diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | source/bibliography/misc.bib | 16 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 29 |
2 files changed, 33 insertions, 12 deletions
diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib index a4b894c..aa91a2e 100644 --- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib +++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib @@ -44,3 +44,19 @@ year = {1892}, url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer", } + +@Book{1879:beeton + author = {Beeton}, + title = {Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information}, + publisher = {London ; New York : Ward, Lock & Co., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.C.}, + year = {1979}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/", +} + +@Book{1840:godey + author = {Godey}, + title = {Godey's lady's book}, + publisher = {L.A. Godey}, + year = {1840}, + url = "https://archive.org/details/godeysladysboo00phil", +} diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 5610e00..d7b7df1 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -4,10 +4,21 @@ .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg :align: center -A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's -treasury of domestic information -<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_ -from around 1880. +A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's +treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. + +This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the +more structured shirts of the 20th century. + +This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've +seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use +a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but +you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front +opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. + +The same pattern can also be used for an early ladies' Garibaldi Shirt +:cite:`1840:godey` (pag 29). While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), @@ -18,12 +29,6 @@ Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. -This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've -seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use -a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but -you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front -opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. - I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the @@ -212,7 +217,7 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. :align: center If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper -pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam +pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double seaming allowance. @@ -557,7 +562,7 @@ Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side seam, and hemstitch. -.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: +.. _1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes: .. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg :align: center |