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diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index f85f7fa..9bee1b5 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index pair_of_pockets/index + roll_top_backpack/index + shoulder_sack/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a553d6a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0101-binding_slit_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c359aa0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0102-binding_slit_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e374b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..897bfab --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..22ffcbc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b909fe5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0107-front_and_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f442c52 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0108-binding_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..261bab6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e845ab6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..acf463d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst index 6b5f105..d97a3af 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -47,6 +47,14 @@ This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. +For the edge binding you can use finished tape, folded in half, or +strips of fabric, cut either on the straight grain (generally more +historically accurate) or the bias, folded in half and with the raw +edges folded towards the inside. + +For the tape that runs around the waist you can use finished tape, or +fabric folded like the edge binding. + Pattern ------- @@ -66,8 +74,8 @@ Instructions If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider -leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your -binding. +leaving a clear space around those markings of at least half the width +of your binding. Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may @@ -78,24 +86,50 @@ from now on treat as one. Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. +.. figure:: 0101-binding_slit_front.jpg + :align: center + If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of -the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. +the binding + +.. figure:: 0102-binding_slit_back.jpg + :align: center + +press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and then hemstitch the wrong side. -Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges -towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides -to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and -hemstitching to the wrong. +.. figure:: 0105-slit_end_reinforcements.jpg + :align: center + +Cut four small patches (two per pocket) from the scraps of fabric, fold +their edges towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on +both sides to reinforce the weak point, + +.. figure:: 0106-slit_front_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +applique stitching to the rigth side + +.. figure:: 0106-slit_back_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +and hemstitching to the wrong. + +.. figure:: 0107-front_and_back.jpg + :align: center Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. +.. figure:: 0108-binding_edges.jpg + :align: center + Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the -slit. +slit, carefully following the curves at the bottom. Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are @@ -106,7 +140,24 @@ symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. -Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. +.. figure:: 0110-sewing_pockets_to_tape.jpg + :align: center + +If using tape with raw edges, first sew the pockets to the tape, right +sides together, + +.. figure:: 0111-closing_tape_edge.jpg + :align: center + +then fold down the tape and whipstitch it closed starting from one end + +.. figure:: 0112-closing_tape_back_pocket.jpg + :align: center + +and continuing on the back of the pockets, and to the other end. + +If using finished tape, hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom +edge of the tape. Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the @@ -140,6 +191,11 @@ Gallery The back of the same pocket, with two additional belt loops to be able to wear it also when not using a MOLLE base. +.. figure:: jättevallmo_pockets.jpg + :align: center + + A pair of pockets made out of leftovers of a JÄTTEVALLMO duvet cover. + .. _pockets_see_also: See Also diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2fe8f7e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/jättevallmo_pockets.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0200-molle_back.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0200-molle_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4dfd00 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11562fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35c8a32 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2da25e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +Roll Top Backpack +================= + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_front.jpg + :align: center + +This is a simple backpack with a roll top closure. + +The pictures show this backpack as being sewn completely by hand: this +was because of some specific constraints of the project (mentioned in +the blog post), and it shows that MYOG as a hobby can be accessible even +when lacking a sewing machine. + +Most of the constructions could of course be done by machine, but +in that case I think it would be easier to bind the raw edges instead of +felling them, and using the variant with box corners instead of a +separate bottom. Attaching the leather-ish protection to the bottom +needs to be done by hand, however. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 1 m outer fabric (e.g. waxed canvas); +* 1 m lining fabric (e.g. lighter canvas); +* 30 cm leather-like material for reinforcements. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* 2.1 m 25 mm webbing; +* 1.6 m 50 mm webbing; +* 4 50 mm D-rings; +* 2 25 mm D-rings; +* glue suitable for the leather-like material; +* strong sewing thread; + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern from :download:`roll_top_backpack.val`. + +The file is set up to only print the pattern pieces for the bottom, +strap support and webbing cover, also available as a tiled PDF in A4 +format: :download:`roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf`; everything else are just +rectangles, and their measurements can be taken from the Variables Table +in valentina. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut all pieces as indicated on the patter, either the basic pieces or +the ``bc`` variants if making the `Box Corners`_ variant. + +Back preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. note:: Optionally add a molle pattern to the back, to be able to + attach some removable padding. + + .. figure:: 0200-molle_back.jpg + :align: center + + Cut 7 pieces of 25 mm webbing as wide as the back (including + allowances); starting 6.5 cm from the base put them at one webbing + width of distance from each other over the bottom back piece. + + Mark a line in the center, and lines at every 4 cm on each distance, and + sew, backstitching over each piece. + + If desired, sew similar pieces of webbing to the lower part of the + other panels. + +.. figure:: 0201-webbing_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 2 pieces of 50 mm webbing 80 cm long, fold them in half and slide +two wide D-rings in each of them. Sew them in place as close to the +D-ring as possible. + +.. figure:: 0202-whipstitch_straps.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch or topstitch the edges of the webbing, making them +a single strap of double thickness. + +.. figure:: 0203-sewing_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the webbing pieces to the allowance at the top of the bottom back +piece, at 4 cm from the center. + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_closure_strap.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a piece of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, sew it to the allowance at the +top of the bottom back piece, right at the center. + +.. figure:: 0205-strap_support_preparation.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 25 mm webbing, 70 cm long, put them on each strap +support so that one edge goes from one corner to the middle of the long +side and there are 5 cm of webbing beyond the long side. + +.. figure:: 0206-strap_support_sewing.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the strap support in half, right sides facing, and sew at 1 cm from +the long edge. + +.. figure:: 0207-strap_support_topstitching.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out, topstitch all around the webbing. + +.. figure:: 0208-attaching_strap_support.jpg + :align: center + +Put the strap support on top of the bottom back, 5 cm from the bottom, +with the webbing facing up, and sew in the allowance. + +Trim the excess webbing. + +.. figure:: 0209-sewing_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top back piece over the bottom back and +sew. Press the allowances up. + +Front preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-preparing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 10 cm of 25 mm webbing, put two D-rings in it, fold it in half and +sew as close to the rings as possible. + +.. figure:: 0302-whipstitching_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally whipstitch the two sides. + +.. figure:: 0303-front_closure_placement.jpg + :align: center + +Put it in the center of the front piece, in such a way that the top +of the D-rings aligns just below the level of the seam in the back. + +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_front_closure.jpg + :align: center + +Sew a 2 cm × 2 cm square at the bottom of the webbing, plus diagonals +for strength. + +.. figure:: 0305-webbing_cover_front.jpg + :align: center + +Put the webbing cover so that it covers the square seam and the raw ends +of the webbing, and appliquestitch it in place. + +Structure +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-back_over_back_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the back over the back lining, wrong sides together, aligning it at +the bottom edge, centering it between the side edges so that there is 1 +cm of lining excess on each side, and making sure that at the top the +back is 2 cm longer than the lining. + +.. figure:: 0402-side_and_lining_over_back.jpg + :align: center + +Put one side lining on top of one side, aligned at the bottom and with 2 +cm of excess side compared to the lining. +Put the side on top of the back, outer / fabric sides together, aligning +the side of the side with that of the back outer. