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| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 62 |
1 files changed, 59 insertions, 3 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 57d574d..f88f3a1 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -29,8 +29,9 @@ were most definitely a thing. If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything else, or to sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every -time the instructions say to hemstitch something; buttonholes should -probably still be done by hand, however. +time the instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for +historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however, +unless that's not a concern. Materials --------- @@ -184,6 +185,12 @@ bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces. Cutting ^^^^^^^ +.. tip:: + + While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular + pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip + them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread. + Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg @@ -205,12 +212,61 @@ complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough for it not to be a problem. +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern_directional.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong +side, you probably need to cut gussets from both sides of the sleeves +and + Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each -collar piece and four of each cuff piece. +collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue. + +Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small +reinforcement patches. Front ^^^^^ +Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front. + +On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice +towards the front. + +.. note:: + + This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket, + and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct + right or wrong side. + + If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you + can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in + place instead of applique stitching it. + +Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing +outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half +the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket +(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other). Overlap the +pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams. + +Press everything. + +Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line. + +Applique stitch the plackets over the seam of the first pleat. + +On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from +each edge. + +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom +horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers. + +With right sides facing backstitch all around the tongue except for the +top, press, trim the corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and +press again. + +Press the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side + Back ^^^^ |