0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Press the facing in half and move it to the right side of the fabric so +that it just covers the seam. + +.. figure:: 0206-triangle_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the small triangle from the front fabric towards the right +side. + +.. figure:: 0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-triangle_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping just beyond the bottom of the +triangle, topstitch the lower edge catching the top of the triangle. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the longer facing: press it towards the opening, press down +its other edge towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +Press it in half and move it to the right side of the fabric, on top of +the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping at the same level where +you've stopped on the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0211-placket_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the bottom edge of the longer facing on top of the shorter +one, trim any excess or bulk and topstitch a square to keep it in place +and finish all raw edges. + +.. tip:: this is a pretty basic finish for the end of the button + placket, of course you can look for historical examples and go wide + with shaped edges. + +.. figure:: 0212-darts_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts and press them towards the sides. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, sew all vertical seams. Note that the curved seam +between the side back and back is quite fiddly and will require at the +very minimum the seam line to be marked and carefully pinned, or +possibly even basting. + +Also sew the shoulder seams. + +Try the combinations on to check the fitting before finishing the seams, +do any alternation that is required. + +Press the seams open and then to one side, either towards the center +front or the center back, trim the lower allowance, fold the top one to +cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +Ruffles +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hem_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Sew all hem ruffle strips together in a tube; if you can use the +selvedges simply press the seams open to minimize bulk, otherwise flat +fell the seams. + +Hem one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Sew also the sleeve ruffles in a tube, flat felling the seam, and hem +one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg + :align: center + +Gather or pleat the sleeve ruffles to the armscyes, sew with a double +allowance. + +.. note:: Take care to distribute the lenght of the ruffle uniformly + around the armscye, rather than just around the top of the sleeve as + it is usual, as the excess fabric around the armpit is useful to + protect the dress from sweat. This is of course less an issue if + making this as outerwear. + +.. figure:: 0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the body, trim the allowance of the body, +fold the ruffle on top to cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg + :align: center + +Press the hem of the petticoat towards the wrong side by 3 cm, sew at 1 +cm from the hem. + +.. figure:: 0407-receiving_tuck.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance down to make a receiving tuck, and then press the +raw edge inside the tuck. + +.. figure:: 0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the top of the tuck in the receiving tuck, quartering it to the +hem and pleating or gathering the excess fabric. + +.. figure:: 0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 5 mm from the hem to attach the ruffle and finish the tuck. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the neck with a narrow hem. + +Sew lace liberally and/or to taste. + +Add small buttons and buttonholes to the front. + +.. tip:: If adding lace to the neckline, make the first buttonhole a bit + below the lace, and use a snap to keep the top of the neckline + closed. + +Variants +-------- + +Corset Cover +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The same pattern can of course be used to make a regular corset cover: +either mark a length of 10 cm down from the waist, and cut all pieces at +that length, or cut all pieces at the waistline plus sewing allowance +and add a basque in one piece made by aligning all of the skirt pieces +and rounding the edges. + +The front facings will also have to be changed to be as long as the +front edge, and can be simply included in the front piece. + +Pocket Slits +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Since this kind of garment is likely to be made in lightweight fabric, +and it has no waist seam, adding pockets may not work very well, since +there is no structure to support the weight of the things one may want +to carry. + +Also, when using it as underwear pockets aren't really needed (since the +main garment already has them) and they may add unwanted bulk. + +Of course my solution to this isn't “no pockets” (perish the thought!), +but simple slits with modesty facings through which one can access a +:doc:`/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index`. + +I've placed these slits on the seam between the side and side back +panels rather than on the seams of the front piece for two reasons: one +is that this way the front of the skirt remains smoother, and the bulk +of the pockets can be where there is more fullness in the back; the +other one is that the seams of the front piece are the first ones that +are changed in case one needs to do small alterations to the fitting, +and leaving them clear makes it easier. + +For the facings, cut two rectangles of fabric, about 20 cm × 14 cm each. + +.. figure:: b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Fold them in half on the long side, right sides facing, and sew the +short sides with an allowance of 1 cm. +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: b02-facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the rectangles on the right side of the side back pieces, on the +straight grain edge, between the waist and the hips, and at half an +allowance from the edge of the fabric, sew with the regular seam +allowance. + +.. figure:: b03-facing_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the outside. + +.. figure:: b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on top of the side back pieces, right sides together, and +sew the seam stopping in such a way that just 1 cm at the top and bottom +of the facings is covered. + +.. figure:: b05-allowance_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press all allowances towards the side. + +.. figure:: b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowance of the side just outside the facings, fold it twice +and topstitch it down while keeping the facing out of the way. + +.. figure:: b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the allowance of the side backs over the allowance of the facing, +covering all raw edges, and topstitch it to the facing. + +.. figure:: b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the rest of the allowance of the side to half its width, cover +with the allowance of the side back and topstitch it as usual for a +flat-felled seam. + +Insertion Lace +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern is of course great for a liberal application of insertion +lace, which can happen in two ways. + +One is to prepare entire parts of the panels by sewing together lace, +and then cutting a smaller panel in fabric: this works great e.g. for +the yoke. + +Another one is to insert strips of lace by sewing them to the fabric and +then cutting away the fabric behind the lace; for lace that only covers +one of the panels this should be done before the combinations are sewn, +while for laces that go all around the circumference it's easier to +finish the garment first and then add the lace. + +A variant of the latter is to cut all around the finished garment and +then insert the lace: this wastes less fabric, but of course adds +length, so it's only recommended in the skirt part where it's easier to +compensate for it. It will also change the line of the skirt, but the +effect should only be noticeable with taller laces. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: princess_petticoat_back.jpg + :align: center + + +.. figure:: dress_front.jpg + :align: center + + A wool dress made from the same pattern. + +See also +-------- + +* `Blog post on my first make of this pattern + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/03/16-swiss-embroidery-princess-petticoat/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post of a make of this pattern as a wool dress + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/12/20-i_ve_been_influenced/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65a7373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg 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</pieces> + </sheet> + </sheets> +</layout> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ac14fc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,508 @@ +Single Layer Midbust Corset +=========================== + +.. figure:: corset_34_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, non specifically based on an +historical model, but with an outline that is generically suitable for +a good part of the Victorian age. + +It is a single layer with applied boning channels made of tape (or self +fabric): a channel on each seam is used to neaten and reinforce the +seam, so that it can be simply pressed flat for less bulk rather than +requiring more complex finishes. + +The instructions allow for boning channels on either the outside or the +inside of the corset, according to taste. + +Like all corsets, it's not really suitable for beginner sewists, but the +hardest part is taking good measurements, and then it requires more +precision than advanced skills, so an intermediate sewist would probably +be able to do it. + +The instructions assume that it will be sewn by machine: sewing it by +hand would be feasible, but possibly a bit hard on the hands because of +the use of sturdy fabric. Compared to other corset construction methods +this one may require sewing through less layers of coutil, especially if +using tape rather than self fabric for the boning channels. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* less than 1 m of strong corset fabric, e.g. coutil. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* strong sewing thread to match the fabric — a good brand of cotton + thread or sewing silk, linen if you're sewing by hand; +* boning: ~ 6 m 6 - 10 mm spiral steel and ~ 2 m 10 mm flat steel + (precise amounts will depend on the height of the corset and how many + boning pieces you want to add) — you can also substitute both with ~ + 8 m 6 - 10 mm synthetic whalebone; +* one steel busk to fit the center front height; +* ~ 6 m 25-30 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same + amount premade boning channel tape; +* ~ 1 m 15 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* ~ 3 m bias tape to match or contrast with the fabric, to bind the top + and bottom edge; +* ~ 30 two-parts metal eyelets; +* buttonhole twist silk for flossing, +* about 6 m lacing cord. + +For a double boning channel the tape should be at least double the width +of the boning plus 10 mm, for a single boning channel at least the width +of the boning plus 8 mm; tape that is a bit too wide is better than tape +that is too narrow. + +Pattern +------- + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern +file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These measurements should be taken while wearing just modern underwear +(including a well fitting bra); a tight camisole with side seams can +help to take the arc measurements, and it's helpful to mark at least the +waist, but ideally all of the circumferences with tape. + +Full circumferences: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Circumference around Bust; +``lowbust_circ`` (G05) + Circumference under the breasts; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Circumference around the Waist; +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + Circumference at the hip bone level; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Circumference around the widest part of the hips; + +The same measurements, just on the front, from an ideal side seam to an +ideal side seam: + +``bust_arc_f`` (G12) + ; +``lowbust_arc_f`` (G13) + ; +``waist_arc_f`` (G15) + ; +``highhip_arc_f`` (G16) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G17) + ; + +And the corresponding back arcs; in the valentina file these are +calculated from the two measurements above (but you may want to take +these measurements as a double check): + +``bust_arc_b`` (G28) + ; +``lowbust_arc_b`` (G29) + ; +``waist_arc_b`` (G31) + ; +``highhip_arc_b`` (G32) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G33) + ; + +Vertical measurements; except for the first one they are taken straight +in the front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the +levels where the above measurements had been taken: + +``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03) + this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and + should follow the curve of the body; +``bust_to_waist_f`` (H10) + ; +``lowbust_to_waist_f`` (H11) + ; +``waist_to_highhip_f`` (H30) + ; +``waist_to_hip_f`` (H31) + ; + +And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: + +``reduced_waist_circ`` + this depends on the squishyness and taste of the person: 2-4 cm less + than the natural waist is good if no waist reduction is desired (the + corset should fit snugly on the waist), but more is of course a valid + choice. + +.. tip:: A waist reduction of 2-4 cm should result in a corseted waist + (measured over the corset) that is about the same as the uncorseted + waist, making it easier to make clothing that can be worn either with + or without a corset, for maximum historybounding potential. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`midbust_corset.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables: + +``waist_to_top_f`` + from the waist to the top of the corset in the front: around the + measurement of ``bust_to_waist`` is usually good; +``waist_to_top_side`` + from the waist to the top of the corset under the armpit: this should + be less than ``armpit_to_waist_side``; +``waist_to_top_b`` + from the waist to the top of the corset on the back: often, but not + always, the same as ``waist_to_top_f``; +``waist_to_bottom_f`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center front; +``waist_to_bottom_side`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset on the side; +``waist_to_bottom_b`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center back: often, + but not always, the same as ``waist_to_bottom_f``; +``lacing_gap`` + usually 5 - 10 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + 2 cm will allow for easy adjustments of the pattern. + + +Instructions +------------ + +Mockup +^^^^^^ + +If this is the first time you're making a corset from this pattern it's +strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup from a sturdy but +cheap fabric: some cotton canvas or duck is often a good idea, but avoid +anything that is elastic. + +When cutting the panels mark the line of the waist in a way that will be +visible when trying on the mock-up. + +.. figure:: basted_busk.jpg + :align: center + +If this is also the first corset you're making you may want to use it as +practice to insert the busk, otherwise you can cheat and simply baste it +to the edge of the front panel with stripes of scrap fabric. + +Assemble the mock up following the instructions for the corset, keeping +the seam allowances towards the outside, but don't add a waist tape, nor +boning channels over the seams; for better results you may want to add a +boning channel to the middle of each panel (it can just be a strip of +scrap fabric). + +.. figure:: basted_lacing_stripes.jpg + :align: center + +It is also convenient to have a set of lacing stripes: two stripes +of sturdy fabric folded in half with a boning channel near the fold, a +line of closely spaced grommets and another boning channel, pre-laced +with cotton lace, to be basted to the folded back panels with a line of +stitching just outside the boning channel further from the folded edge. + +If you don't have one yet you can fully finish panel 6 with boning +channels and grommets, and then reuse it for your next corset. + +Once the mockup is assembled, try it on when standing up and check: + +* that the size is precisely correct; +* that the seams lie vertically on the body; +* that the waist line correspond to the position of your waist; +* that there are no significant wrinkles (you do need the corset to be + boned to be able to check this); + +then sit down and check that you're not being poked in the legs by the +busk or any other boning. + +If you find that you need to adjust the size, or the position of the +seam between panels 3 and 4, I'd recommend changing the measurements in +the valentina tape file, and generating a new pattern: this way the same +measurement file can be used again for different patterns. + +If you had to do significant changes you may now want to make a second +(and third, and…) mockup, or you can start cutting into the real fabric, +as the wide allowance will still allow for minor adjustments. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 each of +panels 1 left, right and right facing (both the center front and the +center back panels will have two layers, everything else will be single +layer). + +Note that, assuming that you're marking the fabric from the wrong side, +the pattern is for a corset with external boning channels: if making +internal boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0202-markings.jpg + :align: center + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. Optionally +mark also the center panel line (grainline) if you want to add boning on +it. + +I'd also recommend marking each panel with its number, whether it's the +right or left panel, and possibly the vertical direction to avoid +mistakes when assembling. + +Busk Insertion +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-marking_eyes.jpg + :align: center + +Put the eye side of the busk on the wrong side of panel 1 right, aligned +with the center front seam: the eyes that are set closer to each other +than the rest should be at the bottom; mark the position of each eye. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Put panel 1 right over panel 1 right facing, right sides together, and +sew the center front seam starting from the top and leaving a gap for +every eye. +Press flat, press with right sides out. + +Cut two pieces of waist tape as long as half the circumference of the +waist plus the (finished) width of panels 1 and 6 at the waist. + +.. figure:: 0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the eye side of the busk between the layers, making sure that the +eyes stick out of the openings, wrap one waist tape around it so that +the short end will reach just before the seam between panels 1 and 2, +and carefully pin everything in place. + +.. figure:: 0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch from the right side of the corset, using a zipper foot and +sewing as close as possible to the busk. + +.. figure:: 0305-marked_left_busk_position.jpg + :align: center + +Fold panel 1 left wrong sides together, align it carefully with the +assembled panel 1 right and mark the position where the eyes of the busk +are. + +.. figure:: 0306-awl_holes.jpg + :align: center + +With an awl open holes on each marked position, just as big as necessary +to let the studs of the busk pass through. + +.. figure:: 0307-inserting_left_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the stud side of the busk, wrap the other waist tape around it as +before and carefully pin in place. + +.. figure:: 0308-finished_front_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch also this panel from the right side of the corset, using a +zipper foot and sewing as close as possible to the busk. + +Panels +^^^^^^ + +Attach the panels to each other, starting from the just finished panel 1 +and panel 2, and continuing until panel 6. + +If you want your boning channels inside the corset put each panel on the +next right side together, if you are making external boning channels put +the panels wrong side together, so that the allowances will be on the +outside of the corset. + +.. figure:: 0401-basted_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Using relatively short (~ 1 cm) running stitches baste just outside of +the marked line; if you used tailor's tacks remove them so that they +won't get stuck in the seam. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewn_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Sew each seam, press open. + +Fitting +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-eyelet_strip.jpg + :align: center + +Fold panel 6, wrong sides together, so that the cut edge aligns with +the seam line with panel 5, press. Machine baste a premade eyelet strip. + +Ideally also baste premade boning channels in the middle of most panels, +and add some boning (temporary boning such as zip ties are fine). + +Try the corset on, check the fit and do any required last minute +adjustment. + +Unpick the eyelet strip and temporary boning channels. + +Boning Channels +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-pinned_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center front, sew a boning channel on each seam: trim +the sewing allowances so that they are narrower than the tape, center a +piece of tape on the seam so that it covers the waist tape precisely at +waist level, pin it, possibly baste it. + +.. figure:: 0602-sewn_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the boning channel *from the front of the corset* at 2 mm from each +edge and, if it is going to be a double channel, in the middle. +After sewing each channel test it with a piece of boning to check that +it fits; otherwise unpick it and sew it again. + +.. figure:: 0603-pinned_channel_and_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Before sewing the channel between panels 5 and 6 make sure to let the +waist tape reach to the fold in panel 6 and go back to the seam, leave +it pinned in place. + +.. note:: + + Sewing from the right side of the corset will result in a neater + seam; for internal boning channels aligning precisely the seam may be + a bit fiddly, and this is where basting will help, to have a precise + reference. + +.. figure:: 0604-eyelet_channels.jpg + :align: center + +On panel 6 also sew channels for the flat steels between the two layers +of coutil: sew a line 1-2 mm from the fold of the panel, and then 3 more +lines at a distance of 1 mm more than the width of the flat steel boning +from each other. + +.. figure:: 0605-extra_boning_channels.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, sew an additional boning channel to the middle of panels +2-5: pin the tape vertically in the middle of the panel and sew at 2 mm +from each side. + +Binding and Boning +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. tip:: + If you want to add loops for garter tabs, do it now by sewing them to + the bottom edge of the corset near the front, side and back. + +.. figure:: 0701-binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew bias tape to the bottom edge of the corset, +leaving an excess at the center front and back. + +.. figure:: 0702-closing_binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the inside, folding the excess so that all raw edges are +covered, and hemstitch it closed. + +.. figure:: 0703-measuring_boning.jpg + :align: center + +For each boning channel except those in panel 6, cut a piece of spiral +steel 2 cm shorter than the channel, + +.. figure:: 0704-end_caps.jpg + :align: center + +finish the ends with end caps + +.. figure:: 0705-boning_in_channel.jpg + :align: center + +and insert the boning in the channel. + +.. figure:: 0706-flat_steel_boning.jpg + :align: center + +For panel 6, cut pieces of flat steel boning 2 cm shorter than the +boning channels, sand the ends, wrap them in teflon tape or dip them in +plastic and insert them in the channels. + +Add binding also to the top edge, closing the channels: right sides +together, sew bias tape also to the top edge of the corset, being +careful not to sew over the boning; press it towards the back and +hemstitch it closed. + +Lacing holes +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-marked_lacing_holes.jpg + :align: center + +Starting at 1 cm on each side of the waist, mark the position for lacing +holes on panel 6 at a distance of 2 cm, reaching to the top and bottom +of the panel. + +.. figure:: 0802-using_awl.jpg + :align: center + +Open each hole with an awl, trying not to break the threads in the +fabric, + +.. figure:: 0803-metal_eyelet.jpg + :align: center + +and insert a metal eyelet. + +.. figure:: 0804-lacing.svg + :align: center + +Thread lacing cord through the eyelets: start with the center of the +cord at the top and thread the two ends alternating the sides making +sure that each X formed is either on the outside or the inside of the +corset; when you reach the waist make sure that you've just done an X on +the inside of the corset, skip a hole, thread each end of the cord in +the eyelet just below the waist from the inside to the outside, then in +the eyelet just above the waist on the same side, going from the outside +towards the inside and forming two loops, and then continue doing +regular Xs until the bottom of the corset. Close the lacing with a +sturdy knot and move all excess towards the loops at the waist. + +Flossing +^^^^^^^^ + +Using a strong thread such as silk buttonhole twist make a few +embroidery stitches at the ends of each spiral steel bone, going through +all layers of the corset, to keep it in place and prevent it from +rubbing on the fabric. + +This can be as simple and utilitarian as you'd like, but you can also +look at extant corsets for examples of decorative stitches. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: corset_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: corset_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccb1b45 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="80"/> + <m name="lowbust_circ" value="70"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="highhip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="bust_arc_f" value="42"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="36"/> + <m name="waist_arc_f" value="35"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="hip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="bust_arc_b" value="(bust_circ - bust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_b" value="(lowbust_circ - lowbust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="waist_arc_b" value="(waist_circ - waist_arc_f)"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_b" value="(highhip_circ - highhip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="hip_arc_b" value="(hip_circ - hip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="18"/> + <m name="lowbust_to_waist_f" value="13"/> + <m name="waist_to_highhip_f" value="10"/> + <m name="waist_to_hip_f" value="20"/> + <m description="Circumference around the waist with a confortable reduction." full_name="Reduced Waist circumference" name="@reduced_waist_circ" value="60"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa93ae6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -0,0 +1,619 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Midbust corset</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="bust_to_waist_f + 1" name="#waist_to_top_f"/> + <increment formula="min(armpit_to_waist_side - 4;#waist_to_top_f - 4)" name="#waist_to_top_side"/> + <increment formula="#waist_to_top_f" name="#waist_to_top_b"/> + <increment formula="(waist_to_highhip_f + waist_to_hip_f) * 0.4" name="#waist_to_bottom_f"/> + <increment formula="waist_to_highhip_f - 0.5" name="#waist_to_bottom_side"/> + <increment formula="#waist_to_bottom_f" name="#waist_to_bottom_b"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#lacing_gap"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="corset"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="-0.471952" my="-1.99686" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="bust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.877097" my="-2.09406" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="lowbust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="4" length="waist_to_hip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.4572" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="waist_to_highhip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.27306" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="6" length="lowbust_arc_f / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="7" length="CurrentLength/3 * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.346673" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="8" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="9" length="(lowbust_arc_b - #lacing_gap) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="10" 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my="36.1393" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="-607.244" my="-111.429" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="266" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="264" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="0" idObject="249" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="283" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="250" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="251" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="253" type="NodePoint"/> + 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The latest version of this document is published on https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/; a `pdf version -<https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/Valhallassewingpatterns.pdf>`_ +<https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/valhallassewingpatterns.pdf>`_ and an `epub version <https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/Valhallassewingpatterns.epub>`_ are also available; note however that this document is pretty image @@ -31,13 +31,39 @@ website source zip archive <https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/Valhallassewingpatterns.tar.xz>`_. There is also a `companion website for fiber craft patterns -<https://fiber-patterns.trueelena.org/>`_. +<https://fiber-patterns.trueelena.org/>`_ and `one for other crafts +<https://craft-patterns.trueelena.org/>`_. This document is generated with Sphinx_, and its sources are published on https://git.trueelena.org/crafts/sewing_patterns/. .. _Sphinx: https://www.sphinx-doc.org +Generating an rss of new pages with Sphinx doesn't seem to be (easily) +possible, but when new patterns are added or existing patterns receive +significant changes they are usually announced on `my blog`_, which of +course has an rss. + +.. _`my blog`: https://blog.trueelena.org + +.. raw:: html + + <p> + If you have