diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear')
33 files changed, 1434 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38ea72b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,206 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic tee shirt block</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company>Aldrich</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 3" name="#sleeve_length_jersey"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" 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idObject="23" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="47" mx="-32.3732" my="-0.269134" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e37f05b4-ef2d-471e-9268-9877c9041f5d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="104.935" my="586.319" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="99.881" my="197.124" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="77" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="75" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" before="0" idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="38" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="1" idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>75</record> + <record>77</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="58" mx="-0.133733" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{df253f78-f6bf-4d81-8bd0-ef99b33b515c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="89.7721" my="778.388" 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height="5" letter="D" mx="1388.38" my="555.992" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1373.22" my="262.832" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="81" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="80" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="69" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + 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bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 3" name="#sleeve_length_jersey"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="dotLine"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" 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type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>80</record> + <record>81</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst index 3fc9e55..2cdd67a 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst @@ -1,6 +1,9 @@ Aldrich Drafting System ======================= +Measurements +------------ + The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich <https://openlibrary.org/works/OL16995319W>`_, using @@ -54,3 +57,27 @@ to take these measurements on somebody. +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ | 20 | Sleeve length | L.01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +Basic tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val` + +Easy fitting tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val` + +Tracksuit / fleece jacket block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`tracksuit_block.val` diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0935b63 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,206 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tracksuit, fleece jacket block</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company>Aldrich</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + 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b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 09c1652..8050f18 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ camisole/index liliana_nightgown/index + pajamas_set/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0101-shoulder_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0101-shoulder_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d215d8e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0101-shoulder_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..887176b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg diff --git 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files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b25b85 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0308-casing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0309-elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0309-elastic.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0a02cb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/0309-elastic.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef5454c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,329 @@ +Pajamas set +=========== + +.. figure:: pajamas.jpg + :align: center + +These are relatively fitting jersey pajamas (the nightwear, not the +original Indian trousers) with a V neck and pointed details at the top +hem and long sleeves. + +There are options for long and short sleeves and trousers. + +It is a pretty simple pattern suitable for beginners, where the main +fiddly bit is the point of the V neck, and would be pretty fast to make +for an experienced sewist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Stretch fabric such as cotton jersey, from less than 1.5 m for short + sleeves / trousers up to 4 m for a full set (long + short tops and + trousers). + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* matching sewing thread; +* ~ 20 cm, 1.5 cm wide cotton tape for each top; +* enough elastic 2 cm wide to go around the waist for each bottom; +* optional: scraps of fusible interfacing; +* optional: fabric paint. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + Vertical distance from the waist to the hip, on the side. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L05) + Length of the arm +``height_waist_back`` (A.23) + From the waist to floor, on the back. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + From the waist to the hip, on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina files for the pattern, +:download:`pajamas_top.val` and :download:`pajamas_bottom.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +For both patterns: + +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm to allow for flat felled and / or french seams. + +For the pajamas top: + +``finished_length_side`` + finished length, without the point; +``bottom_point_length`` + length of the point at the center back and front; +``neck_dip_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckhole, in front; +``sleeve_length_jersey`` + 3 cm less than the regular length of the sleeve + (``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``) +``short_sleeve_length`` + to taste, somewhere in the middle of the biceps; +``sleeve_point_length`` + length of the point at the hem of the sleeve. + +For the pajamas bottom: + +``finished_length_long`` + finished length of the long trousers; +``finished_length_short`` + finished length of the short trousers; +``leg_hem_circ`` + circumference of the hem of each leg; +``back_rise`` + how much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve: the default + is calculated based on the difference between waist and hips; + +Instructions +------------ + +When not otherwise specified, all seams should be sewn with an elastic +stitch: either a lightning stitch (if available) or a very narrow +zig-zag. + +Top +^^^ + +Cut one of the front and back pieces, on the fold of fabric; cut two of +your chosen sleeve, also on the fold. The most efficient way is probably +to open the fabric flat, fold in just enough of each side to cut the +front and back, and then cut the sleeves from the remaining center part. + +.. tip:: + + if you plan to decorate your pajamas with fabric paint you may want + to do so at this stage, on the cut pieces, when you don't have to + deal with the rest of the garment. Since the pattern is designed with + a flat block, however, it's not a big deal to wait until it's fully + assembled. + +Also cut the neckhole binding: a cross-grain strip of fabric (along the +direction where it is most elastic), long enough to go around the +neckhole. + +Optionally, if making long sleeves, cut two of the sleeve facing, on the +fold. + +.. tip:: + + You can cut the neckhole binding and the sleeve facings in a + contrasting fabric. + +Cut two pieces of cotton tape as wide as the shoulder seam. + +.. figure:: 0101-shoulder_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the front over the back and align the tape so +that it just covers the shoulder seam line and sew with a straigth +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press everything towards the back and topstitch with a straigth stitch +near the other edge of the tape, enclosing all allowances. + +.. figure:: 0103-neck_binding.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding over the neck, starting from the +center back; sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0104-neck_binding_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press the binding up and fold it over the allowances, enclosing them; +herringbone stitch it by hand on the wrong side. + +.. note:: + + Alternatively you can let the binding overlap a bit over the seam on + the wrong side, and stitch in the ditch by machine. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0104a-neck_binding_v_point.jpg + :align: center + + to make a clean V point in the V neck, after the binding has been + sewn to the body fold it right sides together right at the point and + sew with a backstitch a line 1 cm long that is about 30° from the + fold. Then continue enclosing the allowances, taking care to arrange + it in such a way that it opens at the seam in the front, and the back + is still neat. + +.. figure:: 0105-sleeve_first.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the sleeves over the body, easing the +difference near the top of the sleeve, sew with a 8 mm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0106-sleeve_second.jpg + :align: center + +Turn it so that the right sides are together, sew again with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0107-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides facing, sew the side seams, starting from the sleeve and +going down to the hem, with a 8 mm allowance; turn everything so that +the right sides are facing and sew again with a 1 cm allowance to make a +french seam. + +.. figure:: 0108-sleeve_facing.jpg + :align: center + +If making a long sleeve, right sides together sew the short side of the +facing. + +.. figure:: 0109-sleeve_facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the facing on the sleeve, right sides together, and sew the end of +the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0110-sleeve_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining allowance of the facing towards the wrong side, fold +the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve in such a way that it +peeks out on the right side, and topstitch with an elastic stitch close +to the border and close to the fold. + +If making a short sleeve, fold its bottom edge twice and topstitch it +(ideally with a twin needle). + +.. figure:: 0112-mitering_bottom_first_fold.jpg + :align: center + +To miter the corners in the front and back of the hem, trim about 3 cm +from the point, perpendicularly to the vertical axis, fold the edge +close to the corner once towards the back by 2 cm. + +.. figure:: 0113-mitering_bottom_corner_fold.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the point down so that it will align to the point. + +.. figure:: 0114-mitering_bottom_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +And fold the edges again by 2 cm, making sure that the point is neat. + +.. figure:: 0115-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the rest of the bottom edge twice towards the back and topstitch it +(again ideally with a twin needle) to hem it. + +Bottom +^^^^^^ + +Cut two of the legs, marking the position of the pocket on the right +leg. Also cut one of the pocket. + +.. tip:: + + If the recipent is left-handed you may want to put the pocket on the + left leg. + +.. figure:: 0201-interfacing.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, put scraps of fusible interfacing on the right side of the +fabric right inside the top and bottom corners of the pocket. + +.. figure:: 0202-basted_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket by 1 cm (half the sewing allowance) +towards the wrong side, pin it, fold also all remaining edges by 1 cm +(full allowance) and baste in place. + +.. figure:: 0203-topstitched_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket a second time by 1 cm, topstitch at +8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0304-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the pocket over the right leg, in the position marked on the +pattern, topstitch in place. + +.. figure:: 0305-inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together sew the inseam with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside +out so that they are right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance +to make a french seam. In the next steps these allowances should go +towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0306-crotch_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides together, sew the crotch seam +with a 8 mm allowance, turn right sides together and sew with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0307-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem twice, topstitch (ideally with a twin needle) to hem. + +.. figure:: 0308-casing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top twice, so that the folded edge lies over the seam +line, topstitch (with a twin needle) to form a casing for the elastic, +leaving an opening in the center back. + +.. figure:: 0309-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Measure enough elastic to go snugly around the waist, insert it in the +casing, sew it in a circle and hemstitch the casing closed by hand. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..08e6b40 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..574db80 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val @@ -0,0 +1,171 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Pajamas bottom</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company>EoV</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line 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