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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst | 44 |
1 files changed, 44 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index bb6ff71..f9d2692 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -200,16 +200,60 @@ the band and stopping at the pin. Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. +Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing +all raw edges. + Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the gusset and the other side of the sleeve. +.. tip:: + Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three + other raw edges. + + Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. + + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and + whipstitch until the end of the gusset; + + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right + sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and + continuing into the sleeve. + + And then finish the band as above. + + This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the + sleeve seam three times instead of one; the same method could also be + used for the side seams of the shift, below, but there the additional + work starts to be significant, since the seam is much longer. + Shoulder Straps ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. +Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. + +Side seams +^^^^^^^^^^ + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe +back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and +mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. + +Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. + +Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece +over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is +one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the +back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and +stopping at the point marked for the gusset. + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and +hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. + Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ |