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+1880s Sportswear Jacket
+=======================
+
+.. figure:: jacket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+
+
+The drafting manual I've used for this jacket, :cite:`1892:cutters`, is
+from 1892, but tends to show shapes more typical of the natural form and
+second bustle eras
+
+Most of the jacket is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an
+historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with
+handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full jacket is also an
+option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a
+backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams.
+
+Note that this isn't a full pattern: there is a drafted block (or you
+can use a similarly shaped one you already have) and there are
+instructions on how to develop and then sew the jacket from that.
+
+Inspiratons and additional sources
+----------------------------------
+
+* :cite:`1892:cutters`, Fig. 15, The BeatricePlate 5a. 
+* :cite:`1896:elements`
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1.5 m of fashion fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton,
+  linen or wool;
+* about 1.5 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen;
+
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
+and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`ladies_jacket.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
+
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Flatlining
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Back
+^^^^
+
+.. note:: on basting
+
+   Usually, I'm not a basting person: I tend to pin and sew directly,
+   and for simple straight seams I even skip the pins.
+
+   In this case, however, all of the vertical seams are curved and need
+   to be sewn precisely, so I'd strongly recommend basting them before
+   sewing, starting from the waistline, which is where most precision is
+   needed and going upwards and then downwards.
+
+Starting from the center back and moving out, pin, baste and sew all
+seams of the back.
+
+Remove the basting thread, including the ones used to mark these
+seamlines and press open.
+
+Cut a piece of herrinbone tape long enough to go around the waist, sew
+its center to the allowances of the center back, as close as possible to
+the seam. Hem the ends.
+
+Press 6 mm of the allowances towards the lining, fell them down with a
+herringbone stitch taking care to only catch the lining.
+
+You may have to clip the allowances to let it lie flat on the curves,
+but try to avoid cutting into them as much as possible, as the wide
+allowances are very useful in case you need to adapt the jacket to body
+shape changes in the future. Using a steam iron to help the fabric
+follow the curves can be useful, especially with wool.
+
+Pin and baste the side seam, starting from the waist and allowing for
+any lenght difference at the two edges. Also pin and baste the shoulder
+seams, easing the longer back into the front.
+
+While wearing your full underwear and supports, try on the jacket,
+pinning the center fronts together, and adjust the fit as needed.
+
+Mark the position for the welt pockets above the bust.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+Pin, baste and sew the underarm (shorter) seam on both sleeves. 
+
+Press open, and fell down the allowances.
+
+Pin the outer seam, baste it starting from the top and down to about 2
+cm above the wrist; baste it starting from the wrist and finally gather
+the excess from the upper part in the remaining length. Sew, press and
+fell down the allowances.
+
+
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg
+   :align: center
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/index.rst
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index 0000000..5b1f616
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+*********
+ Jackets
+*********
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   1880s_sportswear_jacket/index
+