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diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index f7276a8..a4b894c 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -36,3 +36,11 @@ year = {1916}, url = "https://archive.org/details/schoolsewingbase00burt", } + +@Book{1892:home + author = {Myers, Annie E}, + title = {Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing}, + publisher = {Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company}, + year = {1892}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", +} diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4f65dc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/01-cutting_gores.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d71ef1 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/02-aligning_gores.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/03-felled_hem_gores.jpg 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b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4ea0936 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/cutting_pattern.svg @@ -0,0 +1,207 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="170.26459mm" + height="110.26458mm" + viewBox="0 0 643.51971 416.74802" + version="1.1" + id="svg5" + inkscape:version="1.1.2 (0a00cf5339, 2022-02-04)" + sodipodi:docname="cutting_pattern.svg" + xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape" + xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd" + xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"> + 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id="tspan25348"><tspan + style="fill:#000000;stroke:none" + id="tspan25346">side</tspan></tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:18.6667px;line-height:18.715px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:center;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:middle;white-space:pre;inline-size:75.5905;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="94.488182" + y="396.8504" + id="text8984-7-1" + transform="translate(17.972971,-332.72117)"><tspan + x="94.488182" + y="396.8504" + id="tspan25352"><tspan + style="fill:#000000;stroke:none" + id="tspan25350">band</tspan></tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:18.6667px;line-height:18.715px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium 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+ id="tspan25360"><tspan + style="fill:#000000;stroke:none" + id="tspan25358">bib</tspan></tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:18.6667px;line-height:18.715px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:center;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:middle;white-space:pre;inline-size:75.5905;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:1px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + x="94.488182" + y="396.8504" + id="text8984-7-1-9-3" + transform="translate(443.7828,-172.60235)"><tspan + x="94.488182" + y="396.8504" + id="tspan25364"><tspan + style="fill:#000000;stroke:none" + id="tspan25362">bib</tspan></tspan></text> + </g> +</svg> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb7cf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,183 @@ +Full Apron with Bib from Modern Fabric +====================================== + +.. figure:: apron.jpg + :align: center + +This apron is inspired on the instructions from :cite:`1892:home` (pag +137) from 1892, adapted for modern, double-width fabric. + +The original instructions claimed that the apron without a bib could be +sewn in one hour by machine, and even with the bib and a pocket it is a +quick and easy project. + +The adaptation kept the selvedges on the sides, and most of the +construction methods, but significantly changed the original +proportions: the side gores are half as wide, their selvedge length is a +bit shorter and the band is shorter and narrower. The hem in these +instructions is also much narrower, but that can be easily changed back +to the recommended 8 cm. + +For cutting efficiency there is also some piecing, most notably on the +bib, which probably wouldn't have been needed, but then *piecing is +period, period*. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~1 m washable fabric ~150 cm wide. + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good for a serviceable working apron; the original instructions +recommended gingham. The pattern requires a fabric that has no right or +wrong side, as half of the bib will have to show the wrong side. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* tape for ties or two buttons and button twist thread; +* 2 safety pins. + +Pattern +------- + +Measure the desired lenght of the apron, add 5 cm for the hem, cut a +rectangle of fabric of that length, selvedge to selvedge, on the straigh +grain (either by ripping or cutting on a thread). + +.. figure:: cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +Cut on the straight grain two panels on the sides, each one quarter of +the width of the fabric, leaving a center panel that is twice as wide. + +.. figure:: 01-cutting_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Now cut two side gores such that the diagonal is as long as the length +of the center panel; for a 100 cm long panel this will be a bit more +than 90 cm, leaving a rectangle a bit less than 10 cm high for the band. + +Decide how high you want the bib to be, and cut two trapeziums from the +remaining triangles such that when sewn together they will form a +square with that side. + +From the remaining fabric you'll cut a base for buttons and a pocket. + +Instructions +------------ + +.. figure:: 02-aligning_gores.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 03-felled_hem_gores.jpg + :align: center + +Align the bias edge of a side panel at half the sewing allowance +distance from the edge of the front panel, sew, press towards the side +panel, fold down the front panel edge and topstitch. Repeat on the other +side. + +.. figure:: 04-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the bottom edge: fold it down by 2 cm twice, rounding the corners, +topstitch. The side edges won't need an hem because they use the +selvedge. + +.. figure:: 05-bands.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the a band piece in half lengthwise, sew the two short edges without +selvedge and press open; repeat for the other band piece. + + +.. figure:: 06-gathers.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 07-sandwich.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two rows of gathering stitches at the top of the apron, gather it to +46 cm; sandwich it between the two bands, centered on them, and sew +from one selvedge to the other of the band. +Press the allowances up. + +.. figure:: 09-bib.jpg + :align: center + +Align the two bias edges of the bib at half an allowance of distance +from each other, sew, press towards the short side, fold down the long +allowance and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 10-bib_hems.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the top and sides of the bib with a 1 cm hem with mitered corners. + + +.. figure:: 11-attaching_bib.jpg + :align: center + +Put the right side of the bib centered on the right side of the front +band, sew, press towards the band all allowances, including the ones to +the side of the band. + +.. figure:: 12-band.jpg + :align: center + +Press also the back band, topstitch close to both borders of the band. + +Ties +^^^^ + +If you want to close the apron with ties, sew them to the ends of the +band, long enough to go around the waist and tie in front; finish the +ends. + +Button closure +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The band will probably be too short to go around the waist, so you will +have to make a small extension with two buttons. + +Make two buttonholes at the ends of the band. + +From the leftovers, cut a rectangle long enough to go from below one +buttonhole to the other one with the apron around the waist, plus sewing +allowance, and four time as high as the finished band. + +.. figure:: 20-button_stand.jpg + :align: center + +Fold it in half, then fold the allowances towards the center: you will +get a rectangle made of four layers of fabric, press. +Fold the ends in, press. + +Topstitch all around this rectangle, close to the border. + +.. figure:: 21-buttons_and_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Add two buttons at the ends. + +Pocket +^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 30-pocket.jpg + :align: center + +When you've finished adding parts to the apron, you can cut a pocket +from whatever leftovers you still have, hem all sides with a 1 cm hem, +and topstitch to the front of the apron. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: apron_front.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93946fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +************* + Accessories +************* + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + 1892-apron_with_optional_bib/index + sleevelets/index + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1b06d6d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,111 @@ +Sleevelets +========== + +.. figure:: ../1892-apron_with_optional_bib/apron_front.jpg + :align: center + +Sleevelets or sleeve protectors based on the instructions on +:cite:`1916:school` from 1916. + +They are mostly machine sewed, and are quite a quick and easy project, +suitable for beginners. + +This is the variant with a buttoned cuff; an elastic may be inserted at +the bottom (wider) end, but it will be the first part to get ruined in +the wash, so the recommended plan is to sew the loops of elastic closed +and wearing them on top of the sleevelets if needed. +In many cases, the sleevelets are stable enough not to need the elastic +anyway. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* ~35 cm washable fabric + +Medium weight cottons or linens in plain colours, checks or stripes are +good; for office and shop work black is traditional, while in the +kitchen or for housework it would have been white or gingham. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 2 small buttons; +* 60–70 cm elastic (optional). + +Pattern +------- + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val` and decide or measure the +following measurements, set in the valentina pattern as variables: + +``#elbow_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the elbow end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 33 cm; +``#wrist_width`` + the circumference of the finished sleevelet at the wrist end, before + gathering: in the original instructions this was 5 cm less than the + ``#elbow_width``; +``#length`` + length of the finished sleevelet, with the cuff excluded: in the + original instructions this was 30 cm; +``#cuff_circ`` + the width of the cuff: the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm; +``#cuff_height`` + height of the cuff: 2 cm is a good measure. + +Instructions +------------ + +Straighten the edge of the fabric by ripping or drawing a thread and cut +two of the sleevelets and four of the cuff pieces; if the material +doesn't have a direction you can invert one of the sleevelets to reduce +waste. + +From the scraps, cut two rectangles of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as +the slit plus 2 cm. Put them right sides facing on top of the slits and +sew all around with a 2 mm allowance. Carefully cut the slit, turn the +facing to the back, press. Fold down the edges of the fabric 1 cm on all +sides except the top, clip the corners, press and topstitch in place by +machine or hemstitch by hand. + +Sew the side of the sleevelets with a french seam: fold a sleevelet with +wrong sides facing, sew with a 8 mm allowance, press open, turn inside +out with the right sides facing and sew again with a 10-11 mm allowance. +Press towards the back. Repeat for the other sleevelet, taking care to +press in the opposite direction. + +Fold up the wider part of each sleevelet by 2 cm twice and either +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand. + +.. note:: + + If you prefer in this hem you may insert an elastic that is long + enough to go around the top of your forearm snugly. + +With right sides facing, sew two of the cuffs together at the top and +sides with 1 cm allowance; clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +Put the right side of a cuff on the right side of a sleevelet, with the +rounded edge at the top / front and distributing the excess fabric in a handful of small (1 +cm) pleats, putting more on the top / front than on the bottom; sew and +press towards the cuff. Fold the other allowance of the cuff and +topstitch by machine or hemstitch by hand, enclosing all allowances. + +Make buttonholes in the rounded end of the cuff and attach buttons to +the other end. + +Wear with the buttons on the inner wrist, closest to the thumb, where +they don't interfere with the use of the hands. + +Gallery +------- + diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f5cd1a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/accessories/sleevelets/sleevelets-school_sewing-1916.val @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.0</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description>Sleevelet after School Sewing based on Home Problems by Burton & Burton, p. 73</description> + <notes/> + <patternName>Sleevelet</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <customer/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements/> + <increments> + <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the elbow end (before gathering, if any)" formula="33" name="#elbow_width"/> + <increment description="width of the sleevelet at the wrist end (before gathering, if any)" formula="#elbow_width - 5" name="#wrist_width"/> + <increment description="length of the sleevelet" formula="30" name="#length"/> + <increment description="circumference of the wrist, plus ease" formula="18" name="#cuff_circ"/> + <increment description="height of the cuff" formula="2" name="#cuff_height"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="sleevelet"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="#length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="3" length="#wrist_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="4" length="#elbow_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="6" length="- CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A5" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="#cuff_circ + #cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.659867" my="0.867526" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="8" length="#cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="9" mx="0.586883" my="-1.44013" name="A8" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="10" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" name="A9" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="10" id="11" length="Line_A9_A8" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10853" my="-0.865935" name="A10" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" center="11" color="black" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="Line_A9_A8" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" name="A11" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="33" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="13" idObject="5" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="14" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="15" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="16" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="26" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="-2.42478" my="-1.44013" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <arc id="28" idObject="12" inUse="false" type="modeling"/> + <point id="29" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="1.0983" my="-0.587775" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="30" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="31" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="34" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="35" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="true" firstToCountour="true" id="36" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="cut" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="35" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="17" mx="0" my="0" name="sleevelet" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{976682eb-92b1-4507-a7f9-23a948ca9eda}" version="2" width="2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="64.5293" my="41.3949" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-210.796" my="39.244" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node after="1" idObject="13" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="1" idObject="14" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="4" idObject="15" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="4" idObject="16" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="36"/> + </iPaths> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="32" mx="1.08292" my="-2.43657" name="cuff" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{c0cd708c-5d5d-442c-8787-08c84ecd644d}" version="2" width="1"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="1.8" letter="B" mx="221.287" my="-30.197" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="4" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="1.8" mx="35.0911" my="-29.977" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/> + <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="28" reverse="1" type="NodeArc"/> + <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="30" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index 86dae5a..d67d4c7 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,3 +11,4 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + accessories/index |
