diff options
13 files changed, 49 insertions, 16 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0508-button_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0508-button_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ea5efe --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0508-button_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..883dcbc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0605-hem.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0605-hem.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1492d9f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0605-hem.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0606-marking_armscye.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0606-marking_armscye.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f21cffa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0606-marking_armscye.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0607-basted_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0607-basted_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2cbade4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0607-basted_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9fd54a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca882ff --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d93099d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19cc068 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c958d20 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0613-triangle_patch.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0613-triangle_patch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8d8f5b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0613-triangle_patch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..83e4950 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index 93e7896..5610e00 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -520,7 +520,8 @@ each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching each gather. -.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg +.. figure:: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding buttonhole to the larger part. @@ -532,11 +533,12 @@ Assembly of the body :align: center Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10 -cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a -point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam -will end. +cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and the +back is one sewing allowance from the front and mark a point 8–10 cm +from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end. -.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg +.. figure:: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg + :align: center .. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg :align: center @@ -545,9 +547,11 @@ Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4 cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end of the side seam. -Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back -is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double -allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. +Backstitch the side seams between the points just marked. Fold the +double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0605-hem.jpg + :align: center Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side @@ -555,10 +559,14 @@ seam, and hemstitch. .. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes: +.. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg + :align: center + Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. - +.. figure:: 0607-basted_sleeve.jpg + :align: center Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, @@ -567,9 +575,14 @@ excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. -When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper -and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front -and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern. +.. figure:: 0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg + :align: center + +When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper, +aligning the corner and sides, and use a pin or another pointed +implement to prick the paper following the seam line where you basted +for both the front and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and +cut the pattern. Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end, save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another @@ -581,6 +594,9 @@ shirt in this size. Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on both sides of the shirt. +.. figure:: 0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg + :align: center + Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the points just marked. @@ -590,12 +606,23 @@ points just marked. quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance. +.. figure:: 0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on -the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the -ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam -allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder -piece, catching each gather. +the body. + +.. figure:: 0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the ungathered part of +the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam allowance and applique +stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder piece, catching each +gather. + +.. figure:: 0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it @@ -614,6 +641,9 @@ towards the body. previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part catching each gather with a stitch. +.. figure:: 0613-triangle_patch.jpg + :align: center + From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the @@ -622,6 +652,9 @@ outside and a hemstitch on the inside. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more button and buttonholes on the front placket. |
