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a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst index 2184854..0732c6a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -38,16 +38,21 @@ Fabric Notions ^^^^^^^ -* strong sewing thread to match the fabric; -* boning: either ~ 14 m 6 - 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 6 - 10 mm - spiral steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel (precise amounts will depend - on the height of the corset); +* strong sewing thread to match the fabric — a good brand of cotton + thread or sewing silk, linen if you're sewing by hand; +* boning: ~ 6 m 6 - 10 mm spiral steel and ~ 2 m 10 mm flat steel + (precise amounts will depend on the height of the corset and how many + boning pieces you want to add) — you can also substitute both with ~ + 8 m 6 - 10 mm synthetic whalebone; * one steel busk to fit the center front height; -* ~ 4 m 25-30 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same +* ~ 6 m 25-30 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same amount premade boning channel tape; * ~ 1 m 15 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* ~ 3 m bias tape to match or contrast with the fabric, to bind the top + and bottom edge; * ~ 30 two-parts metal eyelets; -* buttonhole twist silk for flossing. +* buttonhole twist silk for flossing, +* about 6 m lacing cord. For a double boning channel the tape should be at least double the width of the boning plus 10 mm, for a single boning channel at least the width @@ -134,6 +139,11 @@ And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: corset should fit snugly on the waist), but more is of course a valid choice. +.. tip:: A waist reduction of 2-4 cm should result in a corseted waist + (measured over the corset) that is about the same as the uncorseted + waist, making it easier to make clothing that can be worn either with + or without a corset, for maximum historybounding potential. + Pattern ^^^^^^^ @@ -282,53 +292,92 @@ and carefully pin everything in place. Topstitch from the right side of the corset, using a zipper foot and sewing as close as possible to the busk. +.. figure:: 0305-marked_left_busk_position.jpg + :align: center + Fold panel 1 left wrong sides together, align it carefully with the assembled panel 1 right and mark the position where the eyes of the busk are. + +.. figure:: 0306-awl_holes.jpg + :align: center + With an awl open holes on each marked position, just as big as necessary -to let the studs of the busk pass through; insert the stud side of the -busk, wrap the other waist tape around it as before and carefully pin in -place. +to let the studs of the busk pass through. + +.. figure:: 0307-inserting_left_busk.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the stud side of the busk, wrap the other waist tape around it as +before and carefully pin in place. + +.. figure:: 0308-finished_front_panels.jpg + :align: center Topstitch also this panel from the right side of the corset, using a -zipper foot and sewing as close as possibile to the busk. +zipper foot and sewing as close as possible to the busk. Panels ^^^^^^ +Attach the panels to each other, starting from the just finished panel 1 +and panel 2, and continuing until panel 6. + If you want your boning channels inside the corset put each panel on the next right side together, if you are making external boning channels put the panels wrong side together, so that the allowances will be on the outside of the corset. +.. figure:: 0401-basted_panels.jpg + :align: center + Using relatively short (~ 1 cm) running stitches baste just outside of the marked line; if you used tailor's tacks remove them so that they won't get stuck in the seam. +.. figure:: 0402-sewn_panels.jpg + :align: center + Sew each seam, press open. Fitting ^^^^^^^ -Fold panel 6, wrong sides together, so that the cut edge alignes with +.. figure:: 0501-eyelet_strip.jpg + :align: center + +Fold panel 6, wrong sides together, so that the cut edge aligns with the seam line with panel 5, press. Machine baste a premade eyelet strip. Ideally also baste premade boning channels in the middle of most panels, and add some boning (temporary boning such as zip ties are fine). -Try the corset on, check the fit. +Try the corset on, check the fit and do any required last minute +adjustment. Unpick the eyelet strip and temporary boning channels. Boning Channels ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0601-pinned_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + Starting from the center front, sew a boning channel on each seam: trim the sewing allowances so that they are narrower than the tape, center a piece of tape on the seam so that it covers the waist tape precisely at -waist level, pin it, possibly baste it, and sew it *from the front of -the corset* at 2 mm from each edge and, if it is going to be a double -channel, in the middle. +waist level, pin it, possibly baste it. + +.. figure:: 0602-sewn_boning_channel.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the boning channel *from the front of the corset* at 2 mm from each +edge and, if it is going to be a double channel, in the middle. +After sewing each channel test it with a piece of boning to check that +it fits; otherwise unpick it and sew it again. + +.. figure:: 0603-pinned_channel_and_tape.jpg + :align: center Before sewing the channel between panels 5 and 6 make sure to let the waist tape reach to the fold in panel 6 and go back to the seam, leave @@ -341,52 +390,115 @@ it pinned in place. a bit fiddly, and this is where basting will help, to have a precise reference. -Also from the front of the corset sew a line 1-2 mm from the fold of the -panel, and then 3 more lines at a distance of 1 mm more than the width -of the flat steel boning from each other. +.. figure:: 0604-eyelet_channels.jpg + :align: center -Optionally, sew more boning channels to the middle of panels 2-5, using -the same procedure. +On panel 6 also sew channels for the flat steels between the two layers +of coutil: sew a line 1-2 mm from the fold of the panel, and then 3 more +lines at a distance of 1 mm more than the width of the flat steel boning +from each other. -After sewing each channel test it with a piece of boning to check that -it is the right side. +.. figure:: 0605-extra_boning_channels.jpg + :align: center + +Optionally, sew an additional boning channel to the middle of panels +2-5: pin the tape vertically in the middle of the panel and sew at 2 mm +from each side. Binding and Boning ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0701-binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + Right sides together, sew bias tape to the bottom edge of the corset, leaving an excess at the center front and back. +.. figure:: 0702-closing_binding_bottom.jpg + :align: center + Press towards the inside, folding the excess so that all raw edges are covered, and hemstitch it closed. -Cut pieces of spiral steel boning 2 cm shorter than each boning channel -except for the ones in panel 6, finish the ends with end caps and insert -the boning in the channel. +.. figure:: 0703-measuring_boning.jpg + :align: center + +For each boning channel except those in panel 6, cut a piece of spiral +steel 2 cm shorter than the channel, + +.. figure:: 0704-end_caps.jpg + :align: center + +finish the ends with end caps + +.. figure:: 0705-boning_in_channel.jpg + :align: center + +and insert the boning in the channel. + +.. figure:: 0706-flat_steel_boning.jpg + :align: center -Cut pieces of flat steel boning 2 cm shorter than the boning channels in -panel 6, sand the ends, wrap them in teflon tape or dip them in plastic -and insert them in the channels. +For panel 6, cut pieces of flat steel boning 2 cm shorter than the +boning channels, sand the ends, wrap them in teflon tape or dip them in +plastic and insert them in the channels. -Right sides together, sew bias tape also to the top edge of the corset, -being careful not to sew over the boning; press it towards the back and +Add binding also to the top edge, closing the channels: right sides +together, sew bias tape also to the top edge of the corset, being +careful not to sew over the boning; press it towards the back and hemstitch it closed. Lacing holes ^^^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0801-marked_lacing_holes.jpg + :align: center + Starting at 1 cm on each side of the waist, mark the position for lacing holes on panel 6 at a distance of 2 cm, reaching to the top and bottom of the panel. +.. figure:: 0802-using_awl.jpg + :align: center + Open each hole with an awl, trying not to break the threads in the -fabric, and insert a metal eyelet. +fabric, + +.. figure:: 0803-metal_eyelet.jpg + :align: center + +and insert a metal eyelet. + +.. figure:: 0804-lacing.svg + :align: center + +Thread lacing cord through the eyelets: start with the center of the +cord at the top and thread the two ends alternating the sides making +sure that each X formed is either on the outside or the inside of the +corset; when you reach the waist make sure that you've just done an X on +the inside of the corset, skip a hole, thread each end of the cord in +the eyelet just below the waist from the inside to the outside, then in +the eyelet just above the waist on the same side, going from the outside +towards the inside and forming two loops, and then continue doing +regular Xs until the bottom of the corset. Close the lacing with a +sturdy knot and move all excess towards the loops at the waist. Flossing ^^^^^^^^ +Using a strong thread such as silk buttonhole twist make a few +embroidery stitches at the ends of each spiral steel bone, going through +all layers of the corset, to keep it in place and prevent it from +rubbing on the fabric. + +This can be as simple and utilitarian as you'd like, but you can also +look at extant corsets for examples of decorative stitches. + Gallery ------- -.. figure:: +.. figure:: corset_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: corset_back.jpg :align: center |