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the side seam at 2 cm from the back lining edge (i.e. 1 cm from +every other edge). + +.. figure:: 0404-felling_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press the allowance of the back lining in +half, press the seam towards the side and fell. + +Repeat with the other side. + +.. figure:: 0405-sewing_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Put the front on top of one side, right sides together and aligned at +the bottom and side edge, put the front lining on top of everything, +with right side on top, and aligned at the bottom and so that there is 1 +cm of excess of lining on the side. Sew at 2 cm from the edge. + +.. figure:: 0406-felling_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Fell the seam. + +.. tip:: you can slide a metal ruler between the side and the side + lining to help you fell the seam without catching the outer fabric. + +.. figure:: 0407-aligning_other_front_side.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat for the other side of the front. + +.. figure:: 0410-attaching_bottom.jpg + :align: center + +With the body still inside out, put the outer base on the base lining, +wrong sides together, so that the outer is centered on the lining. +Starting from the corners put the base in the body, aligning the edges of +the body with the edge of the outer base and taking care to keep the +corners neat. Sew at 2 cm from the base lining edge. + +.. figure:: 0411-felling_base.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam towards the sides and fell, trying to fold the corners +as neatly as you can. + +.. figure:: 0412-hemming_top_opening.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the fabric at the top towards the lining, twice, forming a +hem, hemstitch it in place. + +Reinforcements +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Cut three rectangular pieces of reinforcement material, 3 cm wide and 2 +cm tall, fold them in half and sew them over the end of the straps. + +.. figure:: 0502-glued_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the bottom piece F out of reinforcement material, glue the side tabs +closed to form a parallelepipedal open on the top. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_bottom_reinforcement.jpg + :align: center + +Applique-stitch the reinforcement to the bottom of the backpack, making +sure to only catch the fabric and not the lining. + +.. tip:: depending on the material this reinforcement could be glued to + the backpack instead of being sewn, but this would make it harder to + change it later in case it was ruined from use. + +Variants +-------- + +Bound raw edges +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of flat-felling the raw edges, you can cut every piece with the +same sewing allowance of 1 cm, sew the pieces as instructed and then +bind the raw edges with bias or straight tape. + +Box corners +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a separate bottom you can make the front and back pieces +longer and add a seam at the center of the bottom; this will make the +bottom of the pack a bit less structured, but can be significantly +easier to sew. + +To do so, instead of pieces A, A1, B and D1 cut the pieces Abc, A1bc, +Bbc and D1bd, and skip piece E and E1. + +Sew the sides of the backpack as instructed above, aligning the pieces +from the top, when the instructions + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: roll_top_backpack_back.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `The blog post where I describe planning and making this backpack + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/07/25-roll_top_backpack_handsewn/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ff7e3c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack-A4.pdf diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfad8cf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack.val @@ -0,0 +1,418 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Roll top backpack</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + 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/dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_back.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4fe3d3c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/roll_top_backpack/roll_top_backpack_front.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c570c1d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0101-hems.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1083781 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0102-center_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa10271 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/0103-end_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..978a388 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/shoulder_sack/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,114 @@ +Shoulder Sack +============= + +.. .. figure:: sack.jpg + :align: center + +This bag style is, I believe, pretty common among reenactors of epochs +between the Middle Ages and the 18th century, and I've found online a +`list of period depictions of similar bags +<http://www.larsdatter.com/wallets.htm>`_ . + +It is a convenient style of bag that can be used to carry clothing and +other goods. + +These instructions aren't historically accurate, but at least the one +sewn by hand are vaguely plausible, since they use stitches and +techniques with a long history. + +The instructions for machine sewing give a bag with visible machine +stitching that is probably not appropriate for any reenactment, but are +suitable for an historically-inspired variant made with modern technical +fabric. + +Materials +--------- + +* Less than 1 m sturdy linen or cotton fabric, or lightweight waterproof + synthetics; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +This bag is made out of a rectangle of fabric as high as the length and +twice as wide as the width of the finished bag, plus sewing allowances +on all four sides. + +To hang comfortably from the shoulder a length of about 1 m looks good, +and if you're using narrow fabric (~80 cm) using the full width is +convenient. + +Instructions by Hand +-------------------- + +.. figure:: 0101-hems.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down all four edges of the fabric by the sewing allowance twice to +form a hem, sew with a running stitch. + +.. tip:: for thick fabric that does not unravel folding the edge just + once may be enough. + +.. figure:: 0102-center_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Using either a strong thread or up to four strands of regular sewing +thread, waxed, whipstitch together two long edges for 3/8 of the length +from each end, leaving a slit in the middle that is 1/4 of the full +length. + +.. figure:: 0103-end_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the fabric so that the long seam + slit is in the middle, and +whipstitch closed the short edges. + +Instructions by Machine +----------------------- + +.. tip:: + + If using coated, water repellent fabric, you want to minimize holes, + so use a longer stitch than usual (e.g. 3 mm) and avoid using pins as + much as possible, only using them in the sewing allowances. + + Do however backstitch at the start and end of all seams, for + stability. + + Binder clips are useful to keep things in place without making holes, + even if they can't do miracles on extra slippery fabric like + silnylon. + +Right sides together, align the long sides of the fabric and sew with a +double sewing allowance 3/8 of the length from each side, leaving a slit +in the middle. + +Fold down all four edges of the fabric by the sewing allowance twice to +form an hem, topstitch. + +Wrong sides together, flatten the tube so that the seam is in the middle +of one side, sew the short ends at a bit less than one sewing allowance +from the raw edge. + +Turn inside out, right sides together, and sew again the short ends at a +bit more than the sewing allowance from the last seam to form a french +seam. + +Turn inside out so that the wrong sides are inside and the bag is +finished. + +See also +-------- + +For some historically researched examples, see: + +* `Carrysack from Martebo + <https://albrechts.se/carrysack-from-martebo/>`_ by Johan Käll +* `The sack from Martebo + <https://indemejarecristi.wordpress.com/2014/06/13/the-sack-from-martebo/>`_ + by Maria of In deme jare Cristi +* `Historical Sew Monthly 2017: #2 Re-make + <https://blackcatsews.blogspot.com/2017/02/historical-sew-monthly-2017-2-re-make.html>`_ + by Miriam / Blackcatsews diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/index.rst b/source/accessories/cases/index.rst index e0b7efc..94a2022 100644 --- a/source/accessories/cases/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/cases/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ knitting_needles_roll/index neoprene_laptop_sleeve/index + parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5eea13 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020101-bound_mesh.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020102-half_pockets.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/020102-half_pockets.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e1138bc 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100644 index 0000000..8944d51 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,319 @@ +Parallelepipedal Zippered Pouch +=============================== + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +.. figure:: closed_pouch.jpg + :align: center + +This is a semi-rigid rectangular pouch suitable as a carrying case for +handheld devices, but also as a pencil case or packing cube. + +View A has padding (or rigid plates) at the top and bottom, view B uses +a padded lining to also give some protection to the sides. + +Materials +--------- + +The amounts of materials needed depend on the size of the pouch: smaller +sizes will probably come out easily from leftovers from other projects, +but print out the pattern to be sure of the amounts needed before buying +new fabric. + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +For both views: + +* sturdy outer fabric: canvas, cordura; +* optional: mesh or lining fabric for the pockets; +* optional: fabric for piping: similar to the lining fabric for view A; + +for view A: + +* lining fabric: plain cotton print, ripstop, lighter cordura; +* padding material: thick interfacing; + +for view B: + +* padded lining: 2-3 mm thick neoprene or 3d mesh. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* a zipper as long as piece C in the pattern; +* bias tape or other lightweight binding for the raw edges; +* piping cord; +* optional: elastic binding for the mesh pockets; +* optional: 2.5 cm wide webbing; +* matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Get the valentina pattern :download:`zippered_pouch.val` and enter the +measurements in the Variables Table. + +You have to set the following increments for the *inner* size of the pouch: + +``#inner_x`` + the width, i.e. the lenght of the side where the hinge will be; +``#inner_y`` + the lenght, i.e. the other side of the top; +``#inner_z`` + the height or thickness, i.e. the side that is partially taken by the + zipper; + +and the other increments: + +``#ease`` + amount of ease added twice to each measurements to get the outer + measurements: if you're using a thick lining make sure to provite for + it in here; +``#zipper`` + the width of zipper that will be visible in the final pouch: teeth + plus a bit of fabric on each side; +``#sewing_allowance`` + the sewing allowance you want to use. + +For convenience, these are some pre-configured patterns, as a printable +PDF or valentina layout: + +* 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm :download:`20x20.pdf` + :download:`20x20_layout.vlt`; +* 10 cm × 10 cm × 1.5 cm, using just the zipper for the sides + :download:`10x10.pdf` :download:`10x10_layout.vlt`: requires a piece + of zipper 32.5 cm long; +* to measure as a carrying case for the Pyra_ handheld + :download:`pyra_case.pdf` :download:`pyra_case_layout.vlt`. + +.. _Pyra: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DragonBox_Pyra + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 of piece A, 1 of piece B and 1 of piece C from the outer fabric. + +For view A also cut the same pieces from the lining, and 2 of piece A1 +from the interfacing. + +For view B cut 2 of piece A, 1 of piece B1 and 1 of piece C1 from the +lining. + +Also cut all pieces for the pockets. + +Lining preparation +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Sew all internal structure to the lining pieces A + +Half or 4/5 pockets +""""""""""""""""""" + +For each 4/5 or half pocket you want to add, cut one of piece D1 or D2 +respectively in netting or pocketing. + +.. figure:: 020101-bound_mesh.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the top edge of the piece. + +.. figure:: 020102-half_pockets.jpg + :align: center + +Put the piece on top of a lining face, wrong side of the piece on the +right side of the face piece, and machine baste around the border, in +the sewing allowance, backstitching over the bound edges. + +Optionally sew vertical lines to divide the pocket, starting from the +bound edge and backstitching over it. + +Treat as one with the face lining piece. + +Zippered pockets +"""""""""""""""" + +For each zippered pocket you want to add, cut one of piece A in netting +or pocketing. + +Put a zipper, as long as the width of the pouch, at about 3/4 of the +height of the piece, wrong side of the zipper on the right side of the +piece. Sew near the zipper teeth. + +Carefully cut the piece below the zipper, fold the allowances out, and +topstitch again with a zig-zag stitch over the zipper tape, catching the +allowances. + +Put the piece on top of a lining face, wrong side of the piece on the +right side of the face piece, and machine baste around the border, in +the sewing allowance. + +Treat as one with the face lining piece. + +Outer faces +^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 030101-webbing.jpg + :align: center + +Cut strips of webbing that are as long as the width of the pouch, put +them at one webbing width of distance from each other and sew every 4 cm +to make a MOLLE-compatible pattern. + +view A +"""""" + +Put piece A lining with the wrong side up, then piece A1 padding and +piece A fabric with the right side up, machine baste all around the +edges in the sewing allowances. + +Treat as one. + +view B +"""""" + +.. figure:: 030301-pieces_a.jpg + :align: center + +Put piece A fabric on piece A padded lining, wrong sides together, +machine baste all around the edges in the sewing allowances. + +Treat as one. + +Sides +^^^^^ + +View A +"""""" + +Sandwich the zipper between piece C fabric and lining, right sides +together, making sure to align the allowance in such a way that when the +seam is folded back the resulting piece will be as tall as piece B. + +Sew the long seam, press it so that the wrong sides of fabric and lining +touch each other, and the zipper comes out of the fold. + +Machine baste the free edges of the fabric and lining together, treat as +one. + +If the zipper has free ends, finish it on both ends with a metal stopper +or by sewing a few times over the teeth. + +Sandwich the side between the pieces B of the fabric and lining, right +sides together, sew. + +Roll up the side so that the other short edge is aligned with the short +edges of the hinge, still right sides together, sew. + +Turn inside out pressing all of the allowances towards the hinge. + +View B +"""""" + +.. figure:: 040201-bound_padded_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Bind the top edge of piece C1 padded lining and the side edges of piece +B1 padded lining. + +.. figure:: 040202-sewn_zipper_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Put the zipper on piece C fabric, right sides together, sew with the +right allowance so that when the seam is folded open the resulting piece +will be as tall as piece B. + +Press the seam with both allowances towards the fabric. + +.. figure:: 040203-sewn_lining.jpg + :align: center + +Put the padded lining on top of the fabric, wrong sides together, so +that the bottom edge is aligned; pin it to the allowances, open the seam +and sew the lining to just the allowances of the fabric and zipper. + +.. figure:: 040204-sides.jpg + :align: center + +Put the lining back wrong sides together with the fabric, machine baste +the free edges and treat as one. + +If the zipper has free ends, finish it on both ends with a metal stopper +or by sewing a few times over the teeth. + +.. figure:: 040205-hinge_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on piece B fabric, right sides together, sew one short +edge, then align the other one and sew that too. + +Press the allowances towards the hinge. + +.. figure:: 040206-complete_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Put the padded hinge over the hinge, wrong sides together, and sew it to +the allowances on both sides. + +.. figure:: 040207-sides_as_one.jpg + :align: center + +Machine baste the top and bottom of the hinge, and treat the full sides +as one. + +Piping +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 050101-piping.jpg + :align: center + +Prepare two strips of piping and baste them to the top and bottom of the +sides, putting the joins close to the seams of the hinge. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 060101-sewing_top_face.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the top face inside the sides, near the +zipper, carefully sew all around. You may want to sew part of the front, +cut the thread, move the zipper sliders out of the way and sew the rest +of the seam. + +.. tip:: when sewing keep the face on top and the sides at the bottom, + and ease the excess fabric rather than having to pull on + +Put the other top face right sides together inside the sides, making +sure that the zipper is at least partially open, sew all around. + +Fully open the zipper, turn inside out and check that all seams are ok. + +.. figure:: 060102-binding.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out again, sew binding on the remaining raw edges. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: media_pouch_closed.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of this pouch, with no piping and too wide of an + hinge. The 20 cm × 20 cm × 4 cm pattern is a fixed version of this. + +.. figure:: media_pouch_open.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of this pouch, open, showing spaces for two hard + disks and a zippered pocket for cables. + +See Also +-------- + diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..578b36f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_closed.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6a3d43 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/cases/parallelepipedal_zippered_pouch/media_pouch_open.jpg diff --git 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sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="Pocketing, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="62.0006" my="215.642" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node after="0" idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0" idObject="86" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="1" type="NodeArc"/> + <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="91" reverse="1" type="NodeArc"/> + <node idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index 7c3146a..07c6b3e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ author = {Workwoman}, title = {The workwoman's guide, containing instructions in cutting out and completing articles of wearing…}, publisher = {}, - year = {1840}, + year = {1838}, url = "https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00hale", note = {See also https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog for another scan of the same book.}, } @@ -76,3 +76,11 @@ year = {1905}, url = "https://archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt", } + +@Book{2018:friendship + author = {Elizabeth Friendship}, + title = {Making Working Women's Costume}, + publisher = {Crowood Press }, + year = {2018}, + url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL27803094M/", +} diff --git a/source/conf.py b/source/conf.py index e578bb9..aab3748 100644 --- a/source/conf.py +++ b/source/conf.py @@ -76,6 +76,7 @@ latex_elements = { vmargin={2.5cm,2.5cm}, ''', 'fncychap': r'\usepackage[Rejne]{fncychap}', + 'figure_align': 'H', } # Options for extensions diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst index c1a7b06..2716b1d 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/index.rst @@ -7,4 +7,5 @@ :caption: Contents: slippers/index + open_heeled_slippers/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b15ae3b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0101-sewing_uppers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c514847 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0102-pressed_uppers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4495748 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0103-cording.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad6a840 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0104-more_cording.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bbf54d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e16f0c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6221ada --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/0301-sewing_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6839628 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/foot.vit @@ -0,0 +1,25 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer>25 cm</customer> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="foot_width" value="10"/> + <m name="foot_length" value="25"/> + <m name="foot_circ" value="23"/> + <m name="foot_instep_circ" value="26"/> + <m name="height_knee" value="42"/> + <m name="height_calf" value="27"/> + <m name="height_ankle_high" value="8"/> + <m name="height_ankle" value="7"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e0e6ad4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,170 @@ +Open Heeled Slippers +==================== + +.. figure:: open_heeled_slippers.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +A simple pair of open heeled fabric slippers with a padded sole. + +As a small project with fiddly curves they are especially suitable for +handsewing, but can of course also be sewn almost completely by machine. + +This is an open heeled variant of :doc:`../slippers/index`. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~25 cm canvas or other fabric; +* ~25 cm cotton batting or other padding material (optional). + +For the main fabric, cotton or linen canvas is a pretty standard choice; +towelling materials can also be used, or fleece for a pair of winter +slippers. + +For padding you can use cotton batting or even a few layers of scrap fabric. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* strong thread (e.g. thick waxed linen) to attach the soles to the + slippers; +* 1-3 m cotton yarn for cording; +* two soles or sole material that can be cut in the shape provided. + +My fiber craft patterns site has `instructions for braided twine soles +<https://fiber-patterns.trueelena.org/feet/braided_twine_soles/index.html>`_ +that can be used for fabric slippers. + +Pattern +------- + +Download the pattern: :download:`open_heeled_slipper.val`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``foot_width`` (E01) + at the widest part of the foot; +``foot_length`` (E03) + from the back of the heel to the tip of the toes; +``foot_circ`` (E03) + around the widest part of the foot. + +The file :download:`foot.vit` has the required measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +The following variables can be adjusted, but have sensible default +values. + +``upper_length`` + from the point of the toe to the center front end of the uppers: + default is half the length of the foot; +``upper_length_sides`` + from the point of the toe to the center front point at the level + where the uppers end at the sides: default is 4 cm more than the + upper_length; +``sewing_allowance`` + basic sewing allowance: 1 cm is a good choice, but if you're using + thicker padding materials or more heel layers you may have to + increase it to 2 cm to be able to wrap it around. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two soles and optionally two or more heels (depending on the height +desired) from padding material, with no sewing allowance. + +Cut two soles and four uppers from the fabric. + +Uppers +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0101-sewing_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Put two of the uppers on top of each other, right sides together. Sew a +couple of mm outside from the seam line (to leave room for the cording). + +.. figure:: 0102-pressed_uppers.jpg + :align: center + +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording.jpg + :align: center + + +Put a length of cording near the seam, carefully sew as close as +possible to the cording with a running stitch; + +.. figure:: 0104-more_cording.jpg + :align: center + +optionally repeat one or +two more times. + +.. figure:: 0105-sewing_uppers_to_sole.jpg + :align: center + +Align the uppers to the notches of the sole, sew all around the upper +with a backstitch. + +Padding +^^^^^^^ + +Baste the optional heel padding on top of the padding. + +.. figure:: 0202-sewing_sole_to_padding.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the sole of the slippers on top of the padding, clip / notch the +allowances and sew them to the padding with a herringbone stitch or a +whipstitch. + +.. note:: + even if sewing most of the slippers by machine you will have to do + this step by hand. + +Sole +^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-sewing_sole.jpg + :align: center + +Using strong waxed thread, sew the sole to the assembled slipper with a +blanket stitch. + +.. note:: + If using rubber soles you will have to glue them to the slippers + instead. Use a glue suitable for rubber and follow the instructions + on the package. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: top_and_sole.jpg + :align: center + + The top and sole of a slippers made from old jeans with a braided + rope sole. + +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f57a0f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slipper.val @@ -0,0 +1,188 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Open Heeled Slipper</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="foot.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="foot_length / 2" name="#upper_length"/> + <increment formula="#upper_length + 4" name="#upper_length_sides"/> + <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="sandal"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.47625" my="-1.16417" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="foot_length + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="CurrentLength/4 + 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="4" length="foot_width / 2 - 0.5 + 0.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="4" id="5" length="foot_width + 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="CurrentLength / 3 * 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + 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%wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="optional padding, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="sole, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="8" mx="-55.9921" my="416.868" rotation="0" visible="true" width="6"/> + <grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="32" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="36" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="18" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="19" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="20" passmark="false" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="tMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="21" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="107" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="108" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="22" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="126" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="125" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="23" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="127" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="124" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="25" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="110" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="109" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="28" passmark="false" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="tMark" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="29" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>32</record> + <record>36</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="68" inLayout="false" mx="9.97897" my="2.55276" name="heel" uuid="{06595a17-cd64-4395-8f0c-25b858e7b462}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="B" mx="-34.5858" my="766.956" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="optional padding, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-10.7433" my="889.575" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2.5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="76" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="65" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="66" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="67" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="92" mx="16.5606" my="1.8819" name="uppers" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{6a81c422-29b6-481f-86e0-8f81d1f5ce76}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="6" letter="C" mx="-211.263" my="258.383" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="6"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="6" mx="45.3" my="266.255" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="94" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="93" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0.25" idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="116" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="117" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="119" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="0.25" idObject="90" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="91" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>93</record> + <record>94</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slippers.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slippers.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f9d5eb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/open_heeled_slippers.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/top_and_sole.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/top_and_sole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e7f2384 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/open_heeled_slippers/top_and_sole.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst index 8388d5e..c400af3 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/accessories/slippers/index.rst @@ -228,3 +228,5 @@ See Also <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/04-linen_slippers/index.html>`_ * `Blog post on making a pair of hiking slippers <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2023/05/05-hiking_slippers/index.html>`_ +* `Blog post on making a second pair of fabric slippers + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2025/03/07-moar_slippers/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..de1a82f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0101-top_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..81da39f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0102-curved_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/0103-hemming_sides.jpg Binary files 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b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_back.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..73a6e3e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/hood_scarf_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..60e9481 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,116 @@ +Hood Scarf +========== + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +For all of your post-apocalyptic (or cosplaying) needs, a pattern for a +very simple hood-scarf. + +This is a zero-waste pattern, resulting in a square hood. + +It is a quick and easy project, suitable for handsewing even with the +limited kit you've been able to grab just before the Fall of +Civilization (finding the materials is left as an exercise to the +reader), but can also be mostly machine sewn. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of a light to mid weight fabric; wool, silk or linen are + good choices, on a scale from cold to warm weather. + +Two scarves of the same size, at least 30 cm wide and 120 cm long can +also be used: in this case there won't be a need to hem the long edges. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Sewing thread to match the fabric; +* optional: thicker thread to make a thread bar. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the scarf, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. + +Cut two rectangles of fabric as high as the measurement above plus 2-4 +cm for hemming allowance and using the full width of the fabric, +keeping the selvedges. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-top_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two pieces right sides together and sew one short edge with a +running backstitch (by hand) or by machine. Press open. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0102-curved_seam.jpg + :align: center + + Optionally you may want to curve down the seam a little towards the + back to avoid a sharp point. + +.. figure:: 0103-hemming_sides.