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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear')
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4e364b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Bodices +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + peasant_bodice/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d867b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6d0242 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg diff 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Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0404278 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc530aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b26a373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Peasant Bodice +============== + +.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg + :align: center + +This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century; +since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for +more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen +in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from +various parts of Europe. + +I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly +on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a +parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, +starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to +have just one dart and of course a different neckline. + +This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to +reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as +costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. + +For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th +century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with +strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs +to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long +project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern +assembly method is also perfectly feasible. + +The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, +near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or +additional cording for more support. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m main fabric; +* less than 1 m lining fabric. + +The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable +enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording; + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`; +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`peasant_bodice.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``vest_length_in_front`` + vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for + the pointed variant; +``bust_to_neckline_front`` + vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front: + if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes + somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck; +``nape_to_neckline_back`` + vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the + neckline; +``shoulder_strap_width`` + width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough + to give a nice shape to the deep neckline; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist + line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value; +``distance_dart_center_front`` + horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good + value; +``ease`` + ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only + just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other + underwear; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the + side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg + :align: center + + instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping / +notching the curves. + +.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg + :align: center + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. + +.. + + Gallery + ------- + +See Also +-------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d61d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6580e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="2" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/> + <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/> + <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#distance_dart_center_front"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" 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radius="neck_back_to_bust_front / 2" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="-50" angle2="-50" center="6" color="violet" id="9" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 1.25" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" 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+</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..44b5eea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/> + <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/> + <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/> + <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/> + <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/> + <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/> + <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/> + <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/> + <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_knee" value="60"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4e54a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,76 @@ +Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. +========================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of +:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and +page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. + +.. figure:: measurements.png + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Blair's | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Drawers Length | M14 | ``leg_waist_side_to_knee`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blair/measurements.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0e9ea9 --- /dev/null +++ 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type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="2" idObject="78" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.8095" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1826.44" my="1108.4" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1828.3" my="920.986" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..30831f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,126 @@ +The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments +============================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`. + +At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they +have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances +from Valentina used instead. + +All measurements have also been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book +itself. + +.. _cutters_jackets: + +Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3 + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle + +Skirts and Trousers +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Riding Habits etc. +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Cutters' | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| | | | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +S. B. tight-fitting Jacket +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate +21. + +* :download:`ladies_jacket.val` + +Vest +^^^^ + +Page 21, diagram 29 to 34, plate 16. + +* basic block, for hooks and eyes :download:`vest.val` +* with buttonhole stand (single breasted) + :download:`vest_single_breasted.val` + +Skirt +^^^^^ + +Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. + +* :download:`foundation_skirt.val` diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7854452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/ladies_jacket.val @@ -0,0 +1,521 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tight Fitting Ladies Jacket</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>cutters.