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diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 437fa2e..5aace70 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -10,4 +10,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :caption: Contents: trousers/index + underwear/index measurements/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9059e89 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +************************* + Underwear and nightwear +************************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + liliana_nightgown/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0101-yoke_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7532ee9 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a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0398dfd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0309-pinned_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f64962e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/0311-attached_sleeves.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7a3bfeb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,219 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns +with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole +extended family. + +While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance +to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can +definitely be used as one. + +Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted +yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the +shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight +seams and just a few pleats for shaping. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton + or linen fabric. + +In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course +white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's +underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and +cheaper options are fine). + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if +used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1 +– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have +been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2 +– 2.5 mm hook. + +Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below): + for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is + recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the + sides. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom + it's completely made of empty squares. + +.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg + :align: center + + The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the + bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in + the middle of it. + +Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + + Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical, + and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the + back. + +.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the +center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points +of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides; +distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making +pleats that face towards the center back. + +Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker + yarn and the body in white ramie. diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..be2b221 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/liliana_nightgown_yoke.val @@ -0,0 +1,151 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Sleeping gown with crochet yoke + +Based on the fitting jersey top block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Liliana Nightgown Yoke</patternName> + <patternNumber></patternNumber> + <company></company> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" 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a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c606bd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg |
