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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3af3fa8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,133 @@ +1880s Sportswear Jacket +======================= + +.. figure:: jacket.jpg + :align: center + + + +The drafting manual I've used for this jacket, :cite:`1892:cutters`, is +from 1892, but tends to show shapes more typical of the natural form and +second bustle eras + +Most of the jacket is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an +historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with +handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full jacket is also an +option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a +backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams. + +Note that this isn't a full pattern: there is a drafted block (or you +can use a similarly shaped one you already have) and there are +instructions on how to develop and then sew the jacket from that. + +Inspiratons and additional sources +---------------------------------- + +* :cite:`1892:cutters`, Fig. 15, The BeatricePlate 5a. +* :cite:`1896:elements` + + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 1.5 m of fashion fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton, + linen or wool; +* about 1.5 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen; + + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file +and has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`ladies_jacket.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Flatlining +^^^^^^^^^^ + +Back +^^^^ + +.. note:: on basting + + Usually, I'm not a basting person: I tend to pin and sew directly, + and for simple straight seams I even skip the pins. + + In this case, however, all of the vertical seams are curved and need + to be sewn precisely, so I'd strongly recommend basting them before + sewing, starting from the waistline, which is where most precision is + needed and going upwards and then downwards. + +Starting from the center back and moving out, pin, baste and sew all +seams of the back. + +Remove the basting thread, including the ones used to mark these +seamlines and press open. + +Cut a piece of herrinbone tape long enough to go around the waist, sew +its center to the allowances of the center back, as close as possible to +the seam. Hem the ends. + +Press 6 mm of the allowances towards the lining, fell them down with a +herringbone stitch taking care to only catch the lining. + +You may have to clip the allowances to let it lie flat on the curves, +but try to avoid cutting into them as much as possible, as the wide +allowances are very useful in case you need to adapt the jacket to body +shape changes in the future. Using a steam iron to help the fabric +follow the curves can be useful, especially with wool. + +Pin and baste the side seam, starting from the waist and allowing for +any lenght difference at the two edges. Also pin and baste the shoulder +seams, easing the longer back into the front. + +While wearing your full underwear and supports, try on the jacket, +pinning the center fronts together, and adjust the fit as needed. + +Mark the position for the welt pockets above the bust. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +Pin, baste and sew the underarm (shorter) seam on both sleeves. + +Press open, and fell down the allowances. + +Pin the outer seam, baste it starting from the top and down to about 2 +cm above the wrist; baste it starting from the wrist and finally gather +the excess from the upper part in the remaining length. Sew, press and +fell down the allowances. + + + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b1f616 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +********* + Jackets +********* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1880s_sportswear_jacket/index + |