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + 25" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#ease"/> + <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, button side" formula="4" name="#stand_width_buttons"/> + <increment description="width of the button stand, buttonholes side" formula="2.5" name="#stand_width_holes"/> + <increment description="circumference of the sleeve at the elbow" formula="30" name="#sleeve_circ_elbow"/> + <increment formula="24" name="#sleeve_circ_wrist"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90035" my="-0.774514" name="A22h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#shoulder_line" lineColor="black" mx="-5.98282" my="-0.774514" name="A2eeeee" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="-2.3385" my="-0.774514" name="A8" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90035" my="-0.384051" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" 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visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="253" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="255" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="256" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="257" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="258" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="259" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="260" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="261" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="274"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>267</record> + <record>268</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b76bea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val @@ -0,0 +1,245 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/> + <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/> + <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="4" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" 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b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3321df0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val @@ -0,0 +1,266 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + 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annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="381.201" my="1620.16" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="566.601" my="1632" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="83" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="99" mx="0.10437" my="-0.10437" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{f1e881f0-b1ee-4701-90c9-c902a6b60ca6}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="1453.9" my="781.047" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="132" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="89" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="133" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="134" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="135" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="140" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="112"/> + <record path="118"/> + <record path="121"/> + <record path="138"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>126</record> + <record>127</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97321bc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +**************************************** + Historical Womenswear Drafting Methods +**************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + blair/index + cutters/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index d67d4c7..8f8ebe7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,4 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + bodices/index + underwear/index accessories/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val index c1e2e3f..c10a1da 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength=""> - <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> <version>0.9.0</version> <unit>cm</unit> <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf) @@ -20,7 +20,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> </patternLabel> - <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements> + <measurements>../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit</measurements> <increments> <increment formula="3" name="#waistband_height"/> <increment formula="3" name="#placket_width"/> @@ -306,7 +306,7 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, <node after="1" idObject="169" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="12"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="185" inLayout="false" mx="4.22075" my="20.1862" name="facing_front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{24c9751b-4c35-46ef-9ebe-742ff14c7fc1}" version="2" width="2"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="F" mx="-506.416" my="3129.19" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> @@ -322,12 +322,12 @@ The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, </nodes> </detail> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="190" inLayout="false" mx="0.183511" my="20.1862" name="facing_back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c902fb54-8e8b-410d-a464-2005c37fb46c}" version="2" width="2"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-2863.48" my="3146.41" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="G" mx="-3203.17" my="3128.24" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="facing %mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3345.82" my="3155.02" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-3636.51" my="3141.39" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node after="1" before="0" idObject="186" type="NodePoint"/> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst index 0ec412f..9c5908a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst @@ -55,6 +55,8 @@ Notions Pattern ------- +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -73,8 +75,8 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ``hip_circ`` (G09) circumference of the hips. -the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file -and has the list of needed measurements. +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern ^^^^^^^ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df3ae69 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/drawers.val @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>1838 drawers</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="half the width of the fabric for modern wide fabric, the full width for historical ones (should be around 80 cm)" formula="80" name="#fabric_width"/> + <increment formula="min(#fabric_width;hip_circ)" name="#total_width"/> + <increment formula="leg_waist_side_to_ankle + 6" name="#total_height"/> + <increment description="half the circumference of the leg at the hem" formula="23" name="#leg_hem_width"/> + <increment description="vertical distance between the waist in the front and in the back" formula="6" name="#waist_drop"/> + <increment description="waist circumference plus a small overlap if buttoning in the front, or a larger one (up to 10 cm) if buttoning in the back" formula="waist_circ + 3" name="#waistband_lenght"/> + <increment formula="17" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="drawers"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="G" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#total_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength * 7 / 15" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="#waist_drop" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="F" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="5" length="#total_width / 2 - 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Z" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="6" length="#total_width / 14 * 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="S" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="7" length="#total_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="8" length="#leg_hem_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="9" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="10" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="11" length="#waistband_lenght" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="12" length="#waistband_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="13" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W3" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="14" length="waist_circ" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W4" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="14" id="15" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="W5" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="16" idObject="5" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="17" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="18" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="19" idObject="9" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="20" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="21" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="22" idObject="7" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="24" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="25" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="29" idObject="15" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="30" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="31" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="overlap_line" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="32" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="33" idObject="2" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="23" mx="0" my="0" name="leg" uuid="{6f01202d-3a20-4ce1-814f-1ae46d66daaf}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="-1006.51" my="155.699" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="-565.64" my="147.381" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="33" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="32" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="17" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="20" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>33</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" mx="0" my="0" name="waistband" uuid="{793aa3fb-acc6-4b6d-afa8-d59f8eb199d0}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="544.975" my="-470.289" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="112.426" my="-461.97" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="31"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + </details> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..623dcc4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm + wide. + +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + + + +.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're + cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that +the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running +backstich. + +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of +the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. + +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, +sew with a hemming stitch. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the +short ends, press and turn inside out. + +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. + +.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center + of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness + is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the + body. + +Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big +needle or a pin. + +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends +by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter +points. + +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, +matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and +overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the +waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the +back. + +.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet + matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg, + or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +- https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13865/drawers-underpants-unknown/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..92fd2b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="hip_circ" value="85"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="60"/> + <m name="leg_waist_side_to_ankle" value="80"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git 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instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide or more for bigger sizes. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, +with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. + +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + 1 Length of shoulder-strap 23 20 17 #shoulder_strap_length + 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width + 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width + 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length + 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side + 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length + 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length +10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width +== ========================= === ==== === ============================ + +.. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the + regularity in grading. + +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. + +Note that the measurements 2 and 3 given for the shoulder straps result +in straps that look narrower than the one in the technical image, so you +way want to add a cm or two to both of them. + +As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width +of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 +cm wide, on modern fabric the front and back can be cut side to side, as +long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger +sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, +somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. + +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. + +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just +the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. + +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Measure and cut the front and back from the full width of the fabric, +side to side on wide fabric or one on top of the other on narrow. + +If the sleeves fit nicely in the width of the fabric cut them +horizontally, if making more than one shift it may be more convenient to +cut them vertically. + +Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and +bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. + +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. + +.. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be + cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the + latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave + more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + +Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are +perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the +middle of the side seam, open it again. + +Fold the fabric in half on the vertical and carefully align all four +edges, measure on the top edge, from the side, the width of the gore and +cut a triangle from there to a point 3-4 cm below the middle of the +body. + +.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle + of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing + allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an + angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to + give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula, + but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance, + will usually make it good enough. + +.. figure:: shift_layout.svg + :align: center + +Gores +^^^^^ + +Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which +side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: + +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it +so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to +the gore from the wrong side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +seam. + +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + +Bosom Gores +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped +slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the +bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). + +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side +by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about +one allowance wide. + +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place +and applique-stitch from the right side + +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitch from the wrong side. + +Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the +wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. + +Gussets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + +Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, hemstitch. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the +sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +to keep the pleats in place. + +Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, +press. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and +applique stitch the folded edge. + +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance +towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the +raw edges, press. + +Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. + +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with +the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. + +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the +band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one +side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and +hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from +the band and stopping at the pin. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem +all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the +gusset and the other side of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + +Shoulder Straps +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, +mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + +Attaching the sleeves +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, +pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides +together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short +edges. + +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + +Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the +shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and +whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. + +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out. + +Hem +^^^ + +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. + +Variants +-------- + +Front Ruffle +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as +the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm +high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. + +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4caa03f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 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/dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b22ad2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11c8779 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,313 @@ +1904 Combination Suit +===================== + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a combination suit (chemise and drawers) based on +:cite:`1904:blair`, or the previous edition :cite:`1897:blair`, with +knee-length split drawers, no sleeves (but armhole flaps) and a round neck. + +It should be suitable for the whole period when combinations were in +use, in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2-3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* small buttons; +* optional but recommended lace. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/blair/index`; +see that page for the required measurements. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/blair/blair.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combination_suit.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``dart_distance`` + 2 cm up to a waist circumference of 65 cm, then add 1/8 of the + difference. +``dart_waist_down`` + length of the lower part of the darts. +``bust_ease`` + how much ease to leave at the bust: no more than 2 cm. +``front_facing`` + width of the facing on the front and crotch opening; enough to add + buttons and buttonholes, but note that it will have to go around a + tight curve, where a narrower facing will work easily. +``front_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the front. +``back_added_depth`` + how much height to add to the crotch seam compared to the side in the back. +``shoulder_overlap`` + how much the sleevelet should overlap at the shoulder: 1 cm for a + shoulder strap with buttons, a bit more if the shoulder strap is + closed. +``sleevelet_depth`` + widest part of the sleevelet. +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 fronts; if your fabric isn't especially wide you may need to cut +each individual front in the full width of the fabric, rather than +cutting two at a time on folded fabric; make sure to cut them so that +they are symmetrical. +Cut the back on the fold of the fabric. +Cut two of the sleevelets. + +.. note:: + The length of the legs on the pattern is the length of plain legs, + finished just with a hem. + + To add a ruffle or lace at the bottom, remove its height from the + bottom of the leg, to add pintucks add twice their depth to the + bottom of the leg. + + Or keep the leg as is, and make enough pintucks to precisely match + the height of the ruffle. + +Mark all darts. + +From the remaining fabric also cut enough bias strips, about 4 cm wide, +to face the neck and enough cross-grain strips, 3 times the width set in +the pattern as ``front_facing`` to face the front and the crotch +opening. + +.. note:: + It is important that the facing on the front is on the grain or + cross-grain, but not on the bias, as it will have to stabilize the + bias cut front for the buttons and buttonholes. + + If you want to make a shaped facing instead of a straight one, cut it + with the front part on the (cross-)grain. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 01-darts.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts in the front, press them towards the side. + +.. figure:: 02-sewn_legs.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-hemstitching_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together sew the legs, press the seam open, trim the front +allowance, press the allowances towards the front, folding the back to +cover the raw edges and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 04-sewn_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the cross-grain facing to the front and +crotch, using the ``front_facing`` measurement for the allowance +(default is 1 cm). + +.. warning:: + The line on the pattern is not the seam line, but the *center line*, + and will have to lie halfway through the facing where the buttons + will be, allowing for the overlapping. + + +.. figure:: 05-hemstitched_front_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it towards the inside, fold again to cover all raw edges, hemstitch +it down. + +.. figure:: 06-basted_gathering.jpg + :align: center + +Baste two lines of gathering stitches between the marks of the drawers' +back, at 18 and 22 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 07-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press the bottom edge of the back towards the wrong side, pin it to the +fronts in such a way that the side seam aligns with back seam of the +side dart and the two fronts overlap in the middle up to the mark +closest to the center back (between points C8 and A10). + +.. tip:: + In the overlap I'd put the left leg on top, closest to the fabric of + the back, and the right leg on the bottom, closest to the body, + unless making the combinations for somebody who is left-handed. + +Gather the excess of the fabric and hemstitch the back over them, +catching each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 08-finishing_back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance on the back, fold the allowance from the drawers over +it and hemstitch it down to flat fell the seam. + +.. tip:: + To reduce bulk, you can also trim both allowances and cover + everything with a band of fabric hemstitched to the inside to cover + them. + +.. figure:: 09-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the side seams continuing down into the side +darts, and the shoulder seams. + +Press open and then towards the back, trim the allowances of the back +until you reach the dart, flat fell the seam with a hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 12-sleevelet_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the straight edge of the sleevelets with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 13-sleevelet_attached.jpg + :align: center + + This picture and the next have been taken on the variant with + buttoned shoulders; with sewn shoulders it should be similar, but the + ends of the sleevelet would overlap by a few cm. + +Put the sleevelet over the armhole, right sides together, such that the +curved edge follows the line of the armhole, extending by 1 cm from the +allowance of the armhole, and in such a way that the ends overlap a bit +close to the shoulder seam and any fullness is gathered around the side +seam. Sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 14-sleevelet_finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances open and then towards the body, fold the allowance +of the sleevelet to cover all raw edges and hemstitch down to fell the +seam. + +.. figure:: 15-neck_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing to the neck, press towards the +inside, fold to cover the raw edges and hemstitch down. + +.. figure:: 16-receiving_tuck_hem.jpg + :align: center + + Here instead of a simple hem the edge has been folded up by 3 cm, + sewn at 1 cm from the fold, and then the raw edge has been folded + down 1 cm twice, to hide the raw edge and make a receiving tuck for + lace. + +Fold the leg hem up twice by 2 cm towards the wrong side, hemstitch it down for a plain finish, or add pintucks, ruffles and lace as desired. + +Starting from the top and going down to about the end of the darts or a +bit above it, make buttonholes every 4 cm on the right front and attach +corresponding