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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e46db4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,109 @@ +1838 Shift with Shoulder Straps +=============================== + +.. figure:: plate_6_fig_6.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_lenght + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Lenght of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would adapt them as follows: measure from the top of +the shoulder to where you want your neckline to be, somewhere around the +highbust, and use it to choose your size column for most other +measurements except for the lenght of sleeve-band, to be based on the +circumference of your upper arm plus 1 cm for ease, and the lenght of +plaited sleeve (i.e. the width of the sleeve), which should be about +twice the sleeve band. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The side gores should be somewhere between 10 and 15 cm wide at the top, +in such a way that the remaining fabric (including the bosom gores) is +enough to go around the bust with 10-20 cm of ease. + +There is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + + +Variants +-------- + + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="height_neck_back_to_knee" value="100"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="neck_side_to_highbust_f" value="20"/> + <m name="arm_above_elbow_circ" value="19"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/plate_6_fig_6.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c83fe17 --- /dev/null +++ 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