diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear')
83 files changed, 1273 insertions, 68 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4e364b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Bodices +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + peasant_bodice/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d867b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6d0242 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0201-dart_fabric.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0201-dart_fabric.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1ec159 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0201-dart_fabric.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0202-pressed_edges.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0202-pressed_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8458dfb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0202-pressed_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0203-first_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0203-first_cord.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e7b9518 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0203-first_cord.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aaeda36 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..39827da --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..43e9d51 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29361ad --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..70cb4db --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..83d55ea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fab99b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0501-sewing_back_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0501-sewing_back_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..88b1b87 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0501-sewing_back_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0404278 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc530aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b26a373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Peasant Bodice +============== + +.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg + :align: center + +This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century; +since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for +more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen +in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from +various parts of Europe. + +I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly +on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a +parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, +starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to +have just one dart and of course a different neckline. + +This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to +reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as +costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. + +For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th +century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with +strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs +to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long +project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern +assembly method is also perfectly feasible. + +The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, +near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or +additional cording for more support. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m main fabric; +* less than 1 m lining fabric. + +The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable +enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording; + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`; +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`peasant_bodice.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``vest_length_in_front`` + vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for + the pointed variant; +``bust_to_neckline_front`` + vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front: + if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes + somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck; +``nape_to_neckline_back`` + vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the + neckline; +``shoulder_strap_width`` + width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough + to give a nice shape to the deep neckline; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist + line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value; +``distance_dart_center_front`` + horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good + value; +``ease`` + ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only + just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other + underwear; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the + side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg + :align: center + + instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping / +notching the curves. + +.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg + :align: center + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. + +.. + + Gallery + ------- + +See Also +-------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d61d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6580e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="2" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/> + <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#distance_dart_center_front"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="4" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="5" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="5" id="6" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aqqq" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="7" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" p1Line="4" p2Line="1" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="30" angle2="50" center="7" color="violet" id="8" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front / 2" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="-50" angle2="-50" center="6" color="violet" id="9" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 1.25" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" name="A1w" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" length="- (bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4)" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" name="A9qqq" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="25" id="26" length="across_chest_f / 2 - 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2q" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="90" center="26" color="cornflowerblue" id="27" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_armfold_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="135" center="25" color="cornflowerblue" id="28" penStyle="hair" radius="RadiusArc_A2q_27 + 2" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="27" id="29" mx="-1.36255" my="-2.001" name="AF" secondArc="28" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="30" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Afinger" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="120" center="30" color="cornflowerblue" id="31" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - RadiusArc_A1_8 - Line_A2q_Afinger" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="32" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 0.6" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="31" id="33" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" name="AD" secondArc="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="38" id="56" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <line firstPoint="6" id="63" lineColor="black" secondPoint="10" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90 + 30" angle2="180" color="black" id="64" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="86" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="122" mx="0.864136" my="-1.90141" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="29" id="123" mx="-3.03296" my="-2.80074" name="A26" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="128" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="25" id="130" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="130" id="131" length="#distance_dart_center_front" lineColor="black" mx="-0.853087" my="-2.52626" name="A11" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="131" id="132" length="CurrentLength + Line_A10_A11 - (waist_circ + #ease) / 4 " lineColor="black" mx="-1.28296" my="-2.26834" name="A12" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="131" id="133" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.02504" my="0.568824" name="A13" secondPoint="132" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="133" curve="44" id="134" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="133" id="137" length="-#length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="134" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="130" id="138" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="0" color="black" id="139" length1="4" length2="waist_circ * 0.32" penStyle="hair" point1="138" point4="24" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <line firstPoint="132" id="143" lineColor="black" secondPoint="137" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="131" id="144" lineColor="black" secondPoint="137" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A11_A15" basePoint="137" curve="139" id="145" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A12_A15" basePoint="137" curve="139" id="146" lineColor="black" mx="-2.57258" my="0.740773" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="33" id="155" length="#shoulder_strap_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="29" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="10" id="156" length="#shoulder_strap_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="25" id="159" length="-#bust_to_neckline_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="130" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" angle2="180" color="black" id="160" length1="16" length2="16" penStyle="hair" point1="155" point4="159" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="29" id="164" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="159" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="169" length="#nape_to_neckline_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A1_A - 90" angle2="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90" color="black" id="170" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="169" point4="156" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="6" curve="170" id="174" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point id="179" length="CurrentLength - 1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" showLabel="true" spline="128" type="cutSpline"/> + <point id="180" length="CurrentLength - 1 - 6" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" showLabel="true" spline="128" type="cutSpline"/> + <point id="181" length="CurrentLength - 1 - 6 * 2" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A23" showLabel="true" spline="128" type="cutSpline"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="159" curve="128" id="188" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="68" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="69" idObject="64" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="70" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="71" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="72" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="73" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="87" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="90" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="94" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="95" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="119" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="120" idObject="38" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="121" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <spline id="129" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="140" idObject="130" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="141" idObject="138" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="142" idObject="139" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="149" idObject="146" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="150" idObject="132" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="151" idObject="134" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="152" idObject="131" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="153" idObject="145" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="154" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="149" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="150" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="151" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="152" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="153" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="161" idObject="155" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="162" idObject="160" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="163" idObject="159" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="165" idObject="164" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="168" idObject="156" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="171" idObject="169" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="172" idObject="170" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="177" idObject="174" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="178" idObject="174" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="182" idObject="181" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="183" idObject="180" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="184" idObject="179" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="185" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <spline id="186" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <spline id="187" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="191" idObject="188" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="192" idObject="159" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="193" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="shoulder_strap_base" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="191" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="192" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="194" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="195" idObject="155" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="196" idObject="160" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="197" idObject="159" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="198" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="199" idObject="130" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="202" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="203" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="204" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="205" idObject="181" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="206" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="207" idObject="180" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="208" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="209" idObject="179" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="210" idObject="128" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="211" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="212" idObject="38" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="213" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="211" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="212" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="215" idObject="132" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="216" idObject="134" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="217" idObject="131" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="219" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="215" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="216" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="217" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="220" idObject="188" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="221" idObject="159" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="222" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="shoulder_strap_base" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="220" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="221" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="223" idObject="123" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="224" idObject="164" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b1d0d5dd-475a-4f02-b7a1-7f5a4b496642}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="280.072" my="287.962" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="284.017" my="674.541" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="178" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="171" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="172" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="168" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="177" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>125</record> + <record>178</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="99" mx="0.10437" my="-0.10437" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{f1e881f0-b1ee-4701-90c9-c902a6b60ca6}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="1453.9" my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="165" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="162" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="5" idObject="163" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="5" before="5" idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="5" before="5" idObject="140" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="5" idObject="141" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="142" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="129" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="182" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="185" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="183" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="186" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="184" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="187" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="121"/> + <record path="154"/> + <record path="193"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>127</record> + <record>165</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="225" mx="32.0729" my="1.74489" name="straight front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e825ff84-1faf-45b0-bc04-81ac2d17a0fc}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B1" mx="1453.9" my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="223" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="224" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="194" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="196" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="5" idObject="197" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="5" before="5" idObject="198" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="5" idObject="199" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="202" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="203" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="204" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="205" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="206" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="207" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="208" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="209" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark2" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="210" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="213"/> + <record path="219"/> + <record path="222"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>223</record> + <record>224</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 3cd3947..8f8ebe7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,6 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + bodices/index underwear/index accessories/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst index 56aff5b..e90862f 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -8,7 +8,14 @@ .. contents:: -:cite:`1838:workwoman` +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. Materials --------- @@ -16,9 +23,13 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide. +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -49,8 +60,8 @@ For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the -hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to -*twice* the circumference of the hips). +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested @@ -66,7 +77,7 @@ calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd -reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table and measuring them directly on the fabric. Instructions @@ -75,22 +86,36 @@ Instructions Cutting ^^^^^^^ + + .. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. Legs ^^^^ +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running backstich. +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. @@ -98,15 +123,21 @@ Assembly ^^^^^^^^ Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing -allowance towards the inside on both long ends. +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center -Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the short ends, press and turn inside out. -Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run -separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back -of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and -pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. .. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness @@ -116,14 +147,25 @@ pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big needle or a pin. +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter points. +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if -it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the back. @@ -134,11 +176,10 @@ back. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ -Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. - -Variants --------- +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. Gallery ------- @@ -146,8 +187,3 @@ Gallery See also -------- - -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c116540 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..232ae62 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8838b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7a6c072 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f2c414e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9c0c56 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3659458 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..03c43c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0401-hemming_gussets.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2eb623e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0501-making_box_pleats.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e09c97a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f309d2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f12f449 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..219e2fd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0505-measuring_gusset.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5bd61e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d98d56 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c09740 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..20aeedd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0509-inserting_gusset.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a61157f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..17a85ab --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b67d52a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7182eb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..36e05d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..64b7b3e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2d22133 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c30d4b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55f9cd2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b5411d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d80e49 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a3d6245 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2a18d5b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index 72bd0d2..846ed10 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -8,7 +8,24 @@ .. contents:: -:cite:`1838:workwoman` +This is a shift or chemise based on the instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. Materials --------- @@ -17,7 +34,7 @@ Fabric ^^^^^^ * Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm - wide. + wide or more for bigger sizes. Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -29,7 +46,7 @@ Pattern :cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made -for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. == ========================= === ==== === ============================ # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment @@ -38,24 +55,33 @@ for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width - 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_lenght + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width - 9 Lenght of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length 10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width == ========================= === ==== === ============================ .. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the regularity in grading. -For modern bodies I would adapt them as follows: measure from the top of -the shoulder to where you want your neckline to be, somewhere around the -highbust, and use it to choose your size column for most other -measurements except for the lenght of sleeve-band, to be based on the -circumference of your upper arm plus 1 cm for ease, and the lenght of -plaited sleeve (i.e. the width of the sleeve), which should be about -twice the sleeve band. +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 @@ -64,20 +90,25 @@ long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. -The side gores should be somewhere between 10 and 15 cm wide at the top, -in such a way that the remaining fabric (including the bosom gores) is -enough to go around the bust with 10-20 cm of ease. +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. -There is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` which does all of these -calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding -:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are -included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd -reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + Instructions ------------ @@ -94,16 +125,17 @@ cut them vertically. Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. -.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`1838_drawers` note that - many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the drawers. +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. .. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or - other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps cut in - one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance on - the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the @@ -131,32 +163,59 @@ Gores Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: -fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press; -fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and -press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to the gore from the wrong side of the body. -Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of -the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the seam. +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + Bosom Gores ^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about one allowance wide. +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place and applique-stitch from the right side +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + and hemstitch from the wrong side. Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the @@ -165,62 +224,109 @@ wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. Gussets ^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, mitering the corners, hemstitch. Sleeves ^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the -sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place. Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, press. +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and applique stitch the folded edge. +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the raw edges, press. Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from the band and stopping at the pin. +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing all raw edges. -Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the gusset and the other side of the sleeve. .. tip:: Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, - when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three - other raw edges. + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and whipstitch until the end of the gusset; +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and continuing into the sleeve. +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + And then finish the band as above. This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the @@ -231,48 +337,78 @@ gusset and the other side of the sleeve. Shoulder Straps ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. Side seams ^^^^^^^^^^ -Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and stopping at the point marked for the gusset. -Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and -hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. Attaching the sleeves ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short edges. +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Turn inside out. Hem ^^^ +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. +Variants +-------- + Front Ruffle ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -280,11 +416,8 @@ Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. -TODO: gather and attach - -Variants --------- - +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. Gallery ------- @@ -293,7 +426,4 @@ Gallery See also -------- -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val index e0b10eb..9aed400 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val @@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ <increment formula="5" name="#bosom_gore_width"/> <increment description="The full width of fabric for modern, wide fabric (150+cm), or twice the width for historical widths of around 80 cm." formula="160" name="#width_of_fabric"/> <increment description="the finished length of the shift, somewhere below the knee" formula="height_neck_back_to_knee + 10" name="#shift_length"/> - <increment formula="(#width_of_fabric + #bosom_gore_width - (bust_circ + 20)) / 4" name="#side_gore"/> + <increment formula="(#width_of_fabric + #bosom_gore_width - (bust_circ)) / 4" name="#side_gore"/> </increments> <previewCalculations/> <draw name="shift"> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..341f357 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="180.52916mm" + height="55.529171mm" + viewBox="0 0 682.31494 209.87404" + version="1.1" + id="svg1" + inkscape:version="1.4 (e7c3feb100, 2024-10-09)" + sodipodi:docname="0101-folded_fabric.svg" + xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape" + xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd" + xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"> + <sodipodi:namedview + id="namedview1" + pagecolor="#ffffff" + bordercolor="#666666" + borderopacity="1.0" + inkscape:showpageshadow="2" + inkscape:pageopacity="0.0" + inkscape:pagecheckerboard="0" + inkscape:deskcolor="#d1d1d1" + inkscape:document-units="mm" + showgrid="true" + inkscape:zoom="1.0039352" + inkscape:cx="341.15747" + inkscape:cy="104.58842" + inkscape:window-width="1268" + inkscape:window-height="879" + inkscape:window-x="0" + inkscape:window-y="0" + inkscape:window-maximized="0" + inkscape:current-layer="layer1" + showguides="false"> + <inkscape:grid + id="grid1" + units="mm" + originx="0.99999997" + originy="-584.82677" + spacingx="3.7795276" + spacingy="3.7795277" + empcolor="#0099e5" + empopacity="0.30196078" + color="#0099e5" + opacity="0.14901961" + empspacing="5" + enabled="true" + visible="true" /> + </sodipodi:namedview> + <defs + id="defs1" /> + <g + inkscape:label="Layer 1" + inkscape:groupmode="layer" + id="layer1" + transform="translate(1,-584.82678)"> + <rect + style="fill:#e1e4ec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1-5" + width="680.31494" + height="207.87404" + x="0" + y="585.82678" + ry="0" /> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:8px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="616.06305" + y="-672.75592" + id="text1-0-6" + transform="rotate(90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan1-9-2" + x="616.06305" + y="-672.75592" + style="font-size:8px">waist to hip + 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.13614" + y="600.94489" + id="text2-2"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2-9" + x="340.13614" + y="600.94489">selvedge (waist level)</tspan></text> + <rect + style="fill:#c2ceec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1" + width="680.31494" + height="151.18111" + x="0" + y="642.51971" /> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.15747" + y="657.63782" + id="text2"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2" + x="340.15747" + y="657.63782">selvedge (hips level)</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.1575" + y="786.14172" + id="text2-7"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2-92" + x="340.1575" + y="786.14172">fold</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:8px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="616.06305" + y="-3.7795277" + id="text1-0" + transform="rotate(90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan1-9" + x="616.06305" + y="-3.7795277" + style="font-size:8px">waist to hip + 2</tspan></text> + </g> +</svg> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-pinned_fabric.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-pinned_fabric.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..85713df --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-pinned_fabric.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0102-marked_cording.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0102-marked_cording.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..60b8b8d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0102-marked_cording.svg @@ -0,0 +1,103 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="180.52916mm" + height="55.529171mm" + viewBox="0 0 682.31494 209.87404" + version="1.1" + id="svg1" + inkscape:version="1.4 (e7c3feb100, 2024-10-09)" + sodipodi:docname="0102-marked_cording.svg" + xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape" + xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd" + xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"> + <sodipodi:namedview + id="namedview1" + pagecolor="#ffffff" + bordercolor="#666666" + borderopacity="1.0" + inkscape:showpageshadow="2" + inkscape:pageopacity="0.0" + inkscape:pagecheckerboard="0" + inkscape:deskcolor="#d1d1d1" + inkscape:document-units="mm" + showgrid="true" + inkscape:zoom="1.87" + inkscape:cx="341.44385" + inkscape:cy="104.81283" + inkscape:window-width="1268" + inkscape:window-height="879" + inkscape:window-x="0" + inkscape:window-y="0" + inkscape:window-maximized="0" + inkscape:current-layer="layer1" + showguides="false"> + <inkscape:grid + id="grid1" + units="mm" + originx="0.99999997" + originy="-584.82677" + spacingx="3.7795276" + spacingy="3.7795277" + empcolor="#0099e5" + empopacity="0.30196078" + color="#0099e5" + opacity="0.14901961" + empspacing="5" + enabled="true" + visible="true" /> + </sodipodi:namedview> + <defs + id="defs1" /> + <g + inkscape:label="Layer 1" + inkscape:groupmode="layer" + id="layer1" + transform="translate(1,-584.82678)"> + <rect + style="fill:#e1e4ec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1-5" + width="680.31494" + height="207.87404" + x="0" + y="585.82678" + ry="0" /> + <rect + style="fill:#c2ceec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1" + width="680.31494" + height="151.18111" + x="0" + y="642.51971" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-dasharray:3,3;stroke-dashoffset:0" + d="M -6e-8,774.80317 H 680.31498" + id="path2" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,755.90554 H 680.31498" + id="path2-7" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,737.0079 H 680.31498" + id="path2-2" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,718.11026 H 680.31498" + id="path2-3" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,699.21262 H 680.31498" + id="path2-9" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,680.31498 H 680.31498" + id="path2-4" /> + <path + style="fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.5;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-dasharray:3, 3;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M -6e-8,661.41734 H 680.31498" + id="path2-5" /> + </g> +</svg> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0103-cording_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0103-cording_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9b535d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0103-cording_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e70520a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f3d9aeb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c861dd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cac2c40 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9bf46a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6758661 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb082d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d00006 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f385bb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c081f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2fd187 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dadf7fe --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a50490e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index fee8a48..9a7e7e8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index + early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index 1838_drawers/index |
