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diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst index a3bd070..e192d6b 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ breasts. .. toctree:: :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + + leisurewear/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0c4938 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +************* + Leisurewear +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + low_waste_bathrobe/index + diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..973171d --- /dev/null +++ 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0000000..6dc6615 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe.svg @@ -0,0 +1,291 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="160.26459mm" + height="185.26457mm" + viewBox="0 0 605.72444 700.21257" + version="1.1" + id="svg5" + inkscape:version="1.1.2 (0a00cf5339, 2022-02-04)" + sodipodi:docname="bathrobe.svg" + xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape" + xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd" + xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"> + <sodipodi:namedview + id="namedview7" + pagecolor="#ffffff" + bordercolor="#666666" + borderopacity="1.0" + inkscape:pageshadow="2" + inkscape:pageopacity="0.0" + inkscape:pagecheckerboard="0" + inkscape:document-units="mm" + showgrid="true" + inkscape:zoom="1.0439687" + inkscape:cx="303.17001" + inkscape:cy="350.10628" + inkscape:window-width="1280" + inkscape:window-height="982" + inkscape:window-x="0" + inkscape:window-y="0" + inkscape:window-maximized="1" + inkscape:current-layer="layer1" + inkscape:snap-text-baseline="true" + fit-margin-top="0" + fit-margin-left="0" + fit-margin-right="0" + fit-margin-bottom="0"> + <inkscape:grid + type="xygrid" + id="grid824" + units="mm" + spacingx="3.7795276" + spacingy="3.7795276" + originx="0.50000001" + originy="0.49999997" /> + </sodipodi:namedview> + <defs + id="defs2" /> + <g + inkscape:label="Layer 1" + inkscape:groupmode="layer" + id="layer1" + transform="translate(0.5,0.5)"> + <rect + style="fill:none;stroke:#010101;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round" + id="rect869" + width="604.72443" + height="491.33859" + x="0" + y="0" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 245.66929,0 V 151.1811" + id="path956" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 359.05511,0 V 151.1811" + id="path956-9" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 151.1811,0 V 75.590552" + id="path958" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 453.54331,0 V 75.590552" + id="path960" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 253.22835,132.28346 V 151.1811" + id="path1107" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 351.49607,132.28346 V 151.1811" + id="path1109" /> + <rect + style="fill:none;stroke:#010101;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round" + id="rect1225" + width="604.72443" + height="170.07874" + x="0" + y="491.33856" /> + <path + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + d="M 302.36221,491.33859 V 661.41733" + id="path1551" /> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="75.590553" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897" + x="75.590553" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">fabric width / 4</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="151.18111" + y="510.23624" + id="text12899-6"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-4" + x="151.18111" + y="510.23624" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">fabric width / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="302.36221" + y="680.315" + id="text12899-6-1"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-4-5" + x="302.36221" + y="680.315" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">fabric width</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="453.5433" + y="510.23624" + id="text12899-6-3"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-4-8" + x="453.5433" + y="510.23624" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">fabric width / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="529.13385" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899-8"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-6" + x="529.13385" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">fabric width / 4</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="196.53543" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899-0"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64" + x="196.53543" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">I08 / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="408.18896" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899-0-3"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-7" + x="408.18896" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">I08 / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-75.590553" + y="264.56693" + id="text12899-0-5" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8" + x="-75.590553" + y="264.56693" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">H19 + 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-75.590553" + y="377.95276" + id="text12899-0-5-1" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-0" + x="-75.590553" + y="377.95276" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">H19 + 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-37.795277" + y="170.07874" + id="text12899-0-5-9" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3" + x="-37.795277" + y="170.07874" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">L19 / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-574.48822" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899-0-5-9-6" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-7" + x="-574.48822" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">L19 + 4</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-680.31494" + y="18.897638" + id="text12899-0-5-9-6-9" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-7-7" + x="-680.31494" + y="18.897638" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">10</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-37.795277" + y="472.44095" + id="text12899-0-5-9-0" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-2" + x="-37.795277" + y="472.44095" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">L19 / 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-245.6693" + y="18.897635" + id="text12899-0-5-9-08" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-1" + x="-245.6693" + y="18.897635" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">length of garment</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-143.62206" + y="272.12598" + id="text12899-0-5-9-9" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-8" + x="-143.62206" + y="272.12598" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">5</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:13.3333px;line-height:1.48532px;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:FreeSans;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="-143.62206" + y="343.93701" + id="text12899-0-5-9-9-1" + transform="rotate(-90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12897-64-8-3-8-6" + x="-143.62206" + y="343.93701" + style="font-size:13.3333px;text-align:center;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none">5</tspan></text> + <rect + style="fill:none;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect31190" + width="604.72443" + height="37.795277" + x="0" + y="661.4173" /> + </g> +</svg> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c34b148 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/bathrobe_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..07b49c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/leisurewear/low_waste_bathrobe/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Low Waste Bathrobe +================== + +.. figure:: bathrobe.