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--- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d75ceee --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,278 @@ +Cartridge Pleated Skirt +======================= + +.. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +These are quite generic instructions for a skirt made of a long +rectangle cartridge pleated into a waistband (or into a bodice). + +As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including +the mid 19th century and I believe Elizabethan period, but also many +styles of European folk dress. + +These instructions add a waistband and attach the cartridge pleats to +it: for many historical styles you will have to skip the waistband and +attach the pleats directly to a finished bodice. + +These instructions assume handsewing: attaching the cartridge pleating +needs to be done by hand, but as usual all (running) backstitches can be +sewn by machine with a straight stitch without showing, and prick +stitching and hem/applique stitching can be visibly substituted by a +straight (or decorative) topstitch. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool; +* 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* stronger thread for the gathering seam, e.g. linen buttonhole; +* optional stiffening for the hem facing (tarlatan or sturdy linen); +* at least 3 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge. + +Pattern +------- + +You need the following measurements, taken over the underpinnings and +skirt supports you plan to use: + +* length from your waist to the hem of the skirt, over the skirt + supports; +* circumference of the skirt support at the hem; +* circumference of the waist. + +The skirt will be made of panels that are as wide as the full width of +the fabric and as high as the length of the skirt plus 5 (heavier +fabric) - 10 (lighter fabric) cm at the top and 2 cm at the hem (total 7 +- 12 cm). + +You need enough panels to make a skirt that is wider than the +circumference of the skirt supports: with modern 150 cm wide fabric two +panels may be just enough for a relatively narrow skirt, worn over +petticoats, but a crinoline cage will almost always require at least +three panels. + +Similarly for the hem facing you need to piece together enough +rectangles 20 cm tall to cover the full circumference of the skirt. + +Finally, if you're not attaching the skirt directly to a bodice, you'll +need a waistband: a rectangle as wide as your waist measurement plus 2 +cm allowance plus the width of an optional placket, and twice as tall as +the desired waistband height (e.g. a total of 8 cm), plus another +rectangle in facing fabric that is half a cm smaller in both directions. + +.. note:: you can also make the waistband from just a rectangle of the + main fabric that is as wide as described above and four times as tall + as the desired height, e.g. a total of 16 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Panels +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-sewing_panels.jpg + :align: center + +Put two panels on each other, right sides together, sew one of the side +seams with a running backstitch, starting from the hem and stopping at +30 - 35 cm from the top. + +Press open; if you don't have a selvedge also press the raw edge under +towards the seam. + +.. figure:: 0102-prick_stitch_finish_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0103-prick_stitch_finish_back.jpg + :align: center + +If you have a selvedge on both sides pressing the seam open may be +enough, otherwise press the seam open, then fold the raw edges under and +press them; working from the right side, sew the raw edges down +with a prick stitch, i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is +much shorter than the stitch on the back, catching just a couple of +threads of the fabric; stop this seam at some point before the top, as +you will finish it after folding down the top edge. + +.. tip:: if your edges are raw rather than selvedges, you can also sew + the side seams with a mantua maker's stitch, which already encloses + the raw edges. + +Repeat the same for the other seams between panels: if you want to add +pockets stop again at 30 - 35 cm from the top and resume sewing for the +top 10 - 15 cm, otherwise continue until the top edge. + +On these seams also sew the prick stitch up to the top edge of the +fabric, or at least until past the place where it will be folded down. + +Hem +^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_facing_strips.