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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 46 |
1 files changed, 41 insertions, 5 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index e7fb5ba..8d136ad 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -14,7 +14,9 @@ instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual for a modern pattern. -Before making this shirt in expensive fabric +Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a +mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may +want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use @@ -39,14 +41,15 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric. -* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing +* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric; +* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs. Notions ^^^^^^^ * sewing thread to match the fabric; * buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* small buttons. Pattern ------- @@ -326,12 +329,45 @@ Back Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. -Assembly of the body -^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the +shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together +and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part should become and +how much material should be cut from the shoulder side for the armhole. +Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case you want to use this +pattern again. + +Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece, +backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the +shoulder piece. Press also the allowance of the same shoulder piece, +pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder +piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch. + +Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the +back of the shirt. Sleeves ^^^^^^^ +Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning +the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve. + +Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the +gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and +hemstitch it to the sleeve. + +Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between +the gusset and the sleeve. + +Right sides together, ... + + +Assembly of the body +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, align the back and front so that the hem is 8–10 +cm longer in the back (as decided when cutting) and mark a point 8–10 cm +from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end. + Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ |