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67 files changed, 1555 insertions, 2 deletions
diff --git a/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib b/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..104459e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib @@ -0,0 +1,16 @@ +@misc{2019:freesewing + author = {FreeSewing community}, + title = {FreeSewing}, + year = {2019}, + url = "https://freesewing.org/", + note = "Parametric design sewing patterns under the CC-BY license", +} + +@misc{2022:mlemweb + author = {Morgan Lemmer-Webber}, + title = {}, + year = {2022}, + url = "https://mlemmer.org/tag/freesoftwear.html", + note = "FreeSoftWear patterns by Morgan Lemmer-Webber, co-host of FOSS and Crafts", +} + diff --git a/source/bibliography/index.rst b/source/bibliography/index.rst index fd75ae4..8287367 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/index.rst +++ b/source/bibliography/index.rst @@ -19,3 +19,12 @@ Websites .. bibliography:: web.bib :all: + +FreeSoftWear +============ + +Other places that publish textile craft patterns under a Free Culture +license. + +.. bibliography:: free_soft_wear.bib + :all: diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index 60da271..025c851 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -84,4 +84,5 @@ bibtex_bibfiles = [ "bibliography/drafting.bib", "bibliography/misc.bib", "bibliography/web.bib", + "bibliography/free_soft_wear.bib", ] diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst index 1e14d37..467b982 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,5 @@ century) blocks for people without breasts. .. toctree:: :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + + trousers/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..051e2f1 --- /dev/null +++ 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a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0803-loops_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0803-loops_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91db41e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0803-loops_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e62fee3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val @@ -0,0 +1,633 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans Block</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements> + <increments> + <increment description="basic seam allowance" formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + <increment description="whether the pattern should be easy fitting, 1 or 0 (fractional values will give a result between close and easy fitting" formula="1" name="#easy_fitting"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#waist_ease"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment formula="6" name="#floor_to_hem"/> + <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/> + <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/> + <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/> + <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/> + <increment formula="14" name="#fly_piece_length"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/> + <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/> + <increment formula="3" name="#back_pocket_point_depth"/> + <increment formula="0.5" name="#back_pocket_raster"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="jeans"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="rise_length_side_sitting - 5.5 + 1 * #easy_fitting" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="2" id="3" length="leg_crotch_to_floor - #floor_to_hem + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="4" length="CurrentLength/2 + 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="5" length="rise_length_side_sitting / 4 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="hip_circ / 8 - 0.5 + 0.5 * #easy_fitting" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="7" mx="-2.5887" my="-1.36447" name="A6" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="-2.22896" my="-1.71305" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="hip_circ / 4 + 1 + 1 * #easy_fitting" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="10" length="- (hip_circ / 16 - 0.5 + 1 * #easy_fitting)" lineColor="black" mx="0.903954" my="-0.178559" name="A9" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="8" id="11" length="1.5" lineColor="black" mx="-1.15769" my="-1.52124" name="A10" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="cornflowerblue" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="3.5" type="simple"/> + <line firstPoint="11" id="13" lineColor="black" secondPoint="7" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="30" angle2="AngleLine_A10_A6" color="black" id="14" length1="2" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="7" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="15" length="waist_natural_circ / 4 + #waist_ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="16" length="#jeans_bottom_width / 2 - 1 + 1 * #easy_fitting" lineColor="black" mx="-1.08845" my="0.556055" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="17" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="16" id="18" mx="-3.23738" my="-0.399026" name="A14" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="17" id="19" mx="0.901303" my="-0.558206" name="A15" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270 + 30" color="black" id="24" length1="5" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="19" point4="10" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="-2.16503" my="0.205064" name="Aa" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="45" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="46" mx="1.14007" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="47" mx="-1.33665" my="-3.01422" name="A18" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="48" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="47" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" 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</nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="237" mx="56.1951" my="-33.1012" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{eae9a3f8-2d7d-4d36-9578-7dddecc1b631}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="H" mx="323.771" my="345.264" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="14.077" my="345.264" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="239" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="238" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="2" idObject="232" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="2" idObject="233" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="234" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="235" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="236" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>238</record> + <record>239</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="247" mx="-19.2949" my="-122.368" name="fly_piece_var" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{769964d0-0c7f-4fbb-bed6-f2b52afd25a7}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="H" mx="-121.845" my="3908.38" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="-120.242" my="3826.66" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="243" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="1" idObject="244" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="1" before="1" idObject="250" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="251" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node before="1" idObject="246" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups> + <group id="82" name="back_before_crutch_ease" tool="74" visible="false"> + <item