buttons to the left front. + +Variants +-------- + +Buttoned shoulders +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To be able to wear these combinations under an evening dress it is +useful to be able to open the shoulder strap to move them out of the +way. + +To do so, add 5 mm to the allowances at the shoulder seams and instead +of sewing the fronts to the back finish each allowance by folding it +twice towards the wrong side 1 cm after the sleevelets have been added. + +Make two buttonholes on each front and add the corresponding buttons to +the back. + +Fullness instead of darts +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a fitted front with darts, the combination suit can be made +with fullness in the front, controlled with e.g. a drawstring or a +ribbon passed through beading lace at the waist. + +In that case, print piece C ``front_with_fullness`` instead of piece B +``front_with_gathers``, avoid sewing the darts (of course) and add a +mean to control the fullness to the waistline. + +Drawers +^^^^^^^ + +To make just a pair of drawers print piece C ``front_with_fullness``, +cut the drawers part 5 cm under the waistline, add a 5 cm waistband and +gather the legs to it. + +Knit fabric combinations +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: knit_combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +To make this a combination suit in knit fabric you can use the pattern piece +with darts, without sewing them, and sew the center front down to the +end of the darts rather than make buttons. + +Before finishing the neckhole check that it is wide enough to enter the +suit: if it isn't you may have to lower it, or to open a small length of +the center front and make buttons and buttonholes. + +Also make sure that the neckhole finishing maintains the required +elasticity. + +To give any kind of longevity to the garment you will have to use an +elastic stitch: since sewing it from flat knit fabric is not a common +historical construction method anyway I'd use modern stitches such as a +narrow zig-zag. + +You can also avoid the facings and simply fold the raw edges towards the +wrong side once and topstitch them down (a 3-steps zig zag stitch would +work nicely): the raw edge will remain visible, but protected. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center + +See also +-------- + +* `Fediverse thread on whether people would have sewn knit underwear at + home + <https://social.gl-como.it/display/3e3ce0df-2464-65d0-644b-412075423818>`_ + (I suspect not). diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e08e19 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1904_combination_suit/knit_combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg 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mode 100644 index 0000000..4e70e77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,422 @@ +Combinations Corset Cover and Petticoat +======================================= + +.. figure:: princess_petticoat_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This combinations corset cover and petticoat, or princess petticoat, is +suitable under the A-line skirts of the late Victorian and early +Edwardian eras. + +For historybounding it's of course also suitable as a sundress, and +would probably look nice in a 1970s does edwardian style. + +Since this is either underwear or modern clothing, I've given +instructions for flat felled seams that are topstitched by machine; of +course hemstitching the allowances by hand is always an option. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* optional but recommended lace; +* 8 small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index` +and you need to take the measurements listed in :ref:`cutters_jackets`. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``full_length`` + Length of the garment from the neck back, excluding the ruffle; +``shoulder_line`` + distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder; + the default is one sixth of the distance between the back of the neck + and the waist; +``waist_to_hips`` + standard taken from the book: if your distance is very different you + may want to use your measurement; +``ease`` + ease added to half of the bust circumference; +``waist_suppression`` + waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 + or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + how long the darts should continue down from the waist: about 20 to + 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is; +``stand_width`` + e.g. 2 cm; +``front_opening`` + calculated to reach halfway between the waist and the hips; +``hem_circumference`` + e.g. 2 m; +``ruffle_height`` + e.g. 20 cm; +``ruffle_density`` + e.g. 2.5, or 3 for a densely pleated ruffle; +``sleeve_ruffle_height`` + e.g. 5 cm; +``sleeve_ruffle_density`` + e.g. 1.5; +``neckline_depth_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front; +``neckline_width`` + full width of the neckline at the widest point; +``neckline_depth_back`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back; +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front panel on the fold, the rest of the panels twice; also cut +one each of the front facings, two sleeve ruffles and enough +selvege-to-selvege strips for the bottom ruffle. + +.. tip:: + + The length of the bottom ruffle in the pattern is just a suggestion; + using the closest multiple of the fabric width will reduce fabric + waste and allow you to use the selveges and avoid having to finish + the raw edges. + +Press carefully the crease in the front piece, to mark the line for the +opening, mark the triangle for the end of the opening, and also mark the +darts. + +Front Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-center_front_cut.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the center front until the *top* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0202-facings_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +With the right side of the facing on the wrong side of the front, pin +the longer facing to the *right* of the cut and the shorter one to the +*left*; sew with an allowance of half the placket width until the +*bottom* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0203-cut_triangle.jpg + :align: center + +Cut from the end of the center cut to the end of the seams, along the +triangle marking, taking care to just reach the seam, but not snip into +them. + +.. figure:: 0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg + :align: center + +Press the shorter facing towards the opening, press down its other edge +towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +.. figure:: 0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Press the facing in half and move it to the right side of the fabric so +that it just covers the seam. + +.. figure:: 0206-triangle_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the small triangle from the front fabric towards the right +side. + +.. figure:: 0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-triangle_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping just beyond the bottom of the +triangle, topstitch the lower edge catching the top of the triangle. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the longer facing: press it towards the opening, press down +its other edge towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +Press it in half and move it to the right side of the fabric, on top of +the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping at the same level where +you've stopped on the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0211-placket_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the bottom edge of the longer facing on top of the shorter +one, trim any excess or bulk and topstitch a square to keep it in place +and finish all raw edges. + +.. tip:: this is a pretty basic finish for the end of the button + placket, of course you can look for historical examples and go wide + with shaped edges. + +.. figure:: 0212-darts_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts and press them towards the sides. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, sew all vertical seams. Note that the curved seam +between the side back and back is quite fiddly and will require at the +very minimum the seam line to be marked and carefully pinned, or +possibly even basting. + +Also sew the shoulder seams. + +Try the combinations on to check the fitting before finishing the seams, +do any alternation that is required. + +Press the seams open and then to one side, either towards the center +front or the center back, trim the lower allowance, fold the top one to +cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +Ruffles +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hem_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Sew all hem ruffle strips together in a tube; if you can use the +selvedges simply press the seams open to minimize bulk, otherwise flat +fell the seams. + +Hem one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Sew also the sleeve ruffles in a tube, flat felling the seam, and hem +one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg + :align: center + +Gather or pleat the sleeve ruffles to the armscyes, sew with a double +allowance. + +.. note:: Take care to distribute the lenght of the ruffle uniformly + around the armscye, rather than just around the top of the sleeve as + it is usual, as the excess fabric around the armpit is useful to + protect the dress from sweat. This is of course less an issue if + making this as outerwear. + +.. figure:: 0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the body, trim the allowance of the body, +fold the ruffle on top to cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg + :align: center + +Press the hem of the petticoat towards the wrong side by 3 cm, sew at 1 +cm from the hem. + +.. figure:: 0407-receiving_tuck.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance down to make a receiving tuck, and then press the +raw edge inside the tuck. + +.. figure:: 0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the top of the tuck in the receiving tuck, quartering it to the +hem and pleating or gathering the excess fabric. + +.. figure:: 0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 5 mm from the hem to attach the ruffle and finish the tuck. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the neck with a narrow hem. + +Sew lace liberally and/or to taste. + +Add small buttons and buttonholes to the front. + +.. tip:: If adding lace to the neckline, make the first buttonhole a bit + below the lace, and use a snap to keep the top of the neckline + closed. + +Variants +-------- + +Corset Cover +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The same pattern can of course be used to make a regular corset cover: +either mark a length of 10 cm down from the waist, and cut all pieces at +that length, or cut all pieces at the waistline plus sewing allowance +and add a basque in one piece made by aligning all of the skirt pieces +and rounding the edges. + +The front facings will also have to be changed to be as long as the +front edge, and can be simply included in the front piece. + +Pocket Slits +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Since this kind of garment is likely to be made in lightweight fabric, +and it has no waist seam, adding pockets may not work very well, since +there is no structure to support the weight of the things one may want +to carry. + +Also, when using it as underwear pockets aren't really needed (since the +main garment already has them) and they may add unwanted bulk. + +Of course my solution to this isn't “no pockets” (perish the thought!), +but simple slits with modesty facings through which one can access a +:doc:`/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index`. + +I've placed these slits on the seam between the side and side back +panels rather than on the seams of the front piece for two reasons: one +is that this way the front of the skirt remains smoother, and the bulk +of the pockets can be where there is more fullness in the back; the +other one is that the seams of the front piece are the first ones that +are changed in case one needs to do small alterations to the fitting, +and leaving them clear makes it easier. + +For the facings, cut two rectangles of fabric, about 20 cm × 14 cm each. + +.. figure:: b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Fold them in half on the long side, right sides facing, and sew the +short sides with an allowance of 1 cm. +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: b02-facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the rectangles on the right side of the side back pieces, on the +straight grain edge, between the waist and the hips, and at half an +allowance from the edge of the fabric, sew with the regular seam +allowance. + +.. figure:: b03-facing_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the outside. + +.. figure:: b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on top of the side back pieces, right sides together, and +sew the seam stopping in such a way that just 1 cm at the top and bottom +of the facings is covered. + +.. figure:: b05-allowance_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press all allowances towards the side. + +.. figure:: b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowance of the side just outside the facings, fold it twice +and topstitch it down while keeping the facing out of the way. + +.. figure:: b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the allowance of the side backs over the allowance of the facing, +covering all raw edges, and topstitch it to the facing. + +.. figure:: b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the rest of the allowance of the side to half its width, cover +with the allowance of the side back and topstitch it as usual for a +flat-felled seam. + +Insertion Lace +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern is of course great for a liberal application of insertion +lace, which can happen in two ways. + +One is to prepare entire parts of the panels by sewing together lace, +and then cutting a smaller panel in fabric: this works great e.g. for +the yoke. + +Another one is to insert strips of lace by sewing them to the fabric and +then cutting away the fabric behind the lace; for lace that only covers +one of the panels this should be done before the combinations are sewn, +while for laces that go all around the circumference it's easier to +finish the garment first and then add the lace. + +A variant of the latter is to cut all around the finished garment and +then insert the lace: this wastes less fabric, but of course adds +length, so it's only recommended in the skirt part where it's easier to +compensate for it. It will also change the line of the skirt, but the +effect should only be noticeable with taller laces. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: princess_petticoat_back.jpg + :align: center + + +.. figure:: dress_front.jpg + :align: center + + A wool dress made from the same pattern. + +See also +-------- + +* `Blog post on my first make of this pattern + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/03/16-swiss-embroidery-princess-petticoat/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post of a make of this pattern as a wool dress + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/12/20-i_ve_been_influenced/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65a7373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/princess_petticoat_back.jpg 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg 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</pieces> + </sheet> + </sheets> +</layout> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ac14fc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,508 @@ +Single Layer Midbust Corset +=========================== + +.. figure:: corset_34_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, non specifically based on an +historical model, but with an outline that is generically suitable for +a good part of the Victorian age. + +It is a single layer with applied boning channels made of tape (or self +fabric): a channel on each seam is used to neaten and reinforce the +seam, so that it can be simply pressed flat for less bulk rather than +requiring more complex finishes. + +The instructions allow for boning channels on either the outside or the +inside of the corset, according to taste. + +Like all corsets, it's not really suitable for beginner sewists, but the +hardest part is taking good measurements, and then it requires more +precision than advanced skills, so an intermediate sewist would probably +be able to do it. + +The instructions assume that it will be sewn by machine: sewing it by +hand would be feasible, but possibly a bit hard on the hands because of +the use of sturdy fabric. Compared to other corset construction methods +this one may require sewing through less layers of coutil, especially if +using tape rather than self fabric for the boning channels. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* less than 1 m of strong corset fabric, e.g. coutil. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* strong sewing thread to match the fabric — a good brand of cotton + thread or sewing silk, linen if you're sewing by hand; +* boning: ~ 6 m 6 - 10 mm spiral steel and ~ 2 m 10 mm flat steel + (precise amounts will depend on the height of the corset and how many + boning pieces you want to add) — you can also substitute both with ~ + 8 m 6 - 10 mm synthetic whalebone; +* one steel busk to fit the center front height; +* ~ 6 m 25-30 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same + amount premade boning channel tape; +* ~ 1 m 15 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* ~ 3 m bias tape to match or contrast with the fabric, to bind the top + and bottom edge; +* ~ 30 two-parts metal eyelets; +* buttonhole twist silk for flossing, +* about 6 m lacing cord. + +For a double boning channel the tape should be at least double the width +of the boning plus 10 mm, for a single boning channel at least the width +of the boning plus 8 mm; tape that is a bit too wide is better than tape +that is too narrow. + +Pattern +------- + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern +file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These measurements should be taken while wearing just modern underwear +(including a well fitting bra); a tight camisole with side seams can +help to take the arc measurements, and it's helpful to mark at least the +waist, but ideally all of the circumferences with tape. + +Full circumferences: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Circumference around Bust; +``lowbust_circ`` (G05) + Circumference under the breasts; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Circumference around the Waist; +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + Circumference at the hip bone level; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Circumference around the widest part of the hips; + +The same measurements, just on the front, from an ideal side seam to an +ideal side seam: + +``bust_arc_f`` (G12) + ; +``lowbust_arc_f`` (G13) + ; +``waist_arc_f`` (G15) + ; +``highhip_arc_f`` (G16) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G17) + ; + +And the corresponding back arcs; in the valentina file these are +calculated from the two measurements above (but you may want to take +these measurements as a double check): + +``bust_arc_b`` (G28) + ; +``lowbust_arc_b`` (G29) + ; +``waist_arc_b`` (G31) + ; +``highhip_arc_b`` (G32) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G33) + ; + +Vertical measurements; except for the first one they are taken straight +in the front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the +levels where the above measurements had been taken: + +``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03) + this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and + should follow the curve of the body; +``bust_to_waist_f`` (H10) + ; +``lowbust_to_waist_f`` (H11) + ; +``waist_to_highhip_f`` (H30) + ; +``waist_to_hip_f`` (H31) + ; + +And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: + +``reduced_waist_circ`` + this depends on the squishyness and taste of the person: 2-4 cm less + than the natural waist is good if no waist reduction is desired (the + corset should fit snugly on the waist), but more is of course a valid + choice. + +.. tip:: A waist reduction of 2-4 cm should result in a corseted waist + (measured over the corset) that is about the same as the uncorseted + waist, making it easier to make clothing that can be worn either with + or without a corset, for maximum historybounding potential. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`midbust_corset.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables: + +``waist_to_top_f`` + from the waist to the top of the corset in the front: around the + measurement of ``bust_to_waist`` is usually good; +``waist_to_top_side`` + from the waist to the top of the corset under the armpit: this should + be less than ``armpit_to_waist_side``; +``waist_to_top_b`` + from the waist to the top of the corset on the back: often, but not + always, the same as ``waist_to_top_f``; +``waist_to_bottom_f`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center front; +``waist_to_bottom_side`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset on the side; +``waist_to_bottom_b`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center back: often, + but not always, the same as ``waist_to_bottom_f``; +``lacing_gap`` + usually 5 - 10 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + 2 cm will allow for easy adjustments of the pattern. + + +Instructions +------------ + +Mockup +^^^^^^ + +If this is the first time you're making a corset from this pattern it's +strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup from a sturdy but +cheap fabric: some cotton canvas or duck is often a good idea, but avoid +anything that is elastic. + +When cutting the panels mark the line of the waist in a way that will be +visible when trying on the mock-up. + +.. figure:: basted_busk.jpg + :align: center + +If this is also the first corset you're making you may want to use it as +practice to insert the busk, otherwise you can cheat and simply baste it +to the edge of the front panel with stripes of scrap fabric. + +Assemble the mock up following the instructions for the corset, keeping +the seam allowances towards the outside, but don't add a waist tape, nor +boning channels over the seams; for better results you may want to add a +boning channel to the middle of each panel (it can just be a strip of +scrap fabric). + +.. figure:: basted_lacing_stripes.jpg + :align: center + +It is also convenient to have a set of lacing stripes: two stripes +of sturdy fabric folded in half with a boning channel near the fold, a +line of closely spaced grommets and another boning channel, pre-laced +with cotton lace, to be basted to the folded back panels with a line of +stitching just outside the boning channel further from the folded edge. + +If you don't have one yet you can fully finish panel 6 with boning +channels and grommets, and then reuse it for your next corset. + +Once the mockup is assembled, try it on when standing up and check: + +* that the size is precisely correct; +* that the seams lie vertically on the body; +* that the waist line correspond to the position of your waist; +* that there are no significant wrinkles (you do need the corset to be + boned to be able to check this); + +then sit down and check that you're not being poked in the legs by the +busk or any other boning. + +If you find that you need to adjust the size, or the position of the +seam between panels 3 and 4, I'd recommend changing the measurements in +the valentina tape file, and generating a new pattern: this way the same +measurement file can be used again for different patterns. + +If you had to do significant changes you may now want to make a second +(and third, and…) mockup, or you can start cutting into the real fabric, +as the wide allowance will still allow for minor adjustments. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 each of +panels 1 left, right and right facing (both the center front and the +center back panels will have two layers, everything else will be single +layer). + +Note that, assuming that you're marking the fabric from the wrong side, +the pattern is for a corset with external boning channels: if making +internal boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0202-markings.jpg + :align: center + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. Optionally +mark also the center panel line (grainline) if you want to add boning on +it. + +I'd also recommend marking each panel with its number, whether it's the +right or left panel, and possibly the vertical direction to avoid +mistakes when assembling. + +Busk Insertion +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-marking_eyes.jpg + :align: center + +Put the eye side of the busk on the wrong side of panel 1 right, aligned +with the center front seam: the eyes that are set closer to each other +than the rest should be at the bottom; mark the position of each eye. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Put panel 1 right over panel 1 right facing, right sides together, and +sew the center front seam starting from the top and leaving a gap for +every eye. +Press flat, press with right sides out. + +Cut two pieces of waist tape as long as half the circumference of the +waist plus the (finished) width of panels 1 and 6 at the waist. + +.. figure:: 0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the eye side of the busk between the layers, making sure that the +eyes stick out of the openings, wrap one waist tape around it so that +the short end will reach just before the seam between panels 1 and 2, +and carefully pin everything in place. + +.. figure:: 0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch from the right side of the corset, using a zipper foot and +sewing as close as possible to the busk. + +.. figure:: 0305-marked_left_busk_position.jpg + :align: center + +Fold panel 1 left wrong sides together, align it carefully with the +assembled panel 1 right and mark the position where the eyes of the busk +are. + +.. figure:: 0306-awl_holes.jpg + :align: center + +With an awl open holes on each marked position, just as big as necessary +to let the studs of the busk pass through. + +.. figure:: 0307-inserting_left_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the stud side of the busk, wrap the other waist tape around it as +before and carefully pin in place. + +.. figure:: 0308-finished_front_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch also this panel from the right side of the corset, using a +zipper foot and sewing as close as possible to the busk. + +Panels +^^^^^^ + +Attach the panels to each other, starting from the just finished panel 1 +and panel 2, and continuing until panel 6. + +If you want your boning channels inside the corset put each panel on the +next right side together, if you are making external boning channels put +the panels wrong side together, so that the allowances will be on the +outside of the corset. + +.. figure:: 0401-basted_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Using relatively short (~ 1 cm) running stitches baste just outside of +the marked line; if you used tailor's tacks remove them so that they +won't get stuck in the seam. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewn_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Sew each seam, press open. + +Fitting +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-eyelet_strip.jpg + :align: center + +Fold panel 6, wrong sides together, so that the cut edge aligns with +the seam line with panel 5, press. Machine baste a premade eyelet strip. + +Ideally also baste premade boning channels in the middle of most panels, +and add some boning (temporary boning such as zip ties are fine). + +Try the corset on, check the fit and do any required last minute +adjustment. + +Unpick the eyelet strip and temporary boning channels. + +Boning Channels +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-pinned_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the center front, sew a boning channel on each seam: trim +the sewing allowances so that they are narrower than the tape, center a +piece of tape on the seam so that it covers the waist tape precisely at +waist level, pin it, possibly baste it. + +.. figure:: 0602-sewn_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the boning channel *from the front of the corset* at 2 mm from each +edge and, if it is going to be a double channel, in the middle. +After sewing each channel test it with a piece of boning to check that +it fits; otherwise unpick it and sew it again. + +.. figure:: 0603-pinned_channel_and_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Before sewing the channel between panels 5 and 6 make sure to let the +waist tape reach to the fold in panel 6 and go back to the seam, leave +it pinned in place. + +.. note:: + + Sewing from the right side of the corset will result in a neater + seam; for internal boning channels aligning precisely the seam may be + a bit fiddly, and this is where basting will help, to have a precise + reference. + +.. figure:: 0604-eyelet_channels.jpg + :align: center + +On panel 6 also sew channels for the flat steels between the two layers +of coutil: sew a line 1-2 mm from the fold of the panel, and then 3 more +lines at a distance of 1 mm more than the width of the flat steel boning +from each other. + +.. figure:: 0605-extra_boning_channels.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, sew an additional boning channel to the middle of panels +2-5: pin the tape vertically in the middle of the panel and sew at 2 mm +from each side. + +Binding and Boning +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. tip:: + If you want to add loops for garter tabs, do it now by sewing them to + the bottom edge of the corset near the front, side and back. + +.. figure:: 0701-binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew bias tape to the bottom edge of the corset, +leaving an excess at the center front and back. + +.. figure:: 0702-closing_binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the inside, folding the excess so that all raw edges are +covered, and hemstitch it closed. + +.. figure:: 0703-measuring_boning.jpg + :align: center + +For each boning channel except those in panel 6, cut a piece of spiral +steel 2 cm shorter than the channel, + +.. figure:: 0704-end_caps.jpg + :align: center + +finish the ends with end caps + +.. figure:: 0705-boning_in_channel.jpg + :align: center + +and insert the boning in the channel. + +.. figure:: 0706-flat_steel_boning.jpg + :align: center + +For panel 6, cut pieces of flat steel boning 2 cm shorter than the +boning channels, sand the ends, wrap them in teflon tape or dip them in +plastic and insert them in the channels. + +Add binding also to the top edge, closing the channels: right sides +together, sew bias tape also to the top edge of the corset, being +careful not to sew over the boning; press it towards the back and +hemstitch it closed. + +Lacing holes +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-marked_lacing_holes.jpg + :align: center + +Starting at 1 cm on each side of the waist, mark the position for lacing +holes on panel 6 at a distance of 2 cm, reaching to the top and bottom +of the panel. + +.. figure:: 0802-using_awl.jpg + :align: center + +Open each hole with an awl, trying not to break the threads in the +fabric, + +.. figure:: 0803-metal_eyelet.jpg + :align: center + +and insert a metal eyelet. + +.. figure:: 0804-lacing.svg + :align: center + +Thread lacing cord through the eyelets: start with the center of the +cord at the top and thread the two ends alternating the sides making +sure that each X formed is either on the outside or the inside of the +corset; when you reach the waist make sure that you've just done an X on +the inside of the corset, skip a hole, thread each end of the cord in +the eyelet just below the waist from the inside to the outside, then in +the eyelet just above the waist on the same side, going from the outside +towards the inside and forming two loops, and then continue doing +regular Xs until the bottom of the corset. Close the lacing with a +sturdy knot and move all excess towards the loops at the waist. + +Flossing +^^^^^^^^ + +Using a strong thread such as silk buttonhole twist make a few +embroidery stitches at the ends of each spiral steel bone, going through +all layers of the corset, to keep it in place and prevent it from +rubbing on the fabric. + +This can be as simple and utilitarian as you'd like, but you can also +look at extant corsets for examples of decorative stitches. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: corset_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: corset_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccb1b45 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="80"/> + <m name="lowbust_circ" value="70"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="highhip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="bust_arc_f" value="42"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="36"/> + <m name="waist_arc_f" value="35"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="hip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="bust_arc_b" value="(bust_circ - bust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_b" value="(lowbust_circ - lowbust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="waist_arc_b" value="(waist_circ - waist_arc_f)"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_b" value="(highhip_circ - highhip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="hip_arc_b" value="(hip_circ - hip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="18"/> + <m name="lowbust_to_waist_f" value="13"/> + <m name="waist_to_highhip_f" value="10"/> + <m name="waist_to_hip_f" value="20"/> + <m description="Circumference around the waist with a confortable reduction." full_name="Reduced Waist circumference" name="@reduced_waist_circ" value="60"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa93ae6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -0,0 +1,619 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> 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