diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear')
84 files changed, 4015 insertions, 12 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit index 512f624..512f624 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38ea72b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/basic_tee_shirt_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,206 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic tee shirt block</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company>Aldrich</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 3" name="#sleeve_length_jersey"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="dotLine"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="neck_circ / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="7" id="8" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="9" length="across_back_b / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="9" id="10" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="9" id="11" mx="-2.76197" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="12" length="-0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.557475" my="-1.84863" name="A11" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="13" length="bust_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="13" id="14" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="15" length="neck_circ / 5 - 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <line firstPoint="8" id="16" lineColor="black" secondPoint="12" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" color="black" id="17" length1="2" length2="1.5" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" color="black" id="18" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A7_A11 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="19" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="10" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="180" color="black" id="20" length1="4" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="13" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="21" length="bust_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="21" id="22" length="Line_A_A3 / 2 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="21" id="23" length="#sleeve_length_jersey + 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="22" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <line firstPoint="12" id="24" lineColor="cornflowerblue" secondPoint="13" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" center="21" color="cornflowerblue" id="25" penStyle="hair" radius="Line_A11_A12 + 1.5" type="simple"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="22" curve="25" id="26" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="26" id="29" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="23" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="26" id="30" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" secondPoint="21" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="29" id="31" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="23" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="21" id="32" length="#short_sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" secondPoint="23" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="26" id="33" mx="-2.46908" my="-1.94626" name="A23" secondPoint="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point id="34" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" p1Line1="33" p1Line2="26" p2Line1="32" p2Line2="31" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="225" color="black" id="35" length1="4" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="26" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="180" color="black" id="36" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="21" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="37" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="38" idObject="17" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="39" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="40" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.557475" my="-1.84863" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="41" idObject="19" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="42" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="43" idObject="20" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="44" idObject="13" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="45" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="46" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="48" idObject="15" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="49" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="50" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="51" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.557475" my="-1.84863" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="52" idObject="19" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="53" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="54" idObject="20" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="55" idObject="13" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="56" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="57" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="59" idObject="26" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="60" idObject="35" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="61" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="62" idObject="36" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="63" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="64" idObject="23" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="65" idObject="31" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="67" idObject="26" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="68" idObject="35" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="69" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="70" idObject="36" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="71" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="72" idObject="32" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="73" idObject="34" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="75" idObject="1" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="76" idObject="15" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="77" idObject="3" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="78" idObject="3" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="79" idObject="21" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="80" idObject="21" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="81" idObject="32" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="82" idObject="23" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="47" mx="-32.3732" my="-0.269134" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e37f05b4-ef2d-471e-9268-9877c9041f5d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="104.935" my="586.319" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="99.881" my="197.124" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="77" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="75" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" before="0" idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="38" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="1" idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>75</record> + <record>77</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="58" mx="-0.133733" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{df253f78-f6bf-4d81-8bd0-ef99b33b515c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="89.7721" my="778.388" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="74.6087" my="358.867" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="78" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="76" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" before="0" idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="49" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="1" idObject="50" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="52" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="53" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="54" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="55" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="56" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="57" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>76</record> + <record>78</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="66" mx="1.73853" my="-0.401199" name="long_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{8df80d7e-d07c-40c6-8f05-5e1659666133}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="C" mx="1358.06" my="682.353" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1368.16" my="288.105" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="82" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="79" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="60" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="62" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>79</record> + <record>82</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="22.6009" my="0.267466" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{50f7801c-4597-4605-9d4d-9dfb02412386}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1388.38" my="555.992" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1373.22" my="262.832" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="81" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="80" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="69" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>80</record> + <record>81</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ea632e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,270 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="distance from the natural waist to the waist of the trousers" formula="5" name="#waist_position"/> + <increment description="circumference of the waist *of the trousers*" formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment description="3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + 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<spline aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="180" color="black" id="36" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="21" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="37" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="38" idObject="17" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="39" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="40" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.557475" my="-1.84863" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="41" idObject="19" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="42" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="43" idObject="20" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="44" idObject="13" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="45" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" 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mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="70" idObject="36" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="71" idObject="21" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="72" idObject="32" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="73" idObject="34" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="75" idObject="1" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="76" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="77" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="78" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="79" idObject="21" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="80" idObject="21" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="81" idObject="32" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="82" idObject="23" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="47" mx="-32.3732" my="-0.269134" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e37f05b4-ef2d-471e-9268-9877c9041f5d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="104.935" my="586.319" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="99.881" my="197.124" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="77" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="75" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" before="0" idObject="37" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="38" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="1" idObject="39" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>75</record> + <record>77</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="58" mx="-0.133733" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{df253f78-f6bf-4d81-8bd0-ef99b33b515c}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="89.7721" my="778.388" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" 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before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="57" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>76</record> + <record>78</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="66" mx="1.73853" my="-0.401199" name="long_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{8df80d7e-d07c-40c6-8f05-5e1659666133}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="C" mx="1358.06" my="682.353" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1368.16" my="288.105" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="82" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="79" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="60" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="61" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="62" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="64" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>79</record> + <record>82</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="22.6009" my="0.267466" name="short_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{50f7801c-4597-4605-9d4d-9dfb02412386}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="1388.38" my="555.992" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1373.22" my="262.832" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="81" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="80" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="69" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="70" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>80</record> + <record>81</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst index 3fc9e55..f9262dd 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst @@ -1,6 +1,9 @@ Aldrich Drafting System ======================= +Measurements +------------ + The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich <https://openlibrary.org/works/OL16995319W>`_, using @@ -54,3 +57,43 @@ to take these measurements on somebody. +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ | 20 | Sleeve length | L.01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | +----+-------------------------+------+------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + +.. _aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans: + +Close fitting trouser/jeans block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 54, 55. + +* :download:`close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val` + + +.. _aldrich_block_basic_tee_shirt: + +Basic tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val` + +.. _aldrich_block_easy_fitting_tee_shirt: + +Easy fitting tee shirt +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val` + +.. _aldrich_block_tracksuit_fleece_jacket: + +Tracksuit / fleece jacket block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 186, 187. + +* :download:`tracksuit_block.val` diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0935b63 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/tracksuit_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,206 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Tracksuit, fleece jacket block</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company>Aldrich</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_side_to_hip" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - 3" name="#sleeve_length_jersey"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#short_sleeve_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="dotLine"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#finished_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" 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</draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..63c4d5d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +****************************************** + Contemporary Womenswear Drafting Methods +****************************************** + +Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + aldrich/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 437fa2e..34ee605 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -9,5 +9,7 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + tops/index trousers/index - measurements/index + underwear/index + drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst deleted file mode 100644 index d79a963..0000000 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/index.rst +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -******************************************* - Contemporary Womenswear Measurement Files -******************************************* - -.. toctree:: - :maxdepth: 2 - :caption: Contents: - - aldrich/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ef686d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0101-cutting_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c0fa1f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0201-shoulders.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb6a109 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0202-shoulder_flat.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7209312 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a8c05a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0205-sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..833c533 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0206-side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e74f762 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/0207-hems.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b7536bb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/fitting_jersey_top.val @@ -0,0 +1,255 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Fitting jersey top, flat cutting. + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Fitting Jersey Top</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" 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bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1324.11" my="145.316" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="90" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="91" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="92" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="96" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c88fb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,191 @@ +Fitting jersey top +================== + +.. figure:: top.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple, figure-hugging top with a round neck and a choice of +long or short sleeves, designed for knit fabric. + +Beside being a good, if somewhat boring, wardrobe staple, this pattern +is also suitable for sports- and technical-wear: try it in lightweight +merino jersey as a thermal 1st layer, or in wicking jersey for something +like a cycling shirt. + +In these cases, you may also want to make a pair of matching +:doc:`../../trousers/leggings_shorts/index`, and if you have fabric +leftovers you can add a matching +:doc:`../../underwear/camisole/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m of fabric with a high stretch for a long sleeved top, 1 m + for short sleeves. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm cotton tape, 1 – 1.5 cm wide; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G.04) + circumference around the bust. +``waist_circ`` (G.07) + circumference of the waist. +``hip_circ`` (G.09) + circumference of the hips. +``across_back_b`` (I.08) + width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G.02) + circumference at the base of the neck. +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L.15) + circumference of the wrist. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H.19) + length from the nape of the neck to the waist, on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + depth of the armscye. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L.01) + from the tip of the shoulder to the bent elbow to the wrist. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + distance from the waist to the hip, measured on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`fitting_jersey_top.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following +increments that need to be set; the defaults are reasonable: + +``finished_length`` + measured from the nape of the neck, on the back; +``short_sleeve_length`` + desired length of the short sleeve; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back on the fold; to cut the sleeves it may be +convenient to trace the pattern on the fold of a piece of paper and use +that to cut two sleeves flat. + +Also cut a strip about 4 cm wide and as long as the neck opening plus 2 +cm on the cross-grain or the direction where the fabric has more give. + +.. figure:: 0101-cutting_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Use the pattern for the front to cut the right length of tape for the +shoulders. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + All seams except for the shoulders are sewn with a french seam, using + a narrow zig-zag stitch or another elastic stitch, if available on + the machine used. + + For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm + allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one + side. + + +.. figure:: 0201-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seams: right sides together, put the front over the +back and add the tape so that it's mostly over the allowances but will +get just caught by the seam. Sew with a *straight* stitch. + +.. figure:: 0202-shoulder_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances and the tape towards the back, trim the allowances +so that they are shorter than the tape, and topstitch with a straight +stitch at 8 mm from the first seam, enclosing the raw edges under the +tape. + +.. figure:: 0203-neck_band_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +Put the band over the neck opening, right sides together and starting in +the center back with the raw edge folded back once, sew with a narrow +zig-zag, pulling the fabric a bit to preserve the elasticity in the seam. + +Check that the head can still pass through the neckline; if it doesn't +redo the seam pulling the fabric a bit more (or enlarge the neckline a +bit). + +Press the band and allowances up, fold the band to cover all raw edges +and sew it down by hand with a herringbone stitch. + +Check again that the head passes through. + +.. note:: alternatively, you can fold the allowance down once towards + ther inside and stitch in the ditch by machine from the right side, + remembering to use an elastic stitch. + +.. tip:: + Finishing the neck at this stage will keep it stable, avoiding the + need for stay stitching it; after the first seam you can however + postpone the hand stitching until the end. + +.. figure:: 0205-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the sleeves to the back and front with a french seam, aligning the +center of the sleeve with the shoulder seams. +Press the seam towards the body. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side and sleeve seams with a french seam. Press the seam towards +the back. + +.. figure:: 0207-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the hem of the shirt up towards the inside 2 cm, then again, and +topstitch from the front with an elastic stitch such as a 3-step zig zag +or a twin needle. + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +Variants +-------- + +Simpler hems and neckline +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +If making this as 1st layer, you can make even simpler hems and neckline +finish by cutting them with just 1 cm allowance, folding it towards the +wrong side and top stitching with a 3-step zig-zag. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7cdae76 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/fitting_jersey_top/top.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..01c3afa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +***************** + Tops and Shirts +***************** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + fitting_jersey_top/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ace4ee0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6f637b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3552ec3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0abcf07 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -0,0 +1,877 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="knee circumference: %finalMeasurement_knee_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="crutch ease: %finalMeasurement_crutch_ease% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#crutch_ease" name="crutch_ease"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_knee_width * 2" name="knee_circ"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_depth"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#waist_position"/> + <increment formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment formula="#jeans_bottom_width + 4" name="#jeans_knee_width"/> + <increment description="3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#hips_ease"/> + <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/> + <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/> + <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/> + <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/> + <increment formula="8" name="#coin_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="10" name="#coin_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#back_pocket_point_depth"/> + <increment formula="0.5" name="#back_pocket_raster"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="jeans"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" 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reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="194" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="196" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="197" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>200</record> + <record>371</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="230" mx="43.0127" my="-6.98009" name="back_yoke" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{94e22e5c-fcf4-4810-9826-4fd369810633}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="I" mx="380.783" my="98.5557" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="-26.8788" my="0" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="236" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="235" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="223" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="224" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="225" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="226" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="228" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="229" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>235</record> + <record>236</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="256" mx="48.6437" my="-38.8041" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{527a0e85-4faf-4d08-88c8-dbb65d45cd65}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="8" letter="J" mx="377.129" my="369.44" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="8"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="8" mx="62.8548" my="364.202" rotation="0" visible="true" width="8"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="259" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="258" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="251" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="252" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="253" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="254" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="255" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>258</record> + <record>259</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="316" inLayout="false" mx="21.0743" my="32.8712" name="shaped_waistband" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{81da4b94-5b76-49bf-8a87-2be10cff1848}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="L" mx="48.9348" my="3827.08" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="-217.488" my="3827.08" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="296" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="297" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="298" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="299" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="300" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="301" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="302" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="303" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="304" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="305" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="306" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="307" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="308" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="309" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="310" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="311" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="312" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="313" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="314" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="315" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="319"/> + <record path="322"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="340" mx="0" my="0.863156" name="waistband" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7a60e787-7551-4600-a6ef-f2cbe9d939b1}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="K" mx="521.971" my="3992.99" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="103.307" my="3998.42" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="331" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="332" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="333" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="334" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="335" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="336" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="337" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="338" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="339" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="343"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="352" mx="-20.9868" my="-2.00376" name="fly_extension" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7890f179-b3e3-4d27-843c-8f09dc4c9dbb}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="G" mx="-244.128" my="387.849" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-230.405" my="261.98" rotation="0" visible="true" width="3"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="373" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="372" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="370" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="368" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="0" idObject="348" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="349" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="350" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="351" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>372</record> + <record>373</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="362" mx="-23.1365" my="-130.579" name="coin_pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7571a314-782f-41d8-8145-10642a70705b}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="H" mx="83.8514" my="4455.02" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="83.8514" my="4275.34" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="358" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="359" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="360" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="361" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups> + <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="false"> + <item tool="51"/> + <item tool="53"/> + <item tool="55"/> + <item tool="61"/> + <item tool="62"/> + <item tool="73"/> + <item tool="74"/> + <item tool="75"/> + <item tool="76"/> + <item tool="103"/> + </group> + <group id="201" name="fly_piece" visible="true"> + <item tool="140"/> + <item tool="141"/> + <item tool="142"/> + <item tool="363"/> + <item tool="364"/> + </group> + <group id="202" name="pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="130"/> + <item tool="131"/> + <item tool="132"/> + <item tool="133"/> + <item tool="134"/> + <item tool="135"/> + <item tool="136"/> + <item tool="137"/> + <item tool="138"/> + <item tool="139"/> + <item tool="148"/> + <item tool="150"/> + <item tool="158"/> + </group> + <group id="231" name="back_yoke" visible="false"> + <item tool="211"/> + <item tool="212"/> + <item tool="213"/> + <item tool="214"/> + <item tool="215"/> + <item object="217" tool="216"/> + <item object="218" tool="216"/> + <item tool="221"/> + <item tool="222"/> + <item tool="232"/> + </group> + <group id="283" name="back_pocket" visible="false"> + <item tool="237"/> + <item tool="238"/> + <item tool="239"/> + <item tool="240"/> + <item tool="241"/> + <item tool="242"/> + <item tool="243"/> + <item tool="257"/> + </group> + <group id="293" name="curved_waistband" tool="284" visible="false"> + <item object="267" tool="266"/> + <item object="268" tool="266"/> + <item object="269" tool="266"/> + <item object="270" tool="266"/> + <item object="271" tool="266"/> + <item object="273" tool="272"/> + <item object="274" tool="272"/> + <item object="275" tool="272"/> + <item tool="276"/> + <item tool="277"/> + <item tool="278"/> + <item tool="279"/> + <item tool="280"/> + <item tool="281"/> + <item tool="282"/> + <item object="285" tool="284"/> + <item object="286" tool="284"/> + <item object="287" tool="284"/> + <item object="288" tool="284"/> + <item object="289" tool="284"/> + <item object="290" tool="284"/> + <item object="291" tool="284"/> + <item object="292" tool="284"/> + <item tool="294"/> + <item tool="295"/> + </group> + </groups> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6e1e2bd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,210 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + + .. figure:: jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg + :align: center + +These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear +:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`, +drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on +the front. + +The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can +be adjusted to go to the natural waist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; +* 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won’t show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to + sit; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the hips; +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + vertical distance from Waist to Hip; +``rise_length_side`` (N08) + vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level; +``height_waist_back`` (A23) + height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back, + going over the buttocks; + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following +increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position`` +(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly +the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people +you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance`` +and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be +generally fine: + +``waistband_depth`` + height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm; +``waist_position`` + the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans: + the drafting system suggested 5 cm; +``waist_circ`` + the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to + ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide + as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle; +``jeans_knee_width`` + width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem, + but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite + narrow; +``front_curve_distance`` + 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise; +``back_curve_distance`` + 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise; +``crutch_ease`` + 5 or 6 cm; +``hips_ease`` + added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in + the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``coin_pocket_width`` + how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm; +``coin_pocket_depth`` + how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams. + +After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and +A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs. + +Instructions +------------ + +Follow the instructions for the +Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`. + +.. tip:: + + If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block + used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`, + as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the + measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the + jeans pattern. + +When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic +at the center back, just like the two on the side seams. +Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two +pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the +straight waistband, skipping the elastic. + +Variants +-------- + +Shaped Waistband +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a straight waistband shaped with elastic you can make a +shaped waistband: cut two of that part instead of the straight +waistband, and when you get to that stage do as follows. + +.. tip:: If you need to piece the waistband you can do it on the center + back, sew the two pieces wrong sides together and then flat fell the + seam. In that case make sure to flat fell the outer waistband and the + waistband facing in the opposite directions, to reduce bulk; you may + also want to flat fell the outer waistband in the same direction as + that of the back seam of the trousers, but this is just to make it + look nicer. + +.. figure:: 0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the outer waistband to the jeans, matching all +notches to the seam lines. Press the allowances up. + +.. tip:: To help with selecting the right piece: make sure that you're + sewing the widest side of the waistband, and that the side with the + straight bit goes where the placket extension is. Don't ask me how I + needed this :D + +.. figure:: 0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the waistband facing on the outer facing and +sew all 3 remaining edges. + +Press inside out; you may want to clip the corners, and if needed clip +and notch the curved edges, but don't trim the allowances, as they are +used to give more body to the waistband. + +.. figure:: 0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the remaining edge up, enclosing all allowances, and topstitch at +2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four edges. + +Gallery +------- + +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post about the drafting and wearable mockup of this pattern + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0afe62 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst index ffb0630..eec09f8 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -6,5 +6,6 @@ :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + basic_jeans/index leggings_shorts/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst index 531f9d1..3d8ed50 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ Pattern Measurements ^^^^^^^^^^^^ -This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. You need to take the following measurements: @@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ You need to take the following measurements: ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is the deepest. -the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. Pattern diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34a5090 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0201-binding_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d97c32f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9f1bb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0203-elastic.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd6870d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0204-elastic_finished.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..53bd723 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0205-side_seams.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e67034 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0206-side_seams_felled.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..993986c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0207-straps.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..001963b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0208-straps_folded.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..08628ae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0209-straps_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bfc746c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/0210-hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdba5c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ac4e01 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/camisole.val @@ -0,0 +1,198 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="de" passmarkLength=""> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Based on the close fitting body block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Camisole</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="" formula="60" name="#finished_length"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#strap_width"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + 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idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0" idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="101" mx="0" my="6.51062" name="straps" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b7bc1f74-0b07-4d67-b75b-c3c7a6d27ce8}" version="2" width="#strap_width"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="C" mx="136.266" my="-35.109" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="2"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="55.6877" my="-36.8669" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="98" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="99" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="100" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e8aeae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/camisole/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,156 @@ +Camisole +======== + +.. figure:: camisole.jpg + :align: center + +A simple camisole, designed for knit fabric. + +This is an excellent project to use leftovers. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~ 60 cm knit fabric with good elasticity. + +You probably won't need the full width of the fabric, unless it is very +narrow. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* ~20 cm underwear elastic +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` (H.21) + Depth of the armscye. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`camisole.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +``finished_length`` + lenght of the finished garment *from the nape of the neck* (the actual + camisole will be shorter). +``strap_width`` + width of the straps and of the binding for the back. +``seam_allowance`` + enought for flat felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front and back pieces: they are identical, but both are given +for convenience when arranging the pattern on fabric. + +Cut also two straps, a facing for the back and a piece of underwear +elastic 4 cm shorter than the binding. + +.. tip:: + When using fabric leftovers, if you don't have a piece that is big + enough you can add a seam at the center of the one or two of the + pieces; flat fell like the side seams, starting with the wrong sides + together and leaving the allowances on the outside. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-binding_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding on the back piece, sew with a +narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0202-binding_finished_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, then fold the binding towards the back to cover the raw edges. +Sew over the remaining raw edge of the facing with a 3-step zigzag. + +.. figure:: 0203-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the elastic on the top of the front piece, +pulling the elastic to fit the neckline, sew with a 3-step zig-zag. + +.. figure:: 0204-elastic_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press up, topstitch with a 3-step elastic. + +.. figure:: 0205-side_seams.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back, sew the side seams +with a narrow zig zag. + +.. tip:: + the front and back are sewn wrong sides together so that the felled + seam is on the outside, and the part that touches the skin is + smoother. + +.. figure:: 0206-side_seams_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the back, trim the allowance of the back +and fold that of the front to cover the raw edges, topstitch with a +narrow zig zag to fell the seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-straps.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the straps over the armholes, starting at the +side seam and leaving the excess floating, sew with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0208-straps_folded.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0209-straps_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the straps outwards and over the raw edge like you did with the +binding, sew with a 3-step zig zag continuing also over the floating +part. + +.. figure:: 0210-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold up the hem 2 cm towards the inside, topstitch with a 3-step zig zag +that catches the raw edge. + +Gallery +------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8050f18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +************************* + Underwear and nightwear +************************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + camisole/index + liliana_nightgown/index + pajamas_set/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7532ee9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c29126 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0102-yoke_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe4a6d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0301-seam_alignment.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97ad392 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3aea0eb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0303-top_edge_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e89c0d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6751a0d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19fa22c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0307-sleeve_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2155f02 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0308-pinned_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0398dfd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f64962e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..47bdac6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,219 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns +with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole +extended family. + +While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance +to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can +definitely be used as one. + +Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted +yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the +shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight +seams and just a few pleats for shaping. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton + or linen fabric. + +In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course +white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's +underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and +cheaper options are fine). + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if +used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1 +– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have +been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2 +– 2.5 mm hook. + +Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below): + for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is + recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the + sides. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom + it's completely made of empty squares. + +.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg + :align: center + + The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the + bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in + the middle of it. + +Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + + Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical, + and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the + back. + +.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the +center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points +of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides; +distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making +pleats that face towards the center back. + +Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker + yarn and the body in white ramie. diff --git 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b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,329 @@ +Pajamas set +=========== + +.. figure:: pajamas.jpg + :align: center + +These are relatively fitting jersey pajamas (the nightwear, not the +original Indian trousers) with a V neck and pointed details at the top +hem and long sleeves. + +There are options for long and short sleeves and trousers. + +It is a pretty simple pattern suitable for beginners, where the main +fiddly bit is the point of the V neck, and would be pretty fast to make +for an experienced sewist. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Stretch fabric such as cotton jersey, from less than 1.5 m for short + sleeves / trousers up to 4 m for a full set (long + short tops and + trousers). + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* matching sewing thread; +* ~ 20 cm, 1.5 cm wide cotton tape for each top; +* enough elastic 2 cm wide to go around the waist for each bottom; +* optional: scraps of fusible interfacing; +* optional: fabric paint. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + Vertical distance from the waist to the hip, on the side. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L05) + Length of the arm +``height_waist_back`` (A.23) + From the waist to floor, on the back. +``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20) + From the waist to the hip, on the side. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina files for the pattern, +:download:`pajamas_top.val` and :download:`pajamas_bottom.val`. + +You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of +Variables; the defaults are sensible. + +For both patterns: + +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm to allow for flat felled and / or french seams. + +For the pajamas top: + +``finished_length_side`` + finished length, without the point; +``bottom_point_length`` + length of the point at the center back and front; +``neck_dip_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckhole, in front; +``sleeve_length_jersey`` + 3 cm less than the regular length of the sleeve + (``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``) +``short_sleeve_length`` + to taste, somewhere in the middle of the biceps; +``sleeve_point_length`` + length of the point at the hem of the sleeve. + +For the pajamas bottom: + +``finished_length_long`` + finished length of the long trousers; +``finished_length_short`` + finished length of the short trousers; +``leg_hem_circ`` + circumference of the hem of each leg; +``back_rise`` + how much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve: the default + is calculated based on the difference between waist and hips; + +Instructions +------------ + +When not otherwise specified, all seams should be sewn with an elastic +stitch: either a lightning stitch (if available) or a very