diff options
| author | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-01-21 18:00:10 +0100 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org> | 2023-03-16 09:17:29 +0100 |
| commit | badab507e945b980993b496336406b7571f51424 (patch) | |
| tree | 422089340dbbdbb6e95155b30fc390f80ba62a39 /source | |
| parent | 8c9d9849aadd860721ac1fe8aa7b9a39f504373e (diff) | |
New pattern: Combinations corset cover and petticoat
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
36 files changed, 950 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst index dec05d9..feab22a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -23,6 +23,8 @@ these blocks and the patterns derived from them. Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book itself. +.. _cutters_jackets: + Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index dd4ddf8..3cd3947 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,5 +11,6 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + underwear/index accessories/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8709ed4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0202-facings_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0202-facings_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e987aef --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0202-facings_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0203-cut_triangle.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0203-cut_triangle.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe3f67c --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0203-cut_triangle.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..afe80a3 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7cb72a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0206-triangle_folded.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0206-triangle_folded.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a225af4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0206-triangle_folded.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf36d12 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0208-triangle_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0208-triangle_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8199fcd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0208-triangle_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..337de00 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b7a040 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0211-placket_finished.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0211-placket_finished.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..26470b8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0211-placket_finished.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0212-darts_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0212-darts_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee2bc3f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0212-darts_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0401-hem_ruffle.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0401-hem_ruffle.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3502f5e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0401-hem_ruffle.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..66c36b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dbeda62 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7adb7de --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eaaf215 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0407-receiving_tuck.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0407-receiving_tuck.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c28b99d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0407-receiving_tuck.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..523be51 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ae3a81 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0501-finishing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0501-finishing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a647346 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0501-finishing.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca3e610 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b02-facing_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b02-facing_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbb1490 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b02-facing_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b03-facing_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b03-facing_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c095fa --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b03-facing_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..82b6271 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b05-allowance_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b05-allowance_pressed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fc7bdf --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b05-allowance_pressed.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0e2bcdc --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..992bbf7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5cf21d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65a7373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a86cea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val @@ -0,0 +1,529 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Corset cover + petticoat</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment, excluding the ruffle" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 50" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="1.5" name="#ease"/> + <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#stand_width"/> + <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips / 2" name="#front_opening"/> + <increment formula="200" name="#hem_circumference"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#ruffle_height"/> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#ruffle_density"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_height"/> + <increment formula="1.5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_density"/> + <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front" formula="12" name="#neckline_depth_front"/> + <increment description="full width of the neckline" formula="24" name="#neckline_width"/> + <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back" formula="4" name="#neckline_depth_back"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90035" my="-0.774514" name="A22h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#shoulder_line" lineColor="black" mx="-5.98282" my="-0.774514" name="A2eeeee" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="-2.3385" my="-0.774514" name="A8" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90035" my="-0.384051" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="#full_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.995899" my="0.84266" name="A25" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="7" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="7" id="8" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A0qqq" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="9" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="10" length="across_back_b / 2 + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="10" id="11" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="0.394737" my="-1.81575" name="A6h1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="11" id="12" length="Line_A2eeeee_A6h - across_back_b / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.71545" my="-1.51967" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="13" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A0h" p1Line="3" p2Line="9" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="13" id="14" length="bust_circ / 2 + #ease" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="14" id="15" length="(across_chest_f + armfold_to_armfold_bust) / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12h" secondPoint="13" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <line firstPoint="8" id="16" lineColor="black" secondPoint="10" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h - 90" color="black" id="17" length1="3" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="8" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h - 5" angle2="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h + 180 + 5" color="black" id="18" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="8" point4="10" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h + 270" angle2="90" color="black" id="19" length1="2" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="12" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="60" angle2="80" center="15" color="cornflowerblue" id="20" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_armfold_front - Spl_A_A0qqq" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="110" angle2="130" center="14" color="cornflowerblue" id="21" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_armfold_front - Spl_A_A0qqq + 2" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="20" id="22" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Af" secondArc="21" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="22" id="23" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Av" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.186729" my="0.396875" name="Ai" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" p1Line="23" p2Line="14" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h + 90" basePoint="13" id="27" lineColor="black" mx="0.54769" my="-0.523222" name="Aw" p1Line="8" p2Line="10" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="110" center="15" color="cornflowerblue" id="28" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - Line_A0h_Aw" type="simple"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="22" color="cornflowerblue" id="29" penStyle="hair" radius="Spl_A0qqq_A6h - 1" type="simple"/> + <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="28" id="30" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Ad" secondArc="29" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> + <line firstPoint="22" id="31" lineColor="black" secondPoint="30" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Af_Ad + 10" angle2="AngleLine_Af_Ad + 180 + 10" color="black" id="32" length1="3" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="22" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="15" id="33" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-0.692266" my="1.04616" name="A11h" secondPoint="13" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="13" id="34" length="r2cm(CurrentLength/10/3)*10" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4q" secondPoint="33" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="34" id="35" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8b" secondPoint="33" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="13" id="36" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.20097" my="-2.13461" name="An" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="36" id="37" length="armpit_to_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Ae" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point center="22" firstPoint="23" id="39" mx="1.56765" my="-1.46465" name="At" radius="neck_back_to_waist_front - Spl_A_A0qqq" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="pointOfContact"/> + <point firstPoint="9" id="40" length="Line_A0h_A4q / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="37" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="220" angle2="70" color="black" id="41" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="AngleLine_A1_A3 + 90" color="black" id="42" length1="3" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="34" point4="40" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="6" id="45" lineColor="black" mx="0.389547" my="0.396875" name="A25f" p1Line="23" p2Line="14" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="48" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="-1.80093" my="-2.04419" name="A4" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="250" color="black" id="49" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="48" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="48" id="50" length="Spl_A4q_A3 - Spl_A4_A4q" lineColor="black" mx="-0.28082" my="0.944223" name="A4d" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="48" id="53" length="Line_A4q_A8b - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-1.85331" name="A7q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="53" id="54" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="0.652546" my="-1.85331" name="A8q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="54" id="55" length="Line_A8b_A11h - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-2.08609" name="A11q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="55" id="56" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="0.652546" my="-1.93091" name="A12q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="180" color="black" id="57" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="36" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="35" curve="57" id="58" lineColor="black" mx="1.47341" my="-1.87333" name="A8ba" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_Af_Ad + 90" color="black" id="61" length1="8" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="36" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="33" curve="61" id="62" lineColor="black" mx="-1.63854" my="-3.07173" name="A11ha" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="39" id="71" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="-1.36486" my="1.63836" name="A20hw" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <line firstPoint="50" id="72" lineColor="black" secondPoint="53" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="56" id="73" lineColor="black" secondPoint="39" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="71" id="74" length="(Line_A1_A3 + Line_A4d_A7q + Line_A8q_A11q + Line_A12q_At - waist_circ / 2 - #ease) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="74" id="75" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17h" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="75" id="76" length="Line_A20hw_A19" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="300" center="22" color="cornflowerblue" id="77" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_A0qqq + 1" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="71" id="78" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.97983" my="-1.65516" name="A5" secondPoint="74" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="75" id="79" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.78745" my="-1.71929" name="A6" secondPoint="76" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A22_A20h" basePoint="78" curve="77" id="80" lineColor="black" mx="0.136331" my="-2.4888" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A22_A20h" basePoint="79" curve="77" id="83" lineColor="black" mx="-2.30046" my="-1.97579" name="A9" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="83" id="86" lineColor="black" secondPoint="75" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="80" id="87" lineColor="black" secondPoint="71" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="83" id="88" length="Line_A9_A17h" lineColor="black" mx="-3.00585" my="-0.0520083" name="A10" secondPoint="76" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="80" id="89" length="Line_A7_A20hw" lineColor="black" mx="-1.59508" my="1.29464" name="A11" secondPoint="74" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="78" id="90" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="80" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="79" id="91" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="83" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="55" id="98" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.860091" my="-2.35233" name="A20" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="53" id="102" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" secondPoint="54" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="118" length1="5" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_Av_A25f + 90" basePoint="24" id="123" length="#stand_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A32" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_Av_A25f + 90" basePoint="45" id="125" length="#stand_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A34" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="AngleLine_Ai_A20h - 90" color="black" id="169" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="22" point4="24" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point basePoint="12" id="216" lineColor="black" mx="-2.2126" my="0.821535" name="A36" p1Line="4" p2Line="33" showLabel="true" type="height" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="216" id="217" lineColor="black" secondPoint="15" typeLine="hair"/> + <point id="219" length="2" mx="1.53856" my="-1.16021" name="AB" showLabel="true" spline="61" type="cutSpline"/> + <point basePoint="12" id="220" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AE" p1Line="30" p2Line="219" showLabel="true" type="height" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A2_AE" basePoint="219" id="248" lineColor="black" mx="-1.64639" my="0.821535" name="A43" p1Line="4" p2Line="33" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="277" length="(Line_A12q_At) * 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.372236" my="0.396875" name="A37" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="55" id="279" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A31" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="279" id="280" length="(#hem_circumference - Line_A25f_A37) / 6" lineColor="black" mx="-2.2022" my="1.12048" name="A38" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="53" id="283" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A23" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="283" id="284" length="Line_A31_A38" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A30" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="287" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A28" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="287" id="288" length="Line_A31_A38" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A29" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="6" id="291" length="#ruffle_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A39" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="291" id="292" length="#hem_circumference * #ruffle_density" lineColor="black" mx="0.333739" my="0.466031" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="292" id="293" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A41" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point basePoint="277" id="312" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A26" p1Line="45" p2Line="24" showLabel="true" type="height" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="24" id="316" length="#front_opening" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="45" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="291" id="318" length="#sleeve_ruffle_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="318" id="319" length="(Spl_A6h_A2 + Spl_A2_An + Spl_An_A11ha) * #sleeve_ruffle_density" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="319" id="320" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="291" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="318" id="326" length="#stand_width * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="326" id="327" length="#front_opening - #neckline_depth_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="327" id="328" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A33" secondPoint="318" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="316" id="339" length="#stand_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.9525" my="-0.9525" name="A35" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="316" id="340" length="#stand_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.14854" my="-1.16417" name="A42" secondPoint="339" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="24" id="344" length="#neckline_depth_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A44" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="344" id="345" length="#neckline_width / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A45" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_A44_A45 + 90" basePoint="345" curve="32" id="346" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A46" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A44_A45 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_A44_A45" color="black" id="349" length1="20" length2="14" penStyle="hair" point1="346" point4="344" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A44_A45 + 90" angle2="AngleLine_A44_A45" color="black" duplicate="1" id="350" length1="6" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="346" point4="344" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <line firstPoint="55" id="356" lineColor="black" secondPoint="279" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="53" id="357" lineColor="black" secondPoint="283" typeLine="hair"/> + <line firstPoint="40" id="358" lineColor="black" secondPoint="287" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="56" id="359" length="Line_A11q_A31" lineColor="black" mx="1.34927" my="-3.53511" name="A47" secondPoint="277" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="54" id="360" length="Line_A7q_A23" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A48" secondPoint="280" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="50" id="363" length="Line_A3_A28" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A49" secondPoint="284" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="9" id="365" length="Line_A3_A28" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A50" secondPoint="288" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="367" length="#neckline_depth_back" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A51" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="368" length="Spl_Af_A46" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A52" showLabel="true" spline="18" type="cutSpline"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A0qqq_A6h - 