diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear')
12 files changed, 457 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 0ed5993..34ee605 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + tops/index trousers/index underwear/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ef686d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c0fa1f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb6a109 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7209312 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a8c05a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..833c533 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e74f762 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7536bb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val @@ -0,0 +1,255 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Fitting jersey top, flat cutting. + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Fitting Jersey Top</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip - 5" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment description="" formula="16" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="block"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" 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<node idObject="62" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="66" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="two" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="110"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>103</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="86" mx="38.3642" my="6.50306" name="long_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{59632df6-007e-40f6-8b98-4034a776263b}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="1313.81" my="356.404" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1312.28" my="168.612" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="75" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="76" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="79" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="80" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="81" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="82" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>99</record> + <record>101</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="98" mx="24.3967" my="-7.50429" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{29930ecd-c8ec-4452-bc80-9b896a52beea}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1322.05" my="333.584" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1324.11" my="145.316" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="90" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="91" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="92" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="96" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..13fced5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +Fitting jersey top +================== + +.. figure:: top.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of +long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric. + +Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern +is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight +merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something +like a cycling shirt. + +In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching +:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric +leftovers you can add a matching +:doc:`../../trousers/underwear/camisole/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m + for short sleeves. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G.04) + circumference around the bust. +``waist_circ`` (G.07) + circumference of the waist. +``hip_circ`` (G.09) + circumference of the hips. +``across_back_b`` (I.08) + width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G.02) + circumference at the base of the neck. +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15) + circumference of the wrist. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19) + length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + depth of the armscye. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01) + from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable: + +``finished_length`` + measured from the nape of the neck, on the back; +``short_sleeve_length`` + desired length of the short sleeve; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be +convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use +that to cut two sleeves flat. + +Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2 +cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give. + +.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the +shoulders. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using + a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on + the machine used. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + +.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the +back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will +get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch. + +.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances +so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight +stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the +tape. + +.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in +the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow +zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam. + +Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't +redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a +bit). + +Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges +and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch. + +Check again that the head passes through. + +.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards + ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side, + remembering to use an elastic stitch. + +.. tip:: + Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the + need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however + postpone the hand stitching until the end. + +.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the +center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams. +Press the seam towards the body. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards +the back. + +.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and +topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag +or a twin needle. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Variants +-------- + +Simpler hems and neckline +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline +finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the +wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3758261 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..01c3afa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +***************** + Tops and Shirts +***************** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + fitting_jersey_top/index + |