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the long sides: fold them down twice towards the wrong sides, sew +with a hemstitch by hand or topstitch by machine. + +.. figure:: 0104-whipstitching_back.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the scarf in half, right sides together; starting from the top +measure the width of the scarf and whipstitch the back seam for that +length. + +.. tip:: + + This last seam is easier to do by hand; if you want to use a machine + you may want to lay the two halves side by side and topstitch with a + zig-zag stitch, but the area near the top seam will be quite fussy. + +.. tip:: + + Before finishing this last seam with a knot check the hood for fit, + and if necessary adapt its length. + +.. figure:: 0105-thread_bar.jpg + :align: center + +Optional but recommended: a short distance from the end of the back +seam, make a thread bar between the two free sides to reinforce the weak +point at the end of the seam. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: hood_scarf_back.jpg + :align: center + + The scarf worn as in the opening picture, seen from the back. + +.. figure:: masked_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + + To keep the scarf wrapped around the face like this I've used two pins at + around cheek height and one around shoulder height on my left (right + side of the picture). + +See Also +-------- diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f801227 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/hood_scarf/masked_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4835b5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********** + Headwear +********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + hood_scarf/index + square_hood/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ab85cd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0101-hemming_edges.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e1f46b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0102-first_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5883270 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0104-second_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbf3f7d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0105-back_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fc7f2d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5847069 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed2aaf9 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/0201-lined.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae2a6e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/flannel_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7414af0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Square Hood +=========== + +.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the +finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely +different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow +fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom). + +The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time +period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history. +It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together: +if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming +by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand. + +It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles, +and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of +coverage) and few tools. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* Matching sewing thread. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the +face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement +and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you +want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be +somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width. + + +Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long, +plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an +usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus +the same allowance. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side, +mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a +running stitch. + +.. tip:: + + If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical + looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is. + +.. tip:: + + When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you + can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for + less bulk. + +.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides +together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long +piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up. + +Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in +half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long +piece in such a way as to form a gore. + +.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square +to the long piece + +.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg + :align: center + +and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood. + +.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the +long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood +and going up. + +.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before, +and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above +the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face. + +Variants +-------- + +Lined hood +^^^^^^^^^^ + +If your fabric requires, you can also line the hood: cut each piece +twice in both fabric and lining. + +On the outer fabric, press down all edges once by the hemming allowance, +mitering the corners. + +On the lining, press down all edges once by a couple mm more than the +hemming allowance, mitering again the corners. + +.. figure:: 0201-lined.jpg + :align: center + +Put the lining over the outer fabric, wrong sides together, and +hemstitch all sides. + +Continue with the assembly instructions above. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg + :align: center + +See Also +-------- + +* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood + <https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_, + with pictures of the original and a reconstruction. diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28d4fae --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/headwear/square_hood/square_hood_front.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst index 6443484..a93ca88 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/index.rst @@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ breasts. :maxdepth: 2 :caption: Contents: + headwear/index tops/index leisurewear/index accessories/index diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dd72625 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/0a01-casing_detail.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst index c684167..a552033 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.rst @@ -238,17 +238,22 @@ Ruffle-look casing ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ To add a small ruffle to the neckline, cut the casing strips a bit -higher, maybe 8-9 cm plus two sewing allowances. +higher, maybe 8-10 cm plus two sewing allowances. + +.. figure:: 0a01-casing_detail.jpg + :align: center Attach them to the top like in the instructions above, then sew a -straight seam just above the raw edges and another one 1 cm above that -and insert the elastic between these two seams. +straight running stitch just above the raw edges and another one 1 cm +above that, sew the casing edges together with an applique stitch +outside the part between the wto straight seams, and insert the elastic +between these two seams. Gallery ------- For reference, with a bust size of 84 cm, this top was made with fronts -and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm gussets. +and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm × 20 cm gussets. .. figure:: top_back.jpg :align: center @@ -256,3 +261,9 @@ and backs 83 cm × 61.5 cm, sleeves 54 cm × 42 cm and 20 cm gussets. .. figure:: off_the_shoulders.jpg :align: center +And this version, worn by the same person, was made with fronts and +backs 86 cm × 72 cm, sleeves 60 cm × 57 cm and 30 cm × 30 cm gussets, +plus 10 strips to finish the neck and cuffs. + +.. figure:: ../../../contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ace4ee0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6f637b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3552ec3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst index bc090b7..6e1e2bd 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ Basic Jeans =========== -.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg + .. figure:: jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg :align: center These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear @@ -155,6 +155,56 @@ Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the straight waistband, skipping the elastic. +Variants +-------- + +Shaped Waistband +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of a straight waistband shaped with elastic you can make a +shaped waistband: cut two of that part instead of the straight +waistband, and when you get to that stage do as follows. + +.. tip:: If you need to piece the waistband you can do it on the center + back, sew the two pieces wrong sides together and then flat fell the + seam. In that case make sure to flat fell the outer waistband and the + waistband facing in the opposite directions, to reduce bulk; you may + also want to flat fell the outer waistband in the same direction as + that of the back seam of the trousers, but this is just to make it + look nicer. + +.. figure:: 0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, sew the outer waistband to the jeans, matching all +notches to the seam lines. Press the allowances up. + +.. tip:: To help with selecting the right piece: make sure that you're + sewing the widest side of the waistband, and that the side with the + straight bit goes where the placket extension is. Don't ask me how I + needed this :D + +.. figure:: 0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the waistband facing on the outer facing and +sew all 3 remaining edges. + +Press inside out; you may want to clip the corners, and if needed clip +and notch the curved edges, but don't trim the allowances, as they are +used to give more body to the waistband. + +.. figure:: 0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the remaining edge up, enclosing all allowances, and topstitch at +2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four edges. + Gallery ------- +See Also +-------- + +* `Blog post about the drafting and wearable mockup of this pattern + <https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html>`_ diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0afe62 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2be7e5a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0901-sewing_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ded035 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e064323 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba9e55d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd96da5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0905-snaps.