90" color="black" id="369" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="367" point4="368" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="127" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="128" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="129" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="130" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="131" idObject="19" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="132" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.470344" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="133" idObject="41" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="134" idObject="34" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="135" idObject="42" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="136" idObject="40" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="142" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="144" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="-1.41838" my="-2.89558" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="145" idObject="57" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="146" idObject="58" inUse="false" mx="1.37269" my="-1.13972" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="147" idObject="53" inUse="false" mx="-2.76153" my="-1.85331" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="153" idObject="50" inUse="false" mx="-1.70705" my="1.14797" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="154" idObject="49" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="155" idObject="34" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="156" idObject="41" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="158" idObject="58" inUse="false" mx="-0.899307" my="-3.32757" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="159" idObject="57" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="160" idObject="36" inUse="false" mx="-0.573102" my="-2.48849" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="161" idObject="55" inUse="false" mx="-2.76153" my="-2.08609" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="167" idObject="54" inUse="false" mx="0.652546" my="-1.85331" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="170" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="171" idObject="32" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="172" idObject="22" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="173" idObject="169" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="174" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="0.186729" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="181" idObject="56" inUse="false" mx="0.652546" my="-1.93091" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="182" idObject="36" inUse="false" mx="-0.573102" my="-2.48849" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="183" idObject="61" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="191" idObject="80" inUse="false" mx="0.136331" my="-2.4888" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="192" idObject="71" inUse="false" mx="-1.36486" my="1.63836" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="193" idObject="90" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="194" idObject="74" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="195" idObject="80" inUse="false" mx="0.136331" my="-2.4888" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="196" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="191" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="192" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="193" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="194" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="195" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="197" idObject="83" inUse="false" mx="-2.30046" my="-1.97579" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="198" idObject="75" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="199" idObject="91" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="200" idObject="76" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="201" idObject="83" inUse="false" mx="-2.30046" my="-1.97579" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="202" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="197" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="198" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="199" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="200" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="201" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="203" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="204" idObject="40" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="205" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="203" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="204" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="206" idObject="50" inUse="false" mx="-1.70705" my="1.14797" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="207" idObject="53" inUse="false" mx="-2.76153" my="-1.85331" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="208" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="206" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="207" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="209" idObject="54" inUse="false" mx="0.652546" my="-1.85331" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="210" idObject="55" inUse="false" mx="-2.76153" my="-2.08609" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="211" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="209" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="210" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="212" idObject="56" inUse="false" mx="0.652546" my="-1.93091" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="213" idObject="39" inUse="false" mx="1.56765" my="-1.46465" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="214" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="212" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="213" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="275" idObject="219" inUse="false" mx="1.53856" my="-1.16021" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="276" idObject="61" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="278" idObject="277" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="281" idObject="279" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="282" idObject="280" inUse="false" mx="-0.0583748" my="2.22697" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="285" idObject="283" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="286" idObject="284" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="289" idObject="287" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="290" idObject="288" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="294" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="-5.20327" my="-0.774514" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="295" idObject="293" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="296" idObject="292" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="297" idObject="291" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="299" idObject="24" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="309" idObject="53" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="310" idObject="55" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="311" idObject="40" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="313" idObject="312" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="314" idObject="312" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="317" idObject="316" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="321" idObject="291" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="322" idObject="320" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="323" idObject="319" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="324" idObject="318" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="329" idObject="318" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="330" idObject="328" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="331" idObject="327" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="332" idObject="326" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="334" idObject="318" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="335" idObject="328" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="336" idObject="327" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="337" idObject="326" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="341" idObject="339" inUse="false" mx="0.9525" my="-0.9525" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="342" idObject="340" inUse="false" mx="-3.14854" my="-1.16417" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="343" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="placket_cut" type="2" typeLine="hair" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="341" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="342" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <spline id="352" idObject="349" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="353" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="square_neckline" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="352" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <spline id="354" idObject="350" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="355" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="v_neckline" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="354" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="361" idObject="359" inUse="false" mx="1.34927" my="-3.53511" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="362" idObject="360" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="364" idObject="363" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="366" idObject="365" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="370" idObject="367" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="371" idObject="369" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="372" idObject="368" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="373" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="neckline" type="2" typeLine="dashLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="370" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="371" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="372" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="374" idObject="318" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="375" idObject="318" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="376" idObject="328" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="377" idObject="328" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="378" idObject="280" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="379" idObject="291" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="380" idObject="291" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="381" idObject="318" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + <point id="382" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="143" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{5199b94b-388e-482c-9910-4b3d08a6e3e3}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="94.5373" my="344.783" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="94.5373" my="155.708" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" centerPin="311" length="70" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance " idObject="127" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="128" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="129" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="130" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="131" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="132" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="133" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="134" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="135" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="136" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="289" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="290" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="366" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="142" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="205"/> + <record path="373"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>311</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="157" mx="10.2089" my="0.777535" name="side_back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{354855e0-4a52-456a-ba8f-56b6da6afa2e}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="8" letter="B" mx="349.332" my="1098.48" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="8"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="8" mx="381.899" my="780.948" rotation="0" visible="true" width="8"/> + <grainline arrows="0" centerPin="309" length="50" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="144" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="145" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="146" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="147" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="285" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="364" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="153" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="154" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="155" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="156" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="208"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>309</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="168" mx="19.1724" my="0.861683" name="side" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{2fa85913-6827-4b5b-b5b3-1fca7ca5fdc0}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="7" letter="C" mx="684.376" my="1126.03" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="7"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="7" mx="678.795" my="838.044" rotation="0" visible="true" width="7"/> + <grainline arrows="0" centerPin="310" length="35" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="158" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="159" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="160" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="161" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="281" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="282" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="362" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="167" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="211"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>310</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="184" mx="25.6438" my="0.219555" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{7e7d609b-de57-4fa9-aec8-3127d883a379}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="D" mx="1158.14" my="936.317" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1149.08" my="757.588" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="314" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="299" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="170" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="171" reverse="1" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="172" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="173" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node after="0" idObject="174" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="0" before="0" idObject="317" manualPassmarkLength="true" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLength="1" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" before="0" idObject="313" type="NodePoint"/> + <node excluded="true" idObject="278" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 2" idObject="361" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="181" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="182" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="183" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="275" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="276" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="196"/> + <record path="202"/> + <record path="214"/> + <record path="343"/> + <record path="353"/> + <record path="355"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>299</record> + <record>314</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="298" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="ruffle" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b35d67dd-407c-4caa-a766-4babea1d8812}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="E" mx="566.715" my="3783.99" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="113.065" my="3756.08" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="379" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="382" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="294" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance / 2" idObject="295" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="296" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="297" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>379</record> + <record>382</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="325" inLayout="false" mx="0" my="0" name="sleeve_ruffle" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{83c3b03e-6ca1-439f-b7f6-03915d38aafa}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="4" letter="F" mx="462.679" my="4372.75" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="4" mx="60.307" my="4367.17" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="381" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="380" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="321" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="322" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="323" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="324" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>380</record> + <record>381</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="333" mx="0.341919" my="9.57374" name="right_front_facing" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{68545e16-30e0-4074-a0e7-94b4ab2ada3b}" version="2" width="#stand_width / 2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="G" mx="455.337" my="4563" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="68.435" my="4563" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="376" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="374" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="#seam_allowance" idObject="329" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="CurrentSeamAllowance * 3" idObject="330" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance * 3" idObject="331" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="#seam_allowance" idObject="332" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>374</record> + <record>376</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="338" mx="0" my="2.9633" name="left_front_facing" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{47093a49-5c76-4246-812c-de8729e8e824}" version="2" width="#stand_width / 2"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="3" letter="H" mx="439.867" my="4563" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="3" mx="55.9994" my="4557.42" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="377" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="375" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="#seam_allowance" idObject="334" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="335" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="336" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="#seam_allowance" idObject="337" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>375</record> + <record>377</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7cbb59 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f11158 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,408 @@ +Combinations Corset Cover and Petticoat +======================================= + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This combinations corset cover and petticoat, or princess petticoat, is +suitable under the A-line skirts of the late Victorian and early +Edwardian eras. + +For historybounding it's of course also suitable as a sundress, and +would probably look nice in a 1970s does edwardian style. + +Since this is either underwear or modern clothing, I've given +instructions for flat felled seams that are topstitched by machine; of +course hemstitching the allowances by hand is always an option. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* optional but recommended lace; +* 8 small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index` +and you need to take the measurements listed in :ref:`cutters_jackets`. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``full_length`` + Length of the garment from the neck back, excluding the ruffle; +``shoulder_line`` + distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder; + the default is one sixth of the distance between the back of the neck + and the waist; +``waist_to_hips`` + standard taken from the book: if your distance is very different you + may want to use your measurement; +``ease`` + ease added to half of the bust circumference; +``waist_suppression`` + waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 + or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + how long the darts should continue down from the waist: about 20 to + 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is; +``stand_width`` + e.g. 2 cm; +``front_opening`` + calculated to reach halfway between the waist and the hips; +``hem_circumference`` + e.g. 2 m; +``ruffle_height`` + e.g. 20 cm; +``ruffle_density`` + e.g. 2.5, or 3 for a densely pleated ruffle; +``sleeve_ruffle_height`` + e.g. 5 cm; +``sleeve_ruffle_density`` + e.g. 1.5; +``neckline_depth_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front; +``neckline_width`` + full width of the neckline at the widest point; +``neckline_depth_back`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back; +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front panel on the fold, the rest of the panels twice; also cut +one each of the front facings, two sleeve ruffles and enough +selvege-to-selvege strips for the bottom ruffle. + +.. tip:: + + The length of the bottom ruffle in the pattern is just a suggestion; + using the closest multiple of the fabric width will reduce fabric + waste and allow you to use the selveges and avoid having to finish + the raw edges. + +Press carefully the crease in the front piece, to mark the line for the +opening, mark the triangle for the end of the opening, and also mark the +darts. + +Front Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-center_front_cut.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the center front until the *top* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0202-facings_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +With the right side of the facing on the wrong side of the front, pin +the longer facing to the *right* of the cut and the shorter one to the +*left*; sew with an allowance of half the placket width until the +*bottom* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0203-cut_triangle.jpg + :align: center + +Cut from the end of the center cut to the end of the seams, along the +triangle marking, taking care to just reach the seam, but not snip into +them. + +.. figure:: 0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg + :align: center + +Press the shorter facing towards the opening, press down its other edge +towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +.. figure:: 0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Press the facing in half and move it to the right side of the fabric so +that it just covers the seam. + +.. figure:: 0206-triangle_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the small triangle from the front fabric towards the right +side. + +.. figure:: 0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-triangle_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping just beyond the bottom of the +triangle, topstitch the lower edge catching the top of the triangle. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the longer facing: press it towards the opening, press down +its other edge towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +Press it in half and move it to the right side of the fabric, on top of +the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping at the same level where +you've stopped on the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0211-placket_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the bottom edge of the longer facing on top of the shorter +one, trim any excess or bulk and topstitch a square to keep it in place +and finish all raw edges. + +.. tip:: this is a pretty basic finish for the end of the button + placket, of course you can look for historical examples and go wide + with shaped edges. + +.. figure:: 0212-darts_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts and press them towards the sides. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, sew all vertical seams. Note that the curved seam +between the side back and back is quite fiddly and will require at te +very minimum the seam line to be marked and carefully pinned, or +possibly even basting. + +Also sew the shoulder seams. + +Try the combinations on to check the fitting before finishing the seams, +do any alternation that is required. + +Press the seams open and then to one side, either towards the center +front or the center back, trim the lower allowance, fold the top one to +cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +Ruffles +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hem_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Sew all hem ruffle strips together in a tube; if you can use the +selvedges simply press the seams open to minimize bulk, otherwise flat +fell the seams. + +Hem one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Sew also the sleeve ruffles in a tube, flat felling the seam, and hem +one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg + :align: center + +Gather or pleat the sleeve ruffles to the armscyes, sew with a double +allowance. + +.. note:: Take care to distribute the lenght of the ruffle uniformly + around the armscye, rather than just around the top of the sleeve as + it is usual, as the excess fabric around the armpit is useful to + protect the dress from sweat. This is of course less an issue if + making this as outerwear. + +.. figure:: 0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the body, trim the allowance of the body, +fold the ruffle on top to cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg + :align: center + +Press the hem of the petticoat towards the wrong side by 3 cm, sew at 1 +cm from the hem. + +.. figure:: 0407-receiving_tuck.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance down to make a receiving tuck, and then press the +raw edge inside the tuck. + +.. figure:: 0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the top of the tuck in the receiving tuck, quartering it to the +hem and pleating or gathering the excess fabric. + +.. figure:: 0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 5 mm from the hem to attach the ruffle and finish the tuck. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the neck with a narrow hem. + +Sew lace liberally and/or to taste. + +Add small buttons and buttonholes to the front. + +.. tip:: If adding lace to the neckline, make the first buttonhole a bit + below the lace, and use a snap to keep the top of the neckline + closed. + +Variants +-------- + +Corset Cover +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The same pattern can of course be used to make a regular corset cover: +either mark a length of 10 cm down from the waist, and cut all pieces at +that length, or cut all pieces at the waistline plus sewing allowance +and add a basque in one piece made by aligning all of the skirt pieces +and rounding the edges. + +The front facings will also have to be changed to be as long as the +front edge, and can be simply included in the front piece. + +Pocket Slits +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Since this kind of garment is likely to be made in lightweight fabric, +and it has no waist seam, adding pockets may not work very well, since +there is no structure to support the weight of the things one may want +to carry. + +Also, when using it as underwear pockets aren't really needed (since the +main garment already has them) and they may add unwanted bulk. + +Of course my solution to this isn't “no pockets” (perish the thought!), +but simple slits with modesty facings through which one can access a +:doc:`/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index`. + +I've placed these slits on the seam between the side and side back +panels rather than on the seams of the front piece for two reasons: one +is that this way the front of the skirt remains smoother, and the bulk +of the pockets can be where there is more fullness in the back; the +other one is that the seams of the front piece are the first ones that +are changed in case one needs to do small alterations to the fitting, +and leaving them clear makes it easier. + +For the facings, cut two rectangles of fabric, about 20 cm × 14 cm each. + +.. figure:: b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Fold them in half on the long side, right sides facing, and sew the +short sides with an allowance of 1 cm. +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: b02-facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the rectangles on the right side of the side back pieces, on the +straight grain edge, between the waist and the hips, and at half an +allowance from the edge of the fabric, sew with the regular seam +allowance. + +.. figure:: b03-facing_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the outside. + +.. figure:: b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on top of the side back pieces, right sides together, and +sew the seam stopping in such a way that just 1 cm at the top and bottom +of the facings is covered. + +.. figure:: b05-allowance_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press all allowances towards the side. + +.. figure:: b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowance of the side just outside the facings, fold it twice +and topstitch it down while keeping the facing out of the way. + +.. figure:: b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the allowance of the side backs over the allowance of the facing, +covering all raw edges, and topstitch it to the facing. + +.. figure:: b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the rest of the allowance of the side to half its width, cover +with the allowance of the side back and topstitch it as usual for a +flat-felled seam. + +Insertion Lace +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern is of course great for a liberal application of insertion +lace, which can happen in two ways. + +One is to prepare entire parts of the panels by sewing together lace, +and then cutting a smaller panel in fabric: this works great e.g. for +the yoke. + +Another one is to insert strips of lace by sewing them to the fabric and +then cutting away the fabric behind the lace; for lace that only covers +one of the panels this should be done before the combinations are sewn, +while for laces that go all around the circumference it's easier to +finish the garment first and then add the lace. + +A variant of the latter is to cut all around the finished garment and +then insert the lace: this wastes less fabric, but of course adds +length, so it's only recommended in the skirt part where it's easier to +compensate for it. It will also change the line of the skirt, but the +effect should only be noticeable with taller laces. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5762350 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +*********** + Underwear +*********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index + |