tool="50"/> + <item tool="56"/> + <item tool="57"/> + <item tool="68"/> + <item tool="69"/> + <item tool="70"/> + <item tool="71"/> + <item tool="63"/> + </group> + <group id="110" name="back" visible="false"> + <item tool="51"/> + <item tool="52"/> + <item tool="58"/> + <item tool="59"/> + <item tool="60"/> + <item tool="61"/> + <item tool="62"/> + <item object="76" tool="74"/> + <item object="81" tool="74"/> + <item tool="86"/> + <item tool="85"/> + <item tool="55"/> + <item tool="104"/> + <item object="79" tool="74"/> + <item object="77" tool="74"/> + <item object="80" tool="74"/> + <item object="78" tool="74"/> + <item tool="49"/> + <item tool="48"/> + <item tool="54"/> + <item tool="218"/> + <item tool="222"/> + <item tool="223"/> + <item tool="221"/> + <item tool="224"/> + <item tool="220"/> + <item tool="217"/> + <item tool="219"/> + <item tool="253"/> + </group> + <group id="111" name="front" visible="false"> + <item tool="9"/> + <item tool="15"/> + <item tool="16"/> + <item tool="17"/> + <item tool="18"/> + <item tool="19"/> + <item tool="13"/> + <item tool="14"/> + <item tool="24"/> + <item tool="67"/> + <item tool="65"/> + <item tool="66"/> + <item tool="7"/> + </group> + <group id="146" name="fly_piece" visible="false"> + <item tool="130"/> + <item tool="131"/> + <item tool="132"/> + <item tool="133"/> + <item tool="142"/> + <item tool="143"/> + <item tool="240"/> + <item tool="242"/> + <item tool="241"/> + </group> + <group id="155" name="pocket" visible="true"> + <item tool="150"/> + <item tool="151"/> + <item tool="152"/> + <item tool="154"/> + <item tool="153"/> + <item tool="115"/> + <item tool="118"/> + <item tool="117"/> + <item tool="112"/> + <item tool="113"/> + <item tool="116"/> + </group> + </groups> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b31452 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,439 @@ +Basic Jeans +=========== + +.. figure:: trousers_front.jpg + :align: center + +Classic 4 pockets [#four]_ jeans with a zippered front. + +This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical +pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be +shortened to above the knee for the summer. + +.. [#four] Adding the fifth pocket should be trivial, and may be added + to a future version of the pattern, but, I, er… forgot it. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy, + heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant + 2nd layer fabric; * 50 cm pocket fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern; +* a suitable button; +* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic; +* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as + it won't show). + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``waist_natural_circ`` (O03) + circumference of the trousers waist, about 5 cm below the waist; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + circumference of the seat; +``rise_length_side_sitting`` (N04) + body rise, sitting on a stool; +``leg_crotch_to_floor`` (M01) + from crotch level to the floor, between the legs; + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`basic_jeans.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible +and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and +``jeans_bottom_width``. + +``seam_allowance`` + this is the total sewing allowance, and should be big enough for flat + felled seams; e.g. 2 cm; +``easy_fitting`` + set this to 1 to make the pattern easy fitting, to 0 for a tigher + fit; +``waist_ease`` + e.g. 2 cm; with prominent (and squishy) bellies it's better to add + no waist ease; +``jeans_bottom_width`` + width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 20 cm gives a + straight cut on average sizes; +``floor_to_hem`` + distance from the floor to the desired hem of the trousers, e.g. 6 + cm; +``pocket_opening_width`` + how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm; +``pocket_opening_depth`` + how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm; +``pocket_facing_width`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in width, e.g. 3 cm; +``pocket_facing_depth`` + how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in depth, e.g. 5 cm; +``pocket_depth`` + how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm; +``pocket_depth_side`` + where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm; +``pocket_depth_front`` + where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm; +``fly_piece_length`` + how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as + to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm; +``fly_piece_width`` + the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm; +``back_pocket_width`` + the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_depth`` + the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm; +``back_pocket_point_depth`` + the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom + lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm; +``back_pocket_raster`` + how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom + lines, e.g. 0.5 cm; +``waistband_height`` + e.g. 4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric. +Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly piece from +the folded fabric. +Cut either the straight or the shaped fly piece from the scraps, once +with all seam allowances and once with the shorter vertical edge on the +fold of fabric. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + Sewing the fronts first and then the backs will get rid of most + tricky bits sooner rather than later. + + If you prefer to start with an easier part, you can follow the + instructions in the :ref:`basic_jeans_back` section, and then return here to + prepare the fronts. + +.. figure:: 0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the edges of the side pieces with bias tape. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg + + If the fabric isn't very thick, you can also cut the side pieces with + 1 cm of allowance on the curved edge and press it towards the back + once instead of binding it. + + +.. figure:: 0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put it on the second pocket bag pieces, wrong side over the right side, +and sew down the curved edge 2 mm from the edge and then again in the +ditch of the bias tape. +Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from +the edge. Treat them as one piece. + + +.. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg + :align: center + +Put the first pocket bag pieces on the fronts, right sides together, sew +the opening. + +.. figure:: 0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Press open, notch the allowances and press the pocket +towards the wrong side of the front, making the fabric overlab a tiny +bit so that the pocketing won't show on the front. +Topstitch at 2 mm and 8 mm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0105-pocket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the lower, curved edge of the pocket with a french seam: put the +pocket bag pieces with the *outer* sides facing and sew 8 mm from the +edge. + +.. figure:: 0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg + :align: center + +Press, notch the curves, turn the pocket bags so that the inner sides +are facing, sew 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0107-basted_fronts.jpg + :align: center + +Align the end of the front opening to the marks on the pocket facings +and baste the pockets to the fronts at the top and side; from now on treat +them as one piece. + +Placket +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric +once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong +side. + +.. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the +fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it +extends from the front. Press in half, and press the remaining +allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket. + +.. figure:: 0203-center_front_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the rest of the front seam, starting from the +notch and keeping the placket away from the seam, press open. + +.. figure:: 0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowances of the legs at the notch, check that all placket +pieces can move to the inside. + +.. figure:: 0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the allowance of the left leg of the front seam, press and flat +fell towards the left leg. + +.. note:: + + This seam is done with the allowances on the inside rather than + outside like the other flat felled seams; doing otherwise would + result in a bit of unfinished allowance at the front. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the bottom of the placket extension at half +the sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0206-placket_extension_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out and topstitch the placket extension close to the +vertical seam. + +.. figure:: 0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-placket_inside.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down by 1 cm the raw edges of the placket facing (or bind them with +tape), topstitch it down close to all 3 edges of the facing. + +If adding buttons, you can now sew the bottom of the placket close by +topstitching from the front, but if adding a zipper wait until later. + +.. _basic_jeans_back: + +Back +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-back_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the edges of the back pocket once, and the top edge twice, +press. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch the back pockets to the backs where marked on the pattern, +using two lines of stitching at 2 mm and 1 cm from the edge, and sewing +little triangles near the top for reinforcement. + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the back yokes to the backs, press open. + +.. figure:: 0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the yoke allowances and press up and fold the back allowances to +fell them, topstitch at about 8 mm from the seam. + +.. figure:: 0305-sewn_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the center back seam; + +.. figure:: 0306-felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +fell and topstitch it towards the right side. + +Legs +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-sewn_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the inseam. Press open, press towards the back +to flat fell and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0403-side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Right seams together, sew the side seams. Bind the edges together with +tape, press towards the back. + +.. figure:: 0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +If desired, top stitch the allowance of the side seam at 1 cm from the +seam. + +.. tip:: + + If using lighter fabric or making shorts you can also flat fell the + side seams; topstitching throught the tube of the legs can however + turn out to be either annoying or outright difficult, and I wouldn't + even attempt it with denim or similar heavyweight fabric. + + If you're not sure, binding the edges with tape and *then* + topstitching is safer than flat felling, as this way you can easily + unpick the (partial) topstitching seam if it gets too hard to sew, + and the edges will be already finished and on the right side. + +Waistband +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-waistband_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the waistband to the trousers, leaving 2 cm at +each end. + +.. figure:: 0502-waistband_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the waistband right sides together, sew the sides, clip the +corners, turn inside out and press. + +Press the remaining edge of the waistband down 2 cm, press the waistband +in half so that it encloses all raw edges. + +.. figure:: 0504-waistband_elastic.jpg + :align: center + +With a 3-step zig-zag, sew 8 cm of elastic centered on each side seam +and pulled over 10 cm of the raw edges. + +Topstitch the waistband closed at 2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four +edges, pulling while sewing over the elastic. + +Front closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: + + This isn't the traditional way to put a zipper in the front of jeans, + and it's a bit less neat; however it works just as well, the non-neat + parts are hidden from view when the trousers are worn, and it makes + it way more easy to change the zipper when it breaks, as it only + requires unpicking the zipper seams and a bit of whipstitching. + +.. figure:: 0601-left_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Center the closed zipper on the placket extension, taking care that it +doesn't extend to the visible part of the front. Machine sew the left +part of the zipper close to its border and then again closer to the +teeth, using a zipper foot and moving the cursor out of the way with the +needle in the fabric while close to it.. + +.. figure:: 0602-pinned_placket.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0603-right_zipper.jpg + :align: center + +Close the zipper again, pin the trousers closed and sew the right side +of the zipper to the placket facing by hand with two lines of +backstitch, taking care to only catch the facing and not the fabric on +the front. + +.. figure:: 0604-placket_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +Whipstitch the bottom of the placket closed. + +Attach a button centered above the placket on the waistband and sew the +corresponding buttonhole on the other end of the waistband, above the +part with the facing. + +Hems +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of each leg twice 1 cm, topstitch at 2 mm and again at +8 mm from the folded edge. + +Belt Loops +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-loops.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps, cut 6 rectangles 8 cm long and 3 cm wide; fold them +approximately in thirds, press and sew a wide zig zag through the whole +length. + +.. figure:: 0802-loops_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0803-loops_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top and bottom edges a bit less than 1 cm and topstitch +the loops to the trousers, backstitching back and forth, around the +waistband e.g. at 4 cm from the center back, 6 cm from the side seams +(towards the back) and 8 cm from the center front. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: trousers_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..df7d5db --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="41"/> + <m name="across_back_half_b" value="20"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="102"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="98"/> + <m name="waist_natural_circ" value="96"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="99"/> + <m name="neck_circ" value="46"/> + <m name="shoulder_length" value="15"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="67"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="84"/> + <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="54"/> + <m name="arm_neck_back_to_wrist_bent" value="82"/> + <m name="height_waist_side" value="108"/> + <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="26"/> + <m name="leg_crotch_to_floor" value="76"/> + <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="18"/> + <m name="arm_above_elbow_circ" value="32"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_bust_b" value="24"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..57a784b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5b3467 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7adc8b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Trousers +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + basic_jeans/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst index 437fa2e..5aace70 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst @@ -10,4 +10,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts. :caption: Contents: trousers/index + underwear/index measurements/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9059e89 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +************************* + Underwear and nightwear +************************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + liliana_nightgown/index + diff --git 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a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7a3bfeb --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,219 @@ +Liliana Nightgown +================= + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns +with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole +extended family. + +While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance +to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can +definitely be used as one. + +Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted +yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the +shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight +seams and just a few pleats for shaping. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton + or linen fabric. + +In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course +white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's +underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and +cheaper options are fine). + +Yarn +^^^^ + +* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn. + +The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if +used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1 +– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have +been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2 +– 2.5 mm hook. + +Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread matching the yarn; +* sewing thread matching the fabric. + +Yoke Pattern +------------ + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`. + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Bust circumference. +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Waist circumference. +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be + needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown. +``across_back_b`` (I08) + Width of the back from armscye to armscye. +``neck_circ`` (G02) + Circumference at the base of the neck. +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back. + +the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by +default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`. + +Fabric Pattern +-------------- + +After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end +of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for +sewing allowances. + +.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below): + for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is + recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the + sides. + +The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance +measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ`` +measurement, up to the full width of the fabric. + +The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length +of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm. + +Instructions +------------ + +Yoke +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg + :align: center + + The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom + it's completely made of empty squares. + +.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg + :align: center + + The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the + bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in + the middle of it. + +Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make +the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding +a decorative pattern to the front. + +Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to +make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with +sewing allowances. + +Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is +appropriate for the tecnique used. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the +body and the two sleeves. + +Sewing +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body +with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the +fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg + :align: center + +Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are +covered and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*, +sew about 2 mm from the fold. + +Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and +fold down its top edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + + Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical, + and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the + back. + +.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your +machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use +that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple +straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric. + +.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Do the same to the hem of the sleeves. + +.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the +body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any +scalloped edge of the yoke. + +Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the +center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points +of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides; +distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making +pleats that face towards the center back. + +Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag. + +.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the +armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker + yarn and the body in white ramie. diff --git 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--git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02295ea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 7cf8572..336a354 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -222,8 +222,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double -seaming allowance. +lines on the front and back, and if you are sure about them cut them +with a double seaming allowance. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg :align: center @@ -670,6 +670,33 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket. Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the half dozen :) +Variants +-------- + +Flat front +^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0801-cuts.jpg + :align: center + +To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and +as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. + +Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` +plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``: +this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a +front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below. + +.. figure:: 0802-ready.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong +side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the +left. + +Continue working the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- |
