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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst index cf4e154..6443484 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst @@ -10,5 +10,6 @@ breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + tops/index leisurewear/index accessories/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..213df9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +****** + Tops +****** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d959a83 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0101-gusset_flat.jpg diff --git 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b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,258 @@ +Low Waste Elastic Neck Top +========================== + +.. figure:: top_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a simple top made of rectangles with a gathered neckline (and +optionally cuffs) that can be optionally worn off-the shoulders. + +It's a pretty quick and easy project that can be sewn by hand or by machine. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m lightweight shirt material (cotton, linen, viscose…). + +Because of the gathering, this pattern will require a pretty +lightweight, woven material. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* about 60 cm good looking elastic; +* sewing thread to match the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +After straightening the cuts, measure your fabric; you can draw the +pattern directly on the fabric, or make a scale drawing on paper first. + +The fit of this garment is given mostly by the gathering, so the pattern +dimensions don't have to be precise and depend mostly on the size of the +available fabric. + +.. figure:: top.svg + :align: center + +For fabric that is at least 140 cm wide, you can use the cutting scheme +in the image above. + +Measure the length of the sleeves, from the tip of the shoulder to the +wrist, following the bent arm. Add as much extra length you want and +measure this in the width of the fabric. +The remaining width of the fabric will be the width of the front and +back pieces: check that it is enough to go around the widest part of the +body (bust, waist/belly or hips) with at least 40 cm ease + +Divide the fabric on this measurement; divide the part with the front +and back pieces in two, of equal length. + +Measure around the top of the arm, add quite some ease, and make this +the width of the sleeve; for an average arm something like 50 cm are a +good starting measure, but feel free to go wider. + +From the remaining part of the fabric cut enough stripes for the casing +to go around the top of the body and the sleeves, 3 cm plus two sewing +allowances high, and two square gussets for the sleeves with a side +between 20 and 30 cm. +Finally cut four small square gussets for the neck, with a side of +around 4 – 5 cm, and cut them on the diagonal to make eight right +triangles. + +.. figure:: narrow_fabric.svg + :align: center + +For narrower fabric or bigger pieces you can cut the sleeves from the +full width of the fabric; the casing and the gussets can be cut from any +remaining width beside the front and back. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces taking care to follow the straight grain: depending on +the fabric you may rip it or pull out a thread and follow that. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-gusset_flat.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, align one side of a gusset to the top of the +sleeve so that the gusset extends by one seam allowance, sew with a bit +less than half of the allowance. + +.. figure:: 0102-gusset_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the gusset to that it makes a right triangle under the arm, put it +on the other side of the sleeve, wrong sides together and sew with a bit +less than half of the allowance starting from the gusset and continuing +with the length of the sleeve. + +.. tip:: if sewing by machine you will want to stop at the point of the + gusset, and start again the sleeve seam (or the side seam below); you + may also want to stop a bit before the actual gusset point, and then + sew it close by hand, for the best accuracy. + +.. figure:: 0103-sleeve_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Press, turn the sleeve inside out, with right sides together, and sew +again the same seams with a bit more than the allowance, starting with +one side of the gusset and continuing with the other side of the gusset +and down the length of the sleeve to make a french seam. + +Repeat for the other sleeve. + +.. tip:: if the pattern can only be matched between the gusset and the + sleeve on one side, make sure to do it symmetrically on the two + sleeves, so that the matching part can go on the front. + +Body +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sleeve_on_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the gusset part of the sleeve on the front body piece, wrong sides +together, so that the top of the body aligns with the seam between the +gusset and the sleeve. Sew the gusset to the front with a bit less than +the seam allowance. + +.. figure:: 0202-sleeve_between_front_and_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back body piece wrong sides together over the remaining gusset +edge, again aligning the top of the body to the seam between gusset and +sleeve, and sew with a bit less than the seam allowance starting from +the gusset and then continuing sewing the back to the front down the +side of the body. + +.. figure:: 0203-side_french_seamed.jpg + :align: center + +Press, turn inside out, with right sides together, sew again the same +seams, first the gusset to the front, then the gusset to the back, +continuing down with the side seam, to make a french seam. + +.. figure:: 0204-main_shape_of_the_top.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0205-neck_gusset_front.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down and press the straight grain edges of a neck gusset, put it +over a corner between the body and the sleeve, wrong side of the gusset +on the right side of the garment; topstitch or applique stitch it down. + +.. figure:: 0206-neck_gusset_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down and press the straight grain edges of another neck gusset, put +it wrong sides together over the gusset you've just applied and +hemstitch it down, covering the right edges of the garment. Leave the +bias edge free, as it will be covered by the casing. + +Repeat with the four other gussets. + +Casing +^^^^^^ + +Sew the stripes for the casing together into a long strip. + +.. figure:: 0301-casing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Hem one edge of the casing and put it right sides together on the top +edge, starting from the center front; sew all around until you almost +reach the center front, cut and hem the other end and finish sewing. + +.. tip:: if sewing by hand you can also start sewing the individual + strips to the body, joining them as needed just before you reach the + end of each piece. + This can be useful if you need to match a pattern. + +.. figure:: 0302-casing_finished.jpg + :align: center + + The casing over the front and back + +.. figure:: 0303-casing_over_neck_gussets.jpg + :align: center + + The casing over the neck gussets and sleeves + +Press the casing up, fold it in half towards the back, press the raw +edge up and hemstitch it to the back, covering all raw edges. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-rolled_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the bottom of the front and back twice towards the wrong side to +make a narrow hem, either topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, or +make a rolled hem by hand. + +Use the same technique to make a hem on the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0402-elastic_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of elastic as long as you want the (widest) neckline to be, +plus 40 cm; thread it through the casing, gathering the neckline, and +close it with a knot in the front. + +Variants +-------- + +Gathered cuffs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To make gathered cuffs, fold back the edges of the sleeves by 1 cm twice +towards the wrong side; hemstitch down to make a casing leaving 1.5 cm +not sewn. + +Cut enough elastic to go easily around the wrist plus allowance, thread +it into the casing, sew it into a loop and finally close the casing. + +This works best with sleeves that have been made extra long. + +Ruffle-look casing +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To add a small ruffle to the neckline, cut the casing strips a bit +higher, maybe 8-9 cm plus two sewing allowances. + +Attach them to the top like in the instructions above, then sew a +straight seam just above the raw edges and another one 1 cm above that +and insert the elastic between these two seams. + +Gallery +------- + +For reference, with a bust size of 84 cm, this top was made with fronts +and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm gussets. + +.. figure:: top_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: off_the_shoulders.jpg + :align: center + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..04e522b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/narrow_fabric.svg @@ -0,0 +1,226 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created 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