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce54f26 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0906-sewing_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 336a354..997f9a8 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. -This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +This is a transitional pattern between the shirts completely made from rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the more structured shirts of the 20th century. @@ -510,7 +510,7 @@ hem stitch them down. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit -edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +edges are adjacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a hemstitch on the inside. @@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, -starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughly gathering the excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. @@ -680,7 +680,7 @@ Flat front :align: center To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front -that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_excess`` in the pattern and as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` @@ -697,6 +697,63 @@ left. Continue working the rest of the shirt. +Horizontal Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These instructions are for a shirt with an horizontal opening at the +yoke, closed with snaps, rather than a slit; they have no basis on any +historical source, but are useful to make a shirt for modern wear with +fancy fabric manipulation on the front. + +Skip most of the instructions on preparing the front, sewing just the +two halves of the yoke pieces. + +.. figure:: 0901-sewing_back.jpg + :align: center + +Gather the back as per the regular instructions, then sandwich it +between the two yoke pieces, sew with a backstitck. + +.. figure:: 0902-sewing_front_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Roll up the back burrito style between the yoke pieces, and right sides +together sew the front seams of the yoke. + +.. figure:: 0903-stabilizing_tape_yoke.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of twill tape about 2.5 cm longer than the front seams of +the yoke, insert them in the seam you've just sewed and sew them to the +outer side of the yoke with a spaced backstitch. + +Sew the collar to the yoke as per the regular instructions, inserting +the excess of tape into the overlap of the collar. + +.. figure:: 0904-tape_for_the_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar close, and cut a piece of twill tape as long as the front of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0905-snaps.jpg + :align: center + +Sew three snaps per side to the front of the yoke, over the +reinforcement tape, and to the tape you've just cut, making sure that +they are aligned. + +.. figure:: 0906-sewing_front.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top of the front, and gather or otherwise manipulate its width +into the length of the tape, making sure to leave space on the sides to +cut away the armscyes; hemstitch the tape to the front just below +the hem. + +Close all the buttons and backstitch the front to the back into the +sewing allowances, for stability, then continue with the regular +instructions for the Sleeves_ and the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4e364b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Bodices +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + peasant_bodice/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d867b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6d0242 --- /dev/null +++ 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b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0404278 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc530aa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b26a373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,241 @@ +Peasant Bodice +============== + +.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg + :align: center + +This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century; +since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for +more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen +in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from +various parts of Europe. + +I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly +on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a +parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, +starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to +have just one dart and of course a different neckline. + +This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to +reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as +costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. + +For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th +century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with +strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs +to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long +project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern +assembly method is also perfectly feasible. + +The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, +near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or +additional cording for more support. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1 m main fabric; +* less than 1 m lining fabric. + +The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable +enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric; +* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording; + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`; +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used +by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`peasant_bodice.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``vest_length_in_front`` + vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for + the pointed variant; +``bust_to_neckline_front`` + vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front: + if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes + somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck; +``nape_to_neckline_back`` + vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the + neckline; +``shoulder_strap_width`` + width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough + to give a nice shape to the deep neckline; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist + line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value; +``distance_dart_center_front`` + horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good + value; +``ease`` + ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only + just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other + underwear; +``sewing_allowance`` + e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the + side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric. + +Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no +sewing allowance on the center front edge. + +.. tip:: + + .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg + :align: center + + instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew + the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. + + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + +Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the +center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for +the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the +seam out if needed in the future. + +Fronts +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the +lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on +the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg + :align: center + +Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the +corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping / +notching the curves. + +.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold; + +.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place. + +.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more + decorative seam. + +.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with a second length of cord. + +Lining +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the +wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than +the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. + +.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides +together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance +of the fabric piece. + +Eyelets +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording +seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets +every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm +from each other. + +On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left +panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2 +cm. + +Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1 +cm from the fabric edge. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg + :align: center + +Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and +sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with +whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread. + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the shoulder seam in the same way. + +Repeat with the other half of the bodice. + +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg + :align: center + +And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the +center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. + +.. + + Gallery + ------- + +See Also +-------- + +* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..51d61d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a6580e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -0,0 +1,303 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center 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+</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 3cd3947..8f8ebe7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,6 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + bodices/index underwear/index accessories/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst index 56aff5b..e90862f 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -8,7 +8,14 @@ .. contents:: -:cite:`1838:workwoman` +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. Materials --------- @@ -16,9 +23,13 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide. +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -49,8 +60,8 @@ For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the -hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to -*twice* the circumference of the hips). +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested @@ -66,7 +77,7 @@ calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd -reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table and measuring them directly on the fabric. Instructions @@ -75,22 +86,36 @@ Instructions Cutting ^^^^^^^ + + .. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. Legs ^^^^ +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running backstich. +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. @@ -98,15 +123,21 @@ Assembly ^^^^^^^^ Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing -allowance towards the inside on both long ends. +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center -Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the short ends, press and turn inside out. -Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run -separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back -of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and -pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. .. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness @@ -116,14 +147,25 @@ pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big needle or a pin. +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter points. +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if -it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the back. @@ -134,11 +176,10 @@ back. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ -Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. - -Variants --------- +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. Gallery ------- @@ -146,8 +187,3 @@ Gallery See also -------- - -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c116540 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg Binary files 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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a3d6245 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2a18d5b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/0901-bottom_hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index 72bd0d2..846ed10 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -8,7 +8,24 @@ .. contents:: -:cite:`1838:workwoman` +This is a shift or chemise based on the instructions for women's shifts +on page 47 of :cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also +suitable for evening dresses. + +There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. + +Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the +corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, +especially if cut together with matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index`. + +Because of the period, the construction methods assume handsewing and +would require some changes to be adapted to the sew-and-then-finish +methods required to use a sewing machine. Materials --------- @@ -17,7 +34,7 @@ Fabric ^^^^^^ * Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm - wide. + wide or more for bigger sizes. Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -29,7 +46,7 @@ Pattern :cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for this shift in three sizes, with no indication of the size of the person the shift was to be made -for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. +for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimetres. == ========================= === ==== === ============================ # Name 1st 2nd 3rd Valentina increment @@ -38,24 +55,33 @@ for; here they are, converted [#converted]_ to centimeters. 2 Widest width of ditto 10 8.5 7 #shoulder_strap_top_width 3 Sloped off to 4 3.5 3 #shoulder_strap_bottom_width 4 Length of plaited sleeve 46 40 34 #sleeve_width - 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_lenght + 5 Depth of ditto 14 11 8 #sleeve_length 6 Size of gusset 11 10 9 #gusset_side 7 Length of sleeve-band 26 21 16 #sleeve_band_length 8 Width of ditto 3 3 3 #sleeve_band_width - 9 Lenght of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length + 9 Length of bosom gore 6 5 4 #bosom_gore_length 10 Width of ditto at the top 5 5 5 #bosom_gore_width == ========================= === ==== === ============================ .. [#converted] rather than precise rounding I opted to maintain the regularity in grading. -For modern bodies I would adapt them as follows: measure from the top of -the shoulder to where you want your neckline to be, somewhere around the -highbust, and use it to choose your size column for most other -measurements except for the lenght of sleeve-band, to be based on the -circumference of your upper arm plus 1 cm for ease, and the lenght of -plaited sleeve (i.e. the width of the sleeve), which should be about -twice the sleeve band. +For modern bodies I would take the following measurements: + +* ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18): from the back of the neck to the + knee, where the hem of the shift will be; +* ``bust_circ`` (G04): circumference of the bust; +* ``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` (H15): from the top of the shoulder to the + highbust, or where the neckline should be; +* ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` (L12): circumference of the arm at the sleeve + band; + +and adapt the numbers in the table as follows: choose the column where +the Length of shoulder-strap most closely matches your +``neck_side_to_highbust_f`` and use most of the other values in that +column, except for the sleeve ones: for those use the column where the +Length of sleeve-band most closely matches your ``arm_above_elbow_circ`` +plus at least 1 cm for ease. As for the body of the shift, its total width should depend on the width of the fabric: the book was using the full width of fabric from 68 to 80 @@ -64,20 +90,25 @@ long as the fabric is at least about 140 cm wide (or more for bigger sizes). The length should be enough to reach your desired length, somewhere below the knees, after adding the length of shoulder straps. -The side gores should be somewhere between 10 and 15 cm wide at the top, -in such a way that the remaining fabric (including the bosom gores) is -enough to go around the bust with 10-20 cm of ease. +The book suggests that the side gores should be somewhere between 10 and +15 cm wide at the top, but depending on the width of the fabric they can +be adjusted even outside that range in such a way that the remaining +fabric (including the bosom gores) is just enough to go around the bust. -There is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` which does all of these -calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding -:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are -included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). +Alternatively, there is a valentina file :download:`shift.val` and +corresponding :download:`measurements.vit`: by entering your +measurements and the ``width_of_fabric`` and ``bosom_gore_width`` +increment it will calculate the size for all pieces. Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd -reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table and measuring them directly on the fabric; you may want to print just the shoulder strap piece, and possibly the bosom gore. +Note that all sewing allowances are included in the pieces, and should +be as small as the fabric allows, e.g. 4-5 mm for typical underwear +fabric. + Instructions ------------ @@ -94,16 +125,17 @@ cut them vertically. Cut everything else: the gussets, sleeve bands, shoulder straps and bosom gores from the rest of the fabric. -.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`1838_drawers` note that - many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the drawers. +.. tip:: if you are making also matching :doc:`../1838_drawers/index` + note that many of those pieces may be cut from the leftovers from the + drawers. .. note:: the book isn't clean on whether the shoulder straps should be cut in one piece each or in two pieces with a seam at the top: the latter requires more work when making, but the former will leave more fabric waste, unless cut from leftovers from the drawers or - other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps cut in - one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance on - the middle, and sew them together before continuing. + other projects. These instructions assume the shoulder straps are cut + in one piece, if you want to split them add a bit of sewing allowance + on the middle, and sew them together before continuing. Put the main body flat on the table, taking extreme care that they are perfectly aligned, fold the fabric in half horizontally to mark the @@ -131,32 +163,59 @@ Gores Rotate the gores around their point to see which gore should go to which side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam: -fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press; -fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and -press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it +.. figure:: 0201-german_hemming_gores_step_one.jpg + :align: center + +fold down one allowance from the body towards the *right* side and press; +fold down one allowance from the gore towards the wrong side and +press; right sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to the gore from the wrong side of the body. -Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of -the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the +.. figure:: 0202-german_hemming_gores_step_two.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of +the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the seam. +.. note:: I suggest using an hemming stitch on the wrong side and an + applique stitch on the right side as to minimize the visible thread + on the outside; the original book didn't mention a difference using + an hemming stitch on both sides, and with white thread on white + fabric it's often not a big deal. + Bosom Gores ^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0301-bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + Mark the quarter points of the top edge of the front, cut two Y shaped slits that are in total 2 allowances shorter than the length of the bosom gores (including about one allowance taken by the diagonal cuts). +.. figure:: 0302-pressed_bosom_gore.jpg + :align: center + Press all edges of the gores except for the top towards the wrong side by one allowance, press the point up so that if forms a flat edge about one allowance wide. +.. figure:: 0303-pressed_bosom_gore_slit.jpg + :align: center + Press the edges of the Y slits towards the front by one allowance. +.. figure:: 0304-sewing_bosom_gore_front.jpg + :align: center + Put the bosom gore over the slits, covering all raw edges, pin in place and applique-stitch from the right side +.. figure:: 0305-sewing_bosom_gore_back.jpg + :align: center + and hemstitch from the wrong side. Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the @@ -165,62 +224,109 @@ wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them. Gussets ^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0401-hemming_gussets.jpg + :align: center + Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side, mitering the corners, hemstitch. Sleeves ^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0501-making_box_pleats.jpg + :align: center + Starting from the center, distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands by forming box pleats, press them on the full length of the -sleeve, sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges +sleeve; + +.. figure:: 0502-sewing_down_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +sew a running stitch at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place. Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back, press. +.. figure:: 0503-sewing_band_to_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and applique stitch the folded edge. +.. figure:: 0504-pressing_sleeve_hems.jpg + :align: center + Fold and press the other long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the wrong side, and then fold the band in half, enclosing the raw edges, press. Fold and press a small hem on the other raw edge of the sleeve. +Wait until later to sew these. + +.. figure:: 0505-measuring_gusset.jpg + :align: center + Put one of the gussets near a short edge of the sleeve, align it with the folded hem at the top and mark with a pin where it ends. +.. figure:: 0506-sewing_sleeve_end.jpg + :align: center + Sew the side of the sleeve with a mantua-makers' hemming: reopen the band, then fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, putting one side one allowance below the other. Fold down the allowance twice and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, starting from the band and stopping at the pin. +.. figure:: 0507-hemming_sleeve_sides.jpg + :align: center + Clip the sewing allowance at that point, fold and hemstitch a narrow hem all around the remaining edges, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0508-hemming_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + Fold also the band down where you had pressed it, hemstitch it enclosing all raw edges. -Put a side of the gussed on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides +.. figure:: 0509-inserting_gusset.jpg + :align: center + +Put a side of the gusset on top of a side of the sleeve, right sides together, whipstitch together, continuing with the next side of the gusset and the other side of the sleeve. .. tip:: Instead of using a mantua-makers' hemming to sew the sleeve seam, - when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on the three - other raw edges. + when pressing the band you can also press a narrow hem on three + raw edges, whipstitch the sleeve and the gusset and finally hem the + band.. + + .. figure:: 0510-hemming_the_sleeve.jpg + :align: center Hemstitch the hem, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0511-sewing_gusset_to_sleeve_side.jpg + :align: center + Put the sleeve on one side of the gusset, right sides together, and whipstitch until the end of the gusset; +.. figure:: 0512-whipstitching_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + then put the gusset and sleeve on the other side of the sleeve, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the gusset and continuing into the sleeve. +.. figure:: 0513-hemming_second_sleeve_band.jpg + :align: center + And then finish the band as above. This will result in an even neater finish, but requires sewing the @@ -231,48 +337,78 @@ gusset and the other side of the sleeve. Shoulder Straps ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0601-hemming_shoulder_straps.jpg + :align: center + Press all edges of the shoulder straps twice towards the wrong side, mitering or otherwise neating the corners, hemstitch. +.. figure:: 0602-buttonhole_on_shoulder_strap.jpg + :align: center + Make a buttonhole near the corner at the top of each shoulder strap. Side seams ^^^^^^^^^^ -Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of tbe +.. figure:: 0701-measuring_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put one shoulder strap, folded in half, near the folded top edge of the back piece, align a finished sleeve to the top of the shoulder strap and mark the point where the gusset ends on the back piece. Make sure that you've trimmed the excess from the side gores. +.. figure:: 0702-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + Sew the side seam with a a mantua-makers' hemming: put the back piece over the front piece, right sides together, so that the back piece is one allowance lower than the front; fold down the front twice over the back and hemstitch, taking care to go through all layers of fabric, and stopping at the point marked for the gusset. -Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the back, and -hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. +.. figure:: 0703-hemming_top_edge.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the remaining parts of the side seams twice towards the wrong side, +and hem those and the top edge, mitering the corners. Attaching the sleeves ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0801-sewing_shoulder_strap_to_body.jpg + :align: center + Put a short edge of a shoulder strap on the back, right sides together, pin it; put the other short edge on the front, again right sides together and taking care not to twist it, pin and whipstitch both short edges. +.. figure:: 0802-sewing_sleeve_to_body.jpg + :align: center + Put a sleeve with gusset inside the armhole just created with the shoulder strap and side seam, right sides together; pin it and whipstitch all around the sleeve and gusset. +.. figure:: 0803-sewn_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Turn inside out. Hem ^^^ +.. figure:: 0901-bottom_hem.jpg + :align: center + Fold the bottom of the shift twice to make a narrow hem, hemstitch. +Variants +-------- + Front Ruffle ^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -280,11 +416,8 @@ Optionally cut a strip of lightweight fabric at least twice as long as the distance between the two shoulder straps at the front and about 5 cm high; finish all edges with a narrow hem. -TODO: gather and attach - -Variants --------- - +Sew a gathering thread on one edge, pull it to the size of the front +edge, right sides together whipstitch to the front edge. Gallery ------- @@ -293,7 +426,4 @@ Gallery See also -------- -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val index e0b10eb..9aed400 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/shift.val @@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ <increment formula="5" name="#bosom_gore_width"/> <increment description="The full width of fabric for modern, wide fabric (150+cm), or twice the width for historical widths of around 80 cm." formula="160" name="#width_of_fabric"/> <increment description="the finished length of the shift, somewhere below the knee" formula="height_neck_back_to_knee + 10" name="#shift_length"/> - <increment formula="(#width_of_fabric + #bosom_gore_width - (bust_circ + 20)) / 4" name="#side_gore"/> + <increment formula="(#width_of_fabric + #bosom_gore_width - (bust_circ)) / 4" name="#side_gore"/> </increments> <previewCalculations/> <draw name="shift"> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..341f357 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0101-folded_fabric.svg @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape 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a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcbc53 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,251 @@ +Early Victorian Corded Petticoat +================================ + +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of some stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160 + cm tall person. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm; +* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm; +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* cotton tape, 2 cm wide. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, +using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. + +.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good + width for the 1840s and early 1850s. + +You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist +to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the +fabric, see the instructions). + +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +.. figure:: 0101-pinned_fabric.jpg + :align: center + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. figure:: 0103-cording_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. figure:: 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + :align: center + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. + +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg + +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. + +.. figure:: 0109-cording_pattern_done.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. + +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +from the fold. +Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. + +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + +Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each +marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. + +Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem +the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. +Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the +wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. + +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. + +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. + +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other +edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, +right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the +fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. + +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch +through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + +Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the +unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. + +Repeat on the other side. + +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + +See also +-------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index fee8a48..9a7e7e8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -9,6 +9,7 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index single_layer_midbust_corset/index + early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index 1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index 1838_drawers/index diff --git a/source/index.rst b/source/index.rst index 52f9f70..741a2b5 100644 --- a/source/index.rst +++ b/source/index.rst @@ -87,6 +87,7 @@ Creative Commons, PO Box 1866, Mountain View, CA 94042, USA. historical_womenswear/index historical_menswear/index accessories/index + patterns/index tips_tricks/index bibliography/index diff --git a/source/patterns/index.rst b/source/patterns/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2232e6c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +########################## + Patterns and Decorations +########################## + +These are decorative patterns that are relevant to sewing projects, +including embroidery, print or patchwork. + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + patchwork/index diff --git a/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg b/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d3431f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/patchwork/basics/epp_hexagons.svg @@ -0,0 +1,480 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="210mm" + height="297mm" + viewBox="0 0 210 297" + version="1.1" + id="svg43744" + inkscape:version="1.2.2 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:download:`epp_squares_25mm.svg`, approximately matching +with the hexagons above. diff --git a/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst b/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a49dd6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/patterns/patchwork/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,9 @@ +*********** + Patchwork +*********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + basics/index |
