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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-01-08 09:54:54 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-01-20 19:05:21 +0100
commit9cf683beb4f5fa4b4053fb3800288908dbdb30c3 (patch)
tree39b5f2949352d227f29519a53ee2b51dc077df93 /source
parent54f51113339878d13851d9931807ad081d002245 (diff)
Start drafting basic womanswear jeans
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val270
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst16
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val271
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst101
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst1
5 files changed, 659 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ea632e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val
@@ -0,0 +1,270 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+ <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.9.1</version>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <description/>
+ <notes/>
+ <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName>
+ <patternNumber/>
+ <company/>
+ <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+ <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+ </patternLabel>
+ <finalMeasurements>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/>
+ </finalMeasurements>
+ <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/>
+ <increments>
+ <increment description="distance from the natural waist to the waist of the trousers" formula="5" name="#waist_position"/>
+ <increment description="circumference of the waist *of the trousers*" formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/>
+ <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/>
+ <increment description="3.25 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/>
+ <increment description="4.5 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/>
+ <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/>
+ <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+ </increments>
+ <previewCalculations/>
+ <draw name="jeans">
+ <calculation>
+ <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
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+ <line firstPoint="11" id="13" lineColor="black" secondPoint="7" typeLine="hair"/>
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+ <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="92" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="91" visible="true"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="86" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="116" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="99"/>
+ <record path="102"/>
+ <record path="126"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ <pins>
+ <record>91</record>
+ <record>92</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ </details>
+ <groups>
+ <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="true">
+ <item tool="51"/>
+ <item tool="53"/>
+ <item tool="55"/>
+ <item tool="73"/>
+ <item tool="74"/>
+ <item tool="75"/>
+ <item tool="76"/>
+ <item tool="103"/>
+ </group>
+ </groups>
+ </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst
index 2cdd67a..f9262dd 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst
@@ -61,6 +61,18 @@ to take these measurements on somebody.
Blocks
------
+.. _aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans:
+
+Close fitting trouser/jeans block
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Page 54, 55.
+
+* :download:`close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val`
+
+
+.. _aldrich_block_basic_tee_shirt:
+
Basic tee shirt
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
@@ -68,6 +80,8 @@ Page 186, 187.
* :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val`
+.. _aldrich_block_easy_fitting_tee_shirt:
+
Easy fitting tee shirt
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
@@ -75,6 +89,8 @@ Page 186, 187.
* :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val`
+.. _aldrich_block_tracksuit_fleece_jacket:
+
Tracksuit / fleece jacket block
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..47c8028
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val
@@ -0,0 +1,271 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+ <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.9.1</version>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <description/>
+ <notes/>
+ <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName>
+ <patternNumber/>
+ <company/>
+ <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+ <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+ </patternLabel>
+ <finalMeasurements>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/>
+ <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/>
+ </finalMeasurements>
+ <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/>
+ <increments>
+ <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="5" name="#waist_position"/>
+ <increment formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/>
+ <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/>
+ <increment description="3.25 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/>
+ <increment description="4.5 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/>
+ <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/>
+ <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+ </increments>
+ <previewCalculations/>
+ <draw name="jeans">
+ <calculation>
+ <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+ <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="rise_length_side - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="height_waist_side_to_hip - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="height_waist_back - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="2" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2 - #waist_position / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.124128" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="hip_circ / 12" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
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+ <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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+ <point firstPoint="6" id="10" length="- (hip_circ / 16 - 0.5)" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point firstPoint="8" id="11" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="cornflowerblue" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="#front_curve_distance" type="simple"/>
+ <line firstPoint="11" id="13" lineColor="black" secondPoint="7" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="10" angle2="AngleLine_A10_A6" color="black" id="14" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="7" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <point firstPoint="11" id="15" length="#waist_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+ <point angle="0" basePoint="5" id="19" length="Line_A3_A12 + 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
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+ <line firstPoint="20" id="24" lineColor="black" secondPoint="21" typeLine="hair"/>
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+ <line firstPoint="53" id="61" lineColor="black" secondPoint="51" typeLine="hair"/>
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+ <node idObject="35" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="37" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="42"/>
+ <record path="47"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ <pins>
+ <record>43</record>
+ <record>44</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="90" mx="41.2065" my="-0.419404" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{d7421c46-845c-4ec6-825a-830838baea80}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="31.703" my="1030.35" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="35.6659" my="645.948" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="92" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="91" visible="true"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="86" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="116" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="99"/>
+ <record path="102"/>
+ <record path="126"/>
+ </iPaths>
+ <pins>
+ <record>91</record>
+ <record>92</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ </details>
+ <groups>
+ <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="true">
+ <item tool="51"/>
+ <item tool="53"/>
+ <item tool="55"/>
+ <item tool="73"/>
+ <item tool="74"/>
+ <item tool="75"/>
+ <item tool="76"/>
+ <item tool="103"/>
+ </group>
+ </groups>
+ </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1aa4e7d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,101 @@
+Basic Jeans
+===========
+
+.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
+:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
+drafted
+
+The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
+be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
+ heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
+ 2nd layer fabric;
+* 50 cm pocket fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
+* a suitable button;
+* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
+* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
+ it won’t show).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``highhip_circ`` (G08)
+ circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
+ sit;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+ circumference of the hips;
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+ vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
+``rise_length_side`` (N08)
+ vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
+``height_waist_back`` (A23)
+ height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
+ going over the buttocks;
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
+
+In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
+increments:
+
+``waistband_depth``
+ height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
+``waist_position``
+ the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
+ the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
+``waist_circ``
+ the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
+ ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
+``jeans_bottom_width``
+ width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
+ straight cut on average sizes;
+``front_curve_distance``
+ 3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
+``back_curve_distance``
+ 4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
+``crutch_ease``
+ 5 or 6 cm;
+``sewing_allowance``
+ enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
+
+After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
+A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+See the instructions for the
+Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst
index ffb0630..eec09f8 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst
@@ -6,5 +6,6 @@
:maxdepth: 2
:caption: Contents:
+ basic_jeans/index
leggings_shorts/index