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11 files changed, 39 insertions, 10 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..28533ec --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c8d423 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44ad29f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0203-hemming_leg.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44c7d7b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0204-hemming_crotch.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5b1c1c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9826be8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0303-gathering_legs.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12f6a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0305-marking_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d928e44 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d60c756 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ebda77 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst index 56aff5b..04568a0 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -75,22 +75,36 @@ Instructions Cutting ^^^^^^^ + + .. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. Legs ^^^^ +.. figure:: 0201-sewing_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running backstich. +.. figure:: 0202-felling_leg_seam.jpg + :align: center + Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0203-hemming_leg.jpg + :align: center + Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. +.. figure:: 0204-hemming_crotch.jpg + :align: center + Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming stitch. @@ -100,13 +114,19 @@ Assembly Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing allowance towards the inside on both long ends. +.. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg + :align: center + Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the short ends, press and turn inside out. -Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run -separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back -of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and -pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. +.. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg + :align: center + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern (G); +run gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back of +each leg; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and pass +over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. .. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness @@ -116,14 +136,25 @@ pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big needle or a pin. +.. figure:: 0305-marking_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter points. +.. figure:: 0306-pinning_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if -it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the +it's on the front. + +.. figure:: 0307-sewing_legs_to_waistband.jpg + :align: center + +Distribute the gathers and appliquestitch / hemstitch the leg to the waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the back. @@ -134,6 +165,9 @@ back. Finishing ^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0401-button_and_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. Variants @@ -146,8 +180,3 @@ Gallery See also -------- - -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 |