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the facing strips together with a running +backstitch. + +Press open. There is no need to finish any raw edge as they will be +encased under the facing. + +Fold and press under the raw edge on one short side of the facing. + +Also press one of the long sides of the facing by 1 cm towards the wrong +side. + +.. figure:: 0202-attaching_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the non-folded side of the facing on the hem +of the petticoat, starting from the folded edge at the center back of +the skirt, sew with a running backstitch. + +Press flat and then press up. + +.. tip:: if the facing is in a “ugly” fabric you should press the facing + up in such a way that about 1 mm of the main fabric shows on the + back, to make sure that none of the facing shows on the front. + + If, on the other hand, the facing is in the same fabric as the skirt, + or a nicely contrasting one, you can press it in such a way that + about 1 mm of the facing shows on the front, giving a sort of piping + effect. + + In the latter case, if the skirt doesn't touch the ground you may + also skip the skirt protector, and change the whole facing when the + hem gets ruined. + +.. figure:: 0203-stiffening_the_hem_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with multiple +lines of running stitch. + +.. figure:: 0204-hemstitching_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt. + +.. figure:: 0205-applique_sewing_hem_protector.jpg + :align: center + +Applique stitch the skirt to the hem protector, letting about 1 mm of +the protector show in the front; + +.. figure:: 0206-hemstitcching_hem_protector.jpg + :align: center + +and hem stitch the other side of the hem protector to the skirt, +catching only the facing. + +Top edge +-------- + +If your fabric is heavier, fold it down the top edge 5 cm, finish the +raw edge e.g. with whipstitches or by covering it with tape. + +If using a lighter weight fabric, fold down the top edge 5 cm twice, to +add a bit more body to the pleats. + +Finish the prick stitch around the slit, sewing down the folded edge of +the fabric. + +Waistband +--------- + +.. figure:: 0401-pressed_waistband_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the allowances at the short ends of the waistband towards the wrong +side, press. Fold the long edges also to the wrong side so that they +touch in the middle, press. + +Repeat with the waistband facing, folding the edge so that it's slightly +smaller than the waistband front. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewing_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Put the facing on top of the waistband, applique stitch the facing to +the waistband, only catching the allowances of the latter. + +.. figure:: 0403-marked_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Divide the waistband in as many parts as there are panels (and +optionally half that measure), mark these points. + +Cartridge Pleating +------------------ + +Draw three lines horizontal on the top of the skirt, on the wrong side, +starting at 1 cm from the folded edge and with 1 cm between the lines. + +Mark the vertical positions for the cartridge pleated stitches at a +distance of 0.5 - 2 cm from each other, depending on the weight of the +fabric, and starting at half such distance from the slit edge. + +Mark also the position of the center of each panel. + +.. tip:: if the fabric doesn't mark easily you can pin a sheet of paper + with the markings to the skirt, follow those markings and tear the + paper out before pulling the fabric to gather it. + +.. figure:: 0502-run_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Cut three pieces of strong thread a bit longer than the waistband; fix +them in place at one end of the skirt with 2-3 backstitches in place, +then start running each one at the positions you have marked before, +starting from the wrong side of the skirt. + +After you're out of thread, start running the second row, and then the +third. + +.. figure:: 0504-more_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Then pull on the threads to start gathering the fabric and freeing more +thread, and resume running, starting with the first thread. + +.. tip:: if one of the threads break, you can leave as long a tail as + you can, tie a new one to it and keep and continue working with it. + + If more than one thread breaks, or a thread breaks in multiple + places, I'd recommend starting from scratch with a stronger thread. + +Right sides together, pin the waistband to the skirt in the places you +have marked before, arranging the pleats so that they are distributed +evenly, but don't fasten off the threads at the ends yet. + +.. figure:: 0505-attaching_pleats_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Using again the strong thread, sew the waistband to the skirt with a +whipstitch, catching each pleat twice for additional strength. + +Finishing +--------- + +Add hook an eyes or another closure of your choice to the waistband. + +Put the skirt on, arrange the pleats on the gathering threads so that +they are balanced and allow the shirt to close, and fasten the threads +with a few backstitches in place. + +Gallery +------- + +.. .. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst index 6494ef1..6f6213d 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst @@ -7,4 +7,5 @@ :caption: Contents: 1892_foundation_skirt/index + cartridge_pleated_skirt/index |
