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Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_unisex/headwear')
23 files changed, 576 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..914ea26 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/cap.val @@ -0,0 +1,123 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Cap with ear flaps</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="head.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="How wide the visor should be, as an angle, halved" formula="75" name="#visor_half_angle"/> + <increment formula="7" name="#visor_depth"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#ease"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="cap"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="2" length="(head_circ + #ease) / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.344208" my="-1.58968" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="3" id="4" length="@head_ear_to_ear / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="240" color="black" id="5" length1="8" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="4" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="300" angle2="90" color="black" id="6" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="4" point4="2" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point id="10" length="4" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" showLabel="true" spline="5" type="cutSpline"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="0" color="black" id="11" length1="2" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="3" point4="10" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="270 - #visor_half_angle" angle2="270 + #visor_half_angle" center="2" color="black" id="13" penStyle="hair" radius="(head_circ + #ease) / acos(-1) / 2" type="simple"/> + <point angle="270 - #visor_half_angle" basePoint="2" curve="13" id="14" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270 + #visor_half_angle" basePoint="2" curve="13" id="17" lineColor="black" mx="0.202093" my="0.334384" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="2" curve="13" id="20" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A8" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="20" id="23" length="-#visor_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A9" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="280" angle2="0" color="black" id="24" length1="12" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="17" point4="23" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="260" color="black" id="25" length1="5.89414" length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="23" point4="14" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="26" length="Line_A_A1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="27" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="27" id="28" length="(@head_circ_chin_to_crown - @head_ear_to_ear) / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" color="black" id="29" length1="8" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="2" point4="28" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" color="black" id="30" length1="2" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="28" point4="26" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="31" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="32" idObject="5" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="33" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="34" idObject="6" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="35" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="40" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <arc id="41" idObject="13" inUse="false" type="modeling"/> + <point id="42" idObject="17" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="43" idObject="24" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="44" idObject="23" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="45" idObject="25" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="47" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="48" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="49" idObject="28" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="50" idObject="30" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="51" idObject="26" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="crown" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b16dac7c-6e27-4a68-8a18-3423c4d66a79}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="A" mx="128.31" my="-197.083" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="6" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="126.203" my="-348.844" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="32" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="34" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="46" mx="0.0691619" my="0" name="visor" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{841e3a26-ff95-43e4-bfac-29f05a88cfee}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="366.394" my="408.284" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Interlining, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="195.663" my="408.284" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="40" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="41" reverse="0" type="NodeArc"/> + <node idObject="42" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="43" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="44" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="45" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="52" mx="0" my="0" name="ear_flap" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{824da3a4-1963-40d5-9cc5-56a9b38c4d54}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="C" mx="521.114" my="-203.168" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mLining%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="521.114" my="-348.606" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="47" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="48" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="50" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f382551 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/head.vit @@ -0,0 +1,20 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.0.0a (https://valentinaproject.bitbucket.io/).--> + <version>0.5.0</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="head_circ" value="56"/> + <m description="From chin to crown of head back to chin, passing above ears." full_name="Head: Circumference around chin and crown" name="@head_circ_chin_to_crown" value="62"/> + <m description="From one ear to top of head to the other ear." full_name="Head: ear to ear" name="@head_ear_to_ear" value="32"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1acabe8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/cap_with_ear_flaps/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,161 @@ +Cap with ear flaps +================== + +.. figure:: + :align: center + +Materials +--------- + +* 20 cm outer fabric; +* 20 cm lining; +* 20 cm sturdy sew-in interfacing for the visor; +* 40 cm millinery wire for the visor; +* optional, 60 cm tape; +* sewing thread. + + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern: :download:`cap.val`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``head_circ`` + circumference of the head; +``head_circ_chin_to_crown`` + from chin to crown of head back to chin, passing above ears; +``head_ear_to_ear`` + From one ear to top of head to the other ear. + +The file :download:`head.vit` has the required measurements. + +You may also want to check the following increments: + +``visor_half_angle`` + how wide the visor should be, as an angle, halved; +``visor_depth`` + length of the visor in the front; +``ease`` + total ease around the head, to allow for the bulk of fabric; increase + to at least 2 cm for thicker fabric. + +The defaults should be otherwise fine. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as instructed on the pattern: + +* 6 head segments in both fabric and lining; +* 2 ear flaps in both fabric and lining; +* 2 visors in just fabric; +* 2 visors in interfacing, *without sewing allowance*. + +If the interfacing isn't very strong you may want to cut 4, with the +inner two a tiny bit smaller than the outer two. + +Visor +^^^^^ + +Put the the interfacing pieces on top of each other, sew some rows +parallel to the outer edge, to reinforce the visor. + +Cut a piece of millinery wire 4 cm shorter than the outer edge, +whipstitch it to the interfacing. + +Right sides together, put the fabric visor pieces on top of each other, +sew the outer edge. + +Turn inside out and press. + +Insert the interfacing in the visor. + +Optionally topstitch the visor near the seam, just inside the millinery +wire. + +.. note:: variant + + Instead of sewing the interfacing by machine and leaving it floating + in the visor, you can padstitch the interfacing to the bottom fabric. + +Ear Flaps +^^^^^^^^^ + +Put one ear flap lining on top of one ear flap fabric, right sides +together, sew all around the curved edge. + +.. note:: variant + + Put a 30 cm piece of ribbon inside the ear flap, so that it gets + caught in the seam at the tip. + +Trim and clip the allowance, press and turn inside out. + +Optionally topstitch at 1 mm from the edge. + +Crown +^^^^^ + +After sewing each seam in the crown, notch the curves and trim the +allowance near the tip before pressing the seam open. + +Put two fabric crown pieces on each other, right sides together, sew the right +hand seam starting from one sewing allowance from the top. + +Put a third fabric crown piece under the right side, right sides +together, sew the right hand seam making sure to start in the same +position as the previous seam. + +Repeat with all other fabric and lining pieces. + +Put the two halves of the fabric crown on each other, right sides +together, and sew the two remaining seams starting from the top and +going down to the edge. Repeat with the lining. + +.. tip:: doing this seam in one go, from edge to edge, may be tempting, + but will result in a less neat tip. + +After pressing the last two seams, if needed sew the very center closed +by hand on both the fabric and the lining. