diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst | 43 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val | 326 |
2 files changed, 233 insertions, 136 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst index 894e6f2..ffbef5c 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -55,9 +55,52 @@ Instructions Cutting ^^^^^^^ +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the top lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyeles, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press towards the side. + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 4 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ Gallery ------- See Also -------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val index 3b76bea..b89415e 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -5,7 +5,10 @@ <unit>cm</unit> <description/> <notes/> - <patternLabel> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> @@ -13,15 +16,15 @@ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> - <measurements path="cutters.vit"/> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> <increments> - <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/> - <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/> - <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="2" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/> + <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/> <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> - <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/> <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> - <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> </increments> <previewCalculations/> <draw name="pattern"> @@ -38,15 +41,6 @@ <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <point firstPoint="4" id="13" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> - <point angle="270" basePoint="13" id="14" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <spline aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="180" color="black" id="15" length1="2" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="16" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="14" point4="12" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <point angle="270" basePoint="14" id="17" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <point angle="270 - 30" basePoint="4" id="18" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <point angle="270 + 30" basePoint="12" id="19" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <spline aScale="0" angle1="180 + 30" angle2="0" color="black" id="20" length1="4" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="19" point4="17" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="- 30" color="black" id="21" length1="6" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="18" type="simpleInteractive"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/> <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" name="A1w" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> @@ -62,106 +56,144 @@ <line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/> <point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> - 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