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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0202-markings.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0202-markings.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e3977e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0202-markings.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0301-marking_eyes.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0301-marking_eyes.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6e2eb1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0301-marking_eyes.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c588be --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..241a32b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..619c24f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_busk.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_busk.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d45ecfb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_busk.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_lacing_stripes.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_lacing_stripes.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77ec0d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/basted_lacing_stripes.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_34_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_34_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..801023a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/corset_34_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst index db1c0a1..2184854 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -1,11 +1,31 @@ Single Layer Midbust Corset =========================== -.. figure:: +.. figure:: corset_34_front.jpg :align: center -This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian -model. +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, non specifically based on an +historical model, but with an outline that is generically suitable for +a good part of the Victorian age. + +It is a single layer with applied boning channels made of tape (or self +fabric): a channel on each seam is used to neaten and reinforce the +seam, so that it can be simply pressed flat for less bulk rather than +requiring more complex finishes. + +The instructions allow for boning channels on either the outside or the +inside of the corset, according to taste. + +Like all corsets, it's not really suitable for beginner sewists, but the +hardest part is taking good measurements, and then it requires more +precision than advanced skills, so an intermediate sewist would probably +be able to do it. + +The instructions assume that it will be sewn by machine: sewing it by +hand would be feasible, but possibly a bit hard on the hands because of +the use of sturdy fabric. Compared to other corset construction methods +this one may require sewing through less layers of coutil, especially if +using tape rather than self fabric for the boning channels. Materials --------- @@ -19,15 +39,21 @@ Notions ^^^^^^^ * strong sewing thread to match the fabric; -* boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral - steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel (precise amounts will depend on the - height of the corset); +* boning: either ~ 14 m 6 - 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 6 - 10 mm + spiral steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel (precise amounts will depend + on the height of the corset); * one steel busk to fit the center front height; -* ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same +* ~ 4 m 25-30 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same amount premade boning channel tape; -* less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* ~ 1 m 15 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* ~ 30 two-parts metal eyelets; * buttonhole twist silk for flossing. +For a double boning channel the tape should be at least double the width +of the boning plus 10 mm, for a single boning channel at least the width +of the boning plus 8 mm; tape that is a bit too wide is better than tape +that is too narrow. + Pattern ------- @@ -84,9 +110,9 @@ these measurements as a double check): ``hip_arc_b`` (G33) ; -Vertical measurements; except for the first one taken straight in the -front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the heights -where the above measurements had been taken: +Vertical measurements; except for the first one they are taken straight +in the front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the +levels where the above measurements had been taken: ``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03) this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and @@ -103,8 +129,10 @@ where the above measurements had been taken: And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: ``reduced_waist_circ`` - this can be the natural waist, a couple of cm less, or more if you so - desire. + this depends on the squishyness and taste of the person: 2-4 cm less + than the natural waist is good if no waist reduction is desired (the + corset should fit snugly on the waist), but more is of course a valid + choice. Pattern ^^^^^^^ @@ -144,53 +172,218 @@ Mockup ^^^^^^ If this is the first time you're making a corset from this pattern it's -strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup: +strongly recommended that you start by making a mockup from a sturdy but +cheap fabric: some cotton canvas or duck is often a good idea, but avoid +anything that is elastic. + +When cutting the panels mark the line of the waist in a way that will be +visible when trying on the mock-up. + +.. figure:: basted_busk.jpg + :align: center + +If this is also the first corset you're making you may want to use it as +practice to insert the busk, otherwise you can cheat and simply baste it +to the edge of the front panel with stripes of scrap fabric. + +Assemble the mock up following the instructions for the corset, keeping +the seam allowances towards the outside, but don't add a waist tape, nor +boning channels over the seams; for better results you may want to add a +boning channel to the middle of each panel (it can just be a strip of +scrap fabric). + +.. figure:: basted_lacing_stripes.jpg + :align: center + +It is also convenient to have a set of lacing stripes: two stripes +of sturdy fabric folded in half with a boning channel near the fold, a +line of closely spaced grommets and another boning channel, pre-laced +with cotton lace, to be basted to the folded back panels with a line of +stitching just outside the boning channel further from the folded edge. + +If you don't have one yet you can fully finish panel 6 with boning +channels and grommets, and then reuse it for your next corset. + +Once the mockup is assembled, try it on when standing up and check: + +* that the size is precisely correct; +* that the seams lie vertically on the body; +* that the waist line correspond to the position of your waist; +* that there are no significant wrinkles (you do need the corset to be + boned to be able to check this); + +then sit down and check that you're not being poked in the legs by the +busk or any other boning. + +If you find that you need to adjust the size, or the position of the +seam between panels 3 and 4, I'd recommend changing the measurements in +the valentina tape file, and generating a new pattern: this way the same +measurement file can be used again for different patterns. + +If you had to do significant changes you may now want to make a second +(and third, and…) mockup, or you can start cutting into the real fabric, +as the wide allowance will still allow for minor adjustments. Cutting ^^^^^^^ -Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 of panels 1 -left, right and right facing (both the center front and the center back -panels will have two layers, everything else will be single layer). +Making sure to follow the grainline, cut 2 each of panels 2-6, 1 each of +panels 1 left, right and right facing (both the center front and the +center back panels will have two layers, everything else will be single +layer). -Note that the pattern is for a corset with internal boning channels: if -making external boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 -pieces. +Note that, assuming that you're marking the fabric from the wrong side, +the pattern is for a corset with external boning channels: if making +internal boning channels you will have to mirror all panel 1 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0202-markings.jpg + :align: center Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. Optionally mark also the center panel line (grainline) if you want to add boning on it. +I'd also recommend marking each panel with its number, whether it's the +right or left panel, and possibly the vertical direction to avoid +mistakes when assembling. + Busk Insertion ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0301-marking_eyes.jpg + :align: center + +Put the eye side of the busk on the wrong side of panel 1 right, aligned +with the center front seam: the eyes that are set closer to each other +than the rest should be at the bottom; mark the position of each eye. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_right_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Put panel 1 right over panel 1 right facing, right sides together, and +sew the center front seam starting from the top and leaving a gap for +every eye. +Press flat, press with right sides out. + +Cut two pieces of waist tape as long as half the circumference of the +waist plus the (finished) width of panels 1 and 6 at the waist. + +.. figure:: 0303-inserting_waist_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the eye side of the busk between the layers, making sure that the +eyes stick out of the openings, wrap one waist tape around it so that +the short end will reach just before the seam between panels 1 and 2, +and carefully pin everything in place. + +.. figure:: 0304-topstitched_right_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch from the right side of the corset, using a zipper foot and +sewing as close as possible to the busk. + +Fold panel 1 left wrong sides together, align it carefully with the +assembled panel 1 right and mark the position where the eyes of the busk +are. +With an awl open holes on each marked position, just as big as necessary +to let the studs of the busk pass through; insert the stud side of the +busk, wrap the other waist tape around it as before and carefully pin in +place. + +Topstitch also this panel from the right side of the corset, using a +zipper foot and sewing as close as possibile to the busk. + Panels ^^^^^^ -Boning -^^^^^^ +If you want your boning channels inside the corset put each panel on the +next right side together, if you are making external boning channels put +the panels wrong side together, so that the allowances will be on the +outside of the corset. -Lacing holes -^^^^^^^^^^^^ +Using relatively short (~ 1 cm) running stitches baste just outside of +the marked line; if you used tailor's tacks remove them so that they +won't get stuck in the seam. -Binding +Sew each seam, press open. + +Fitting ^^^^^^^ -Finishing -^^^^^^^^^ +Fold panel 6, wrong sides together, so that the cut edge alignes with +the seam line with panel 5, press. Machine baste a premade eyelet strip. -Variants --------- +Ideally also baste premade boning channels in the middle of most panels, +and add some boning (temporary boning such as zip ties are fine). -Boning Variant -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +Try the corset on, check the fit. + +Unpick the eyelet strip and temporary boning channels. + +Boning Channels +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Starting from the center front, sew a boning channel on each seam: trim +the sewing allowances so that they are narrower than the tape, center a +piece of tape on the seam so that it covers the waist tape precisely at +waist level, pin it, possibly baste it, and sew it *from the front of +the corset* at 2 mm from each edge and, if it is going to be a double +channel, in the middle. + +Before sewing the channel between panels 5 and 6 make sure to let the +waist tape reach to the fold in panel 6 and go back to the seam, leave +it pinned in place. + +.. note:: + + Sewing from the right side of the corset will result in a neater + seam; for internal boning channels aligning precisely the seam may be + a bit fiddly, and this is where basting will help, to have a precise + reference. + +Also from the front of the corset sew a line 1-2 mm from the fold of the +panel, and then 3 more lines at a distance of 1 mm more than the width +of the flat steel boning from each other. + +Optionally, sew more boning channels to the middle of panels 2-5, using +the same procedure. + +After sewing each channel test it with a piece of boning to check that +it is the right side. + +Binding and Boning +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, sew bias tape to the bottom edge of the corset, +leaving an excess at the center front and back. + +Press towards the inside, folding the excess so that all raw edges are +covered, and hemstitch it closed. + +Cut pieces of spiral steel boning 2 cm shorter than each boning channel +except for the ones in panel 6, finish the ends with end caps and insert +the boning in the channel. + +Cut pieces of flat steel boning 2 cm shorter than the boning channels in +panel 6, sand the ends, wrap them in teflon tape or dip them in plastic +and insert them in the channels. + +Right sides together, sew bias tape also to the top edge of the corset, +being careful not to sew over the boning; press it towards the back and +hemstitch it closed. + +Lacing holes +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Starting at 1 cm on each side of the waist, mark the position for lacing +holes on panel 6 at a distance of 2 cm, reaching to the top and bottom +of the panel. -Instead of having two wide bones per seam, you can use narrower boning -and add an additional bone in the middle of each panel. +Open each hole with an awl, trying not to break the threads in the +fabric, and insert a metal eyelet. -To do so, after you've inserted the busk sew a channel in the middle of -each panel except for the back ones, perpendicular to the waist line, -and then proceed as per the instructions above. +Flossing +^^^^^^^^ Gallery ------- |
