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b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0307-front_band_gathers.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 21785f9..56061e3 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -207,6 +207,9 @@ Cutting Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. +.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg + :align: center + If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double @@ -239,7 +242,7 @@ side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above schematic. -.. figure:: 01-cutting_tongue.jpg +.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg :align: center The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when @@ -258,13 +261,13 @@ reinforcement patches. Collar and Cuffs ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -.. figure:: 02-sewn_collar.jpg +.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg :align: center Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt. -.. figure:: 03-pressing_seams_collar.jpg +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg :align: center Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. @@ -275,12 +278,21 @@ Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or two layers of interfacing. +.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top, backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. +.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. +.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg + :align: center + Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again. @@ -291,6 +303,9 @@ Front Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front. +.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg + :align: center + On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice towards the front. @@ -312,10 +327,17 @@ pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams. Press everything. +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg + :align: center + Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line. + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg + :align: center + Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden -below the placket itself. +below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat. On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from each edge. @@ -323,14 +345,30 @@ each edge. Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers. +.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg + :align: center + Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides together, and backstitch it. Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side. -Pin the band with the tongue on top of the front so that it covers the -slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the -bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and +.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place. +Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread +from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater. + +.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers +the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch +the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it. Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to |
