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| -rw-r--r-- | source/bibliography/drafting.bib | 16 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit | 37 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst | 74 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png | bin | 0 -> 137162 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst | 1 |
5 files changed, 128 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib index 080614e..588c511 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/drafting.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/drafting.bib @@ -22,3 +22,19 @@ year = {1897}, url = "https://archive.org/details/superlativesyste00ston", } + +@Book{1904:blair + author = {Margaret J. Blair}, + title = {System of Sewing and Garment Drafting}, + publisher = {Webb Publishing Co.}, + year = {1904}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/margaretjblairss00blai", +} + +@Book{1897:blair + author = {Margaret Blair}, + title = {System of Garment Drafting}, + publisher = {H. L. Collins Company}, + year = {1897}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/margaretblairsys00blai", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7936b21 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit @@ -0,0 +1,37 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/> + <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/> + <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/> + <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/> + <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/> + <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/> + <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/> + <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/> + <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/> + <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/> + <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/> + <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/> + <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0b97cf8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ +Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting. +========================================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of +:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and +page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`.. + +.. figure:: measurements.png + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Blair's | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + +Blocks +------ + + + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0e9ea9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst index 89b8387..53e77f3 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst @@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + blairs/index cutters/index |