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Put the visor over the fabric crown, right sides together and centered +on one of the seams, sew but don't press the seam yet. + +Put the eae flaps over the fabric crown, right sides together, centered +on the first two segments after the visor, sew. + +Press all seams up, towards the inside of the cap. + +Press the allowance of the lining towards the wrong side, folding it 1-2 +mm larger than the allowance in the fabric. + +Wrong sides together, put the lining inside the cap and applique-stitch +it, catching just the allowance of the main fabric, so that the stitches +don't show outside. + +Optionally, put a self fabric covered button at the top of the cap to +hide the point where the seams meet. + +Variants +-------- + +Deerstalker Hat +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Reversible Hat +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..de1a82f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..81da39f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77c7c6b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eb8a329 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0104-whipstitching_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3def06c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0105-thread_bar.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45cef7f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..73a6e3e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..60e9481 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,116 @@ +Hood Scarf +========== + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +For all of your post-apocalyptic (or cosplaying) needs, a pattern for a +very simple hood-scarf. + +This is a zero-waste pattern, resulting in a square hood. + +It is a quick and easy project, suitable for handsewing even with the +limited kit you've been able to grab just before the Fall of +Civilization (finding the materials is left as an exercise to the +reader), but can also be mostly machine sewn. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of a light to mid weight fabric; wool, silk or linen are + good choices, on a scale from cold to warm weather. + +Two scarves of the same size, at least 30 cm wide and 120 cm long can +also be used: in this case there won't be a need to hem the long edges. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Sewing thread to match the fabric; +* optional: thicker thread to make a thread bar. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the scarf, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. + +Cut two rectangles of fabric as high as the measurement above plus 2-4 +cm for hemming allowance and using the full width of the fabric, +keeping the selvedges. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-top_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two pieces right sides together and sew one short edge with a +running backstitch (by hand) or by machine. Press open. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0102-curved_seam.jpg + :align: center + + Optionally you may want to curve down the seam a little towards the + back to avoid a sharp point. + +.. figure:: 0103-hemming_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the long sides: fold them down twice towards the wrong sides, sew +with a hemstitch by hand or topstitch by machine. + +.. figure:: 0104-whipstitching_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the scarf in half, right sides together; starting from the top +measure the width of the scarf and whipstitch the back seam for that +length. + +.. tip:: + + This last seam is easier to do by hand; if you want to use a machine + you may want to lay the two halves side by side and topstitch with a + zig-zag stitch, but the area near the top seam will be quite fussy. + +.. tip:: + + Before finishing this last seam with a knot check the hood for fit, + and if necessary adapt its length. + +.. figure:: 0105-thread_bar.jpg + :align: center + +Optional but recommended: a short distance from the end of the back +seam, make a thread bar between the two free sides to reinforce the weak +point at the end of the seam. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_back.jpg + :align: center + + The scarf worn as in the opening picture, seen from the back. + +.. figure:: masked_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + + To keep the scarf wrapped around the face like this I've used two pins at + around cheek height and one around shoulder height on my left (right + side of the picture). + +See Also +-------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f801227 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..06c2d6e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +********** + Headwear +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + cap_with_ear_flaps/index + hood_scarf/index + square_hood/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ab85cd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e1f46b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg 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0000000..7414af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Square Hood +=========== + +.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the +finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely +different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow +fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). + +The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time +period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. +It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: +if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming +by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. + +It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, +and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of +coverage) and few tools. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width. + + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, +plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an +usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus +the same allowance. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a +running stitch. + +.. tip:: + + If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical + looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is. + +.. tip:: + + When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you + can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for + less bulk. + +.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides +together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long +piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. + +Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in +half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long +piece in such a way as to form a gore. + +.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square +to the long piece + +.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. + +.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the +long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood +and going up. + +.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, +and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above +the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. + +Variants +-------- + +Lined hood +^^^^^^^^^^ + +If your fabric requires, you can also line the hood: cut each piece +twice in both fabric and lining. + +On the outer fabric, press down all edges once by the hemming allowance, +mitering the corners. + +On the lining, press down all edges once by a couple mm more than the +hemming allowance, mitering again the corners. + +.. figure:: 0201-lined.jpg + :align: center + +Put the lining over the outer fabric, wrong sides together, and +hemstitch all sides. + +Continue with the assembly instructions above. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood + <https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_, + with pictures of the original and a reconstruction. diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28d4fae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg |
