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-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/01-cutting_tongue.jpgbin0 -> 1027251 bytes
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-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst17
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@@ -226,12 +226,19 @@ complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
for it not to be a problem.
-.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern_directional.svg
+.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg
:align: center
If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
-of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides.
+of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above
+schematic.
+
+.. figure:: 01-cutting_tongue.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+ The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when
+ cutting the shoulder piece.
Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
@@ -246,9 +253,15 @@ reinforcement patches.
Collar and Cuffs
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+.. figure:: 02-sewn_collar.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.
+.. figure:: 03-pressing_seams_collar.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
.. note::