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Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear')
14 files changed, 355 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34a5090 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d97c32f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9f1bb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg diff --git 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a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..993986c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..001963b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..08628ae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfc746c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdba5c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ac4e01 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val @@ -0,0 +1,198 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="de" passmarkLength=""> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Based on the close fitting body block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Camisole</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="" formula="60" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#strap_width"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + 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rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="98" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="99" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="100" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8aeae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ +Camisole +======== + +.. figure:: camisole.jpg + :align: center + +A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric. + +This is an excellent project to use leftovers. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity. + +You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very +narrow. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm underwear elastic +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + Depth of the armscye. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`camisole.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +``finished_length`` + lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual + camisole will be shorter). +``strap_width`` + width of the straps and of the binding for the back. +``seam_allowance`` + enought for flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given +for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric. + +Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear +elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding. + +.. tip:: + When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big + enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the + pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides + together and leaving the allowances on the outside. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a +narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges. +Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag. + +.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece, +pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag. + +.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic. + +.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams +with a narrow zig zag. + +.. tip:: + the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled + seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is + smoother. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back +and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a +narrow zig zag to fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the +side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the +binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating +part. + +.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag +that catches the raw edge. + +Gallery +------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 9059e89..09c1652 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,6 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + camisole/index liliana_nightgown/index |