questions or comments about anything in these patterns you + can contact me via email at patterns AT trueelena.org, or you can find + me on the fediverse + <a href="https://social.gl-como.it/profile/valhalla/" rel=me> + @valhalla@social.gl.como.it + </a> + </p> + +.. only:: not html + + If you have questions or comments about anything in these patterns you + can contact me via email at patterns AT trueelena.org, or you can find + me on the fediverse as `@valhalla@social.gl.como.it + <https://social.gl-como.it/profile/valhalla/>`_. + ------ These patterns are #FreeSoftWear. @@ -61,6 +87,7 @@ Creative Commons, PO Box 1866, Mountain View, CA 94042, USA. historical_womenswear/index historical_menswear/index accessories/index + patterns/index tips_tricks/index bibliography/index diff --git a/source/patterns/index.rst b/source/patterns/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2232e6c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +########################## + Patterns and Decorations +########################## + +These are decorative patterns that are relevant to sewing projects, +including embroidery, print or patchwork. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + patchwork/index diff --git a/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg b/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d3431f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg @@ -0,0 +1,480 @@ +<?xml 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including border pieces to get a +rectangular object: :download:`epp_hexagons.svg` + +And the corresponding cutting patter with half-inch allowance +:download:`epp_hexagons_cut.svg`; note that only the hexagons are +marked, and you would have to measure yourself the allowance on any +border piece. + +Squares +------- + +2.5 cm squares :download:`epp_squares_25mm.svg`, approximately matching +with the hexagons above. diff --git a/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst b/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a49dd6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,9 @@ +*********** + Patchwork +*********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + basics/index diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/basting/index.rst b/source/tips_tricks/basting/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8be8f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/tips_tricks/basting/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ +************** + Basting etc. +************** + +Structured Garments +=================== + +When working on structured garments you will often have to use multiple +lines of marking and basting, e.g. tailor's tacks to transfer the seam +lines, basting fabric, interlining and flatlining together, basting the +garment and only then finally sewing. + +My recommendation is to always baste the layers together exactly above +the taylor's tacks, since the tacks have been cut in small pieces and +are easy to remove anyway. + +Then you have to consider that when marking the seam lines with +tailor's tacks from the paper fabric you will usually be marking *just +outside* the pattern, so for maximum precision you should baste either +on the marking or just outside them, and then sew just inside the +marking, on the original seam lines. + +However, if you're using multiple layers of fabric, or thicker ones, you +can also decide to sew just outside the markings, as the millimiter or +so you're gaining will compensate for the thickness of the seams. In +this case, of course you will have to baste just inside the markings. diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/index.rst b/source/tips_tricks/index.rst index d5a2dbe..51c8975 100644 --- a/source/tips_tricks/index.rst +++ b/source/tips_tricks/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ handsewing/index machine_sewing/index + basting/index + miscellaneous/index diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0101-threaded_fish_tape.jpg b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0101-threaded_fish_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ec398a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0101-threaded_fish_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0102-elastic_in_loop.jpg b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0102-elastic_in_loop.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a6ab67 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0102-elastic_in_loop.jpg diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0103-pulling_elastic.jpg b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0103-pulling_elastic.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12ac9d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/0103-pulling_elastic.jpg diff --git a/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/index.rst b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89cc5aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/tips_tricks/miscellaneous/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,36 @@ +*************** + Miscellaneous +*************** + +Threading ribbon through a long casing with electrician fish tape +================================================================= + +A cheap nylon electrician fish tape (the kind sold without a spool) can +be useful to thread ribbon or elastic through a long casing, such as one +where a garment is gathered (e.g. at the neckline or waistline). + +Get the shortest length you can find (I'd recommend buying a new one +rather than trying to clean an used one which is more likely to stain +garments), and cut a lenght of about 2-3 m from one end: longer lenghts +are unwieldy and won't probably be needed for most garments. + +.. tip:: the remaining tape can be used e.g. as stiffening at the hem of a + skirt. + +.. figure:: 0101-threaded_fish_tape.jpg + :align: center + +To use, take the uncut end, with the metal loop and thread it through +the casing. + +.. figure:: 0102-elastic_in_loop.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the elastic or ribbon through the metal loop, leaving quite a +bit of overlap. + +.. figure:: 0103-pulling_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, pull the fish tape from the other side, threading the +elastic through the casing. |
