diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/bodices')
-rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst | 77 |
1 files changed, 77 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst index 34033b1..99ec63d 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -20,6 +20,7 @@ Notions * sewing thread to match the fabric; * buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* 2-3 mm cord or yarn suitable for cording; Pattern ------- @@ -55,6 +56,82 @@ Instructions Cutting ^^^^^^^ +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the top lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyeles, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front. + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Cut a lenght of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. Gallery ------- |