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is a simple bathrobe made out of fabric rectangles, shaped by a +single pleat in the center back and a self-fabric belt. + +It is a pretty quick project (making it took me about half a day), but +maybe not the best for beginner sewists, as inserting the sleeves can be +a bit fiddly. + +I'm calling it low waste rather than no-waste because folding up the +sleeves to make cuffs rather than cutting them down to the correct +length (and having a leftover) sounds like cheating (and the pleat in +the back is a *design choice*, but also a bit of cheating with regards +to fabric waste). + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 2 m of towel material (see the pattern below for precise amounts); +* 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding. + +The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all +directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky +to work with. + +Specifically, the sleeves and the end of the shoulder seam towards the +neckline will require an elastic fabric; if not using one you can add +small triangular gussets to ease the transition between the straight +lines. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee (or to where + you want the bathrobe to end); +``across_back_b`` (I08) + from armscye to armscye on the back; +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; +``shoulder_length`` (I01) + distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; +``armscye_circ`` (L19) + circumference around the armscye. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: bathrobe.svg + :align: center + +Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high +as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance. + +Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye +slits, half ``armscye_circ`` (L19) long. From each quarter point, +measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08) towards the center back, and +measure the position of the center back seam, which should be +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long. +Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to +the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the +seam. + +For the sleeves, measure two rectangles as tall as half the width of the +fabric and as high as ``armscye_circ`` (L19) plus 4 cm allowance. + +For the belt, measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the +fabric, and 10 cm long. + +Instructions +------------ + +When sewing it's important to use a stretch stitch to preserve the +elasticity of the fabric: if your machine has a lighting bolt stretch +stich you can use that, otherwise a narrow zig-zag (1.5 mm wide) will +do. + +Since all seams are fully enclosed (either french or flat-felled) a +serger is not required, and using one will require adjustment of the +pattern. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the rectangles described in the Pattern section; mark the position +of the armscye slits with a partial cut 5–10 cm long, but don't cut them +fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves. + +.. tip:: + + As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric, + don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces. + +From the jersey, cut cross-grain strips 4-5 cm wide for the binding; +with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough. + +Slits +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm +wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked +on the fabric, on the right side. + +.. figure:: 0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling +towards the corners. + +.. figure:: 0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Turn the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit +to keep it in place. + +Pleat +^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0202-basted_pleat.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat. + +Baste the pleat flat near the top border. + +.. figure:: 0204-hanging_loop.jpg + :align: center + +If you have scraps from straighening the fabric, cut a rectangle about 3 +cm wide and 10 cm long, fold in in 3 and sew it in the middle with a +wide zig-zag, otherwise you can use a bit of sturdy ribbon. + +Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats. + +Shoulders +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew +``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm +allowance. + +.. figure:: 0302-shoulders.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-sleeves.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance +from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance. + +Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically. + +.. figure:: 0402-felled_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat +fell. + +Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body. + +.. figure:: 0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve +seam at the bottom of the slit. + +Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of +the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of +sewing for strenght. + +.. figure:: 0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish +the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-binding.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the +bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding +to the sleeve cuffs. + +Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch +it by hand or topstitch it from the right side. + +Belt +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-belt_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the belt in half lengthwise, sew at 1 cm from the side. + +.. figure:: 0602-belt_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out; if you're using the selvedge of the fabric there will +be no need to finish the ends. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: bathrobe_back.jpg + :align: center + |
