1892 skirt: new pattern.

32 files changed, 812 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
index 7649ed0..86dae5a 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
@@ -9,3 +9,5 @@ considered womenswear.
 .. toctree::
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
+
+   skirts/index
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/01-binding_edges.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/01-binding_edges.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9df6e95
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/01-binding_edges.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/02-sewn_darts.png b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/02-sewn_darts.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bbb1161
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/02-sewn_darts.png
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/03-flatlined_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/03-flatlined_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5138470
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/03-flatlined_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/04-pinked_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/04-pinked_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..99df7ad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/04-pinked_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/05-sewn_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/05-sewn_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9ca34d4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/05-sewn_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/06-folded_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/06-folded_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b3c5d02
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/06-folded_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/07-sewn_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/07-sewn_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7597141
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/07-sewn_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/08-folded_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/08-folded_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5b7d77b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/08-folded_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/09-basted_placket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/09-basted_placket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e929520
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/09-basted_placket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/10-sewn_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/10-sewn_side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e9c2a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/10-sewn_side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ae1ef6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/12-pocket_edges.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/12-pocket_edges.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5db1efa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/12-pocket_edges.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/13-side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/13-side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a64343e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/13-side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/14-check_pocket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/14-check_pocket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5cd74cb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/14-check_pocket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/15-sewn_pocket.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/15-sewn_pocket.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7363b1e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/15-sewn_pocket.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/16-pleated_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/16-pleated_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a74e730
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/16-pleated_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2612ec8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/18-waistband_sides.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/18-waistband_sides.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3efcb76
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/18-waistband_sides.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19-folded_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19-folded_waistband.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7aefe7c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19-folded_waistband.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b09b016
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/20-hem_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/20-hem_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..81652e5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/20-hem_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/21-attached_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/21-attached_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed6e70c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/21-attached_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/22-pressed_facing.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/22-pressed_facing.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..958af2c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/22-pressed_facing.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c1e2e3f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val
@@ -0,0 +1,342 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength="">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf)
+
+https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc
+
+The length has been adapted to use the measurements for front/side/back length, so that the same pattern can be used even if they differ significantly (e.g. for bustle era skirts).</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Foundation Skirt, straight hem</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="3" name="#waistband_height"/>
+        <increment formula="3" name="#placket_width"/>
+        <increment formula="28" name="#placket_length"/>
+        <increment formula="6" name="#pocket_distance_from_waist"/>
+        <increment formula="18" name="#pocket_opening"/>
+        <increment formula="40" name="#pocket_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="10" name="#height_hem_ground"/>
+        <increment formula="15" name="#facing_height"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="pattern">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="height_waist_back - #height_hem_ground" lineColor="black" mx="0.374078" my="0.28738" name="A40" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="3" length="hip_circ / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="5" mx="-3.64244" my="-0.0496415" name="A20a" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="6" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-0.405192" my="-1.61245" name="A1" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="6" id="7" length="height_waist_side - height_waist_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Ah" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A40f" p1Line="7" p2Line="4" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point center="7" firstPoint="1" id="9" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4" radius="waist_circ / 8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfContact"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="10" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="11" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20sb" p1Line="10" p2Line="5" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="9" id="12" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5h" secondPoint="10" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="13" length="(waist_circ / 2 - 4 - Line_Ah_A4) / 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16h" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="14" length="(CurrentLength - Line_A19_A16h * 2) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13h" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="14" id="15" length="Line_A19_A16h" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="16" length="Line_A16h_A13h" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="12" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="13" id="17" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.63311" my="-2.05897" name="A15w" secondPoint="14" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="15" id="18" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.52148" my="-1.94734" name="A9hw" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="12" id="19" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.19126" my="-2.05897" name="A4qqqw" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="19" id="20" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A4qqq" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="18" id="21" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9h" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="17" id="22" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="21" id="23" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9hh" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="11" id="24" length="33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="25" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B13" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="24" id="26" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="27" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="B0r" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="160" color="black" id="28" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="27" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="30" length="#placket_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="31" length="#pocket_distance_from_waist" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="31" id="32" length="#pocket_opening" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="11" id="82" lineColor="black" secondPoint="8" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="10" id="107" length="height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="108" length="height_waist_back - height_waist_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="-10" angle2="180" color="black" id="109" length1="3" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="108" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="9" id="129" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="129" id="130" length="Line_A_A7 / 2 + 3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="129" id="131" length="Line_A_A1 / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.18299" my="-1.91472" name="A22" secondPoint="9" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="129" id="132" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="-1.09518" my="-1.71076" name="A23" secondPoint="131" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="18" id="137" length="height_waist_back - height_waist_side" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180" color="black" id="138" length1="10" length2="15" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="108" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="141" length="#pocket_distance_from_waist" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3b" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="141" id="142" length="#pocket_opening" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5b" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="143" length="#placket_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2b" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="147" length="#placket_width * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C0" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="148" length="#placket_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.356992" my="0.396875" name="C1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="147" id="149" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="C2" secondPoint="148" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="155" length="waist_circ + #placket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="156" length="#waistband_height * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="155" id="157" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="D3" secondPoint="156" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="163" length="#pocket_opening" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="164" length="#pocket_depth * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="163" id="165" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="E3" secondPoint="164" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="171" length="#facing_height" lineColor="black" mx="-2.44133" my="-2.17374" name="A6" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="171" id="172" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" p1Line="10" p2Line="11" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="173" mx="-3.11781" my="0.532171" name="A10" secondPoint="171" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="24" id="174" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="171" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="36" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="48" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="49" idObject="2" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="50" idObject="23" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="51" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="52" idObject="32" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="53" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f6b158b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_shirt_front.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c97b573
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_back.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6d63777
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,420 @@
+1892 Foundation Skirt
+=====================
+
+.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+A foundation skirt based on the instructions on `The Cutters’ Practical
+Guide to the Cutting of Ladies’ Garments
+<https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc/>`_ from 1892,
+adapted to let the hem lie on the cross-grain for ease of cutting,
+especially when using patterned fabric.
+
+While this manual is from the 1890s, the cut of this skirt resembles
+more the skirts of the natural form and second bustle eras rather than
+the A-line skirts typical of the full 1890s and works well worn with
+anything from a small bustle pad to a full bustle cage.
+
+In an historical context, this skirt would be a base with a layer of
+drapery on top, often mounted in the same waistband to reduce bulk.
+For historybounding and for variety it can also be made separate from
+the drapery, to be able to change the look of the outfit (or to skip the
+drapery for a simpler modern option).
+
+Most of the skirt is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an
+historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with few
+handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full skirt is also an
+option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a
+backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 3 m of skirt fabric (at least 140 cm wide): mid-weight cotton,
+  linen or wool;
+* optional, about 2 m of lining fabric : light weight cotton or linen;
+* 50 cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing;
+* 20 cm pocket fabric.
+
+When choosing the fabric, consider whether the skirt will have a
+permanently attached drapery: if so you can use a cheap, plain fabric
+for the underskirt, and add an external facing in the fancy fabric to
+cover just the bottom edge which will show.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* 5 m bias binding to finish the raw edges (any colour, as it won't
+  show);
+* about 2 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge.
+* skirt hook;
+* snaps.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``height_waist_front`` (A13)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center front;
+``height_waist_side`` (A05)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured on the side, going over
+   the hips;
+``height_waist_back`` (A23)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
+   going over the buttocks;
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+   circumference of the waist;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   circumference of the hips.
+
+the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
+and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`foundation_skirt_straight_hem.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
+
+``waistband_height``
+   e.g. 3 cm;
+``placket_width``
+   e.g. 3 cm;
+``placket_length``
+   length of the placket opening, e.g. 28 cm;
+``pocket_distance_from_waist``
+   how low from the waist the pocket should start, e.g. 6 cm;
+``pocket_opening``
+   how wide the pocket is, e.g. 18 cm;
+``pocket_depth``
+   how deep the pocket is, e.g. 40 cm (my pocketing material is 80 cm
+   wide, and I use a full width, with selvedges on both sides);
+``height_hem_ground``
+   the desired distance from ground to the hem; 10 cm is good for a
+   walking length skirt.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Straighten the grain of the fabric and cut any big rectangular piece
+such as the belt band and strips for a ruffle.
+
+Cut the main panels of the skirt, first the front and then the back one,
+on the fold of the fabric.
+
+Cut the facing for the placket opening from the narrow leftovers at the
+bottom of the front panel, using the selvedge to get one finished edge
+on each.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   If you are also making a matching waist or jacket, it is often
+   practical to cut the skirt panels first, and then distribute as many
+   waist / jacket pieces as possible on the leftovers.
+
+If desired, cut the front and back panel from the lining.
+
+Cut the pocket from a sturdy material.
+
+Cut the facing for the hem. If the main fabric is lightweight or very
+draping also cut the placket facing once in the same fabric.
+
+Sewing preparation
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+If lining the skirt, put the lining on top of each panel, wrong sides
+together, and baste all four sides; from now on treat as one piece.
+
+.. figure:: 01-binding_edges.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   Binding the edges with a binding foot is faster, but if you don't
+   have one it can be done with the regular foot by being careful.
+
+Bind all four long edges of the skirt with bias tape to protect the raw
+edges; it's easier to do so now than after the pocket and opening have
+been attached.
+
+.. note::
+
+   Binding the edges with bias tape is part of my own modern obsession
+   with fully enclosed raw edges: historically it was done on high-end
+   garments, but more common alternatives include overcasting the edges
+   by hand, pinking them or even leaving them raw, especially with
+   non-fraying wool, and overlocking is of course a valid modern
+   alternative.
+
+.. figure:: 02-sewn_darts.png
+   :align: center
+
+Fold with right sides facing and sew the first two or three dart pairs
+from the center, leaving at least one to be folded in a pleat. Press
+towards the sides.
+
+Placket opening
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 03-flatlined_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If your fabric needs it, flatline one of the placket facings with the
+sturdy fabric, basting all around.
+
+.. figure:: 04-pinked_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of that placket piece
+on the right and finish the bottom edge with pinking or by overcasting
+the edges (here there will be too much bulk for a bias tape finish).
+
+.. figure:: 05-sewn_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the back piece of the skirt with the right side facing up and place
+this placket piece on its left side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm
+allowance, press towards the placket.
+
+.. figure:: 06-folded_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the placket piece in half so that it just covers the seam and
+stitch in the ditch from the right side to tack it down.
+
+With the wrong side facing up, keep the selvedge of the other placket
+piece on the left and finish the bottom edge as before.
+
+.. figure:: 07-sewn_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the front piece of the skirt with the rigth side facing up and place
+the placket piece on its right side, right sides facing. Sew with 2 cm
+allowance, press open and then press towards the skirt.
+
+.. figure:: 08-folded_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 09-basted_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the placket in half so that the selvedges just reaches the seam,
+press and baste down the top edge where the waistband will be.
+
+.. figure:: 10-sewn_side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the back on the front piecs, right sides together, and sew the side
+seam starting from the hem and reaching 1.5 cm into the placket, taking
+care to check that this last part perfectly aligns with both seams in
+the placket. Check on the right side that the placket aligns smoothly
+and that the opening is hidden in the seam and press flat.
+
+.. figure:: 11-sewn_placket_bottom.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+From the wrong side, extend the two plackets from the skirt, align their
+bottom and sew it at 1.4 cm from the edge, stopping just where the side
+seam starts.
+
+Pocket
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 12-pocket_edges.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew one short edge of the pocket to the front panel
+between the V notches. Again right sides together, sew the other short
+edge of the pocket to the back panel, taking care not to twist the
+pocket material. Press the allowances towards the skirt.
+
+If you didn't use the selvedges finish the raw edges of the pocket.
+
+.. figure:: 13-side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the front and the back of the skirt, right sides facing and with the
+pocket extended; starting from the top sew the side seam down to 1.5 cm
+into the pocket, backstitch 2-3 stitches for strength.
+Start again from the end and sew the rest of the side seam until 1.5 cm
+into the pocket, backstitch again 2-3 stitches for strenght.
+
+.. figure:: 14-check_pocket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+On the right side, check that the pocket is correctly hidden in the seam
+and then press the side seam open.
+
+.. note::
+
+   Since this pocket doesn't have a facing in the skirt material it
+   won't be completely hidden from sight, but the amount of material in
+   that part of the skirt means that gaping should be a rare occurrence,
+   and anyway it will be further hidden by a pleat.
+
+
+.. figure:: 15-sewn_pocket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the sides of the pocket with 1 cm sewing allowance, catching just
+the sewing allowances of the pocket, but not those of the skirt.
+Finish the raw edges with bias tape, or by overcasting them by hand.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This style of pocket isn't tacked down to one side like regular
+   pockets, because I've found that at times it is useful to be able to
+   move it either towards the back, so that it is hidden in the fullness
+   or towards the side, so that it is easier to reach into while sitting
+   (and safely out of the way of your own *seat*).
+
+Pleating and waistband
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+The full width of the back panel should be reduced to just about 8 cm
+starting with an inverted box pleat at the center back and overlapping
+knife pleats in the same direction on each side.
+
+.. figure:: 16-pleated_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Using steel pins (so that you can press on top of them) fold, press and
+pin each pleat near the top and a few cm down the skirt working from the
+center to the sides.
+
+Without removing the pins, very carefully baste the pleats 1 cm from the
+top edge (to do this by machine you may want to crank it by hand, so
+that you can easily stop and adjust if the needle is getting too close
+to a pin).
+
+.. note::
+
+   If you want to add fixed draperies, prepare them and baste them to
+   the skirt during the next step, so that they are sandwitched bewtween
+   the right side of the waistband and the right side of the skirt.
+
+.. figure:: 17-attached_waistband_and_pleats.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, place the waistband over the back panel, then find
+the middle point of the remaining waistband and pin it to the center
+front of the skirt; keep pinning towards the sides until you get close
+to the end, and then fold the excess skirt into two pleats that just
+about cover the opening placket and the pocket.
+Sew at 2 cm from the top, carefully removing the pins from the pleats
+just before sewing that part.
+Remove also the bottom line of pins, try the skirt on and if everything
+is ok press the allowance towards the waistband.
+
+.. figure:: 18-waistband_sides.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Righe sides together, fold the waistband in half and sew the ends just
+where the skirt ends. Press, trim the corners and fold inside out.
+
+.. figure:: 19-folded_waistband.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the waistband in half, and then press the raw edge inside so that
+the folded edge just touches the waistband seam. Hemstitch by hand to
+the skirt to enclose all raw edges.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: 19a-elastic_in_the_waistband.jpg
+
+   If you want to wear the skirt both with and without a corset, or if
+   you suffer from a bit of waistline variation, you can sew a bit of
+   elastic to the waistband allowances with an elastic seam (here I've
+   cheated and used 3-step zig-zag) while keeping the elastic under
+   tension.
+
+   This will gather a bit the waistband over the back, but the effect
+   will be mild, and it will give a bit of give to make the skirt adapt
+   more to slightely different waist measurements.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 20-hem_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the sides of the hem facing, press open. Press
+2 cm at the top towards the back.
+
+.. figure:: 21-attached_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+
+.. figure:: 22-pressed_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the facing all around the bottom of the skirt,
+press open and then press the facing inside the skirt, letting a tiny
+bit of the skirt show towards the back.
+
+Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt by hand.
+
+Add a protection to the hem of the skirt: either sew an hem protector
+tape to the inside or bind the edge with wool braid.
+
+Sew a skirt hook and bar to the waistband and a combination of snaps and
+hook and eyes to the placket.
+
+Decoration
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Your skirt is already wearable as-is for modern wear; in the late 19th
+century it was supposed to be a base for draperies and decoration.
+
+For draperies, you need reference material (fashion plates, pictures,
+original dresses, …) from the specific years you are interested about,
+and then you can take a big rectangle of muslin and play with it,
+pinning it to the foundation skirt and/or to tape (hint: safety pins are
+your friend) until it looks good, and then sewing it down.
+
+One bit of decoration that was extremely common was a pleated ruffle at
+the hem of the skirt, meant to work also as a structural help to keep
+the hem spread out and attached either outside (for decoration) or
+inside the skirt (to be there just for the structural functionalities).
+
+To make one, cut enough strips of fabric, 15 cm high, to get a long
+strip that is 3 times the width of the skirt about 10 cm from the hem;
+sew them selvedge to selvedge, right sides together, and hem the top and
+bottom by folding it down twice 8 mm. If you had to cut one end of the
+strip instead of using the selvedge also hem the cut end.
+
+.. figure:: pressing_ruffles.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Starting from one selvedge, fold, pin and press deep box pleats (4 – 5
+cm per side) until the end of the strip, trying to let the seams fall in
+the hidden part of the pleats.
+
+.. figure:: ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+You can sew the ruffle either directly to the skirt, or first to tape
+and then to the skirt, to make it easier to remove if you want to change
+styles.
+In either case, sew it about 2 cm from the top of the ruffle, and let
+the bottom of the ruffle reach to just below the hem of the skirt (if
+sewn outside) or just above (if sewn inside).
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: full_skirt_back.jpg
+   :align: center
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c5bea17
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/measurements.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.50.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.2</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/>
+        <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="100"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/>
+        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="26"/>
+        <m name="height_armpit" value="120"/>
+        <m name="across_back_b" value="30"/>
+        <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="45"/>
+        <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="70"/>
+        <m name="across_chest_f" value="20"/>
+        <m name="armfold_to_armfold_bust" value="22"/>
+        <m name="neck_circ" value="40"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_armfold_front" value="30"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_bust_front" value="40"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
+        <m name="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front" value="41"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_front" value="100"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_side" value="102"/>
+        <m name="height_waist_back" value="105"/>
+        <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="30"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6f7c172
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/pressing_ruffles.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ea90d9b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/ruffles_sewn_on_tape.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6494ef1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+********
+ Skirts
+********
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   1892_foundation_skirt/index
+