narrow +zig-zag. + +Top +^^^ + +Cut one of the front and back pieces, on the fold of fabric; cut two of +your chosen sleeve, also on the fold. The most efficient way is probably +to open the fabric flat, fold in just enough of each side to cut the +front and back, and then cut the sleeves from the remaining center part. + +.. tip:: + + if you plan to decorate your pajamas with fabric paint you may want + to do so at this stage, on the cut pieces, when you don't have to + deal with the rest of the garment. Since the pattern is designed with + a flat block, however, it's not a big deal to wait until it's fully + assembled. + +Also cut the neckhole binding: a cross-grain strip of fabric (along the +direction where it is most elastic), long enough to go around the +neckhole. + +Optionally, if making long sleeves, cut two of the sleeve facing, on the +fold. + +.. tip:: + + You can cut the neckhole binding and the sleeve facings in a + contrasting fabric. + +Cut two pieces of cotton tape as wide as the shoulder seam. + +.. figure:: 0101-shoulder_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the front over the back and align the tape so +that it just covers the shoulder seam line and sew with a straigth +stitch. + +.. figure:: 0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press everything towards the back and topstitch with a straigth stitch +near the other edge of the tape, enclosing all allowances. + +.. figure:: 0103-neck_binding.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the binding over the neck, starting from the +center back; sew with 1 cm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0104-neck_binding_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press the binding up and fold it over the allowances, enclosing them; +herringbone stitch it by hand on the wrong side. + +.. note:: + + Alternatively you can let the binding overlap a bit over the seam on + the wrong side, and stitch in the ditch by machine. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0104a-neck_binding_v_point.jpg + :align: center + + to make a clean V point in the V neck, after the binding has been + sewn to the body fold it right sides together right at the point and + sew with a backstitch a line 1 cm long that is about 30° from the + fold. Then continue enclosing the allowances, taking care to arrange + it in such a way that it opens at the seam in the front, and the back + is still neat. + +.. figure:: 0105-sleeve_first.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the sleeves over the body, easing the +difference near the top of the sleeve, sew with a 8 mm allowance. + +.. figure:: 0106-sleeve_second.jpg + :align: center + +Turn it so that the right sides are together, sew again with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0107-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides facing, sew the side seams, starting from the sleeve and +going down to the hem, with a 8 mm allowance; turn everything so that +the right sides are facing and sew again with a 1 cm allowance to make a +french seam. + +.. figure:: 0108-sleeve_facing.jpg + :align: center + +If making a long sleeve, right sides together sew the short side of the +facing. + +.. figure:: 0109-sleeve_facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the facing on the sleeve, right sides together, and sew the end of +the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0110-sleeve_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining allowance of the facing towards the wrong side, fold +the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve in such a way that it +peeks out on the right side, and topstitch with an elastic stitch close +to the border and close to the fold. + +If making a short sleeve, fold its bottom edge twice and topstitch it +(ideally with a twin needle). + +.. figure:: 0112-mitering_bottom_first_fold.jpg + :align: center + +To miter the corners in the front and back of the hem, trim about 3 cm +from the point, perpendicularly to the vertical axis, fold the edge +close to the corner once towards the back by 2 cm. + +.. figure:: 0113-mitering_bottom_corner_fold.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the point down so that it will align to the point. + +.. figure:: 0114-mitering_bottom_pinned.jpg + :align: center + +And fold the edges again by 2 cm, making sure that the point is neat. + +.. figure:: 0115-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the rest of the bottom edge twice towards the back and topstitch it +(again ideally with a twin needle) to hem it. + +Bottom +^^^^^^ + +Cut two of the legs, marking the position of the pocket on the right +leg. Also cut one of the pocket. + +.. tip:: + + If the recipent is left-handed you may want to put the pocket on the + left leg. + +.. figure:: 0201-interfacing.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, put scraps of fusible interfacing on the right side of the +fabric right inside the top and bottom corners of the pocket. + +.. figure:: 0202-basted_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket by 1 cm (half the sewing allowance) +towards the wrong side, pin it, fold also all remaining edges by 1 cm +(full allowance) and baste in place. + +.. figure:: 0203-topstitched_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the pocket a second time by 1 cm, topstitch at +8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0304-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +Put the pocket over the right leg, in the position marked on the +pattern, topstitch in place. + +.. figure:: 0305-inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together sew the inseam with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside +out so that they are right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance +to make a french seam. In the next steps these allowances should go +towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0306-crotch_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides together, sew the crotch seam +with a 8 mm allowance, turn right sides together and sew with a 1 cm +allowance to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0307-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem twice, topstitch (ideally with a twin needle) to hem. + +.. figure:: 0308-casing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top twice, so that the folded edge lies over the seam +line, topstitch (with a twin needle) to form a casing for the elastic, +leaving an opening in the center back. + +.. figure:: 0309-elastic.jpg + :align: center + +Measure enough elastic to go snugly around the waist, insert it in the +casing, sew it in a circle and hemstitch the casing closed by hand. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..08e6b40 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..574db80 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/pajamas_bottom.val @@ -0,0 +1,171 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Pajamas bottom</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company>EoV</company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="height_waist_back - 7" name="#finished_length_long"/> + <increment formula="height_waist_side_to_hip + 30" name="#finished_length_short"/> + <increment description="circumference of the hem for long trousers" formula="hip_circ / 3" name="#leg_hem_circ"/> + <increment description="How much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve" formula="(hip_circ - waist_circ) * 0.15" name="#back_rise"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#elastic_width"/> + 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