diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val | 58 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 23 |
2 files changed, 41 insertions, 40 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val index e430c21..d66589b 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val @@ -36,7 +36,7 @@ treasury…</company> <increment formula="3" name="#armhole_width_front"/> <increment formula="9" name="#cuff_length"/> <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/> - <increment formula="45" name="#sleeve_width"/> + <increment description="If using fabric for this is narrower than 45 cm, check that it is enough for your arms." formula="#shirt_width / 2" name="#sleeve_width"/> <increment formula="30" name="#sleeve_wrist_circumference"/> <increment formula="6" name="#sleeve_slit"/> <increment formula="2" name="#collar_band_height"/> @@ -95,7 +95,7 @@ treasury…</company> <point angle="90" basePoint="77" id="78" length="neck_circ * 0.33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="180" color="black" id="79" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="78" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/> <arc aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" center="78" color="cornflowerblue" id="80" penStyle="hair" radius="shoulder_length" type="simple"/> - <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="100" length="#sleeve_width" lineColor="black" mx="-3.34636" my="-2.01042" name="A26" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <point firstPoint="100" id="101" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" secondPoint="99" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> <point firstPoint="1" id="102" length="(#sleeve_width - #sleeve_wrist_circumference) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10226" my="-2.05174" name="A28" secondPoint="100" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> @@ -323,14 +323,14 @@ treasury…</company> </path> </modeling> <details> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" inLayout="false" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="28" inLayout="false" mx="-0.177998" my="-0.707165" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{4b778d96-ec76-496d-a80e-97f40cf0ab78}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="1757.58" my="895.829" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="1311.57" my="889.071" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="66" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="65" visible="true"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="940.507" my="899.237" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="66" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="65" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node idObject="24" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="25" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -346,14 +346,14 @@ treasury…</company> <record>66</record> </pins> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="56" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="56" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{39cce96f-3477-4eea-b69e-952a64db3a38}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="-1640.87" my="1517.54" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-2080.12" my="1524.3" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-2461.35" my="1509.05" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="68" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="67" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="52" type="NodePoint"/> <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="53" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -372,21 +372,21 @@ treasury…</company> </pins> </detail> <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="92" mx="0.0834109" my="0.0834109" name="shoulder_piece" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b5420466-2b3d-4cbf-9400-acc1f9086324}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="415.665" my="-209.225" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="446.163" my="-209.225" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="104.665" my="-209.78" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="94.4989" my="-204.697" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="220" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="219" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node idObject="225" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="226" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="89" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> - <node after="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="228" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> - <node before="#sewing_allowance * 2" idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="227" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> <pins> <record>219</record> @@ -399,7 +399,7 @@ treasury…</company> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1286.23" my="-977.485" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1382.81" my="-977.485" rotation="0" visible="true" width="20"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="106" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -413,14 +413,14 @@ treasury…</company> <record path="233"/> </iPaths> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="131" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="E" mx="-377.325" my="-1499.09" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="131" mx="0" my="0" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{e6f4e30b-0944-4c0f-b601-033bf1b0a0b5}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="E" mx="-430.899" my="-2942.05" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-752.478" my="-1489.63" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="135" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="134" visible="true"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="-847.329" my="-2942.05" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="135" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="134" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node idObject="127" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="128" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -432,14 +432,14 @@ treasury…</company> <record>135</record> </pins> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="149" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="149" mx="0" my="0" name="collar_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{377a38c3-dcad-4140-8dd5-75485ede2c64}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.5" letter="F" mx="534.093" my="-1293.43" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%%wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="342.26" my="-1293.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="151" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="150" visible="true"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="342.26" my="-1293.43" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="151" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="150" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node before="0" idObject="143" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="144" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -453,14 +453,14 @@ treasury…</company> <record>151</record> </pins> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="169" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="curved_collar_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="169" mx="0" my="0" name="curved_collar_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{4bfdae47-da70-4841-8dac-7acfc499fe8d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.5" letter="G" mx="514.939" my="-1369.5" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="3"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="329.869" my="-1367.72" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> - <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="171" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="170" visible="true"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.5" mx="329.869" my="-1367.72" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="171" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="170" visible="true"/> <nodes> <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="162" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> @@ -476,13 +476,13 @@ treasury…</company> <record>171</record> </pins> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="179" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="front_band" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="H" mx="237.311" my="-1701" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="179" mx="0" my="0" name="front_band" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{58720b46-eaf7-44fa-aceb-9dd45a436437}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="H" mx="332.162" my="-3327.47" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> - <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="45.0068" my="-1701" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="60.0968" my="-3323.16" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> <node idObject="175" type="NodePoint"/> @@ -491,15 +491,15 @@ treasury…</company> <node idObject="178" type="NodePoint"/> </nodes> </detail> - <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="202" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="tongue" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> - <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="I" mx="54.08" my="-1800.3" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="1.2"> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="202" mx="0" my="0" name="tongue" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{1b36418a-c278-4400-9c7c-c80a413628f9}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1" letter="I" mx="56.2357" my="-3383.66" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="1.2"> <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> </data> <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="0" visible="false" width="1"/> <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> <nodes> - <node idObject="193" type="NodePoint"/> + <node angle="1" idObject="193" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="194" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> <node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> <node idObject="196" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 6b81271..da03f2c 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -101,7 +101,8 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; ``shirt_width`` the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the - width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical); + width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical), + and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine; ``front_slit_length`` the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement @@ -203,9 +204,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with single (for -the original felled seam) or double (for french seaming) seaming -allowance. +lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double +seaming allowance. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg :align: center @@ -467,13 +467,14 @@ towards the body. Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming - it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (this is - already marked in the valentina pattern), put the sleeve in with - wrong sides facing, backstitch at a bit less than the sewing - allowance from the edge, press; turn the sleeve inside out, right - sides facing, backstitch the straight part at a bit more than the - sewing allowance from the previous seam, turn it right side out and - hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch. + it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you + want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and + before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, + backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, + press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the + straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the + previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part + catching each gather with a stitch. From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the |