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-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst20
1 files changed, 19 insertions, 1 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index 97a715f..d3ce260 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -116,7 +116,11 @@ body.
.. note:: the book instructs you to cut the gore exactly to the middle
of the body: because of the interactions between the sewing
- allowances this gives a seam
+ allowances this results in a side seam that isn't a smooth line at an
+ angle, but has a little vertical step. The precise amount required to
+ give a perfectly straight line would require a complicated formula,
+ but 3-4 cm plus the leeway given by trimming a bit of the allowance,
+ will usually make it good enough.
.. figure:: shift_layout.svg
:align: center
@@ -158,6 +162,15 @@ and hemstitch from the wrong side.
Sleeves
^^^^^^^
+Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the
+sleeve bands by forming box pleats
+
+
+make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to
+distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at
+least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges.
+
+Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve.
Gussets
^^^^^^^
@@ -165,6 +178,11 @@ Gussets
Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
mitering the corners, hemstitch.
+Shoulder Straps
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch.
Finishing
^^^^^^^^^